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Old 06-03-2008, 06:01 AM   #61
Lazy Motorcyclist
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Het Heuvelland aka: The Dutch Mountains
Oddometer: 1,279
Laugh El Cheapo fork alignment

Originally Posted by meat popsicle
Hi Ned,

And I was wondering what you thought of Motion Pro's ForkTru.

Just walk (or ride) to your nearest glazing shop, and ask for a strip of mirror out of the litterbox, it cost nill, and will give you the most true checkicg gage possible, and it's trueness is easily checked, if you looke crooked in the piece of mirror it time for a new peace (glass isn't completely solid)

Place the 2" (~50mm) strip against the tubes, if they are alligned, the mirror will ly flush with them, if not, it wil rattle a little giving audible feedback if your job of aligning is ready...
Every Adventure big or small
................*is* an Adventure all in all.
.........................So every day: Give in to the call

Riding tips: .
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Old 06-08-2008, 05:13 PM   #62
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Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Northern New Mexico
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I was lucky enough to spend some time on one of Ned's machines this past weekend. Thanks again Ned.

All I can say is that Ned's bikes are tuned. I still can't get over how his brakes functioned on his dirt bike. They were so functional. The first time I tried them I felt like I had been working those brakes for ever. They were so crisp and linear that is was uncanny.

Now I am back at home and working on my bikes.

Guys all I am trying to say here. Is that Ned walks the talk. After spending time on his bike. I know that the benefits for getting the setup "right" are worth all the effort.
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Old 06-24-2008, 07:27 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by Denn10
Lemme throw something is since i saw that pic of you lacing up the grips. Ive laced many a MANY bolts and things on engine to include grips BUT thats the past with grips. I dont lace/safety wire them anymore!! Dont know why i never started doing this back when i was in high school but i used to work at a golf course all thru high school and if you dont know grips on golf clubs arent safety wired at all, and the DONT MOVE EVER. You talking about two hands on them gripping and swinging like Happy Gilmore and they DONT MOVE, thats cuz there installed with double sided tape, several kinds out there like double sided masking tape and others that are stronger adhesive. I have some tough stuff that i use for installing grips and dont wire and havent for many years now. What you do is install the tape on the bars and cut to the length of the grip and use a little gas (not 2T gas) straight gas and put inside grip and cover with thumb and shake it up a little to cover completely inside, Now take and pour the excess over the tape starting at the end and working in. Now take the grip and slide on! goes on nice and easy cuz it softens the adhesive on the tape. Easlily slide around to get it right where you want it and let it sit over night and WALLA your done, SECURE, and no need for lacing. Anyone who plays golf will attest that golf club grips are rock solid and dont move. I believe this is supperior over most grip glues and safety wiring grips. We all have the tails catch gloves and stuff. Just thought id share this with ya all!
Golf Pro shops use lighter fluid instead of gas. And grip tape is available at Walmart.
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Old 06-24-2008, 03:14 PM   #64
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Location: beaver river sandflats, texas county.
Oddometer: 29,540

most pit bosses don't use grip glue (rubber cement) and safety wire on their factory rides. they use a fast-drying CA glue (think superglue) instead.

try it, you'll like it.

check yer local hobby shop. they also have a release agent (solvent) that makes the superglue easy to remove.

no more wire,


p.s. i also use a coupla layers of duct tape as rim strip. be warned. i took my rims in to get the tires changed and the tire tech kid brings them out and says, 'hey man, someone put duct tape in yer rims... but don't worry, i took it out and put in rim strips.' uh boy. i didn't even bother telling him what was up.
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Old 06-25-2008, 07:41 PM   #65
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Alabama
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I used the fork service write-up. It's good. Forks good. Steering head was too tight.

Oh yeah, I forgot. Thanks Ned. Ned is a Guru.

DELTATANGO screwed with this post 06-25-2008 at 08:36 PM
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Old 07-16-2008, 06:46 PM   #66
dame los tacos
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Location: Dallas, TX
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Great stuff! I don't have a bike right now, but I'm coming back here first thing when I do.
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Old 07-23-2008, 07:27 PM   #67
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Location: North Shore Mass. USA
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Eek Cheap And Simple!

You fellers are trying way too hard on the grips.....
AEROSOL or PUMP> don't matter.
Also works on Rubber footpegs etc.
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Old 08-02-2008, 03:40 PM   #68
neduro OP
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Originally Posted by spo123
I've had it fail in the wet, and it's always a pain in the ass to clean up and remove.

I stand by safety wire. It takes about 2 minutes, it's secure, safe, effective, and will make you more attractive to the opposite sex.

OK, I made part of that up but I still think it's a good solution.
Doubletake Mirrors- Folding D/S mirror that is both useful and indestructible.

Dual Sport Riding Techniques DVDs: Clear instructional DVDs to improve off-road skills.
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Old 08-04-2008, 10:37 PM   #69
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Ventura, CA
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good enough for me

dis aliter vissum

Don't Panic

2007 950 SE
2010 TE 510
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:02 AM   #70
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Zagreb, Croatia
Oddometer: 752
Make snow melt faster

So this is what I have been doing during the cold months...Introduction:
In may '08 I bought a 2001 LC4 Adv with 9000 km on it, after a long time without a bike. As I'm 191 cm tall and my GF is 188 cm I wanted a big enough bike, one we won't look silly riding, a bike we could do some touring and a bike I think I would have fun riding...also something I could maintain mostly by myself. The bike had no mods but did have Touratech panniers ( i love my Touratech cases) and both stands.

Day 1:

The first owner did 9000km in six years (model '01 bought in '02), last season I did 6500km...I won't describe Croatia and it's coast as inmate Damir and some other people did a great job in here:

So came the winter and in November I took the bike to the local dealer to change the oil, do the valve inspection, change brake fluids and to do other scheduled maintenance stuff. As the weather got colder I managed to make a little garage in the cellar of my building. And I started disasembling:

I really thoroughly cleaned everything, cleaned all the grease, cleaned chain guides, sprockets, wheels, bearings, treated electrical contacts with contact cleaner, cleaned the engine, removed the pipe, treated plastics....everything.

Then I changed pads and brake fluid, this was of great help!
I got some bar risers from swmotech (30mm), I got a orange mud guard and fork guards because I wanted the bike to look a bit more lively, also I had zip flyes sewn onto the neopren socks so I can take them off and clean them and underneath them.

I managed to mount both OEM stands at the same time, this was a bit of a pain, I had to drill, saw, make spacers from all kinds of stuff, buy bolts with lower heads...managed to brake some's the result.

Both headlights were wired together because of a well known problem, Plavakuca was a real friend with some 100% foolproof instructions. If anybody needs a translation just PM me.

Then I wanted a decent tool box, this and this was the inspiration and here's my thing, usual suspect inmates were of help with some advice on not drilling the frame, so I went with welding a carrier onto it. My thing proved not to be a good option because when my GF jumps on the bike with me, the tire rubs quite a lot on the rear part of the stay tuned for mods...I WILL make it work because I really like this kind of solution, it fills the gap between side plastics and the rear part...kind of what the silencer does on the other side, I also have lined the box with rubber on the inside and put the nice KTM sticker on it. I really like it and I can fit all the tools I whant with me. Also a can of tire repair moose fits on it.

Next thing was to replacie the 16Z front sprocket with a OEM 15Z sprocket, I went with OEM part because they sad so here. Also a hole in the sprocket guard was cut to check sprocket wear and the bolt. Some options on that here.

Because I have limited movement of ankles on both feet (soccer and basketball injuries) I tried to lower the gear shift lever but that was not possible, it leans on the frame and shifting into first gets impossible, one of the first things I need to get is an afermarket lever that is adjustable (swmotech maybe). I managed to move te rear brake lever peg forward by welding a piece of stainless steel as an extension on the peg and drilling a second hole on the alu lever.It makes me quite more comfortable using it now.

If anybody decides to do a similar mod....first do the drilling than the welding....don't ask....

And that's it...more or less...actually, the most important profit for me after doing this is getting to know where, why and how that I learned during it. Now I know what tools I need, where electrical, coolant and oil lines go...all together I got familiar and comfortable with the bike and basic things around it.

There are some other things I did, as buying a shorter front brake lever, new grips..... but this stuff is actually not worth posting about (I'm wondering if any of this is with all the other valuable stuff round here).

Bike looks like this now! I kinda like it....what about you?

After a couple days of commuting and riding around town I'm really pleased with bar risers, both stands on (really practical in the city) and most of all with a 15Z sprocket up front....much more fun and it's going to be excellent offroad....

In the near future I plan on buying rally pegs and a decent cover. Before vacation I'll change oil and inspect the valves...will report, also, but I dont know when ( maybe next winter) I plan to rejet the carb and buy an aftermarket pipe....also will report.

And afternoon, after coming home from work I noticed this, this and this. On the second picture you are probably not able to see a thin line of fluid coming from the upper bolt that holds the pump carrier to the casing. I'll post better pic's tomorow. I have an idea or two why and how it happened but I would really like to hear what you people say...afterall you are much more experienced than I am. Please really pissed me off today.


makazica screwed with this post 02-16-2009 at 11:09 AM
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:08 AM   #71
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Old 02-13-2010, 09:06 PM   #72
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: central Mn
Oddometer: 11,235
A couple people in this thread asked about bearing houses.

In some areas, Berry Bearing or Motion Industries (they are in the yellow pages). If not, John Deere Tractor dealerships are troves of bearings and seals. The parts guys have calipers behind the counters and most seem to be pretty darned helpful (I have bought stuff from 4 different JD dealers.)

When I did the topend on my 2T, I picked up Viton seals at JD for less than $1 each. They were way more than that at the KTM shop.

Tom B
all around good guy
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:01 PM   #73
Gnarly Adventurer
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: BanffYFF
Oddometer: 128
I just came across this thread again, and as it's Spring out there... get to it!
Thanks again for posting this Neduro.

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Old 03-03-2015, 05:14 PM   #74
Dark Happens
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Location: San Francisco
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Bump. Its almost Spring. Get to work.
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Old 03-05-2015, 11:31 PM   #75
Thread Derailleur
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Vancouver Island
Oddometer: 865
Originally Posted by neduro View Post
I've had it fail in the wet, and it's always a pain in the ass to clean up and remove.

I stand by safety wire. It takes about 2 minutes, it's secure, safe, effective, and will make you more attractive to the opposite sex.

OK, I made part of that up but I still think it's a good solution.
I've always cleaned the bars really well with 99% Isopropyl alcohol, and slipped the grips on while wet, and if necessary, dripping a bit of alcohol down the grip with a flathead screwdriver inside to let the fluid between the grip and the bar. Evaporates completely, and has never failed me.
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