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Old 07-05-2013, 05:02 PM   #6376
larry31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petros600 View Post
The instrument panel background lights are burned on my nx250. Any idea from where i can order them or did anyone convert them to LED's?
I got some LED's for mine. Not very bright, and they quit working in about a year. I went to my local Honda dealer, and bought new bulbs from them.
So far, they are still working.

If you do get LED's, check polarity on them, and the sockets. Some may be non polarized, but the ones I got were only good if put in one way.
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:14 PM   #6377
CurtW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry31 View Post
I got some LED's for mine. Not very bright, and they quit working in about a year. I went to my local Honda dealer, and bought new bulbs from them.
So far, they are still working.

If you do get LED's, check polarity on them, and the sockets. Some may be non polarized, but the ones I got were only good if put in one way.
That's kinda the definition of a diode (the "D" in LED)
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:49 AM   #6378
Jacl-Kampuchea
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My NX has had a leaky expansion bottle for some time now - and I've repaired it but I think it's past further repair. It pisses coolant onto my leg and shoe when I drive it hard.

I was going to use a DRZ400 expansion tank I have in my shed, as it's a better design - but turned out to be too bulky to be fitted snugly anywhere.

There's a plastic bottle thing under the seat in front of the airbox that appears to have no function - does anybody know what it is supposed to be and if it could be modified to act as an expansion tank for my radiator?
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:28 AM   #6379
arrcrussell
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VRM-163 tire

Hey guys, just picked up an '89 NX250 in pretty decent shape - of course it needs tires! Looking around the net I found Vee Rubber's dual sport VRM-163 in the proper rear tire size. Anyone have any comments/compliments/criticism about this tire? Thanks!
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Old 07-08-2013, 07:16 PM   #6380
polarized
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacl-Kampuchea View Post
My NX has had a leaky expansion bottle for some time now - and I've repaired it but I think it's past further repair. It pisses coolant onto my leg and shoe when I drive it hard.

I was going to use a DRZ400 expansion tank I have in my shed, as it's a better design - but turned out to be too bulky to be fitted snugly anywhere.

There's a plastic bottle thing under the seat in front of the airbox that appears to have no function - does anybody know what it is supposed to be and if it could be modified to act as an expansion tank for my radiator?

I believe you are talking about the resonator for the air box.

I think it changes the sound of induction, not really sure though.
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:43 AM   #6381
muzcuk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarized View Post
I believe you are talking about the resonator for the air box.

I think it changes the sound of induction, not really sure though.
Yes, it somewhat reduces intake noise. It is not indispensible, but it would be hard to modify for an expansion tank as it is connected to the intake manifold. It would be a pain to seal and it would cause catastrophic failure (water in cylinder) if the seal ever fails.

I have ziptied a 50 ml flask to my radiator which acts as a halfway proper expansion tank. It regularly overflows, though, I guess something in the range of 100-200 ml would be better.

Also, running without an expansion tank is not out of question. First time water expands, some of it pours out, when it contracts, some of the radiator remains empty. But after all, when water expands again, it fills the radiator. I don't see the problem in this, unless most of the water is somehow removed from the system. A lot of KTMs run like this.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong?
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:22 AM   #6382
Jacl-Kampuchea
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Thanks for that.

I think the difference between my KTM EXC and my NX is that the EXC is designed to be able to tolerate being far hotter than the NX.

On that I use a baby bottle as an expansion tank, cause coolant is both expensive and smelly when vaporising on a hot engine.

The NX system, imo, is supposed to be somewhat pressurised, where the ktm is not.

I could use a baby bottle on the NX, but will probably hunt down a replacement bottle.
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:34 AM   #6383
muzcuk
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Pressurized? No. What kind of pressure would the puny expansion tank provide anyways?

Free of air? Maybe. I remember someone saying that the radiator is supposed to be bled of air.

Though I can't imagine how that would be a problem with the pump that far below the radiator.

What is wrong with the expanding-water-filling-the radiator argument? So long as all internal volume is filled with water, should it not perform the same?

When I open my radiator with a cold engine, water level is far below 'full'. As the engine heats up I see bubbles rising in my expansion tank, so I assume the water inside is expanding and displacing the air in the radiator. When really hot, bubbling stops, so I assume the radiator is now full with water.

What do you think is wrong with this picture? Is the cooling system really supposed to be air-free? And why?
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:59 AM   #6384
PTC
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Wink

Quote:
Originally Posted by muzcuk View Post
Pressurized? No. What kind of pressure would the puny expansion tank provide anyways?

Free of air? Maybe. I remember someone saying that the radiator is supposed to be bled of air.

Though I can't imagine how that would be a problem with the pump that far below the radiator.

What is wrong with the expanding-water-filling-the radiator argument? So long as all internal volume is filled with water, should it not perform the same?

When I open my radiator with a cold engine, water level is far below 'full'. As the engine heats up I see bubbles rising in my expansion tank, so I assume the water inside is expanding and displacing the air in the radiator. When really hot, bubbling stops, so I assume the radiator is now full with water.

What do you think is wrong with this picture? Is the cooling system really supposed to be air-free? And why?
Pressurized yes at about 11 psi. When the coolant reaches the caps pressure,
Which is 1.1 bar the. The caps spring/seal moves up and the coolant fills the
Overflow resivour . As the engine cools the coolant is pulled from the resivour
Back Into the radiator. Therefore eliminating the need for topping off the coolant that would be lost without a resivour . A proper system should have no air in it.
Air will get way hotter than the coolant ever would and it will increase the systems pressure by being Compressed. (You can't compress water/coolant)
Air can also cause a system bind by getting stuck and not allowing the coolant to
Circulate. By pressurizing the system the coolant also is more resistant to heat.
I always fill very slowly with the front of the machine uphill. Once "full"
Then run the bike and squeeze both hoses alternating squeezes (to remove a y air)and top off as needed. Go for a good ride and check the resivour and add to the res. to the mark. Use distilled water only as it does not have the minerals found in tap water. The minerals will greatly decrease the cooling ability and damage your pump and radiator . So pressure... Yes. Air no.

PTC screwed with this post 07-09-2013 at 11:02 AM Reason: Fanboy werd
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:00 PM   #6385
Jacl-Kampuchea
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Good post PTC, thank you.

muzcuk - firstly, I don't put water in my bike. I fill it with coolant.

Secondly, if it overflows; the job of the expansion tank is to catch said overflow/ and not piss it onto my clothes. I've now got close to 60'000km on my daily NX, and this is a new problem.

It is a pressurized system, but thank you for the info on the resonance thingy.

Basically, imu, a pressurised system will overflow to the expansion bottle - but on cooling will cause the lost fluid to be drawn back to the rad/cooling system through a vacum effect.Essentially this removes the hassle of constantly monitoring coolant levels.

And I live in the tropics and commute in absolutely killer heat, so this is more important to me than if I were living in a colder country.

Jacl-Kampuchea screwed with this post 07-09-2013 at 12:09 PM
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:30 AM   #6386
muzcuk
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Thanks for the info. So I will upgrade to a decent reservoir, baby bottle sounds good. Its easier to ziptie shit on when you don't have any fairings to get in the way. :)

By the way I use distilled water. Coolant is preferable for colder temps where there is risk of frost, afaik, but what do I know.. But anyways, here is a true story for you, happened to me today :

You rebuild a nx, tune the carb, starts instantly, runs perfectly.
A few months later suddenly you start having trouble starting it.
When it starts it runs fine.
No, its not the CDI.
You change the oil, nothing suspicious.
One day when cranking you realize it spits a little water from the exhaust just before starting.
There is also some fluid seeping from the lower cylinder seal. Probably water.
Add my weird coolant habits to this, what do you get?

What I want to understand is this: If it is the lower seal (transmission-cylinder interface), I should have found water in the oil. If it is the upper seal (cylinder head-cylinder interface), why is the stuff seeping out from below..? And does this have anything to do with the air in my cooling system?

I will outright confess that I re-used the (metallic) head gasket but it was only because the one I ordered from ebay was like 2 mm thick and made of something entirely unlike the original.

Should probably get in there and replace both, right? Anything else to try before that?

By the way, Kampuchea, I saw your videos before. The traffic looks somewhat like İstanbul, so I sorta know what you feel riding through under the sun. Wish I had a gopro to show you around. Cheers.
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:36 AM   #6387
Local Machine
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If any of you guys wanna remove the expansion coolant tank you'll hafta go "waterless".
Evans produces a waterless coolant fluid, silicone based, that dont boil like water and most important, it dont expand like water does.
Its not cheap and the whole water circuit must be free of any water or moisture beforehand but it works some pretty serious magic.
Once you pour it inside the radiator, it lasts a lifetime
Code:
http://www.evanscooling.com/products/coolants/
http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/
Thats what all them monster drag racer vehicles use nowadays.
These guys dont even bother to fit any kind of radiators on there rocket ships.
Pretty xpensive tho, buck a gallon plus the cost of the de-humidifier fluid.

Now as far as the lower weepin cylinder gasket, chances are that the four cylinder bolts need re-toqueing (thats the best case scenario of course)
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:12 AM   #6388
muzcuk
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Man, how I wish I could buy stuff like that in Turkey. You are worried about 50-bucks-a-gallon for coolant? Enter Turkey where gasoline costs $8 per gallon and cheapest engine oil is $15 per liter (~$60 per gallon). Add minimum wage of $500/month for flavor and cherish your first world privileges.

As for re-doing the cylinder bolts, as far as I remember 2 of them were directly under the cams, so that would require removing the cams and re-doing the cam chain. If I am going that deep I might as well do the gaskets, I guess.

Think I can remove the cylinder with the engine on the frame?

muzcuk screwed with this post 07-10-2013 at 03:18 AM
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:42 AM   #6389
Jacl-Kampuchea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzcuk View Post

Think I can remove the cylinder with the engine on the frame?
Yes, absolutely.

Did valves and camchain on mine last December - and pulled the cylinder and piston for inspection at the same time with the engine in and the bike on a stand.
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:45 AM   #6390
muzcuk
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Hey guys,

Turns out servicehonda asks $87 shipping for $25 gaskets. I cannot source them locally neither.

Any volunteers to help me out here? Just get them from wherever, stick them in a bubble envelope and send them to me USPS priority, no tracking. Should cost around $10. I will send you the money through paypal and throw in an extra $10 for your inconvenience. PM me if you are interested.

Part numbers 12251-KW3-003 and 12191-KBK-611 , costs $18 and $5 from servicehonda.

I will try to open her up and re-torque the cylinder bolts this weekend, see if it helps. I am worried that the water will erode the cylinder while I am waiting for the gaskets. Bike actually runs fine after you get it to start. This is my daily commuter.
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