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Old 09-18-2011, 06:27 PM   #1156
bgoodsoil
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w00t! I got the new ones! Anton saves the day again.
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:52 AM   #1157
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OK, so I realized my change to 7wt fork oil and backing off the RaceTech further effectively eliminated all damping......

I am going to go back to 10wt and dial in a bit more on the GV's and test some more... also going to add some comp both ways on the Ohlins....

These observations come from all my miles being street miles this year... last year was at least 50% dirt and I wanted my G/S to act more like an MX bike... for next year the goal will be a compromise that is more 50/50 then the previous 25/75 (street/dirt) I was looking for..

First I need to find some new crush washers for the fork drain bolts... roughly 5.3mm ID and 7.7mm OD. The last one's I got from my dealer were WAY wrong.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 11-05-2011, 04:56 PM   #1158
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Well, got the right crush washers, change the fork oil to 10wt, and re-set my gold valves to 1.25 turns of pre-load...

Checked my odometer to record the work and looked at my maint log.

Wow, where did this year go? No multi-day off-road ride this year or last and I did the least miles I have done in twenty three years of riding...

341 total miles in 2011, how weak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:53 PM   #1159
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It sure has been a while since I updated this thread.. I have been spending my limited motorcycle time working on hanging the 1999 KTM 640 Adventure front end one (here's the thread)

In the process of taking apart the headlamp shell to pull the tach until I can fab a new mount location I discovered this:




Not good news at all!

Time to ping wirespokes and hope he can help me out.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 02-18-2012, 05:44 PM   #1160
bgoodsoil
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Go digital, man. A speedo is one area where electronics has mechanics beat. Now, ignition systems on the other hand....
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:21 PM   #1161
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Yup, that's cost cutting for you! I don't know how they ever figured plastic would be strong enough to handle the forces subjected to that area.

Yes, I can fix it and it'll be beautiful! Much much nicer and stronger than new!
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:57 PM   #1162
One Less Harley
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That plastic gets so brittle w/ age, should be replaced w/ metal when ever rebuilt. IMHO.
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:59 AM   #1163
Wirespokes
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Exactly! Mine get replaced with brass.
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:32 AM   #1164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
Yup, that's cost cutting for you! I don't know how they ever figured plastic would be strong enough to handle the forces subjected to that area.

Yes, I can fix it and it'll be beautiful! Much much nicer and stronger than new!

Done deal!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:09 AM   #1165
isheyesheis
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Hi there,
Had the same issue with my speedo, with the threaded section snapping off! I turned up one in ally, but i think brass would be better as it's a harder metal.
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290364
If this link works there should be some photos on there.
Good luck with it.
Stuart.
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:27 AM   #1166
Wirespokes
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Aluminum is waaay better than the original plastic, but brass is better. Since that piece is also the end bushing for the input shaft, it needs to be aligned with the rest of the mechanism all the way through to the needle. Because of that, some accurate machining is required to locate the replacement piece in the original housing. From what the machinist told me, making up the part is easy, it's indexing that part into the original housing that was tricky.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:21 PM   #1167
isheyesheis
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Hi Wirespokes,
I was a bit worried about alinement issues at first, But thought I would give it a go. I decided that basically there are two points you can use for reference. I first machined to hole to take the plastic bush that the speedo drive shaft passes through. Then I cut the main body (the bit that is threaded) so it just pushed through the hole in the speedo casing (first reference point), this allowed me to use the two holes in the metal casing as a guide to drill through (second reference point). These holes are used to screw the inner workings to the speedo casing, and in turn help to aline the new aluminium part keeping everything in line, and it works a treat, and beats the alternative which was a replacement speedo at big !
-Was going to post photo but can't seem to do it?
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:30 AM   #1168
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Good for you! So you aligned the two mounting screw holes to keep both pieces properly positioned?

Posting pictures here requires first loading them to a hosting site and then linking to the message here.
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:00 PM   #1169
isheyesheis
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Hi Wirespokes,
Yes that's what i did, the two screws aline all the components together (new section and speedo drive section).
Hopefully some photos here?




...or here?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/isheyes...7629423973933/
Cheers
Stuart.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:08 AM   #1170
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Sending the speedo of to WS tomorrow!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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