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Old 04-11-2008, 02:02 PM   #46
HellSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disquisitive Dave
Any suggestions on "industrial bearing supply" houses to use? How do you talk to these people? Is there some way to translate motorcycle part numbers to their part numbers?

Bearings are usually spec'd by a 4-digit code. Read the number stamped into the race. Other options include 1 seal, 2 seal, and none. Most bearings come with both seals. If you don't want them, they can be easily pried out.

Sometimes the mfgr fiche will indicate bearing size. KTM does. An example would be the XC front bearings, listed as "GR.BALL BEAR.6906 DDU2CG23S6NM ". Just tell the supply place you want some 6906 bearings with double seal.

Google to find out what the dimensions actually are.

Seals are spec'd by OD, ID, and thickness.
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:05 AM   #47
barnyard
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Huh, I actually have something to contribute....

I lube all my cables with a lube from the John Deere dealership. It's a spray on graphite lube that goes on wet and the alcohol evaporates and leaves dry graphite.

I do not safety wire my grips. I seem to be in a minority. Knock on wood, mine have never moved.

Another grip tip, when you find a grip you like, buy a bunch. The dealer may not stock them or they may be discontinued next year. (I prefer soft, full diamond Renthals.)

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Old 04-14-2008, 07:13 PM   #48
Bake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barnyard
I lube all my cables with a lube from the John Deere dealership. It's a spray on graphite lube that goes on wet and the alcohol evaporates and leaves dry graphite.

Tom B
+1
Dunno if the product still is available, but we used to use some stuff called Dri-Slide. Just a dab will do ya.. if your cable is one of those nylon or Teflon lined jobs, I'd go with zero lube.

A strange habit I got into when Yamaha made reed-valve bikes that needed every thing sealed better, like points covers..(..I used the yellow 3M weatherstripping ). I wipe a good coating of Vaseline on the inside of the airbox and lid. Particularly on the lid seal. In dusty country, it really collects stuff that would otherwise be on the filter, maybe extending the filter's use a bit.
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:02 PM   #49
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bake
... I wipe a good coating of Vaseline on the inside of the airbox and lid. Particularly on the lid seal. In dusty country, it really collects stuff that would otherwise be on the filter, maybe extending the filter's use a bit.
If you mean you put Vaseline between the filter frame and the airbox to help seal it and force air'n'dirt thru the filter, instead of around it and into the carb, then I would say damn good suggestion. One that neduro might want to add to his tutorial (if'n it ain't there already... need to check )
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:37 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro
You should definitely change your brake fluid every spring, and probably multiple times per season.
Ned,
You're a freakin' machine! Is anyone else's head spinning? Am I all alone in my world of neglected motorcycle maintenance? Excuse me while I go to the garage to see if any of the bikes need a sip of fresh gasoline or a couple psi's in their tires. Forgive me father for I have sinned...
Thanks for all the advice and thoughtful links herin. Priceless stuff here.
I've got work to do!
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Old 04-18-2008, 01:42 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro
Reassemble, and then sit back with a beer where you can see the bike in your garage. I'm serious about this. Does everything look right? I've found lots of things I forgot in the heat of the moment by just letting my attention rest on the bike in general rather than any one part in particular.
You should have written this twice! I cannot count how many times this has saved me from big trouble... or losing a tool.

All great advice!

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Old 04-21-2008, 02:06 PM   #52
snoid
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?

Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro
1) Wheel bearings. With the front brake off, grab the front wheel between the forks and try to move it toward either fork tube. (or for the rear wheel, first between the swingarm and then test the swingarm for play). Front to back can give a false read on fork bushing play, we'll get to that. For now, you want to know if your bearings are good. If the wheel moves side to side, you need new bearings. Break out the hammer and drift. Get your bearings and seals from an industrial bearing supply place, unless you like paying 5x the normal cost.
i can never get the spacer over enough to get a bite with the drift. i've tried wedge style pullers to no effect also.
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:09 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoid
i can never get the spacer over enough to get a bite with the drift. i've tried wedge style pullers to no effect also.
I'm not familiar with the wedge pullers. Link?

Some bikes either have the hub ID close down near one end to keep the spacer from getting wonky, or have something around the spacer that prevents it going much side to side. In my experience, this is typically only on one end (where the axle feeds from), so you have to start at the other end to get a bite. It usually takes a little whacking on the spacer before I can get a good purchase on the bearing.

Oh, and check for split rings before you beat the shit out of your hub. DAMHIK.
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Old 04-22-2008, 08:10 AM   #54
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...

yup, those split rings is dangerous.



http://www.pitposse.com/whbereset.html

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Old 05-12-2008, 04:17 PM   #55
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You rawk Ned, cheers

You know we'd buy it, write a frickin book already!
(Or Adventure Maintenence Techniques DVD?)
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Old 05-13-2008, 09:10 AM   #56
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro
'Tis the season ... (to be jolly ) ...

3) Forks. ...

In addition, you want to make sure they are properly aligned and don't have excessive stiction. The first (and easiest method) is to push down on the bars without holding the brake. It should be possible to get a very small motion with a small amount of force. If not, your bike rides like shit and deflects where it shouldn't, and you need to fix that.

If you have to push hard, and the smallest motion you can get is a big one, quantify the problem by measuring from a fixed point on one half of the fork to a fixed point on the other half. First, pull up and let the bike settle to the resting point. Then, push down and let the bike rise to the resting point. The difference between the measurements shouldn't be more than a few millimeters, if it is, take everything apart, try to find the source, and reassemble carefully until the problem goes away.

Some older KTM forks (03 USD WP's seem to be bad this way) have a lot of stiction that it's hard to get rid of... now you know why it's hard to hold a line through the rock garden.

...
Hi Ned,

Two things for you:

I have a WP-specific maintenance guide on the USD forks HERE. Your fork oil change thread was a big help but there were a few WP issues that needed to be addressed so I herded them up.

And I was wondering what you thought of Motion Pro's ForkTru.



HERE is their ForkTru guide. Not sure why you would need their spiffy gloves for this job...

Didn't find a review of the ForkTru, but Motion Pro's reputation is good. Just wondering what you thought. And thanks for sharing your knowledge and writing up this guide.
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Old 05-22-2008, 04:55 PM   #57
Capt_Aubrey
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the shop is a tool

The poster who stated that (for dirt bikes) hours ridden = hours spent on maintenance is absolutely right. This is forcing me to take a hard look at my garage/shop organization in order to get the most done in the time available.

So -- how do you guys organize your shop space? Any particular recommendations for tool storage, solvent/lube storage, etc.?

My bike maintenance gets done in the same garage/shop space that is a dedicated cabinetmaking/woodworking shop (the bikes are stored elsewhere). I'd like to find tool storage solutions that get everything off the floor (maybe wall-mounted?) because floor real estate is at a premium.

I've also learned that I have to be utterly ruthless about what I allow in the shop. If it doesn't make sawdust or maintain bikes, it goes elsewhere, or in the garbage.

So how do you guys maximize the efficiency of your shop space?
--
Mark
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Old 05-23-2008, 08:41 AM   #58
HellSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt_Aubrey
The poster who stated that (for dirt bikes) hours ridden = hours spent on maintenance is absolutely right. This is forcing me to take a hard look at my garage/shop organization in order to get the most done in the time available.

So -- how do you guys organize your shop space? Any particular recommendations for tool storage, solvent/lube storage, etc.?

My bike maintenance gets done in the same garage/shop space that is a dedicated cabinetmaking/woodworking shop (the bikes are stored elsewhere). I'd like to find tool storage solutions that get everything off the floor (maybe wall-mounted?) because floor real estate is at a premium.

I've also learned that I have to be utterly ruthless about what I allow in the shop. If it doesn't make sawdust or maintain bikes, it goes elsewhere, or in the garbage.

So how do you guys maximize the efficiency of your shop space?
--
Mark
You'd have to see my garage to understand. The best analogy is a fighter cockpit. At the main work area, everthing is with a one step reach. Some things pivot down from ceiling mounts.

Rather than go into too much detail, I'd suggest moving this part of the topic to The Garage. I think they even had a thread on this topic.
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Old 05-24-2008, 05:41 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
I have a WP-specific maintenance guide on the USD forks HERE.


Quote:
And I was wondering what you thought of Motion Pro's ForkTru.
You know, I've never bought a tool from Motion Pro I didn't really like. So, I'd be more than willing to give it a shot, though I'd never heard of it either...
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Old 06-02-2008, 09:22 AM   #60
Denn10
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Lemme throw something is since i saw that pic of you lacing up the grips. Ive laced many a MANY bolts and things on engine to include grips BUT thats the past with grips. I dont lace/safety wire them anymore!! Dont know why i never started doing this back when i was in high school but i used to work at a golf course all thru high school and if you dont know grips on golf clubs arent safety wired at all, and the DONT MOVE EVER. You talking about two hands on them gripping and swinging like Happy Gilmore and they DONT MOVE, thats cuz there installed with double sided tape, several kinds out there like double sided masking tape and others that are stronger adhesive. I have some tough stuff that i use for installing grips and dont wire and havent for many years now. What you do is install the tape on the bars and cut to the length of the grip and use a little gas (not 2T gas) straight gas and put inside grip and cover with thumb and shake it up a little to cover completely inside, Now take and pour the excess over the tape starting at the end and working in. Now take the grip and slide on! goes on nice and easy cuz it softens the adhesive on the tape. Easlily slide around to get it right where you want it and let it sit over night and WALLA your done, SECURE, and no need for lacing. Anyone who plays golf will attest that golf club grips are rock solid and dont move. I believe this is supperior over most grip glues and safety wiring grips. We all have the tails catch gloves and stuff. Just thought id share this with ya all!
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