ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-28-2012, 05:10 AM   #5701
sokhransky
n00b
 
Joined: May 2012
Oddometer: 4
Tyre sizes

I know it might be a stupid question, but please don't throw stones at me ;) I've search the thread and couldn't find the answer.

I finally got all the papers and enjoying my little Dominator on the Spanish roads. However, the tyres need to be changed quite urgently as they are nearly bold.

Now it runs Dunlop K460 on the front with 90/100 size. However, I've seen in a few places on the internet that claim the correct size is 100/90. So the question is which one is right? I believe it's a European bike with "matricula" in 1998.

Or they both will work fine? I'll be getting either trailwings or this K460 both for the rear and the front.
sokhransky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 05:43 AM   #5702
Orkodelamuerte
Adventurer
 
Orkodelamuerte's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Argentina, Cordoba
Oddometer: 80
Cool2

Quote:
Originally Posted by sokhransky View Post
I know it might be a stupid question, but please don't throw stones at me ;) I've search the thread and couldn't find the answer.

I finally got all the papers and enjoying my little Dominator on the Spanish roads. However, the tyres need to be changed quite urgently as they are nearly bold.

Now it runs Dunlop K460 on the front with 90/100 size. However, I've seen in a few places on the internet that claim the correct size is 100/90. So the question is which one is right? I believe it's a European bike with "matricula" in 1998.

Or they both will work fine? I'll be getting either trailwings or this K460 both for the rear and the front.
It depends basically on what you already have, and if you like what you have. The 100/90 will have a more robust appearance while the 90/100 is the normal thing... IMHO, I like the bike looking "wide" so I would stick to the 100/90.

In spanish now..

"Depende basicamente de lo que ya tengas, y de lo que te gustaría tener. La 100/90 tiene una apariencia más robusta mientras que la 90/100 es lo que usualmente se usa. Si me preguntas a mi, me gusta el aspecto -ancho- asique me quedaría con la 100/90."
Orkodelamuerte is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 06:00 AM   #5703
sokhransky
n00b
 
Joined: May 2012
Oddometer: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orkodelamuerte View Post
It depends basically on what you already have, and if you like what you have. The 100/90 will have a more robust appearance while the 90/100 is the normal thing... IMHO, I like the bike looking "wide" so I would stick to the 100/90.
Orkodelamuerte, thank you very much for your reply. Then I'll just check which one is available earlier. Unfortunately there is no way to tell if the option I have is any good ;) the front wheel is so worn out it has weird slightly triangular shape with very small contact patch. Feels very sketchy when going faster than 60km/h.
sokhransky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 06:37 AM   #5704
Orkodelamuerte
Adventurer
 
Orkodelamuerte's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Argentina, Cordoba
Oddometer: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambucas View Post

Any suggestions on other things to try before we replace the head gasket? Any ideas on what this problem might be, if it is not the head gasket?

Thanks again in advance! :)

Greetings from Kampala, Uganda

Dave and Marly, www.travelin.tk

Ps. We now just fill up the coolant every morning before driving and usually make it without overheating until we arrive in the afternoon, but sometimes it starts to overheat before we arrrive...
Hello Sambucas...

I don't know if it would help, but i experienced the same issue on my first and recent 400 mile trip. Every 100 mile stop, I checked the water inside the radiator, and 200mlts where always gone... Nothing more, nothing less.. just 200mlts.

It didn't get to the point of overheating since it was straight road non mountain track... but I realized that the reserve tank was full. What the heck I said.. Later I realized I was intaking some air from the upper connection of the breather tube that goes to the radiator right below the cap. What happened is that when water boiled and expanded, it will send some out to the deposit, but when it cooled, it wouldn´t suck it back due to that faulty connection. I installed a clamp there, and problem fixed.

Good luck!

Orkodelamuerte screwed with this post 09-28-2012 at 06:59 AM
Orkodelamuerte is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 06:57 AM   #5705
Orkodelamuerte
Adventurer
 
Orkodelamuerte's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Argentina, Cordoba
Oddometer: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by thirstybuck View Post

I'm having a problem of my own. I bought a battery about 6 weeks ago and now it is dead. I haven't gotten out the multimeter yet, but I'll describe what is happening to me in hopes that someone will be able to identify my problem. When running the bike the neutral light at an idle flickers. When I have the turn signals on at a light the neutral light and the headlight will dim when the turn signals are flashing. Today, finally there was not enough juice to turn over the motor so I'm forced to take a look at what is wrong. I want it to be something easy after everything I've already done.
Thanks in advance.
Been there.. My battery was not recharging... so slowly after some usage it will go dead.. At first I thought it was the battery, so I tried with the one from my NX 150, but the trouble duplicated... I took the cheapest path, and replaced the regulator... Nothing happened..

NOTE: I was having no spark as well, as the engine gained heat.

I checked the alternator, and i was having a short there... Here is how to Inspect it:


1- Disconnect the regulator/rectifier {alternator) 3P connector.

2- Check the resistance between the connector terminals. STANDARD: 0.1-1.0 Q (at 20°C/68°F)

3- Check for continuity between the connector terminals and ground. There should be no continuity.

4- Replace the alternator stator if readings are far beyond the standard, or if any wire has continuity to ground.

Hope it helps... All wires you have to check are yellow
Orkodelamuerte is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 09:31 AM   #5706
Sambucas
travelin.tk
 
Sambucas's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Oddometer: 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by thirstybuck View Post
First, where is it "dumping" coolant?

An instance of Occum's razor? The obvious answer is the one that makes the most sense. The head gasket is pretty straightforward compared to repairs you have done already. However, I understand that sourcing one in Africa is another question.

I'm having a problem of my own. I bought a battery about 6 weeks ago and now it is dead. I haven't gotten out the multimeter yet, but I'll describe what is happening to me in hopes that someone will be able to identify my problem. When running the bike the neutral light at an idle flickers. When I have the turn signals on at a light the neutral light and the headlight will dim when the turn signals are flashing. Today, finally there was not enough juice to turn over the motor so I'm forced to take a look at what is wrong. I want it to be something easy after everything I've already done.
Thanks in advance.
Hi Thirstybuck,

Thanks for your answer.

It's dumping coolant from the radiator into the overflow tank. And when the overflow tank is full, it starts to dump it on the street, via the tube that runs down from the overflow tank to the engine guard.

What is Occum's razor??? Sorry, never heard of it and I don't understand...

*EDIT* Ah, found it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam's_razor

It is a principle urging one to select from among competing hypotheses that which makes the fewest assumptions.
*EDIT*

Head gasket replacement should be doable, it's just a lot of arranging. (find a good place to work, get the gasket send from Europe to Africa) That's why I want to try everything else, before trying that one.

Regarding your problem: the battery is obviously completely flat. As it is showing syptoms of a flat battery, even while the engine is running, it doesn't seem to get juice from the alternator.

Now, the alternator hardly ever has a problem, although you can measure the voltage between any 2 of the 3 yellow wires that come from the alternator and the voltage should always be around 60V (with more than 2500 rpm). This test is also in the workshop manual, so look there for more details.

But like I said, the alternator usually is not at fault, usually it is the rectifier/regulator. Now, I know from experience that these are quite hard to test. The most obvious test is measuring the voltage your battery gets from the regulator when then engine is running +2500rpm. The voltage should be +15V. If it doesn't reach +15V, the regulator is broken and needs to be replaced. (you can't repair these units, period.) The problem is that if the regulator gives +15V to the battery it is not a guarantee that the regulator is working properly! :( I had a broken regulator once (on my Kawasaki ZZR600), but if gave +15V very nicely, but it didn't charge my battery and I had to manually charge my battery every other day, to be able to keep driving.

I tested this broken regulator with a test that is described in the workshop manual of the Kawasaki ZZR600, but it's a bit difficult to perform, because it involves 3 different 12V batteries and a 12V light bulb and a lot of cabling. But this test spotted the broken regulator perfectly! (and the second hand regulator that I bought to replace it and that also turned out to be broken... )

The simplest way is to buy a new regulator and try if the bike now behaves well, but this is not cheap, especially if it turns out that something else is broken. Also your battery could be broken by now (because of the broken regulator) and then you also need a new battery, but my guess is that this battery will live again, once you have got everything sorted.

Good luck!!! :)
__________________
Crossing Africa on 2 Honda NX 250s! www.travelin.tk

Sambucas screwed with this post 09-28-2012 at 09:40 AM Reason: Definition of Occum's razor
Sambucas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 09:53 AM   #5707
Sambucas
travelin.tk
 
Sambucas's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Oddometer: 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by RollingJ View Post
Sambucas-

I'm thinking you have a restriction in the cooling system or a worn water pump impeller. If you are running straight water, eventually you will coat the system with whatever minerals are in the water you are using. It gets worse the more it overheats, because the minerals stay behind when the water boils. I would remove the radiator and check for flakes of white minerals at the bottom outlet. If it's very bad, try the vinegar fix.

Vinegar fix- Pull the water pump and clean it with straight white vinegar. Re-install the pump and fill the system with 50/50 vinegar/water. Run the bike until the radiator cap gets hot + 1 min. Drain the system (pull the lower hose to let the big stuff come out, then open the drain valve), fill with clean water. Run the bike until the radiator cap gets hot + 1 min. Drain. Repeat once more with clean water. Drain. Now, fill with 50/50 aluminum safe anti-freeze/water. You may be amazed at the crap that is in your cooling system.
Hey RollingJ,

Thanks for your answer!

I will check again and try to organise the radiator cleanout.

But I have to say that the radiator and cooling system of the overheating bike is the cleanest I have ever seen on a bike of this age. No 'white stuff' in the radiator or around the hose connections. Almost no 'stuff' in the waterpump house. And when I disassembled the thermostat, to test it, it seriously looked like a brand new one... So I doubt that there is a blockage in the radiator. The cooling system is also filled with coolant, not water! When I bought the bike, it had coolant in it and it still has coolant in it. I know the long-term destructiveness of ordinary water in your cooling system.

(The other NX250 HAD water in the cooling system when I bought it and the whole cooling system was one big white stuff mess... I have cleaned the cooling system according to your method before we started this travel and filled it with real coolant. When I changed the coolant about a year later, it was still murky/dirty from all the contamination, caused by the water before... I also took out the thermostat on this one and it was one big clump of rust and white stuff. But it still works perfect! ;) Obviously I gave it a clean and tested it before I put that one back. No overheating at all on that bike, though, never! ;)

What we also did while investigating the 'dumping coolant' problem was to measure the temperature of the radiator on many different places (different 'tubes', 9 in total) with a laser infrared temperature meter. The temperature fluctuated between different tubes, but no much (max. variation was 70 versus 95 degrees Celsius). We were thinking that a blocked tube would show up with a much lower temperature as an 'open' tube. We repeated the measurements on the non-overheating NX and we had the same range of temperatures and the same spread, so it seems to be normal.

The one thing we didn't try yet in this whole story is exchanging the radiators of the overheating and the non-overheating bike, so maybe we will try that before we start talking head gasket replacement...

Cheers for your suggestion! :)
__________________
Crossing Africa on 2 Honda NX 250s! www.travelin.tk
Sambucas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 09:58 AM   #5708
Sambucas
travelin.tk
 
Sambucas's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Oddometer: 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orkodelamuerte View Post
Hello Sambucas...

I don't know if it would help, but i experienced the same issue on my first and recent 400 mile trip. Every 100 mile stop, I checked the water inside the radiator, and 200mlts where always gone... Nothing more, nothing less.. just 200mlts.

It didn't get to the point of overheating since it was straight road non mountain track... but I realized that the reserve tank was full. What the heck I said.. Later I realized I was intaking some air from the upper connection of the breather tube that goes to the radiator right below the cap. What happened is that when water boiled and expanded, it will send some out to the deposit, but when it cooled, it wouldn´t suck it back due to that faulty connection. I installed a clamp there, and problem fixed.

Good luck!
Hola Orkodelamuerte! Gracias por tu respuesta! (Che, vivia yo en Buenos Aires/Argentina por un ano en 2006, asi q tambien hablo el Castellano Argentino, boludo! ;)

Thanks for your suggestion! I will doublecheck if we are not sucking in air at the upper connection of the breather tube. I am also thinking to swap radiators with the other, non-overheating, NX250, so then I could make sure this connection is non-suspect!

Cheers for thinking with us! :)

Saludos desde Africa!
__________________
Crossing Africa on 2 Honda NX 250s! www.travelin.tk
Sambucas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 10:05 AM   #5709
Sambucas
travelin.tk
 
Sambucas's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Oddometer: 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by sokhransky View Post
Orkodelamuerte, thank you very much for your reply. Then I'll just check which one is available earlier. Unfortunately there is no way to tell if the option I have is any good ;) the front wheel is so worn out it has weird slightly triangular shape with very small contact patch. Feels very sketchy when going faster than 60km/h.
Just a general tip to everybody: If you do less than 40% offroad and more than 60% onroad (enduro), like we are doing in our travel, look at Metzeler Tourance tires. Really good!!! :)

Great grip onroad and impressive grip offroad for a non-offroad tyre (non-nobly). And the best thing is, they last forever! We started our travel in The Netherlands with brand-new Metzeler Tourance and now, 1 year and 18.000km on the road, the Metzeler still seem to be at 40%! So total life will be near 25-30 thousand kilometers. For a tyre that will very well hold it's own on offroad tracks!

The other bike had 80-90% Heidenaus (K60?) when we left and in the middle track the nobs are completely gone now (profile less than 1mm), so the seem to last around 20-25Kkm, but obviously these tires are more geared to offroad. Also a good choice, especially when you plan to spend more time off than on the tarmac! ;)
__________________
Crossing Africa on 2 Honda NX 250s! www.travelin.tk
Sambucas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 10:14 AM   #5710
Orkodelamuerte
Adventurer
 
Orkodelamuerte's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Argentina, Cordoba
Oddometer: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambucas View Post
Hola Orkodelamuerte! Gracias por tu respuesta! (Che, vivia yo en Buenos Aires/Argentina por un ano en 2006, asi q tambien hablo el Castellano Argentino, boludo! ;)

Thanks for your suggestion! I will doublecheck if we are not sucking in air at the upper connection of the breather tube. I am also thinking to swap radiators with the other, non-overheating, NX250, so then I could make sure this connection is non-suspect!

Cheers for thinking with us! :)

Saludos desde Africa!

Holy crap... the world is so small.. Suerte!
Orkodelamuerte is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 11:13 AM   #5711
thirstybuck
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: NA
Oddometer: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by RollingJ View Post
Sambucas-
Thirstybuck-
I agree with the stator diagnosis. They are not hard to rewind yourself, but it is a daunting task the first time you do it.
Craaaaaaaaaap.
thirstybuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 11:38 AM   #5712
fikse
All-season-rider
 
fikse's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Norway, between lakes and fjords
Oddometer: 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambucas View Post
Just a general tip to everybody: If you do less than 40% offroad and more than 60% onroad (enduro), like we are doing in our travel, look at Metzeler Tourance tires. Really good!!! :)

Great grip onroad and impressive grip offroad for a non-offroad tyre (non-nobly). And the best thing is, they last forever! We started our travel in The Netherlands with brand-new Metzeler Tourance and now, 1 year and 18.000km on the road, the Metzeler still seem to be at 40%! So total life will be near 25-30 thousand kilometers. For a tyre that will very well hold it's own on offroad tracks!

The other bike had 80-90% Heidenaus (K60?) when we left and in the middle track the nobs are completely gone now (profile less than 1mm), so the seem to last around 20-25Kkm, but obviously these tires are more geared to offroad. Also a good choice, especially when you plan to spend more time off than on the tarmac! ;)
Thanks for tip. When (if?) your back to &%¤ cold Europe, and consider winterdriving in snow/ice, I have just got informed (and ordered) that Heidenau have started to produce their 100% silica, all-season but more a wintertyre, model K66, also as a 16", fitting to the OE rear wheel on the Nixie! Had same tyres (with studs) on my former bike, performing brilliant as snow and ice-tyres, and performed OK also on wet/dry tarmac. Heidenau also makes 100/90-19 wintertyre, also suited for studs, but even without they are sticky on ice because of the soft "rubber" :-)
__________________
Life is a just a game - lets play!
fikse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 11:40 AM   #5713
fikse
All-season-rider
 
fikse's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Norway, between lakes and fjords
Oddometer: 88
Seems like an good idea to swap rads, Sambucas! I would also swap all parts as rad cap, tubes....the lot. Just to be certain.
__________________
Life is a just a game - lets play!
fikse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 12:25 PM   #5714
Orkodelamuerte
Adventurer
 
Orkodelamuerte's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Argentina, Cordoba
Oddometer: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orkodelamuerte View Post
Working on the fairing can be really exhausting... uff.. I just finished sanding putty stuff, and I realized the work is not over... need to repeat the job...

Since i don't want to cut open my veins with a cracker, I decided to move forward to the carburator.. I cleaned it, replaced some o-rings since there was some small leackage, and since i was in the area, i decided to inspect the thermostat, but to my surprise... THERE WAS NONE THERE!!!!

The question is... is that bad? what could happen? for all I know the coolant has a constant flow without it, am I right?
Any comments on this??
Orkodelamuerte is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 01:14 PM   #5715
thirstybuck
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: NA
Oddometer: 80
Charging

I tested the battery and I got 13.5v at 5000 rpm. It never went above 13.5 tho. I did the voltage leak test as specified in the manual and it came back 0.0 v. However the battery is almost completely flat so I will need to charge it and try it again. I have both the wiring diagram AND the manual for the NX and I was not able to find the yellow wires to check the regulator rectifier. Underneath the seat I opened the little box with the connections inside but I did not see 2/3 yellow wires there. There was one bullet style connector that looked like it had gotten hot in the past.

Once the battery is charged I plan to test:

The voltage across the battery at 5k rpm. Red/Black.
The alternator: The connection under the gas tank?
Regulator/rectifier? Where is this connection?

I'm not having any spark/ignition issues just charging and dimming lights.

Would anyone be willing to provide some phone assistance that has done this before? Please PM me if yes.
Electronics, regardless of how simply, is usually my weak suite. Thanks.

thirstybuck screwed with this post 09-28-2012 at 03:22 PM
thirstybuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 06:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014