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Old 04-06-2013, 07:16 AM   #6211
hrothgarbike
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Location: acrost the tracks, 3 down from Kenny
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noises and tanks

Is a small amount of valve noise normal? My NX is so quiet that I can hear more of the engine than I can on any other bike I have. There is no noise at all till I hit 3-3.5k RPM's and it makes a little till 6-7K rpm's. It is by no means loud. I call it valve clatter. Bike runs perfect and smooth now that I rebuilt the carb.

2nd, Is there a larger tank option? Thanks!
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:49 AM   #6212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plibnik View Post
Hello! I'm not all that late - just one year has passed!
The trip was changed, I urgently bought a Transalp and we made a Trans-Alp journey. Yet I won't sell my trusted AX-1, never!
Thanks for your advice, it came to be of use.

And look whom I saw at one of the mountain passes!:



This little dude got to Grimsel pass from the islands! It had British license plate and speedo in MPH, not KPH. Cool!
Hey that's my little one!
On Grimsel at August 18 last year. Extremely hot weather but no problems for the NX. I'm not from the UK but the Netherlands. Was traveling in Switzerland and part of Italy and a total of around 3000 km.

Also saw you guys and girl on the 3 motorcycles (2 Transalps and a blue road bike) from the Ukrain. I have a picture which I can forward by email.
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:08 AM   #6213
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Also at Grimsel:


hot:
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:57 AM   #6214
Giorgi
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Idle speed problems after New CDI

Quote:
Originally Posted by CurtW View Post
Well, I can report that the CDI works fine. Something tells me there were multiple issues with the old one, as the idle speed jumped up ~500 rpm, and the whole system seems to be idling at a lower voltage (12.2).
Hi CurtW.

I came across of your post here. I recently purchased CDI from Belgium on Ebay for 110 and after installing it works and bike is running now but problems I'm having now is idle peed. It jump up 500 RPM exactly like yours but it feels like it is about to die on me all the time. It definitely takes longer to worm up and engine shuts off on idle speed even after 10 min riding. After that it works fine but still works very week and feels like it's going to die. I was about to take it to the shop again and came across your post. Please let me know what are my option on this.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:55 AM   #6215
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Try adjusting your idle screw which is on the rear of the carb near the petcock. It is a hand screw which doesn't require tools

HLC
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:03 PM   #6216
jsonder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrothgarbike View Post
Is a small amount of valve noise normal? My NX is so quiet that I can hear more of the engine than I can on any other bike I have. There is no noise at all till I hit 3-3.5k RPM's and it makes a little till 6-7K rpm's. It is by no means loud. I call it valve clatter. Bike runs perfect and smooth now that I rebuilt the carb.

2nd, Is there a larger tank option? Thanks!
The only valve noise that I can detect is at idle and that is just a suggestion. I checked the valves 5K miles ago and had 0.010 in on both intake valves and the right exhaust valve, the left exhaust valve was 0.009 inches.
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:01 PM   #6217
CurtW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giorgi View Post
Hi CurtW.

I came across of your post here. I recently purchased CDI from Belgium on Ebay for 110 and after installing it works and bike is running now but problems I'm having now is idle peed. It jump up 500 RPM exactly like yours but it feels like it is about to die on me all the time. It definitely takes longer to worm up and engine shuts off on idle speed even after 10 min riding. After that it works fine but still works very week and feels like it's going to die. I was about to take it to the shop again and came across your post. Please let me know what are my option on this.
I'm not sure. I have not experienced any of these problems. Mine continues to run just fine (although, again, at higher idle speed). I was planning to re-solder the OEM CDI next month. I'll probably stick it back in at some point to see if there's still a difference.
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:29 PM   #6218
valvecrusher OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsonder View Post
The only valve noise that I can detect is at idle and that is just a suggestion. I checked the valves 5K miles ago and had 0.010 in on both intake valves and the right exhaust valve, the left exhaust valve was 0.009 inches.

The '89 was at .009 for all intake valves, and .009 for the exhaust valves..

50,000 miles

very slight tick 1% of the time at idle..
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:49 AM   #6219
plibnik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by less=more View Post
Hey that's my little one!
On Grimsel at August 18 last year. Extremely hot weather but no problems for the NX. I'm not from the UK but the Netherlands. Was traveling in Switzerland and part of Italy and a total of around 3000 km.

Also saw you guys and girl on the 3 motorcycles (2 Transalps and a blue road bike) from the Ukrain. I have a picture which I can forward by email.
Heh, that's us, and it was my birthday :)

I was so proud to see a NX up there, it meant that it (or my AX-1 :) ) can do whatever its bigger brothers can do as well )

P.S. got tricked by MPH speedo and yellow license plate.

(except it was sad to see a sign "no scooters and no >250cc motorcycles allowed" at a paid road to Venice).

We too rode through some Italy, Switzerland, then got back through Slovenia and Hungary.

And later that year my friend moved with wife and child to Loewen near Brussels, so this summer I'm planning to visit them, something like Kyiv-Ostende, on Transalp if we'll be 2-up, and maybe on AX if I'll be alone.

And of course no problems for NX! I love its small water-cooled revvy engine :)
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:24 AM   #6220
Orkodelamuerte
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Hesitation

So this is why I want to buy a gallon of gas, and torch my bike..

After all I´ve been through to rebuild the engine and all, now I have troubles with my carb or something else... u tell me.

What happens is that between 4000 and 5000 revs (no matter the gear), the engine hesitates, as if no gas or no spark or sth.. below or above that, it runs fine.. My jets are new, pilot is set in 2 turns since ever... air filter brand new, spark plug brand new, ignition coil and CDI brand new too..

I was thinking maybe valve clearance, but i adjusted that 2000 miles ago..

So I`m blind here...
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:51 AM   #6221
jsonder
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You are way too far away to offer to loan the cdi from my bike to try in yours, but, that is the first thing that comes to mind. Usually, a failing cdi causes engine dying with longer and longer times before it will restart.

But, it is either the cdi, the coil, or the "exciter", or pulse generator; check all electrical connections to these items and their mounting. You may be getting a frequency dependent vibration that is momentarily causing a disconnect.

If the wiring seems solid, you are into substitution tests.

P.S. You have to split the bottom end to get at the pulse generator, so, I would wait on that until you do an oil change. Especially as (despite the troubleshooting guide in the shop manual) it is rarely the culprit. I have replaced one needlessly.
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:36 AM   #6222
Orkodelamuerte
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsonder View Post
You are way too far away to offer to loan the cdi from my bike to try in yours, but, that is the first thing that comes to mind. Usually, a failing cdi causes engine dying with longer and longer times before it will restart.

But, it is either the cdi, the coil, or the "exciter", or pulse generator; check all electrical connections to these items and their mounting. You may be getting a frequency dependent vibration that is momentarily causing a disconnect.

If the wiring seems solid, you are into substitution tests.

P.S. You have to split the bottom end to get at the pulse generator, so, I would wait on that until you do an oil change. Especially as (despite the troubleshooting guide in the shop manual) it is rarely the culprit. I have replaced one needlessly.
I have my old CDI that still works, so I´ll swap them and see what happens..

Edit: by the way.. if it were a problem with the pulse generator, wouldn`t I have that issue at any rev?

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Old 04-11-2013, 10:09 AM   #6223
hrothgarbike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orkodelamuerte View Post

What happens is that between 4000 and 5000 revs (no matter the gear), the engine hesitates, as if no gas or no spark or sth.. below or above that, it runs fine.. My jets are new, pilot is set in 2 turns since ever... air filter brand new, spark plug brand new, ignition coil and CDI brand new too..
Does it hesitate and then run, stumble but run, or die? If it simply runs poor I would be willing to bet it's your emulsion tube. I tore my carb apart and as I recall it is part of the main jet as well. Either way, if you have an emulsion tube that is worn at all (more than 25k miles will do it) it will cause a rich mid throttle response which acts just like you have listed. I tried and tried to fix that on my old F650 BMW and had no luck. It took some advice from a jetting wizard (Factory Pro) who had the thought that I should check mine. If there is any sign of wear in the orifice or if any of the little holes are plugged, your cruise circuit won't work right. Mine had a bad large orifice (ovaled a little). Replaced them (2 on the BMW, 2 carbs) and VIOLA! Perfection. The Emulsion Tube is part #18 on this diagram.

Here is place to find it. http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-nx250-198...ist/E++16.html

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Old 04-11-2013, 11:06 AM   #6224
Orkodelamuerte
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrothgarbike View Post
Does it hesitate and then run, stumble but run, or die? If it simply runs poor I would be willing to bet it's your emulsion tube. I tore my carb apart and as I recall it is part of the main jet as well. Either way, if you have an emulsion tube that is worn at all (more than 25k miles will do it) it will cause a rich mid throttle response which acts just like you have listed. I tried and tried to fix that on my old F650 BMW and had no luck. It took some advice from a jetting wizard (Factory Pro) who had the thought that I should check mine. If there is any sign of wear in the orifice or if any of the little holes are plugged, your cruise circuit won't work right. Mine had a bad large orifice (ovaled a little). Replaced them (2 on the BMW, 2 carbs) and VIOLA! Perfection. The Emulsion Tube is part #18 on this diagram.

Here is place to find it. http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-nx250-198...ist/E++16.html


I pray to the metal horse gods that`s it... It´s the only damn thing I didn´t change on my carb..

I´ll try to describe the issue.. I sit on the bike, start it with no problem (cold or warm), hit the street, whenever I get to 4000 revs, it will start jerking. If I maintain the revs constant in 4000 to 5000, it will keep on jerking for hours; only when I go below 4000 or above 5000 will the bike go smooth. That happens at all gears.

Well, it seems I´ll have a busy afternoon...
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:05 PM   #6225
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Cool2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Orkodelamuerte View Post

I´ll try to describe the issue.. I sit on the bike, start it with no problem (cold or warm), hit the street, whenever I get to 4000 revs, it will start jerking. If I maintain the revs constant in 4000 to 5000, it will keep on jerking for hours; only when I go below 4000 or above 5000 will the bike go smooth. That happens at all gears.
.

shiver me timbers!

This is a wierd symptom that it just so happens, was experienced by ME yesterday night...the 4k-5k 'bucking'..


It's just too bad that i'm 100% sure that your bike's issue is not the same as mine....but oddly, i had that exact experience last night..




Rode over to a buddies house last night, and we were going to ride a 'night loop' after work...
(I got a ride on a sweet GoldWing Aspencade, fully dressed...holy crap, was he trying to make me give up the Nx2?)
We took out his KX100, cranked up the KX250F, and the CR500 ...

finally, right before we embark, he says "Hey, lemme ride the NX"...
I reluctantly said 'sure, ok....(grumble grumble)'

He takes off out the driveway, and i can hear the bike bucking from where i stood..
He took two laps of the neighborhood, and you could hear the bike running well down low, running well up north of 6k...but in the mid rpm's, it was BUCKING, and jerking badly...


He pullled back in and let me have it!
"Why do i ride such a piece of junk? Why don't i let (local guy) rebuild the carb?"...... etc, etc...

I knew he was not joshing, i could hear the bike bucking as he tried to ride it..but just sitting there, idling...i could blip the throttle all the way, and it seemed 'kinda normal'..


Well, he left to grab his kids, and i went to get some 'warm, night riding clothes'..
I went maybe 25 ft, and the bike was hesitating, bucking, missing and jerking...


The bike missed, and wouldn't barely run 25mph tops..(wth?)

I barely got home, but i noticed that over 6k rpm, the bike would PULL HARD, and under 4k, it would lug right along....
but between 4k and 6k it would totally Misfire, jerk, and buck BADLY..



My ride for the night looked pretty badly..so did my ride tommorrow, and all next week.....
(I was 99% certain he revved the junk out of it, and blew up the motor)


So, I start checking connections, and they are all good/tight....

start to tear off the bodywork, and i remove the seat...

BINGO!!



Laying right on top of the opening for the airbox, was my registration paperwork, and it's plastic covering(bag)...
It had formed a seal(completely) over the airway, and had a small corner that was allowing air to pass through...(at high rpms)


I removed the papers/plastic, and NX go BOom!(good as new)




That was all it was.....my buddy goosed it, and the negative pressure sucked the registration papers from the 'tail section storage area' right down into the airbox..







Now, do you have the equipment to check the Pulse Generator values?


PG's are notorious failure points on the XRs....iirc, they are the same part, but the NX is water cooled, and XR's are hot blooded aircooled oilbaths..so in XRs you change them 'often'...


you can check the PG in about two minutes, it requires chasing the wires up out of the crank case into the wiring harness plug...

unplug it, and check the values...COLD(room temp)...
If it is NOT in spec(even a slight bit)

CHANGE IT!




Good luck!
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