![]() |
10-02-2008, 08:49 AM
|
#811 |
|
quarantined
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Westsideistan
Oddometer: 2,747
|
Bucksport, that really blows man, but don't be worried
the parts that broke are easily replacable, good thing no plastics or god forbid something more important broke. The headlight stay is a weak part of the bike and tends to loosen up and get crooked even without crashing. Mine was really weak and bent out of shape cuz my bike was crashed a few times, so it would bounce harshly and bang against my hadle bars every time I would hit a big hole. I just bent it back a little and instaled the ingenious bracket reinforcment a-la-Jeff (man I am telling you, the man has all the good ideas) It is a super simple mod, that takes very little time and will go a long way in reinforcing your headlight stay and keep it from flopping arround. Read back through the treads and if you cant find it let me know and I will post the pics of mine.
__________________
my nx250 project pics my mini ride reports "parts made of unobtanium" + momento mori + |
|
|
10-02-2008, 08:58 AM
|
#812 |
|
TAT survivor
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Crestwood, Kentucky
Oddometer: 4,441
|
Thanks Arth!
Here is all my mods in a much easier to read thread... http://www.transalp.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=1952
__________________
1998 RMX 250 singletrack bike 96 XR600 adventure bike KY state Vet A offroad champion TAT and TWVT survivor |
|
|
10-02-2008, 09:26 AM
|
#813 | |
|
Street Dog
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Portland, Maine
Oddometer: 254
|
Quote:
And thanks for the link Jeff. |
|
|
|
10-02-2008, 09:32 AM
|
#814 | |
|
tractus pro pensio™
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Dos Circlos
Oddometer: 1,557
|
Quote:
Basically, when you remove the headlight cowl...you will see your headlight suspended by ,ummmm two? different brackets... One holds the entire cluster assembly to the gooseneck(steering neck), the other is a 'W' shape that actually holds the reflector, lens, bulb, the wiring for the signals, etc.... I believe the 'W' is the one causing your headlight to 'sit back' in the cowl... Grab both sides of the 'W' and then pull away from the bike...pull towards your chest... It's like 10mm tool steel or something, and it wasn't easy to move...ok, I'll say it...it's darn hard to move! But short of removing the entire assembly, this is the easiest way to bend it out enough to snap in your headlight cowl bung/tabs into those front grommets... |
|
|
|
10-02-2008, 09:40 AM
|
#815 | |
|
My First Gold Chain
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Sebring Ohio
Oddometer: 297
|
Engine Paint
Quote:
|
|
|
|
10-02-2008, 10:59 AM
|
#816 |
|
quarantined
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Westsideistan
Oddometer: 2,747
|
oh yeah Mobbs
make sure you are using a high temperature heat resistant paint as HondaScoot has said. This is available in cans, but regular can spraypaint will not work as they are usually latex based and will crack, peal and burn in high heat. Here is a link to the brand I used on my exhaust I opted for a matt finish, but there are other options such as gloss and semi gloss. http://www.vhtpaint.com - oh look they are redesigning the website the other high quality option is this http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html They basically have anything you would need paint wise. I dont know if these are available in the philipines but I am sure you can find a dealer or simply just order online. let me know if you need more help HondaScoot - what brand did you use for your yamaha?
__________________
my nx250 project pics my mini ride reports "parts made of unobtanium" + momento mori + |
|
|
10-02-2008, 11:47 AM
|
#817 |
|
tractus pro pensio™
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Dos Circlos
Oddometer: 1,557
|
The 500 degree high temp paint for engines should suffice in this application, i think ArthDuro brought the link(s) above..
The 1500 very high temp paint is matte, and is hard to get a good coverage coat...whereas the 500 degree is alot easier to cover the metal.. Also, the 500 degree should be fine for your engines cylinder head, it's watercooled, ya know... NO PRIMER! I've seen high temp primer, and i've never seen it last for a given duration of time...not only that ![]() some folks say that primer(or thick regular auto paint from a can) won't let the heat radiate out... more of an issue on like an XR(aircooled) than say your XL degree(water)..but every little bit matters, when it comes to retaining (unwanted) heat.. But the high temp engine paint sticks to a properly prepared(cleaned, degreased, and paint adhesion promoted) engine cylinder head just fine, without any primer....(which doesn't stick well) |
|
|
10-02-2008, 12:57 PM
|
#818 |
|
Crestone
Joined: Dec 2007
Oddometer: 62
|
Order in
Shock order is in.
|
|
|
10-02-2008, 01:17 PM
|
#819 |
|
Street Dog
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Portland, Maine
Oddometer: 254
|
So I went out in between rain showers yesterday, just to ride and make sure nothing was wrong. A friend had told me to check out the old city dump, and I had been there before, but only when it was nice and dry.It's out behind a fenced in off-leash dog park, so quite often there are people out walking with their dogs running around, but not so much during the week, in the mud and rain.
While she was still clean: ![]() Fresh dirt and freshly graded, too: ![]() ![]() As I was taking these pictures, I noticed a trail, and a bridge that I hadn't seen before: ![]() So I went to check it out, and wondered, is this wide enough for the bike? ![]() ![]() Well, it was, with about an inch or two on each side, and it led to this sloppiness: ![]() Narrow muddy trails everywhere: ![]() ![]() And of course in the mud, these come in handy, and are plentiful around this area: ![]() More mud ![]() A nice little bridge, but it was a bit too high to ride onto ![]() ![]() So I made myself a ramp, which cracked when I was almost up, but it still did the trick ![]() Finally on the bridge, tires and boots caked in mud ![]() And one last shot in the woods: ![]() It was a good day, lots of fun, and I learned some stuff, too. Like exposed roots are slippery, especially when they're diagonal on a downhill slope (yeah, I dropped it in the mud...), and that the trailwings really are crap in the mud. |
|
|
10-02-2008, 01:23 PM
|
#820 | |
|
Street Dog
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Portland, Maine
Oddometer: 254
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
10-02-2008, 02:08 PM
|
#821 | |
|
Exposed Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: RockyMountains
Oddometer: 1,439
|
Quote:
Thanks for the work on this Jeff. I will be placing my order tomorrow. Bump in the thread for those not seeing this post. I almost missed it. Assfault
__________________
* Assfault, Ass-Fault, Ms Ass, thier neighbors or friends, are not responsible for any incidents, accidents, or accusations, that might result from you using this forum in the pursuit of adventure greatness. Avoid taking ADV before bed time. Do not use if you experince faintness, dizzniess, inversness, difficulty urinating or an erection lasting longer than 4 hours. Thank you* |
|
|
|
10-02-2008, 03:20 PM
|
#822 | |
|
My First Gold Chain
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Sebring Ohio
Oddometer: 297
|
High Temp Paint
Quote:
Header: VHT 1300-2000 deg. - silica ceramic "SP-102" I am cheap and used the 500 deg. High Gloss Paint (left over) on my NX250 header after my exhaust mods this summer. The pipe looked great even after heat cycling; however, after about 20 miles of test runs while dialing in the carb., the first 6" just turned to carbon and blew off in the wind. So off comes the pipe to be completly wire wheeled to bare metal, wiped with Prep-All, and repainted with VHT. |
|
|
|
10-02-2008, 05:22 PM
|
#823 |
|
89' NX 250; 2006 VTX 1300
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Arkansas
Oddometer: 14
|
cowl repair
Does anyone have a good way to 'repair' the tabs that interlock the cowls together?
VC, when I bought my NX, the metal braces that connect the headlight fairing to the side fairing were broken off. I found some aluminum and fashioned (cut, bent and drilled) a couple of braces. I drilled and then pop riveted the new braces to the headlight fairing. Then I placed a rubber insert in the holes on the fiberglass/factory brace of the side fairing and used a tight fitting screw. It aint pretty on the inside, but works well. The only thing you see on the outside are the two poprivets on each side I would post pics, but the bike is at the Honda shop for some much needed TLC. |
|
|
10-02-2008, 05:37 PM
|
#824 |
|
My First Gold Chain
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Sebring Ohio
Oddometer: 297
|
Bucksport
Glad to see your bike is good to go!
A good headlight to cowling fit is required for seamless air flow around the bike. It takes time, patience, and multiple test fits. I know because I low-sided my NX250 into the woods at 70+ mph chasing a Leader Bike through the twisties. He had Tires & Sense - I had Pin It and Hold On I broke off one mirror and bent EVERYTHING ELSE! I rode it 150 miles home that day. What a great bike! |
|
|
10-03-2008, 06:38 AM
|
#825 |
|
Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2008
Oddometer: 58
|
Replacing Chain and Sprockets
Hello all,
Finding this thread is reassuring. I have a 89 NX 250, pearl and blue, 22k. I would like to replace the chain and sprockets but cannot find instructions for how to do that in the online service manual: http://www.ratikk.narod.ru/mybike/ax1/manual.htm Am I just not seeing it in the manual? Has anyone here prepared step-by-step instructions for replacing chain and sprockets on the NX 250? Or could anyone please refer me to such instructions posted on the web? Thank you and have a good weekend. alpinegroove screwed with this post 10-03-2008 at 06:45 AM |
|
|
![]() |
| Share |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
|
|