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Old 12-02-2012, 07:06 AM   #5866
Motoswami
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: northeast Georgia
Oddometer: 80
cruddy gas tank

Ratchdaddy said:

"We are going to have to clean the tank real good. Somewhere in the past the tank was creamed or some other treatment. Now it is coming off in spots. The petcock was clogged with a gummy substance."

Suggestion: in the meantime, an in-line filter might prevent having to re-do the carb cleaning job.

Good daddy showing your son how things work. Too bad he wasn't on hand for the magic moment when the planets lined up just right and it fired up.

Pete

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Old 12-02-2012, 01:23 PM   #5867
fikse
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Location: Norway, between lakes and fjords
Oddometer: 88
STartup after a week of freezing temps.
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:57 PM   #5868
Ratchdaddy
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Location: 29 Palms, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motoswami View Post
Ratchdaddy said:

"We are going to have to clean the tank real good. Somewhere in the past the tank was creamed or some other treatment. Now it is coming off in spots. The petcock was clogged with a gummy substance."

Suggestion: in the meantime, an in-line filter might prevent having to re-do the carb cleaning job.

Good daddy showing your son how things work. Too bad he wasn't on hand for the magic moment when the planets lined up just right and it fired up.

Pete
Yup Pete,

I knew I should have used the inline filter but the parts store was 20 minutes away and we were on a roll this morning. We spent the morning cleaning the tank. Layers of the cream crap came out and lots of rust but no leaks.. Cleaned the petcock good and the screen. I thought the tank was clean enough the the petcock screen would catch anything if there was still some crud. I was wrong. She started right up and we were riding her around for about 30 min before the carb gummed up again. Oh well, we know how to pull it off now.

The other problem that became evident was that the clutch in the new engine may be bad. I am going to pull it apart later. It does not disengage. I am thinking probably warped plates or a weak spring. Anyone have any thought on this? I have the good clutch from my other engine but I looked online and a fleabay clutch pack is only 40 bucks so I may go that route if necessary. Back to the garage.

Turns out that I am also missing all the air cleaner parts. I will tear apart the garage and my storage unit to see if they were missplaced. I dont remember if I ever had them at all. Any good alternatives such as a pod airfilter that anyone has done?
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:17 PM   #5869
tntmo
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 421
I've got a tank and an airbox for sale.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratchdaddy View Post
Yup Pete,

I knew I should have used the inline filter but the parts store was 20 minutes away and we were on a roll this morning. We spent the morning cleaning the tank. Layers of the cream crap came out and lots of rust but no leaks.. Cleaned the petcock good and the screen. I thought the tank was clean enough the the petcock screen would catch anything if there was still some crud. I was wrong. She started right up and we were riding her around for about 30 min before the carb gummed up again. Oh well, we know how to pull it off now.

The other problem that became evident was that the clutch in the new engine may be bad. I am going to pull it apart later. It does not disengage. I am thinking probably warped plates or a weak spring. Anyone have any thought on this? I have the good clutch from my other engine but I looked online and a fleabay clutch pack is only 40 bucks so I may go that route if necessary. Back to the garage.

Turns out that I am also missing all the air cleaner parts. I will tear apart the garage and my storage unit to see if they were missplaced. I dont remember if I ever had them at all. Any good alternatives such as a pod airfilter that anyone has done?
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:26 PM   #5870
RebelYell
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Ahhh look its a snow lepeaord nice kittyGoes to show ya Hondas ultra reliability
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Old 12-02-2012, 11:42 PM   #5871
fikse
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Location: Norway, between lakes and fjords
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratchdaddy View Post
The other problem that became evident was that the clutch in the new engine may be bad. I am going to pull it apart later. It does not disengage. I am thinking probably warped plates or a weak spring. Anyone have any thought on this? I have the good clutch from my other engine but I looked online and a fleabay clutch pack is only 40 bucks so I may go that route if necessary. Back to the garage.
I had a rough clutch. It did disengage, but very difficult to find the spot between engage/disengage. This spot varied for each time I used the clutch... Bought a fleabay-set. Replaced all plates, but the springs appeared not not fit (1 round to much, still length and diameter was identical). No difference, still very rough. Then replaced springs (bought OEM, acceptable price), voila. Clutch like new. Pretty straight forward to replace springs, no need for special tools: New gasket, new oil/filter and cooling liquid. You need a special nut-remover to replace plates (possible to DIY, but cheap on fleabay).

Best of luck
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Old 12-02-2012, 11:53 PM   #5872
fikse
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Location: Norway, between lakes and fjords
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RebelYell View Post
Ahhh look its a snow lepeaord nice kittyGoes to show ya Hondas ultra reliability
Definately! Several VAG cars (Transporter, Audi A4), a couple Toyota's and a Ford refused to start yesterday. Our Opel started with some cuffs. I was pretty surprised the Nixie started so instantly. The throttle was partly frosen, and most switches was hard to move. Ignition switch was frozen in the steeringlock mecanism, even if I have greased all moving parts with quality grease/oil. Got an hour with playing in the snow and ice (I should have a bike camera!), and the new Heidenau studded wintertyres got "approved" from me Some bigger studs would be better on the ice, but this slippery ice its rather seldom to experince on the roads here, so... :-)
But it's cold to drive now. It's alot moisture in the air, so it's not comfortable to breath..
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:18 PM   #5873
thirstybuck
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: NA
Oddometer: 80
Winter

I bought my NX as a skeleton with a bunch of boxes and put it together. Then I blew it up. Then I fixed it again. I made a MCCT and I've been riding it almost everyday since then. It's been between anywhere between 20-65F here and it never skips a beat. 20* morning, crack the throttle once, close the choke, and it start like a champ. I mainly commute in the city and I can't really fault the bike. I know that was its original intended purpose and I'm finally getting to enjoy it as such. I'm able to park next to the GS's, KTMs, and DRZs and just smile as I walk into work. Sure they look great, but the NX is economical, simple, nimble, and peppy enough to make a city commute fun - and dissuade me from modding my car.

Anyway, the point of this post is to say that despite the fact that my NX qualifies as an antique next year I'm thoroughly enjoying it and I wasn't sure I ever would after it exploded. I plan to continue driving it through the winter a part from when there is snow/ice on the streets. Any other winter commuters in here? I need to change out to fork oil and do an oil change this weekend. To my knowledge, a fork oil change is dead simple: pop out the drain bolt, pump the fork a couple times, replace bolt, and then crack the tops off and refill with 13.9oz of ATF. I wanted to add PVC spacers as well as a cheap preload to counteract the marshmallow fork. What size PVC has been used? 1.5" or 2" diameter? I know there are better ways to do this, but I'm just looking to take a little of the brake dive out of it and have a bit better ride.

Stay warm and ride on!
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Old 12-05-2012, 04:58 PM   #5874
RebelYell
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: somerset nj
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Right now my nx sits in the garage uninsured and not registered,Im debating if i wait till spring or not to go get it on the street.Right now money has been kind of tight.
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Old 12-06-2012, 04:19 AM   #5875
fiep
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Location: GA
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if money is tight now,
what makes you think it will be less tight after xmas?
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:52 PM   #5876
RebelYell
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Location: somerset nj
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It wont be less tight and sad to say if we fall off fiscal cliff alot of us are going over w it I feel.THis bs is gonna bankrupt america. Hell I might just have to park the car n truck an ride moreIm german,ya know what they say about germans,ya just cant keep a good german down
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:53 AM   #5877
Honda Scoot
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Location: N.E. Ohio
Oddometer: 357
Quote:
Originally Posted by thirstybuck View Post
I need to change out to fork oil and do an oil change this weekend. To my knowledge, a fork oil change is dead simple: pop out the drain bolt, pump the fork a couple times, replace bolt, and then crack the tops off and refill with 13.9oz of ATF. I wanted to add PVC spacers as well as a cheap preload to counteract the marshmallow fork. What size PVC has been used? 1.5" or 2" diameter? I know there are better ways to do this, but I'm just looking to take a little of the brake dive out of it and have a bit better ride.
Preload fork spring spacers work, but they can only load the spring rate that remains in the old springs.
Using 15 wt (150 lb rider) or 20 wt (200 lb rider) fork oil will slow the fork compression and delay the bottoming of the springs espessially with an inch less of fork travel when using preload spacers.

This is the order used from top to bottom:
White PVC Spacer, 1 1/16" in diameter, cut SQUARE at 15/16" in length
1/16" thick stainless steel flat washer 1 1/4" diameter
Short factory Spring
Factory Washer
Long Factory Spring

Same feelings here on the NX. Every couple of months I think about replacing it. With what?
High strung dualsport - requires an oil change every 6 hours of use - No way
Another reliable dualsport - have one - I'm Swiss - Why spend money on a newer version of what I have.
Keeping this bike FOREVER!
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:26 AM   #5878
valvecrusher OP
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Dos Circlos
Oddometer: 1,684
If anyone has a plastic DRIVE SPROCKET COVER for the left side,

Please PM me, with a price....

When my chain exploded this week, it busted mine up...
Luckily, i was only going 3mph when the chain locked up and wrapped around the CS sprocket...



All I need is the little plastic cover that keeps your pants from getting chewed into the drive chain..


Thanks ya'll, Ride Safe!
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:05 AM   #5879
tntmo
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 421
Quote:
Originally Posted by valvecrusher View Post
If anyone has a plastic DRIVE SPROCKET COVER for the left side,

Please PM me, with a price....

When my chain exploded this week, it busted mine up...
Luckily, i was only going 3mph when the chain locked up and wrapped around the CS sprocket...



All I need is the little plastic cover that keeps your pants from getting chewed into the drive chain..


Thanks ya'll, Ride Safe!

I had the same thing happen, the master link went bye-bye and the chain destroyed the cover. I salvaged most of my parts and glued them back together, but it's still not all there. Sort of like my mind.
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:58 PM   #5880
larry31
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: New Hampshire
Oddometer: 261
Cover Repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by valvecrusher View Post
If anyone has a plastic DRIVE SPROCKET COVER for the left side,

Please PM me, with a price....

When my chain exploded this week, it busted mine up...
Luckily, i was only going 3mph when the chain locked up and wrapped around the CS sprocket...


All I need is the little plastic cover that keeps your pants from getting chewed into the drive chain..


Thanks ya'll, Ride Safe!

Maybe this would help if you decide to repair the old one.
http://www.plastex.net/Home_Page.php
I haven't tried it but seems like a possible repair item if that's the way you have to go.
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