TT350 Not XT350 - Page 8

becki · 12-01-2012, 08:52 AM

K.&N for street. or with a skin.

German Trick · 12-01-2012, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HereToBuy

Is there really a difference between them? One type better or worse? Sorry for being such an idiot when it comes to bikes.

Not a big fan of K&N. I have a UNI on mine but if you have no filter at all and go with the UNI you'll need the inner cage and possibly the holder, (parts 11 & 12).

http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemp...43/air-cleaner

tradex56 · 12-01-2012, 11:26 AM

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HereToBuy · 12-01-2012, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by German Trick

Not a big fan of K&N. I have a UNI on mine but if you have no filter at all and go with the UNI you'll need the inner cage and possibly the holder, (parts 11 & 12).

http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemp...43/air-cleaner

I went with K&N already :\ looked easy to wash haha. It did have the cage its just the filter on it had the middle manually ripped

AND for a quick update on my progress i pulled out the tail light which was not functioning and it said it was 12v. Now this leaves me to wonder whether i actually have a 12v bike! Or if that is why it wasn't working.. When my bike is up and running i am going to take a voltmeter to it and find out. Could save me a lot of time and money if its 12v

Tradeex56, beautiful set-up, i stare into those blinkers and dream.

NordieBoy · 12-02-2012, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HereToBuy

I pulled out the tail light which was not functioning and it said it was 12v. Now this leaves me to wonder whether i actually have a 12v bike! Or if that is why it wasn't working.. When my bike is up and running i am going to take a voltmeter to it and find out. Could save me a lot of time and money if its 12v

I stuck a 12v rear bulb in mine as the 6v one kept blowing...

HereToBuy · 12-03-2012, 06:53 PM

Having a back firing problem, someone told me that the way the bike is set-up its impossible to put it together with the wrong timing. Was he right? Cause if its not timing i'm assuming the carburetor is the only problem, he mentioned it wasn't tuned.

NordieBoy · 12-03-2012, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HereToBuy

Having a back firing problem, someone told me that the way the bike is set-up its impossible to put it together with the wrong timing. Was he right? Cause if its not timing i'm assuming the carburetor is the only problem, he mentioned it wasn't tuned.

I just replaced the cam chain and it'd be quite easy to get it all wrong...

Anklyne · 12-04-2012, 03:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HereToBuy

So if i was to replace only the 6v stator to one that was 12v, and then find a way to wire it so it comes out DC to the lights. It should work? My Dad was saying that he thought the regulator is what decided the voltage or something. BTW, thank you for the info! Already more help then TONS of google searching!!

EDIT: I re-read that post a couple time Anklyne. I think i pretty much fully understand what your saying. But does this set-up require a battery? Like this, stator > regulator > battery > lights. Or can you just cut the battery out of the equation?

These bikes don't need a battery to run (the ignition all runs on its own AC circuit), but if you want your lights to work when the bike isn't running or want the lights to flicker less, then a battery is a good idea.
"stator > regulator > battery > lights" as you said.

Stock, my bike had a separate 6v regulator and rectifier, but what you'll find with 12v is that most/all bikes have a combined regulator/rectifier. My bike currently has the same reg/rec used on an XT600. Cost me AU$70 or something.

As for the 12v globe in your taillight, my bike came with a 12v globe in the headlight AND taillight

6v globes are a bit of a pain to get a hold of (where I live at least).

HereToBuy · 12-04-2012, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

I just replaced the cam chain and it'd be quite easy to get it all wrong...

Well crap... Should i take it to a shop and ask them to check the timing then? It seems to run okay, but it backfires and stutters is this normal for a cold engine? Also, when you put on some throttle its not very responsive then suddenly the engine starts speeding up and slowing down even if you haven't adjusted the throttle. Btw this is all in neutral. I still haven't gotten to ride this motorcycle(or any) cause i have been advised its not smart to try and learn on it.

Edit: Okay that was stupid it obviously doesn't run okay or i would be riding it(stupid me)... Basically it sounds like it misfires, but in between misfires it sounds good. Besides throttle seeming sorta un-responsive. Although if it was a timing issue wouldn't it misfire in the same pattern not randomly like now? Also see gas dripping out the bottom of my bike, not much though(not sure where from either). I am left with the conclusion that my carbs are letting in to much gas and some is flooding out. Would explain why when i give throttle it misfires more because its flooding? I'm sure i'm wrong about everything. But you guys don't seem to mind helping me. Thank you!

NordieBoy · 01-12-2013, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Well the cam chain is replaced. The old one was about 8mm longer than the new one and the old guides were cracked...

Now to get new lock washers, some o-rings, a cam cover gasket and those 4 rubber bungs on the cam bearing caps. Mine are no longer rubber after 21 years of heat cycling and one has shattered...

It lives!

Purrs at a nice consistent idle.

Lenz1 · 01-31-2013, 04:01 PM

TT350 electrics:

I've got the engine running - nice crackle to the Staintune exhaust.

The wiring setup is interesting to say the least.

There's 3 main output leads off the magneto: brown runs the ignition (unregulated 12+voltsAC), yellow into yellow/red runs the headlight and tailight (regulated up to 13.8volts AC) and white which runs brake lights, indicators and horn.

This white lead shows an unregulated 18 - 24 volts AC at ~ 3000 - 4000 rpm and is only switched onto the voltage regulator when the head / tail light circuit is off due to the light switch setup. This sometimes "voltage-tamed" white lead is connected to a basic diode - white in, red out. This appears to be a rough as guts way to produce something that passes for 6 volt DC by only sending part of one side of the AC wave. It's no wonder the little 6V batteries and light bulbs have a high failure rate given the variation in voltage on the input side of the diode - at best the diode only cuts the input by half.

The white and yellow/red won't share the std voltage regulator at the same time ie don't like to be joined so I'm gonna add another basic 12V AC regulator to the white lead circuit. At this stage I'm not convinced that a rectifier or 12V DC is necessary

Can anyone tell me how 12V DC indicator sender units and 12V DC horns go on AC - or will it be "try a little, die a little" as usual

creaky · 01-31-2013, 07:10 PM

HereToBuy.....I had an '86 TT350 a long time ago, good dependable bike. The carbs can be a problem, pull them for a cleaning, check the float levels, check the pilots for clogging, might need new float needles and seats.

pigeyes · 02-01-2013, 01:27 AM

HTB, I have a few TT350's and the most common cause of the problem you have described is the rubber intake stubs that the carby's attach to. If you have a close look at them and see the rubber bonding is coming away from the inner alloy stub what you get is massive air leaks where you least want them, also make sure the O-ring's between the cylinder head and intake stubs are in place and in good condition. Of course all the timing needs to be correct as well.
New stubs aren't cheap but are available genuine and are handed,i.e left and right specific, just look at all this closely and it all comes together eventually. They are a sweet motor when tuned right and like to rev, I luv em.
Sometimes the bonding problem can seem like something else altogether and can be hard to see and it certainly doesn't hurt to pull the carbs and give the stubs a good tweak,push ,pull & shove as they can be 90% ok yet that 10% is the culprit.
hope this is useful info for you and good luck.
Mick

Quote:

Originally Posted by HereToBuy

Having a back firing problem, someone told me that the way the bike is set-up its impossible to put it together with the wrong timing. Was he right? Cause if its not timing i'm assuming the carburetor is the only problem, he mentioned it wasn't tuned.

NordieBoy · 02-08-2013, 08:36 PM

Nicked some suspension bearings from NordieBro's parts bike and used the best bits to rebuild mine today.

Still sloppy :(

Main slop seems to be in either the bushings/needles/bolts in the dogbone.
The dogbone centres are only at about 50mm, so any slop multiplies out significantly at the wheel.

Lenz1 · 02-09-2013, 07:01 AM

So this wear in the dog bone bearings means there is a loose up and down movement to the back wheel ?

Is it possible or worthwhile to measure the bolt / shaft dimensions that the needle rollers run on before you take the plunge and replace the bearings ? The shaft / bolt is more likely to be worn or locally marked perhaps ?

12-01-2012, 11:26 AM	#108
tradex56 Adventurer Joined: Feb 2012 Location: friuli ITALY Oddometer: 38	my xt 350 86 [ Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

01-31-2013, 04:01 PM	#116
Lenz1 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2010 Location: Queensland Australia Oddometer: 125	TT350 rebuild project - from XT350 thread TT350 electrics: I've got the engine running - nice crackle to the Staintune exhaust. The wiring setup is interesting to say the least. There's 3 main output leads off the magneto: brown runs the ignition (unregulated 12+voltsAC), yellow into yellow/red runs the headlight and tailight (regulated up to 13.8volts AC) and white which runs brake lights, indicators and horn. This white lead shows an unregulated 18 - 24 volts AC at ~ 3000 - 4000 rpm and is only switched onto the voltage regulator when the head / tail light circuit is off due to the light switch setup. This sometimes "voltage-tamed" white lead is connected to a basic diode - white in, red out. This appears to be a rough as guts way to produce something that passes for 6 volt DC by only sending part of one side of the AC wave. It's no wonder the little 6V batteries and light bulbs have a high failure rate given the variation in voltage on the input side of the diode - at best the diode only cuts the input by half. The white and yellow/red won't share the std voltage regulator at the same time ie don't like to be joined so I'm gonna add another basic 12V AC regulator to the white lead circuit. At this stage I'm not convinced that a rectifier or 12V DC is necessary Can anyone tell me how 12V DC indicator sender units and 12V DC horns go on AC - or will it be "try a little, die a little" as usual

01-31-2013, 07:10 PM	#117
creaky Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2008 Location: Indiana Oddometer: 168	HereToBuy.....I had an '86 TT350 a long time ago, good dependable bike. The carbs can be a problem, pull them for a cleaning, check the float levels, check the pilots for clogging, might need new float needles and seats. __________________ '98 BMW F650 '92 Honda 750 Nighthawk '85 Honda VF500F Interceptor '96 XR400 "Once you go over the hill, you start picking up speed!"

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12-01-2012, 08:52 AM	#106
becki Adventurer Joined: Mar 2008 Oddometer: 19	K.&N for street. or with a skin.

12-03-2012, 06:53 PM	#111
HereToBuy n00b Joined: Nov 2012 Location: CA, United States Oddometer: 7	Having a back firing problem, someone told me that the way the bike is set-up its impossible to put it together with the wrong timing. Was he right? Cause if its not timing i'm assuming the carburetor is the only problem, he mentioned it wasn't tuned.

02-08-2013, 08:36 PM	#119
NordieBoy Armature speller Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,763	Nicked some suspension bearings from NordieBro's parts bike and used the best bits to rebuild mine today. Still sloppy :( Main slop seems to be in either the bushings/needles/bolts in the dogbone. The dogbone centres are only at about 50mm, so any slop multiplies out significantly at the wheel.

02-09-2013, 07:01 AM	#120
Lenz1 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2010 Location: Queensland Australia Oddometer: 125	So this wear in the dog bone bearings means there is a loose up and down movement to the back wheel ? Is it possible or worthwhile to measure the bolt / shaft dimensions that the needle rollers run on before you take the plunge and replace the bearings ? The shaft / bolt is more likely to be worn or locally marked perhaps ?