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Old 11-19-2013, 10:21 AM   #6526
StefanDB
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Location: Bucharest
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Bash plate and brake pedal

Hey guys,

Do you know of any spare bash plate and maybe a brake pedal for a '95 NX250? I have a hard time trying to find one for the ol' girl, since she had a less than pleasant incident on the road. Thanks in advance!
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:32 AM   #6527
jellycow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valvecrusher View Post
I love the red ones MOST of all...
we never got red in the USA.

For a cleaner 'rear fender' section, i trimmed the 'tag hanger' (for the license tag) so that only the two UPPER holes remain...
I like the red as well, the first NX250 I had was white with blue, not to bad eighter. But the first NX650 was red as is the current 250, really liked the color back then.
I'll look into the rear fender, not that found of cutting up the OEM plastics but no budget so I guess I'll stick to OEm for now. I do have an old Acerbis high fender which might find its way onto the 250.

Anybody ever swapped wheels between NX250 and NX650? Judgeing by the parts fichs it might be possible, making the 250 more dirt capable and the 650 more supermoto-alike. An upgrade for both I think. The 650 I'm picking up next week does have drum at the rear end so it might fit. If nobody knows I'll just have to give it a go and find out
About the NX650: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...52960&page=219 and a bot more 1 page back
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:20 PM   #6528
scrambler66
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NX250 big wheel swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by jellycow View Post
Anybody ever swapped wheels between NX250 and NX650?
more than once (but NX250 front wheels won`t fit the NX650 - brake diameter is different) take a look at this http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....postcount=5312 and this (its in German, though) http://89232.forumromanum.com/member...SER=user_89232

This specimen below has a NX650 US back wheel and a XL600R front wheel.

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Old 11-21-2013, 04:49 AM   #6529
Jacl-Kampuchea
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I have an electrical problem on my NX.

It began a few weeks ago where, after removing my battery to boost another bike, and re-installing it the neutral light would be lit - but when I pushed the starter button nothing happened and the bike lost electricity/power.

I found that one of my terminal leads
(negative) was a bit loose and tightened that up.

Then I had a weirder issue where I would push the start button and just nothing would happen, no loss of power. But flicking my headlights on and off I would then be able to start the bike first time.

For a week, this went on and then yesterday the bike just ran out of electricity while riding to work. I pushed it a few blocks and borrowed a few spanners and a screwdriver from somebody to troubleshoot the issue. Checked all fuses, block connectors etc - nada, no power.

Then I got an extremely faint neutral light, but, no ignition, so I bumpstarted it and drove to work. The indicators wouldn't work, the horn didn't work and the headlamps wouldn't work - but strangely with the headlamp switch on, the neutral light grew stronger.

I run a dual HID kit on the lights, one lamp for high beam and one for low. I am suspicious that my low beam one is placing a massive drain on my bikes electrical as it is failing.

Today I pulled all the plastics, disconnected the HID ballasts, and the wires I have from the ballasts to my battery (fused and isolated) and tried to get the bike running - but it would start and not run.

Negative battery terminal got HOT.

Ideas?
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:38 AM   #6530
GA2wheel
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NX 250 facelift

Just finished the cosmetic restoration on a 88 nx250
plastics not absolutly perfect but OEM and repaired (figberglass)
Just waiting on "Honda" decals
darker than stock had Evinrude mid 90's metallic blue left over from another project
motor exellent contidion 21K
carbon fiber look seat cover
and unfortunatly can't keep have 3 '85 cr125 projects waiting
Up for sale....

Before:


After:
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:59 AM   #6531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacl-Kampuchea View Post
I have an electrical problem on my NX.

It began a few weeks ago where, after removing my battery to boost another bike, and re-installing it the neutral light would be lit - but when I pushed the starter button nothing happened and the bike lost electricity/power.

I found that one of my terminal leads
(negative) was a bit loose and tightened that up.

Then I had a weirder issue where I would push the start button and just nothing would happen, no loss of power. But flicking my headlights on and off I would then be able to start the bike first time.

For a week, this went on and then yesterday the bike just ran out of electricity while riding to work. I pushed it a few blocks and borrowed a few spanners and a screwdriver from somebody to troubleshoot the issue. Checked all fuses, block connectors etc - nada, no power.

Then I got an extremely faint neutral light, but, no ignition, so I bumpstarted it and drove to work. The indicators wouldn't work, the horn didn't work and the headlamps wouldn't work - but strangely with the headlamp switch on, the neutral light grew stronger.

I run a dual HID kit on the lights, one lamp for high beam and one for low. I am suspicious that my low beam one is placing a massive drain on my bikes electrical as it is failing.

Today I pulled all the plastics, disconnected the HID ballasts, and the wires I have from the ballasts to my battery (fused and isolated) and tried to get the bike running - but it would start and not run.

Negative battery terminal got HOT.

Ideas?
First check for me would be battery polarity. Possible that the connections were crossed during the jump start? Disco battery and check that the positive is actually positive. After that I'd look at the harness from the handle bar switches, then test the switches themselves. My clutch side harness had a few wires worn through right under the ignition switch. Heat means resistance. Something isn't connected right or possibly a broken/corroded wire. Look for green or white powdery connections and clean and repair. Look for black burnt connections (fretting) and clean and tighten. If all looks good, connect battery and check the frame and motor for positive current with a meter. That means something electrical(hot/positive) is being grounded! Find the Issue before you run it because a hot ground will destroy everything electrical
Real fast and cause a fire. Good luck my friend
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:59 AM   #6532
Jacl-Kampuchea
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I will check polarity in the morn, but I don't thing that I am that dumb. However I will check. It's pushing 3am in this part of the world and I just closed my business for the night and have to drive the wifes semi-auto Suzuki home, which sucks. . .

I have an idea it's something not grounding - as we are just out of monsoon season here and my bike has probably been driven through two feet floods for more than 80km over the last six months.

Thanks a lot for the reply,

Jacl.
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Old 11-22-2013, 03:15 AM   #6533
Sagi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valvecrusher View Post
Hi

It will be WAY easier to remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper onto the wheel,
remove the caliper, pull the slotted screw/ pin, and then remove the pads..

You must remove the slotted screw, and also, crack the bleeder screw to push the pistons back into the caliper
AFTER
examining the caliper piston seals for tears or leaks.
If the pistons are REALLY dirty/muddy,
clean them SPOTLESS, do this FIRST before pushing the pistons back in..


Now, check the pad pin for gouging, a burr, or anything that would prevent smooth movement back and forth in ANY way..


Put the new pads on, pin back in, and then bolt the caliper back on..

Bleed the brakes, and you should be good to go...



Probably forgot something obvious, it's late, and i'm pretty tired..
Quote:
Originally Posted by RollingJ View Post
It's a heck of a lot easier to push the piston back into the caliper using one of the old pads and a 6" c-clamp. There is no reason to crack the bleeder and then bleed the brakes, it just adds another element. You don't even have to open the cap on the master cylinder unless you added fluid as the old brakes wore. If you did, you will make a mess when you press the piston into the caliper unless you watch the fluid level and draw some out before it overflows.

I've been doing pad changes this way for 20 years on all kinds of cars and bikes.


Thank you guys, I succeeded after initially having the wrong pads, now my brake works again, the old pads were worn down completely so it was high time to change them
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:18 AM   #6534
valvecrusher OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valvecrusher View Post
does anyone have a spare shift shaft(internal) that they might spare?

Mine's is pretty worn, 44k miles...
It's looking like i'm going to have to split the cases....that being said..



The good news is that when i split the cases, i'll take a bajilizilion photos..


IS the shift shaft the same as an RFVC XR250R?

posted about a year or so back about stripping the splines of my '89s shift shaft..


One 'band-aid' fix after another, it's finally almost time to replace the shift shaft..( I really didn't want to split the NX engine)



for those of us who have already tried to source one 'for parts'....
Let me allay your worry...




The 1984-85 XR250R, XR200R, the 84-87 XL250R use the EXACT same shift shaft as the NX250...


NOW, that being said...

the 1986-1995 XR250R use a different external length shift shaft...but it WILL fit perfectly, on the interior

It WILL protrude from the engine case about 1 inch farther than the OEM NX shaft. The internal dimensions ARE the SAME, so they are interchangable..


THEN you can use a shifter with a different bend...if you desire..





I already knew the 2 XR/XLr shafts would interchange from splitting my old '87 XL250R....unable to find a cheap replacement(quickly), i looked on the shelf for one of the 2 carb XRr shafts...and BOOM!

exactly the same..

but then i looked a little more, and i saw a spare single carb(86-95) shaft from a motor already split, and decided i wanted the extra length so i could use the 86-95 shift LEVER as well..(size 12 feet, needed the room)










.Now, i'm at 58,000 miles, and it's almost finally time to dis-assemble/replace the shift shaft...unless i get lucky, and fix it for another year with shims, pins, nuts and possibly a weld..

nah, just kidding, no welding even though that does work...

I'm almost ready to replace clutch discs, the water pump seal/bearings, the transmission bearings, the countershaft seal, shift shaft seal... etc..
(since i am going to be deep into the motor anyways, i only want to do it once...)


I've been waiting so that i have a spare XR transmission lying nearby when i pull the NX transmission...
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:32 AM   #6535
valvecrusher OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StefanDB View Post
Hey guys,

Do you know of any spare bash plate and maybe a brake pedal for a '95 NX250?
you can use a metal skid plate from any other bike if you drill two holes in the skid plate for the OEM Honda front bungs..

I recommend finding a 'big bike' DR650, XR650L for a metal plate, cause the NX2 has a VERY wide engine for a little bike..

I'm using a aluminum KLR250 plate, but i'm not covered from bottom impacts..
the plate doesn't go back far enough..

The XL250R plate went back far enough, but no side 'wings' for protection of alternator/clutch protrusions (highway rocks)..




Good luck, and tell us how you end up working it out..
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Old 11-23-2013, 10:16 PM   #6536
scrambler66
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r134 fighting red

Quote:
Originally Posted by scrambler66 View Post

I was asked about the red color of the 1988-1989 European versions. The plastic is also white like the blue version. The Honda color code is R134 fighting red. You can buy it at http://www.colorrite.com/product/hon...g-red-1335.cfm


But it’s extremely expensive. It’s probably cheaper to fetch an original colored part (e.g. the XR650R got the same color code) and get the color tempered by your local varnisher.
The front fender is from a XL600R – way better quality than after-market parts and it fits perfect.
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My NX250/AX-1/XL250 Degree homepage
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:23 PM   #6537
Fortunate Son
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Selling my old NX250

I'm selling my old NX250 because I bought a very clean, low mileage NX I found on this site. The new one looks good, but I'm afraid I'm going to have to paint it now that I saw scramble66"s RED one. Very sharp.

My old one has a clean PA title
15K + miles (speedo and tach not working)
Starts well and runs strong
Plastic parts all there, but need work
$1300

http://www.shutterfly.com/lightbox/v...fd7207a7b1fe91

I also listed it in the flea market section.
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:26 PM   #6538
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Thanks

And thanks to scrambler66 for the red paint and fender info.
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:05 PM   #6539
IndyRC
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New NX250 owner

So last month I finally picked up an 89 NX250 after wanting one since they first came out. I purchased ADVCoot's bike and I'm loving it. I don't know why I didn't buy one sooner. They are so neat. I took her out riding around today and hit some light trails on it. It's a super fun little trail bike, however that rear shock sure is soft. It also idles at close to 4K RPM when it's warmed up.

Here she is loaded up for the journey to it's new home:


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Old 12-02-2013, 01:19 PM   #6540
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^^^^ I thought about buying that one, just for the rack set up; and then selling mine.

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