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Old 04-11-2013, 11:50 AM   #6226
Orkodelamuerte
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valvecrusher View Post
shiver me timbers!

This is a wierd symptom that it just so happens, was experienced by ME yesterday night...the 4k-5k 'bucking'..

It's just too bad that i'm 100% sure that your bike's issue is not the same as mine....but oddly, i had that exact experience last night..


Now, do you have the equipment to check the Pulse Generator values?

PG's are notorious failure points on the XRs....iirc, they are the same part, but the NX is water cooled, and XR's are hot blooded aircooled oilbaths..so in XRs you change them 'often'...

you can check the PG in about two minutes, it requires chasing the wires up out of the crank case into the wiring harness plug...

unplug it, and check the values...COLD(room temp)...
If it is NOT in spec(even a slight bit)

CHANGE IT!

Good luck!

LOL! It makes me wanna remove the seat and check if there is sth there jaja

Will do that PG check too..
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:43 AM   #6227
hrothgarbike
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Sounds like an easy check on the PG. I can tell you I had the same issue on the BMW. All gears, but worse the higher up I went. It was an RPM issue. Ran great outside of a certain RPM. A bad ET will cause rich midrange. It's cheap and sorta easy to fix.
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:06 AM   #6228
Local Machine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orkodelamuerte View Post
...What happens is that between 4000 and 5000 revs (no matter the gear), the engine hesitates, as if no gas or no spark ...
Usually when the bike hesitates to pull around the mid area the culprit would be a clogged up venturi jet. You'll need to remove it and get yourself some fine steel piece of wire and run it through the tiny holes on the body of that thing until all gunk's been removed.
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Old 04-15-2013, 07:37 AM   #6229
Giorgi
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Honda NX CDI

Quote:
Originally Posted by CurtW View Post
I'm not sure. I have not experienced any of these problems. Mine continues to run just fine (although, again, at higher idle speed). I was planning to re-solder the OEM CDI next month. I'll probably stick it back in at some point to see if there's still a difference.

Thanks for reply. Also wanted to add to that it works weak on 2000RPM when idling but after 20 - 30 minutes of riding RPM's go down to 1500-1600 and it works well after that. But still something weird is going on here. I will post when I find a clue
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:10 AM   #6230
Orkodelamuerte
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrothgarbike View Post
Sounds like an easy check on the PG. I can tell you I had the same issue on the BMW. All gears, but worse the higher up I went. It was an RPM issue. Ran great outside of a certain RPM. A bad ET will cause rich midrange. It's cheap and sorta easy to fix.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Local Machine View Post
Usually when the bike hesitates to pull around the mid area the culprit would be a clogged up venturi jet. You'll need to remove it and get yourself some fine steel piece of wire and run it through the tiny holes on the body of that thing until all gunk's been removed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hrothgarbike View Post
Does it hesitate and then run, stumble but run, or die? If it simply runs poor I would be willing to bet it's your emulsion tube. I tore my carb apart and as I recall it is part of the main jet as well. Either way, if you have an emulsion tube that is worn at all (more than 25k miles will do it) it will cause a rich mid throttle response which acts just like you have listed. I tried and tried to fix that on my old F650 BMW and had no luck. It took some advice from a jetting wizard (Factory Pro) who had the thought that I should check mine. If there is any sign of wear in the orifice or if any of the little holes are plugged, your cruise circuit won't work right. Mine had a bad large orifice (ovaled a little). Replaced them (2 on the BMW, 2 carbs) and VIOLA! Perfection. The Emulsion Tube is part #18 on this diagram.

So last weekend I tore the carb apart and reached the emulsion tube.. I have a super-tiny drill that I used very gently to clean the little holes.. not much too clean though... I also left aside that plastic cap that goes mounted on the main jet, just in case. Cleaned the rest a little bit, and mounted the carb again.

I must say I can feel an improvement on performance but it`s still not fixed. Now, it will not jerk as before, but it still stumbles before I get past 5k revs. Also noticed that it does it when I make a rapid acceleration, but If I go up in revs gently, it will run fine-ish..

I guess I´ll go for the CDI swap test and the pulse generator check. Can I do the PG check with a multimeter? any specs?
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:34 AM   #6231
valvecrusher OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orkodelamuerte View Post
I also left aside that plastic cap that goes mounted on the main jet, just in case.


Now, it will not jerk as before, but it still stumbles before I get past 5k revs.

and the pulse generator check. Can I do the PG check with a multimeter? any specs?

The plastic cap is a 'splash guard'.....basically when you are riding hard, that keeps a fuel supply 'pooled' around the main jet..



Still thinking that you must have a 'blocked airway'...
(where it's blocked, and with what, i don't know)
(mine also would slowly accelerate, decently...but when ripping open the throttle, it would buck, miss and jerk)

It's just TOO ODD that i blocked my airway(accidentally) and had the EXACT same symptoms...




PG check:
290Ω - 360Ω at 68°F(20°C)
use a multimeter



Did you open the airbox? take out the air filter? check behind it?
check in front of the carb inlet?




Did you replace the spark plug with a new one?


I replaced my original CR9-eh9 with a CR9-EhIX9...
runs WAY better...cleaner response, much better 'burn', improved throttle response..
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:11 PM   #6232
plibnik
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Replacing rear shock on AX-1

Hi everyone!

Has anyone replaced rear shocks on your AX/NXs with newly manufactured ones? I'm considering this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-NX250-...6e47f6&vxp=mtr

Also looking at this one: http://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/catalo...PartNo=M61015H , - they have both adjustable and non-adjustable versions.

I'm about 220 lbs (105 kg), and on my AX-1 there are stickers for tire pressure that specify "driver (65 kg) - 2 atm, driver+passenger (130 kg) -2,25 atm" or something like that. Suppose the rear suspension feels weak because I'm almost as heavy as Japanese 2-up :) - so thinking about getting a harder spring, and maybe even tuneable shock. (compression, rebound etc).

Any experience or ideas? I've read about adapting some other bikes' shocks, but I'd rather use a screw-in replacement than a saw- and hack- in :)

Thanks!

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Old 04-16-2013, 07:24 PM   #6233
hrothgarbike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orkodelamuerte View Post
So last weekend I tore the carb apart and reached the emulsion tube.. I have a super-tiny drill that I used very gently to clean the little holes.. not much too clean though... I also left aside that plastic cap that goes mounted on the main jet, just in case. Cleaned the rest a little bit, and mounted the carb again.

I must say I can feel an improvement on performance but it`s still not fixed. Now, it will not jerk as before, but it still stumbles before I get past 5k revs. Also noticed that it does it when I make a rapid acceleration, but If I go up in revs gently, it will run fine-ish..
So the better question is, did it look worn? Any place the needle can contact can and will wear. I don't remember what mine looked like exactly when I tore it out, but any ovaling of the main upper orifice will effectively change the taper of the needle at given points. I don't know much about the CDI on the NX but it seems to be fuel influenced to me rather than spark. The problem being mid throttle and specific RPM range is very carb specific. Again, I don't know the NX carba s well as others, but the needle taper, throttle cutaway, and the emulsion tube are directly responsible for mid throttle response. If you have done a thorough cleaning of all the little holes in the carb, it leaves only a few things. The emulsion tube needs to be examined with a magnifying glass quite often to see ovaling of the top orifice.

One other possibility of your stumble is the accelerator pump. Mine is a bit hyperactive or hypoactive. I am not sure but under a throttle whack it does not do as it should. It does work better under a hard roll on. The accelerator pump on the NX is crude with no good adjustments that I could find.

I wonder what air tube is open and active with a 1/3 or larger throttle opening? Again, I don't know the NX carb intimately. I cleaned mine super well, inspected all the jets, fixed the accelerator pump, and the needle and put her together. That fixed almost all my woes.
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Old 04-21-2013, 03:18 PM   #6234
allmotor
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will a street 130/90/17 fit the 17" xr on the NX250 rear arm?
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:34 PM   #6235
scrambler66
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130/80 17

Quote:
Originally Posted by allmotor View Post
will a street 130/90/17 fit the 17" xr on the NX250 rear arm?
I doubt it. I tried once a worn out 130/80 17, it just fit into the swingarm – if it had been new, there possibly would not have been enough space left between the knobbies and the swingarm. And the 130/90 17 has an even larger diameter ...

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Old 04-22-2013, 08:33 AM   #6236
valvecrusher OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allmotor View Post
will a street 130/90/17 fit the 17" xr on the NX250 rear arm?

Sorry, but it will not leave enough room for safe riding...

It will physically fit with barely millimeters to spare..



Not a good idea... $.02
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:32 AM   #6237
IamsaparoS
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New Windshield


IamsaparoS screwed with this post 06-05-2013 at 12:07 AM
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:34 AM   #6238
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Hi,Guys

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Old 04-22-2013, 05:17 PM   #6239
allmotor
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ok how about a 130/70/17..
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:42 PM   #6240
scrambler66
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130/70 17

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Originally Posted by allmotor View Post
ok how about a 130/70/17..


That’ll work

But the XR rim is way too narrow (2.15'') for a 130/70-17 – you need at least a 3.50'' rim. Here is an example of an NSR125 3.50-17 wheel with a 130/70-17 - fits quite well into the swing arm of my AX1 (which is the Japanese Version of the NX250)


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