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Old 06-03-2011, 12:28 PM   #1591
neduro OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Dog View Post
Is the 'Stock' 530 EXC Silencer different from the 530 XC / 450 SX Stock Silencer
Yes and no- first, XCW, XCF, and SXF have different, though interchangeable, silencers.

EXC is like the XCW except with a very small plug at the end, which is easily cut off.
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Old 06-04-2011, 06:38 AM   #1592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro View Post
Yes and no- first, XCW, XCF, and SXF have different, though interchangeable, silencers.

EXC is like the XCW except with a very small plug at the end, which is easily cut off.
So, would a SXF silencer be better [less restrictive] for the EXC ??

I put a SX silencer on my old 525 EXC & liked it well
[exc silencer was restricted compared to the sx]
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Old 06-04-2011, 06:43 AM   #1593
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Originally Posted by Brown Dog View Post
So, would a SXF silencer be better [less restrictive] for the EXC ??

I put a SX silencer on my old 525 EXC & liked it well
[exc silencer was restricted compared to the sx]
Yes, the SX muffler is a lot less restrictive than the stock EXC 530 muffler, even after the internal restrictor is cut off.

I am running the SX muffler that came with my 07 XCFW 250, it's got a bit more bark and bite to it.

The downside is that it does not have a spark arrestor, although I am sure that I could find and end cap that has one.
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Old 06-04-2011, 10:06 AM   #1594
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How do you distinguish the difference between the the 2010 old frame, and 2010 new frame. The did change mid year, didn't they?
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Old 06-04-2011, 12:19 PM   #1595
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Originally Posted by G Goat View Post
How do you distinguish the difference between the the 2010 old frame, and 2010 new frame. The did change mid year, didn't they?
Look at the weld between the frame and the headtube on top. If there's minimal space beneath the bearing cap, it's the old style. If there's substantial (~10mm) space, it's the new one.

Really, though, all true 10's have the new frame. Only the rebadged 09's (Champions Editions) are the old frame.
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Old 06-04-2011, 08:42 PM   #1596
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Fork Tube Setting in Triple Clamps

I have an '09 EXCR. I am looking for some feedback on how much fork tube should stick through the upper triple clamp. The manual says it should be flush to the top triple clamp. What are you guys running for fast two track and single track?
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Old 06-04-2011, 09:02 PM   #1597
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Originally Posted by Dluke View Post
I have an '09 EXCR. I am looking for some feedback on how much fork tube should stick through the upper triple clamp. The manual says it should be flush to the top triple clamp. What are you guys running for fast two track and single track?
I run it flush to the second engraved line on the tube, so there's a fair bit sticking out. Seems to work very well.

I found the steering was too heavy flush to the triple. YMMV.

dc
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Old 06-05-2011, 06:45 AM   #1598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dluke View Post
I have an '09 EXCR. I am looking for some feedback on how much fork tube should stick through the upper triple clamp. The manual says it should be flush to the top triple clamp. What are you guys running for fast two track and single track?
You should definitely experiment for yourself- other people's settings will be meaningless. Also, note that your rear ride height (sag) will have a similar effect, so there are many ingredients in how the bike handles.
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Old 06-05-2011, 12:46 PM   #1599
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What is wrong here?

After riding, and when the bike is warm, the engaged clutch will allow the engine to idle in gear--no problem---there doesn't feel like there is any 'clutch drag'. Even so, I can't hold the clutch lever in and start the bike because there is so much 'drag' that the bike will 'pull through' the clutch and propel the bike forward. The handle bar lever adjustment is all the way out---that is there is a full 'throw' and maximum apparent travel of the master cylinder piston. What gives with this?
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Old 06-05-2011, 06:07 PM   #1600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deseret Rider View Post
After riding, and when the bike is warm, the engaged clutch will allow the engine to idle in gear--no problem---there doesn't feel like there is any 'clutch drag'. Even so, I can't hold the clutch lever in and start the bike because there is so much 'drag' that the bike will 'pull through' the clutch and propel the bike forward. The handle bar lever adjustment is all the way out---that is there is a full 'throw' and maximum apparent travel of the master cylinder piston. What gives with this?
With the stock battery, I just put it in neutral until it is warm. Now, I have the Turntch 5Amp and it starts in gear after a few cycles of the starter, even on a cold May morning.
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Old 06-05-2011, 06:17 PM   #1601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dluke View Post
I have an '09 EXCR. I am looking for some feedback on how much fork tube should stick through the upper triple clamp. The manual says it should be flush to the top triple clamp. What are you guys running for fast two track and single track?

Under those conditions, I prefer bars forward, no riser and the forks up 5-10mm...going to experiment with a tall firm seat on those rides too.

Dual sporting and rally style riding, I would lean to stock seat, and riser and the forks flush....FWIW.

I think I would always leave my pegs in in the stock position to protect my toes.
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Old 06-05-2011, 06:30 PM   #1602
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Dented head pipe

What do you do when you dent your head pipe?
It hasn't affected performance, at least with my seat of pants observation.
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Old 06-05-2011, 08:25 PM   #1603
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dragging clutch

Dutch---To clarify-- my problem isn't that the bike won't start---it will start easily in neutral. The problem is that when the bike is in gear I can't pull in the clutch and start it because the clutch hasn't fully disengaged. It's as if the clutch actuating rod needs to be a little bit longer. Or perhaps the 'travel' of the rod needs to be a little bit longer. I do believe I am getting full available travel at the master cylinder because the adjustment there is max'ed---I have no 'slack' in the lever and a full ark available . The fluid level in the master cylinder is full and as far as I know there is no air in the line? So I am puzzled why the clutch doesn't fully disengage? I am wondering if the clutch plates are sticking? I'm using 20W/50 weight motor oil in the transmission and the same in the engine crankcase. I'm inviting comment and suggestion of how to solve my problem ? The clutch should fully disengage and allow the E-start when the bike is in gear---NO?
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:56 PM   #1604
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Fork Tube Setting in Triple Clamps

Thanks for the feedback. I have just replaced the rear shock spring with Trail Tricks extended length spring. Javier recommends this approach in order to minimize the amount of pre-load and prevent coil binding. So far, I like it for my 200# riding weight. I was running 3 rings of fork tube exposed above the triple but once I got the rear sag set correctly, the front end was not quite as stable. This seemed to me like I lost too much trail. I am going experiment with the fork adjustment and will post my findings.
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Old 06-06-2011, 05:28 PM   #1605
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Dented pipe

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingDutchman View Post
What do you do when you dent your head pipe?
It hasn't affected performance, at least with my seat of pants observation.
I have read that you can seal the ends, fill the pipe with water and freeze it. As the water expands, it will remove the dent. I am not sure about how to seal the ends.
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