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Old 10-16-2008, 10:08 PM   #991
alpinegroove
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My bike was up in the air on the sidewalk for a couple of days until I installed the wheels with the new TW tires this morning.
Camera is dying but you can still get a sense.

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Old 10-16-2008, 10:47 PM   #992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racingwoody
I am also looking for a tank that will work on my bike that will accept different more readily available plastics. CS do you know which tanks work exactly and what years are a direct replacement. Any of them plastic tanks?
if I recall are you going for more of a supermoto look?
cuz I'm definitely going in that direction.
I've gotten most of the body work done, I'll be getting some tires soon too.
unfortunately I don't have the money for a 17 front...
but I got a 17 rear so I'm thinking it'll be close enough. I'll have to see.
post pics when I'm done
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Old 10-17-2008, 12:55 AM   #993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TheQuadShop
They would not be a direct bolt on item, it would take custom fabrication for mounts.
Yup Jeff is right there are no bolt on replacement and if there is ???? a little modification might be needed.

Check this AX-1 much similar to NX, cowls removed, but still makes a decent looking tank shroud.


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Old 10-17-2008, 01:25 AM   #994
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Here is the organic 17" wheel writeup





Why a 17" wheel?

Better tire selection, cheaper tires,
taller gearing for highway speeds, touring
17" DOT rear and 19" DOT front tires are nearly same size diameter
for you SM junkies


better economy at any speed..

Becomes more nimble handling on road..

Falls into turns more like a street tourer

Raises overall gearing
and it slightly spreads out the overall ratio spread inside the tranny to get rid of the annoying tightness of the gearbox....

and slows down the rev's at 45, to 55....
a much more relaxed engine

(with stock gearing)

Why not?

It raises the rear of the bike just a small amount, shorter riders who think seat height is the best thing about NX250 will be tippy toed, or worse

Handling gets a little "quick" in the rear exiting turns in the dirt

6th gear not effective until highway speed or flatlands...
(with stock 13/41)

Tire close to swingarm crossbrace





Don't forget, if you install the 17" wheel swap, use new wheel bearings first

17" wheel XL 250R XL 350R


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Old 10-17-2008, 01:26 AM   #995
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I mean, who likes the number 17 anyways?


looking ahead, here are your parts to keep track of...
try to see this in your mind

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I prefer to ride, and when i do, it's 'un Equi


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Old 10-17-2008, 01:27 AM   #996
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The first thing you do is find yourself a 17" rear Honda XL250R or XL350R rim from 1984-1987.


this one came with axle, axle adjusters, the brake drum included..
notice the hub is black
umm, supposed to be black...
I should have said, notice the brake hub is black, but the wheel hub is Central USA mud red.


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Old 10-17-2008, 01:30 AM   #997
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This rim looks clean inside, and there isn't rust or any burrs

And most important, I already had new wheel bearings to install, this is the best time to do it...your bike is still all together and rideable, take your time and put in new bearings



The black dot is a rubber plug inside the rim


The plug projects as you air up the tire...A quick glance at the plug will tell you if you have air in your tire when you get ready to ride...
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Old 10-17-2008, 01:35 AM   #998
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Then find yourself an NX250 with a slick 16" rear..
oh looky
there is one, it even has a TrailWing on it


You can see the 17 mm hex cap flange head bolt(axle bolt) on the right side of the swingarm,
also the brake arm hanging down, it's straight( no bend)
and the 12mm axle adjusting nut on the right rear of the swingarm tube

Notice the NX is supported on a dedicated motorcycle type jack rated at 1500lbs
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Old 10-17-2008, 01:38 AM   #999
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Here is the 17mm bolt head from the right side..
notice the brake arm actuator rod running under the swingarm to get to the brake cam arm.

You must remove the hex nut that holds this rod to the brake cam arm..

There are two 12mm hex nuts holding each adjuster plate onto the rear section of the swingarm at the very back end on each side.




And on the left side, the 24mm hex nut with lockwasher..
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Old 10-17-2008, 01:44 AM   #1000
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Let the brake arm dangle after removing it from the brake drum cam arm.


*
This is why.. You are going to flip this rod over 180 degrees so that it runs above the swingarm
*this is optional*Do so at your own risk*Not required when changing from 16" to 17" wheel*Merely my stupid preference to keep from snagging a root or something*
It requires switching this from this


to this!
(pic missing)

Then after loosening the 24mm nut, both 12mm axle adjusting nuts, and removing the brake actuating rod from the brake cam arm on the brake hub

push the wheel foward, and remove the chain from the rear wheel, it isn't necessary to 'break' the chain master link...just slip it off the rear sprocket when you have enough room...if you have enough room

Lift up on the rear wheel, wiggle it while you slip out the axle(axle bolt)

Then it should pull free



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Honda NX250??
I prefer to ride, and when i do, it's 'un Equi


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Old 10-17-2008, 01:52 AM   #1001
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OK, aside from the wheel/rim, and axle...you will have these parts..
The left is brake shoes, the middle is the XL brake drum, and the right is the cush drive...

what's a cush drive? i'm glad you asked..
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Old 10-17-2008, 01:57 AM   #1002
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The cush drive is a
cushioned final driven flange for the rear wheel

It helps lower the stress caused by a thumper's power spike...

Rubber cushioned splines between both halves of a two piece wheel hub..

Now, here it gets tricky...

The XL cush drive, and the NX cush drive are different offsets!!!

You must use your original NX cush hub, with the XL wheel to properly align your rear sprocket/tire/rim.
This is the only requirement to this whole modification...

Use the NX cush drive, and the XL rim...

(I tried to include as many photos as I could to show the slight, but actual, difference)

The grey is the NX offset, the black is the XL250R





You MUST use the NX cush drive for this mod to work!!
No exceptions!

ALSO, very important, you must install your new bearing into the cush drive, just like you did two bearings for the actual wheel hub..
for a total of three bearings in the rear wheel assembly
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Old 10-17-2008, 02:02 AM   #1003
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This is the rear 17" XL250R rim, with a new tire, new tube, the XL brake drum(since the brake shoes were married to this hub, already, and it had the 'bent' brake cam arm)

You use all your original parts if you need to, except for the XL cush drive...

OK,
I'm assuming you bought a sweet new 17" tire for this swap, and a new tube to boot..

In my case, a CS858 4.60 x 17
sticky...mmmmm

Notice the 'gray' NX cush drive here, with the 'black' XL hub rim..
That's the right way!




Jeff was right again, see how far back my adjuster(axle bolt) is back in the top pic, and i still only got this much clearance with my new knobs....
maybe 5/8 inch, if that much

That's after setting my old 19k chain to the 'proper' slack...
I'll show a photo of the now worn 17" wheel with a new chain later.

So, new tire, old chain...little clearance
old tire, new chain...hmmm gonna be close
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Old 10-17-2008, 02:04 AM   #1004
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Now, it's time to flip this thing over...

You might have to 'bend' your brake rod just a bit to get it right...

Jeff made another good point, the XL cam arm is bent, while the NX cam arm is straight..
(photo coming soon)
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Old 10-17-2008, 02:18 AM   #1005
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OK,
The brake drum is in the wheel, the wheel is on the swingarm tab, with the axle installed through the XL wheel, and the NX cush drive..

The brake rod actuator arm is on, the axle adjusters are set, the chain is back on.



It should line up perfect.
Make sure you have no parts left over.



Tighten down the 24mm hex nut, and rock on




This explanation will flesh a bit, as i recover the missing photos, check my spelling, and find the 'holes' in it...

It will shake itself out in the next day or two...and be more explaining, and illustrating..


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
OR check out Jeff's NX250 with the rear wheel swap,
over on transalp.org here ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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