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Old 03-03-2013, 02:26 AM   #136
Ted farkas
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Thanks,

I'm using a clymers manual but the wiring diagram was ords ( for there basic non compliance models) .
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:09 PM   #137
Lenz1
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Eh?

Well I had hoped I would be able to live with the almost complete loss of headlight at low revs but it's neither useful or safe in any traffic. I don't just want to see I also want to be seen.

So I have devised a cunning plan to provide 12V - 25V DC from the Yellow/red magneto lead. A bridge rectifier ($Au 5) produces the DC and a 40V 10000 micro Farad capacitor ($Au 10) provides a storage capacity for low rev periods. If the single capacitor isn't enough I'll add another. The reason for using capacitors is their tolerance of a much wider input voltage range than batteries. The yellow and white AC leads provide 12V - 25V AC depending on revs and if the regulator is switched onto either yellow or white.

I'm gonna massage the handle bar light and hi / lo switches so the low beam is powered directly from the light switch and only the high beam is switched at the hi / lo switch. This allows both high and low beam to run when high beam is switched on and still provides low beam when high beam is switched off.

If the light body melts we'll know not to do that again won't we .....
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:17 AM   #138
Ted farkas
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Hi lenz,

Following your posts closely, my system is straight 6v including ac for headlights, looking at diag it seems by just replacing seperate regulator to 12 v ac and adding new rectifier to 12 vdc my jobs done. I see your bridging/ rec post but cant follow exactly follw where wires should be going where eg rec is just red and white wire not shore where the black goes.

Thanks
Brett
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:30 AM   #139
yokesman
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I ran my norton for years on a capacitor alone for years,day and nite.
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:24 AM   #140
Lenz1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted farkas View Post
Hi lenz,

Following your posts closely, my system is straight 6v including ac for headlights, looking at diag it seems by just replacing seperate regulator to 12 v ac and adding new rectifier to 12 vdc my jobs done. I see your bridging/ rec post but cant follow exactly follw where wires should be going where eg rec is just red and white wire not shore where the black goes.

Thanks
Brett
This is how I would deal with your situation

First confirm the AC magneto output voltage at the magneto power leads. A meter set to AC with the black meter lead to the black magneto return wire that is not committed to the ignition circuit and the red meter lead to the individual AC power lead/s. Record the voltage with lights on and lights off (regulator is on when lights are on) at mid range revs

If the AC voltage ranges up to 20+V AC then perhaps 12+V DC can be produced and maintained but if the lighting coils only produce a very low raw AC voltage maybe you're stuck with a 6V system unless the lighting coils inside the magneto are replaced. If the system really is 6V AC at the magneto wires then MAYBE 12V DC can be created by branching the magneto power wire and return wire to create 2 source AC points and connecting 2 bridge rectifiers in series. I haven't tried this with bridge rectifiers before but increasing voltage by connecting batteries in series is commonly done

So we ain't beat yet if it only pumps 6V AC but I can't give any definite suggestions until the magneto / lighting coil output is confirmed

Lenz1 screwed with this post 03-07-2013 at 03:49 PM
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Old 03-08-2013, 03:01 AM   #141
Ted farkas
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Sorted out the idleing today - dont know how as i,ve pillued tehcarby apart about 10 times - seems to sort itself out after warm up.

Only get about 2 vdc at blinkers and rec so problem somewhere before i evn worry about a 12 v convert.

Thanks
Brett
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:27 AM   #142
Lenz1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenz1 View Post
Well I had hoped I would be able to live with the almost complete loss of headlight at low revs but it's neither useful or safe in any traffic. I don't just want to see I also want to be seen.

So I have devised a cunning plan to provide 12V - 25V DC from the Yellow/red magneto lead. A bridge rectifier ($Au 5) produces the DC and a 40V 10000 micro Farad capacitor ($Au 10) provides a storage capacity for low rev periods. If the single capacitor isn't enough I'll add another. The reason for using capacitors is their tolerance of a much wider input voltage range than batteries. The yellow and white AC leads provide 12V - 25V AC depending on revs and if the regulator is switched onto either yellow or white....
The cunning plan using capacitors is entirely unsuccessful - even 2 of the little devils produced sweet fuck all results at low revs

So moving on to Plan N - N for Numbnut - I'm looking at running a lightweight Shorai 12V 7Ah battery as the backup power. The power / charge circuit will be from the white AC magneto wire unregulated into a bridge rectifier to produce DC power which will be regulated within the charging range of the battery. I'm gonna run everything off this source
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:06 PM   #143
Ted farkas
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Hi lenz,

With bridge rectifier - did you run dc neg straight to frame, and ac neg on black return wire into magneto.

Thanks
Brett
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:20 AM   #144
Lenz1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted farkas View Post
Hi lenz,

With bridge rectifier - did you run dc neg straight to frame, and ac neg on black return wire into magneto.

Thanks
Brett

The black return wire is joined to AC neg rectifier terminal. I opted to not use the frame as the common DC earth / return and ran the DC circuit isolated from the frame. Apparently lifting the return wire off the magneto "earth" and running the lighting coils isolated from the frame produces increased power.

Betta Bikes in South Australia has advised me they routinely rewind lighting coils to produce increased electrical output. The recommended setup is to send them the stator backing plate and they will install 2 upgraded lighting coils that are then joined to produce around 160 watts.

Because I am looking to install LED headlights plus GPS I will run the ignition system as the standard unaltered AC circuit but the upgraded lighting coils will produce AC into a combined rectifier / DC regulator for 100% DC output with a gel battery. It appears lead acid / gel batteries are much more tolerant than lithium batteries when it comes to high recharge rates so a good quality gel based battery around 7Ah will be also on the purchase list.

Why am I doing all this work I hear you say ....

I bought the bike as a low km basket case (not running) with the intention of bringing it up to specs for rough bush tracks and cheap, fun road transport before I upgraded to a new bike. However after a 750km and a couple of 650km days on our seriously beatup roads in Queensland I've realised I don't need to spend a shitload of money on a new Triumph 800 XC - I now just need to upgrade the lights / electrical output and order a fuel bladder for extra range on longer runs

The seat is comfortable, the suspension works fine, the bike only weighs 130kg - 135Kg, it's stable at speed and handles with the lightest of input.The engine is dirt simple but continues to put a smile on my dial when I open the throttle - 15:50 final gearing in 6th gear at just under 110kph just open the throttle and it accelerates hard to 145kph and tops out at 150kph - I don't need any more "go" than that Average fuel consumption is 4.5 - 5.5litres / 100km.

I don't know how this engine compares to standard TT350s in performance / output but there are certainly many areas that can be improved from standard in the porting, manifolds, inlet tract, air filters, cam chain adjustment. Carbies are standard TT350 with std jetting - they just need to be adjusted correctly and they work perfectly.

I have described my modifications to these areas in previous posts here and in the XT350 focussed thread.

The brakes can only be described as adequate at best .....

This bike ticks most of the boxes for me After upgrading the electrical output / lighting and fuel capacity I expect to enjoy a lot of not so gentle kilometers around Australia - who says I needed a new 650 Wee Strom / Triumph Tiger 800 XC / 1200 mega bike etc etc

Lenz1 screwed with this post 03-21-2013 at 04:43 AM
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:19 PM   #145
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For me, a perfect stable would be a TT350 and a WeeStrom.
The DR650 is a great do all bike, but just not so good 2 up.
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:45 PM   #146
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I seriously doubt that anyone's perfect stable would consist solely of a V Strom and a TT350...

While these two bikes would complement each other well, and be different enough that each has its own specific use, I think most peoples "perfect stable" would consist of at least six bikes, with three of those being mega expensive rare as hens teeth single focus bikes that would be a massive pain in the ass to live with...
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:43 PM   #147
Renxx
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TT350 1991 rebuild:

Front forks from Honda CR250 1991:




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Old 03-21-2013, 05:33 PM   #148
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tHEtREV View Post
I seriously doubt that anyone's perfect stable would consist solely of a V Strom and a TT350...

While these two bikes would complement each other well, and be different enough that each has its own specific use, I think most peoples "perfect stable" would consist of at least six bikes, with three of those being mega expensive rare as hens teeth single focus bikes that would be a massive pain in the ass to live with...
My perfect bikes need to be able to take a hit with a large hammer without looking uglier than previously.
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:21 AM   #149
Ted farkas
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Puke

Hi lenz,

I see your seperating the ground as it appears you need a floating grd in either ac or dc circuit for this to work. My circuit diag indicates ac dc share ground and run on same system sort of eg tail light blinkers brake light
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:33 AM   #150
Lenz1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted farkas View Post
Hi lenz,

I see your seperating the ground as it appears you need a floating grd in either ac or dc circuit for this to work. My circuit diag indicates ac dc share ground and run on same system sort of eg tail light blinkers brake light


The tail light (AC) and brake light (DC) originally shared the same earth so since I didn't have a clue how this worked I ran the tail light and brake light off the DC circuit and isolated the DC circuit from the frame common gnd used by the AC circuit. The guys from Betta Bikes tell me there are increases in output if the return / gnd / black wire from the lighting coil is not connected to the coil laminations / frame (common gnd) but alternatively run to the AC neg terminal on the bridge rectifier.

The end result was a headlight only that ran on AC with the rest on DC - still a bloody mess that lost all lights at low revs / idle. So I've managed to get the rotor off after a serious battle - shit those things are on tight - and I find 2 stator coils. The smaller of the coils has the ignition duty judging by the output wire colours and there's a single big, heavily wound coil that runs the lighting duty. I've measured the ignition coil output at up to 60V AC and the lighting coil at greater than 25V AC but it's the power that's available under load at low revs that I've got a problem with. I thought Mr Lucas of British bike fame was the only "Prince of Darkness".....

Being taken out in traffic because some clown couldn't see my near dead lights just has no appeal to me.

So there's pics to be taken of the original coils attached to the backing plate and advice sought on what needs to be done next week. As I mentioned earlier I've decided to bite the bullet and install additional high output lighting coils with a full 12V DC system - except for the AC requirements of the ignition circuit.

Lenz1 screwed with this post 03-23-2013 at 08:10 AM
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