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Old 05-16-2013, 05:59 PM   #6271
CoolMooseMan
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Eugene, OR
Oddometer: 2
My NX

This was my first trip out since I redid the bike. I bought it for $400 and put maybe another $200 into it to get her in good shape. I didn't take pictures during the rebuild stupidly, but here she is.
Rebuilt carb
Paint job
Rear rack that my brother welded up for me

Only one question for you all, towards the end of the trip of about 60 miles on dirt, she started to have a hiccup. It was pretty sporatic, sometimes while throttling up, sometimes not, but it felt like she was missing. I don't know how to describe it any better but hopefully someone out there can decipher and help!





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Old 05-17-2013, 01:27 AM   #6272
MadDoc
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Adjusting steering stem bearing

Hi everyone, anyone's got experience whether you can adjust the preload nut without removing the handlebar? Many thx
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Old 05-17-2013, 03:53 AM   #6273
larry31
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: New Hampshire
Oddometer: 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolMooseMan View Post
This was my first trip out since I redid the bike. I bought it for $400 and put maybe another $200 into it to get her in good shape. I didn't take pictures during the rebuild stupidly, but here she is.
Rebuilt carb
Paint job
Rear rack that my brother welded up for me

Only one question for you all, towards the end of the trip of about 60 miles on dirt, she started to have a hiccup. It was pretty sporatic, sometimes while throttling up, sometimes not, but it felt like she was missing. I don't know how to describe it any better but hopefully someone out there can decipher and help!

Very nice looking bike especially for the price.
Re: Hiccup… If the bikes been not run for a while, or stored with out proper fuel treatment, maybe a good carb. Cleaning is needed.
Also check air filter.

I had an NX that ran good, but would idle fast after coming to a stop. Cleaning the carb. Fixed it.
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:12 AM   #6274
Huck369
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Somerset, KY
Oddometer: 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolMooseMan View Post

Only one question for you all, towards the end of the trip of about 60 miles on dirt, she started to have a hiccup. It was pretty sporatic, sometimes while throttling up, sometimes not, but it felt like she was missing. I don't know how to describe it any better but hopefully someone out there can decipher and help!

Might need to adjust the valves if cleaning the carb doen't fix it (hope you installed a in-line fuel filter, if not, I'd recommend one)
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:43 AM   #6275
mp350
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The carb and are going round and round, took it off and ran a piece of wire down every hole I could find. Put it back on and now it will rev to red line with the choke half on, which I take to mean that it is not getting enough fuel. Gonna take it off have it boiled. Boy do I hate working on carbs.
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:05 AM   #6276
polarized
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrambler66 View Post
Hi, most boots are too long/wide but these fit perfectly http://www.ebay.com/itm/160919223797...887df5&vxp=mtr

They are a bit tight to assemble and you have to punch a few ventilation holes, but they are durable and they don't bleach.



Hey Scrambler, is it possible to get details on how you managed to fit that front fender with the stock headlight/fairing?

Did you have to install a longer cable for the speedo, and use spacers in between the triple clamp and the fender?
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:16 AM   #6277
mp350
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Took another stab at this carb, now it will only idle with choke half on and if I give it any throttle it dies. Sprayed some carb cleaner on the outside and it would rev up when I hit the nut for the throttle linkage near the top on choke side, so I take it that is my problem. Looked up parts diagram but found no O-ring or gasket it for it, is there another fix ?
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:50 PM   #6278
scrambler66
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Germany
Oddometer: 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by polarized View Post
Hey Scrambler, is it possible to get details on how you managed to fit that front fender with the stock headlight/fairing?

Sure ;-). The speedo cable is about 8cm longer and from a NX650. You need spacers depending on the type of front fender and brake line. With the original brake line, you need long spacer, that’s why I used a braided steel brake line. An XL350/600 front fender would then fit without spacers, however collides with the radiator guide. So with two spacer for the back pair of fender screws all fits perfectly.
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:04 PM   #6279
thirstybuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolMooseMan View Post
\
Looks great for $600!
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:37 AM   #6280
KURT LAIN
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Lanus, Argentina
Oddometer: 16
Soy nuevo y agradesco a este post.

Hola como están, tuve la suerte de comprar una honda nx 250 en pésimas condiciones, pero con mucho amor y tiempo logre ponerla en condiciones, pero todo gracias a encontrar esta pagina y todo este post sobre esta noble maquina, pude rearmarla y disfrutarla.
Estoy muy orgulloso de poder tener esta gran moto !!!
Un abrazo a la distancia !!! : Clap

así estaba cuando la compre !!!







Asi quedo casi terminada.





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Old 05-20-2013, 01:16 PM   #6281
Sambucas
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Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Oddometer: 58
Getting the whole mechanical seal out...?

Hi guys!

Here we are again with a hairy question.

Last week the mechanical seal on my waterpump started leaking heavily.

I took the mechanical seal out, at least most of it, that is the ceramic disc, the spring and the rubber. But the metal cup thingie is still in my engine and I don't know how to get it out.

The workshop manual tells me to takes out the whole waterpump shaft, but I really don't want to do that, because it needs special tools, which I don't have and I need new bearings, which I don't have (we are still traveling in Africa, Tanzania now and they just don't have these things here...). Also I am too afraid to damage my engine cover and/or the waterpump shaft itself.

Does anyone have experience with this and knows a good trick to get the remaining metal cup out, without too much trouble?

Many thanks in advance for any help! :)

Greetings from Sao Hill, Tanzania (apparently the biggest saw mill in East Africa!)
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:32 PM   #6282
valvecrusher OP
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Location: Dos Circlos
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ALERT:
someone PLEASE help Sambucas.



Sambucas
Can you supply a picture of 'what you have in front of you'?

sometimes a picture can explain 10000 words?








MP350:
those little carb jets are very delicate....if you've cleaned them with wire, you might have damaged the articulate surface(bell) of the opening(hole)


even the flow of fuel through the jet has a slight abrasive effect, thus making the 'spray pattern' of vaporized fuel uneven..
or even failing to atomize completely...





You know how water flowing over a rock eventually wears it down?
Well, fuel does the same thing to a fuel 'jet' inside the carb....after 10s of 1000s of miles(or k/m's)

there is a groove being worn into the jet, itself..


a cleaning won't restore atomization characters to a worn jet oriface...


That's why the service books say replace jets after xxx miles/km's...



I realized this fact after using a sandblaster one day, and a man came up and said, well, fuel does the same thing to carb jets after seeing the damage to the air/sand 'jet' inside the blast gun..




but this picture should help demonstrate the issue..






Sometimes, 'clean' isn't going to fix.....ahem..... -worn out-

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Old 05-21-2013, 07:34 AM   #6283
Sambucas
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Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Oddometer: 58
Hi valvecrusher, thanks for your help! :)

Sorry, I don't have a picture yet. Also the internet connection here i quite slow, so I don't know if I even can upload a picture...

But I got a bit further after talking to another motorbiker (Imre, a fantastic guy from Estonia, who put us up while we are trying to get the replacement seal).

It seems to be necessary to take the waterpump shaft out to take the metal cup of the mechanical seal out, but Imre said that it would not be too much of a drama if we heat the crankcase cover. Then the shaft and bearing should come out easily, with the metal cup.

Then we inspect the bearing, but new grease/oil on the bearing and install the shaft again with a new mechanical seal.

Does that sound OK?

Thanks in advance! :)

PS. I will try to put up a picture just now...
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Sambucas screwed with this post 05-31-2013 at 02:21 PM
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:38 AM   #6284
KURT LAIN
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Lanus, Argentina
Oddometer: 16
Hola Sambucas, mira yo acá en mi país le saque la bomba de agua porque perdía y se mezclaba el agua con el aceite, cuando la saque vi que estaba roto el sello, buscando y buscando al final encontré de un auto y se lo coloque.
El sello que utilice es el del MITSUBISHI SAPPORO y quedo barbaro.
Otras de las cosas que el hice a la bomba de agua es cambiarle el rodamiento que tiene, le saque el que trae de fabrica, le rellene el eje y le coloque dos rulemanes que son mas fáciles de conseguir con un separador y quedo muy bien.
Espero que te sirva mi comentario.
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:00 PM   #6285
Sambucas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambucas View Post

PS. I will try to put up a picture just now...
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