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Old 05-01-2013, 02:11 PM   #8746
TheInfamousDrBholmes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda_dood86 View Post
I have a 1986 honda ch250 i just picked up,I am rebuilding the variator,I want to put new roller weights in there it has 7000 miles on it, I found these ones that were called dr. Pulley weights I think, they were not round but oblong anyone ever heard of them? I cant seem to find any lighter ones in the 24x18 size all I can seem to find are the factor weights. Anybody know where I can get a lighter set of roller weights for a 86 ch250 as I would like a lil more takeoff? I have not got to ride it all maybe the stock take off is good? I am a 300 lb man and was just thinking a lil more take off would be good any suggestions?
Ugh! Post that somewhere else! Hahahaha not really. I just hate fooling with variators. I had a polaris that was modded once and screwed with them forever and never got it to work the way I wanted to. Anyhow... Are you wanting the machine to rev up higher before your take off or start out at a lower rpm? If you know what you're doing already and depending on how it's built (i'm not super familiar with them), you may be able to get a descent scale and carefully grind some material off them. If you're stuck with the stock ones, what about different spring tensions? There's a forum for scooters and they may have more information about the variators for ya http://advrider.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=36 and to start a new thread in the scooters section click that link then at the top left hand corner there should be a button that says "new thread" click that if you want to make a new thread about it.
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:25 PM   #8747
WVdyhrd
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Originally Posted by JTucker View Post
Wheel bearings, fork seals, countershaft seal.
Ride, repeat. Lol
x2, these are the most common parts I sell for average maintenance. There are upgrades for both and will save a few times taking stuff apart!


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Originally Posted by tdrrally View Post
a fan kit is cheaper than a cooked top-end
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Originally Posted by IngoldWV View Post
A cooked top end? WTF are you doing? Holding it wide open with the clutch pulled in for forever? Do you even know how to ride?
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Originally Posted by WVhillbilly View Post
I plod around on my EXC and it doesn't get hot.
No fan on it either.

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Originally Posted by bholmes View Post
I was being silly My 300 smiles no matter what. And I don't always ride it hard/fast. Only bikes I got that will puke fluid are four strokes.
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Crap that CRF450 I had would boil like crazy too. Oddly enough...my 620 likes to boil and it has a beasty cooling system and fan. If you leave it idle it will boil in a few minutes. 300xc or my 250sx I had I still haven't boiled either one.
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Oh C'mon now Jess, stop moderating the fight. I wanted to see a good one!
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:27 PM   #8748
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I have a airhawk2 on my bike. It is a good product for the money $99.00. If had it to do over again I would probably buy the regular airhawk.


AirHawk vs. AirHawk 2: What’s the difference?

by Ryan Wright



This is the number one question I get asked by bikers who are interested in purchasing an AirHawk Cushion. That is why I am going to outline the biggest differences based on my own experience and the experience of many of my customers.

If you put an AirHawk and an AirHawk 2 side by side the first thing you will notice is an obvious distinction in material. The original AirHawk is made from a synthetic rubber material, Neoprene. It is a durable material that can be “patched” if punctured.

The ROHO Group, the US based manufacturer of AirHawk cushions, is well known for their medical cushions used by patients that have or are at risk for pressure sores. Their neoprene air cushions are the best product on the market for relieving pressure and preventing pressure sores. ROHO took this same medical technology and applied it to the design of the AirHawk cushion. The AirHawk 2 is made from polyurethane, a less durable material then neoprene. The difference in price from the AirHawk to the AirHawk 2 is due to the material costs. Neoprene is more expensive material then polyurethane.

The AirHawk 2’s polyurethane material is not as easily repairable if punctured and also does not offer the support and comfort for riders who consistently go on longer distances on their bikes.

With this said, the feedback is that both styles of AirHawks increase comfort and provide a more enjoyable ride.

Both the AirHawk and AirHawk 2 come with a 60-day guarantee. Because polyurethane is a less durable material then neoprene, the AirHawk 2 has a 1 year warranty vs. a 2 year warranty on the original AirHawk.

The bottom line is that both the AirHawk and the AirHawk 2 use air cell technology that is far superior to gel, foam, or synthetic sheepskin. You can’t go wrong with either. If you are a stickler for quality and tend to go on longer rides, I recommend the original AirHawk. If you just want some added comfort and only go on occasional longer rides, the AirHawk 2 is a great bargain.
thanks for the info I am really considering the Airhawk R for me and a airhawk 2 for the pillion. Pillion section of my Sargent hasnt sean nearly as many miles as my section, so im sure the 2 will be fine for wifey. The Sargent used to be good for 10-12+ hour days. Now it packs down and by the end of the day im hitting the pan and my knees start to hurt. It compresses enough i need to readjust my mirrors late in a ride.

Typically we use sheep skins on long trips, they help, but alas the foam in the seat is dying a slow painful death. I really expected more out of it, whats the point of an expensive seat if you have to send it off every 3-4 years to get new foam?
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:31 PM   #8749
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Originally Posted by WVdyhrd[IMG
https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSPhsWuWJsR9WUjQJMj0p7KOb-eEHd5Cb5B9IwilndgT6WzJTxQuw[/IMG]
It is to me but then again there's little that I take serious.
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:47 PM   #8750
WVdyhrd
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Originally Posted by tdrrally View Post
its a euro bike it was made to sell parts
Speaking of Euro trashing, how is your BMW?

A wise jedi once imparted to me the wisdom of

90% Indian and only 10% arrow

One of my euro bikes has ridden coast to coast on the same thumper top end, and endured my last few years of abuse.

I've seen guys, some in this very forum, climb nasty hills on bikes as old as me, that I wouldn't try on a fully kitted new one; and I've seen some with perfect bikes that couldn't get outa first gear.


Hell with my recent luck, I'll ride anything that runs and doesn't die on me Someone pass me a



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It is to me but then again there's little that I take serious.
That's the right mentality!
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WVdyhrd screwed with this post 05-01-2013 at 02:52 PM
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:15 PM   #8751
tdrrally
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the bmw is a euro bike

my question is how many jap parts will it take to make it near something

i have 3 thumper jap bikes with more than enough mileage on them to have been across country two or three times each
if ktm still made your bike they would have something
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:21 PM   #8752
WVdyhrd
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Originally Posted by tdrrally View Post
the bmw is a euro bike

my question is how many jap parts will it take to make it near something

i have 3 thumper jap bikes with more than enough mileage on them to have been across country two or three times each
if ktm still made your bike they would have something
They do still make LC4's

Putting Jap parts on might make ya have good snappy comebacks; The best thing for the BMW is to ride it

But lemme keep pulling out the old dude phrases people have told me here:


Only a poor carpenter blames his tools.
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:26 PM   #8753
tdrrally
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it gets ridden plenty

the euro shocks are dun (waiting on jap shocks now)
the euro forks are crap (waiting on jap forks now)
the brembo brakes are a bad jock (waiting on jap brakes now)

the jap tyres are working nicely
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:27 PM   #8754
TheInfamousDrBholmes
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Originally Posted by WVdyhrd View Post
They do still make LC4's

Putting Jap parts on might make ya have good snappy comebacks; The best thing for the BMW is to ride it

But lemme keep pulling out the old dude phrases people have told me here:


Only a poor carpenter blames his tools.

Hmmm, I have 4 euro bikes. None of them really give me any problems. Once in a while something wears out and replace it and keep on riding. I usually push them pretty hard too. Just saying.....
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:33 PM   #8755
WVdyhrd
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Originally Posted by tdrrally View Post
it gets ridden plenty

the euro shocks are dun (waiting on jap shocks now)
the euro forks are crap (waiting on jap forks now)
the brembo brakes are a bad jock (waiting on jap brakes now)

the jap tyres are working nicely
I assume you ensured all the above were serviced in it's long life properly, and that you aren't expecting anything out of a standard road bike that maybe it wasn't designed for; nor forgetting that all bikes of it's time frame would have similarly dated components? No? I suppose that it's more fun just to bash others.

Maybe you could pull some parts off a 500 Twin....oh wait


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Hmmm, I have 4 euro bikes. None of them really give me any problems. Once in a while something wears out and replace it and keep on riding. I usually push them pretty hard too. Just saying.....
RXC's
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:38 PM   #8756
tdrrally
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the rxc is the ktm to have

what happened to the lc4 after that who knows
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:40 PM   #8757
tdrrally
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Originally Posted by WVdyhrd View Post
I assume you ensured all the above were serviced in it's long life properly, and that you aren't expecting anything out of a standard road bike that maybe it wasn't designed for; nor forgetting that all bikes of it's time frame would have similarly dated components? No? I suppose that it's more fun just to bash others.

Maybe you could pull some parts off a 500 Twin....oh wait




RXC's
the standard fix for the r80/7 and gs airhead bikes is jap forks brakes ect
the stock bit were crap in the 80's and crap now
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:45 PM   #8758
WVdyhrd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdrrally
what happened to the lc4 after that who knows
I guess the many satisfied customers in years since, and the throngs hoping for new applications in the future, just go to show you how shitty they are.



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Originally Posted by tdrrally View Post
the standard fix for the r80/7 and gs airhead bikes is jap forks brakes ect
the stock bit were crap in the 80's and crap now
Designed for a purpose. Seems good to cruise around town and pull in a diner.
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:50 PM   #8759
tdrrally
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ignorance is bliss to some i guess

its an ok bike , nothing i would have gone out of my way to get , for sure
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:16 PM   #8760
WVhillbilly
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Originally Posted by bholmes View Post
Hmmm, I have 4 euro bikes. None of them really give me any problems. Once in a while something wears out and replace it and keep on riding. I usually push them pretty hard too. Just saying.....

Yer 620 gets hot?
Might need to take another look at it, mine never has.
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