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Old 01-31-2008, 10:22 AM   #1
rednose OP
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Eh? R1200GS side effects on changing handlebar setup

Hi,
it is almost four times I unscrew/rescrew the torx of the handlebars on the triplecamp of my R1200GS. I noticed that
1) every time I unscrew I find some "aluminium powder" around the torx
2) on screwing them, you may "feel" they are pretty soft
My opinion is they are very soft, and if you put too much strength, you may broken them. For those of you needing to change the setup of the handlbar for on-road / off-road riding like me, how do you proceed? I mean, you buy a new set of torx from BMW and replace them from time to time, you replace them with steel bolt, or simply it is not a problem?? Please suggestions welcome!!
Ciao
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Old 01-31-2008, 10:39 AM   #2
TaterHarry
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Antiseize and a torque wrench. I also put a little antiseize around the bar where it contacts the clamp. It's also very important to go around and torque down the bolts a few clicks in a diagonal fashion.

In the field you may not have the torque wrench or the external torx bit handy, so some people replace the bolts with conventional allen bolts of the correct hardness. Then you can use a small allen wrench to quickly adjust the angle with less chance of overtorquing the bolts.
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:07 AM   #3
Michaelrm69
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I believe that Touratech makes a quick release style pin/screw to replace your torx bits with (at least two of them). I've only seen it on their website and can not vouch for their usefullness...
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:12 AM   #4
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MontyCarlo
Antiseize and a torque wrench. I also put a little antiseize around the bar where it contacts the clamp. It's also very important to go around and torque down the bolts a few clicks in a diagonal fashion.
I'm not so sure antiseize is a good idea. The antiseize will allow more actual torque before tightening down, and may actually cause an issue. IIRC BMW specs dry.

I have had mine off 4-5 times, and know the powder he is referring to. There is a slight corrosion there that manifests itself as a whiteish powder. It wont hurt anything, and the threads should be fine. I clean off the bolt, and blow out the powder, and reinstall them.

Quote:
In the field you may not have the torque wrench or the external torx bit handy, so some people replace the bolts with conventional allen bolts of the correct hardness. Then you can use a small allen wrench to quickly adjust the angle with less chance of overtorquing the bolts
That is what I did, and my shifter bolt, to make it so I didn't have to carry extra sockets.

Jim
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:21 AM   #5
TaterHarry
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Huh. On my '07 Adventure I found dabs of antiseize on the tips of the bolts when I put my risers on. The bike was practically new so there was no corrosion to speak of I think I would be more prone to use the antiseize and be careful with the torque if you're going to be adjusting frequently. JMO.
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:22 AM   #6
fooey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
I'm not so sure antiseize is a good idea. The antiseize will allow more actual torque before tightening down, and may actually cause an issue. IIRC BMW specs dry.

I have had mine off 4-5 times, and know the powder he is referring to. There is a slight corrosion there that manifests itself as a whiteish powder. It wont hurt anything, and the threads should be fine. I clean off the bolt, and blow out the powder, and reinstall them.



That is what I did, and my shifter bolt, to make it so I didn't have to carry extra sockets.

Jim

+1 what JB said and I would NEVER put anything between the handlebar and clamps, lube wise I mean, r12oogs info says 21nm (15ft lb) 1st front, then rear, gap at rear only.
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Old 01-31-2008, 12:13 PM   #7
Attico
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this could be a galvanic reaction. I think these bolts a zinc and the clamp is aluminium....
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Old 01-31-2008, 02:26 PM   #8
Wallowa
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Laugh I Disagree...Use Anti-Seize...Here Is Why..

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
I'm not so sure antiseize is a good idea. The antiseize will allow more actual torque before tightening down, and may actually cause an issue. IIRC BMW specs dry.

I clean off the bolt, and blow out the powder, and reinstall them.
Placing two dissimilar metals in contact will generate galvanic current and ion exchange...the bolts on the clap for the handlebar may not hit the exact specification for torque if anti-seize is used...but that is not as critical as the galling of the metal when removing the bolts...the 'powder' is lost metal...use anti-seize save the metal; the torque on those bolts is not that critical....ARP and other manufacturers of high quality fasteners measure the correct torque by stretch of the bolt at specified torque but they also list 'lubed/wet' and 'dry' torque values...think about Loctite, wet torque..I know BMW doesn't recommend anything...but for example: spark plugs in aluminum head = anti-seize; valves in aluminum SCUBA tanks = breathing quality silicon grease [or you will tear/gall the threads each time you remove plugs or valves]....I have seen the damage to both without a coating to prevent galvanic exchange..

So it is your call...read Carrol Smith's books on race prep and fasteners, great information..

But then this is just my opinion...
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Old 01-31-2008, 02:46 PM   #9
H-Jay
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A Wunderlich Alternative

I installed these quick release gadgets and 35mm risers on my 1200GSA. What a difference when you want to quickly get up on the pegs and not have to hunch over to reach those bars. It also solved the soft torx bolt problem.


Handlebar Quick-Adjust
Part number:8160109-111
Price: 39.95



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H-Jay screwed with this post 01-31-2008 at 07:24 PM
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Old 01-31-2008, 02:52 PM   #10
Archangel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H-Jay
I installed these quick release gadgets and 35mm risers on my 1200GSA. What a difference when you want to quickly get up on the pegs and not have to hunch over to reach those bars. It also solved the soft torq bolt problem.


Handlebar Quick-Adjust
Part number:8160109-111
Price: 39.95


So they do work then? I was curious about how they performed but have been too lazy to search for answer as of yet!!

Thanks for the update H-Jay!
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:14 PM   #11
rednose OP
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doubt

Hi,
I was aware of the wunderlich farkle for the handlebar (always deeply looking at catalogs ), but I'm not sure they are "safe" to mount. I mean, not only the torx, but even the holes on the triple clamp (sorry I'm not english, I don't know the mechanical term for the place where you screw something; let's avoid .... sex terms ) they look to me quite "soft". I'm worried that after some operations, the wunderlich ... screw up everything. Am I wrong?
Ciao!
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Old 02-01-2008, 03:11 AM   #12
fooey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rednose
Hi,
I was aware of the wunderlich farkle for the handlebar (always deeply looking at catalogs ), but I'm not sure they are "safe" to mount. I mean, not only the torx, but even the holes on the triple clamp (sorry I'm not english, I don't know the mechanical term for the place where you screw something; let's avoid .... sex terms ) they look to me quite "soft". I'm worried that after some operations, the wunderlich ... screw up everything. Am I wrong?
Ciao!
Looks like the wunderlich parts are fine, the clamping part is still just a bolt. I think the threads on the triple clamp are weak. Repeated tightening and loosening will take its toll. The question is how many cycles until the threads go away? of course that depends on how tight each time, technique, dry, not dry, clean,dirty etc. So if your going to loosen and tighten many many times eventually you will probably need a triple clamp. Maybe they will last the life of the bike, maybe not. It's a chance you take if you want to adjust frequently. Just MY opinion.
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