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Old 04-27-2013, 05:37 PM   #4201
resqd1
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Originally Posted by resqd1 View Post
Guys I have been looking but cant find this, if it is somewhere and can just point me to it thanks. I have the oem fan kit on my 09 and want to put in an override switch to turn it on when I want before the thermo kicks in if I know I am coming into a hot section of trail. Any write up out there on this?

anyone have any pointers?
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:41 PM   #4202
darkstarmoto
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Originally Posted by Yellow Pig View Post
You guys seen this headlight?

Enduro-Tech LED Hi/Low (4500/1800 lumen)

http://youtu.be/jWQkFKjN2LY

http://youtu.be/IlCYtaAadgY
That is sweet! The only issue I can see is the fender makes a huge shadow. Kinda hard to tell how bad in the video.
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:49 PM   #4203
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Originally Posted by Yellow Pig View Post
You guys seen this headlight?

Enduro-Tech LED Hi/Low (4500/1800 lumen)

http://youtu.be/jWQkFKjN2LY

http://youtu.be/IlCYtaAadgY
Looks awesome! Something that effective that's just plug and play is what we need....wonder what it costs though? Looks well made!
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:42 PM   #4204
Bungholio
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Ditch the thermal switch and just use an on/off button. I have the hdb clamp with one of their switches for the fan

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Old 04-27-2013, 09:47 PM   #4205
resqd1
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I want that extra back up incase I get into my riding and forget about the fan.
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:08 PM   #4206
Subaru297
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Originally Posted by resqd1 View Post
I want that extra back up incase I get into my riding and forget about the fan.
Just put in a switch that will connect the two sides of the thermal switch. Then you can turn it on whenever you want and the thermostat will still work too.
Just get a switch capable of a few amps. 10 amp switch would probably be safe.
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:14 PM   #4207
resqd1
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I figured that, but wasnt sure if something would go haywire if both were switched at the same time.
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:27 AM   #4208
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Originally Posted by resqd1 View Post
I figured that, but wasnt sure if something would go haywire if both were switched at the same time.
Just an extra path for those electrons to flow.
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:23 PM   #4209
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Cool thanks guys
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:55 PM   #4210
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I finally get a Sunday with no work or family responsibilities, and it's been raining steadily for 24+ hours, with no signs of letting up. I don't mind getting wet, but riding in a slop-fest isn't my idea of fun. I've posted in this thread several times, but I guess I should officially check in with pics to make it legit, and chronicle what I've done to her over the last year or so. If you're as bored as I am, read on.

Like most folks here, I grew up on dirt bikes. Had to give them up when I went to college, then rode street exclusively for a lot of years. My taste in motorcycles started turning back toward the dirt, with my purchases turning toward dual-sport bikes that became more and more dirt-oriented. I finally got full-blown dirt bike fever a little over a year ago, and started shopping for a big-bore KTM.

Here she is, a 2009 530 EXC, as I brought her home a little over a year ago:



Ugly. Looks like a zebra threw up on it. That spiral pattern on the header isn't a wrap, but a stain left by a previously removed wrap.

The previous owner straight-up told me it had a lot of hard use on it, but it wasn't clear how much because of the original computer being smashed, and the TT Vector that replaced it failing, then being replaced under warranty. He estimated 6000 miles based on having just installed his 9th rear tire. Some significant upgrades and changes from the PO:

-new Rekluse Z-Start Pro
-new rad fan
-Sicass switches/blinkers/tail light/map switch
-JD jet kit
-FMF can (surprisingly quiet)
-13/52 gearing
-Renthal RC bars, black
-ASV levers
-Scott's over-the-bar mount (he kept the damper)
-extra seat
-quote: "I sent the suspension off to Race Tech in California and had $2000 worth of work done"
-some kind of aluminum bash plate
-all that lovely white plastic

A lot of the changes made me think the bike had been crashed hard, more than once; which didn't really scare me, because these are tough bikes. And, I really didn't want a pristine garage queen that I would be hesitant to throw down on the ground. He gave me a price that would have been fair for a well-used bone-stocker, so even if I had to do a top-end rebuild and make major suspension changes right away (this is a writing mechanism called "foreshadowing"), it was like somebody handed me a free auto-clutch.

It didn't start and warm up easily, acting like it was lean, but smelling stinky-rich. Took it on a couple of short local trail rides without checking or changing anything. It ran OK once it was warmed up, but droned like a scooter because of the auto-clutch slipping so much. The front fork was stiff, and the rear was soft but pretty well-controlled. It was stable and nice in grass-track, but a handful in the rocks, roots, and ruts. It turns out that there was tons of preload up front, none out back, and all the bleeds were turned almost all the way in. The PO had done a couple of SM trackdays with it at Josh Herrin's place, so I guess he left the settings where they were. I was surprised that it worked as well as it did.

The droning caused by the clutch slipping was remedied by replacing the tranny oil with Rekluse's recommendation of Rotella 15/40 dino. That gives me what I wanted from the Rekluse, which is stall prevention. The auto clutch is a great safety net for a re-entry rider like myself. I also replaced the 13/52 gearing with 14/50. The 13/52 setup is popular around here for single-track, because it makes 2nd the go-to gear for the tight stuff, leaving 1st as a granny gear for getting out of trouble. I didn't feel that was necessary with the Rekluse. The 14/50 setup works everywhere. I'm even considering trying 14/48.

I am lucky to have a great local dealer, Scott Miller at Carolina KTM in Mooresville, NC. I talked to him about the bike and he made a few recommendations. I already knew I needed to re-spring, as I'm 80# heavier than the PO, so I went with Scott's numbers on that: .48 kg/mm front and Factory Connection FCW-3 on the back.

When I described the starting/running characteristics and told him it had a JD kit in it, he just rolled his eyes, saying that the JD kits are an easy fix that makes the bike run OK, but it can be a lot better. He recommended a 42 pilot, OBDTQ needle in the 5th slot, and a 182 main (huge!). It's a cheap enough experiment, so I thought I'd try it.

BINGO! Started immediately, came off the choke in a reasonable amount of time, and settled into a smooth idle. Crisp, crisp response off the bottom, and really rips up top. One thing I didn't expect was that the map switch now makes a huge difference. Before, not so much. It pretty much ran like it was on the low-octane map all the time with the JD setup. Now, on the standard map, it's a monster.

I got the springs changed just before an all-day organized dual-sport ride (Armenia for you locals), but didn't have time to fool with dialing in the clickers, so I set them to the middle, set the sag, and hoped for the best. It was awful. The front was harsh on little stuff, and blew right through the stroke on big stuff. The worst of both worlds. The rear was bearable, but the front was so bad it was hard to judge the rear. The bike was only happy when I was standing and on the gas hard, which wasn't often on this ride with mostly sit-down-and-duck hardwood forest single-track. I got back to the truck at lunchtime, pretty well spent from fighting the bike, and saw no oil in the sight glass. Decided to call it a day.

The front of the cylinder was covered with oil, which was coming from the exhaust flange, so it was obvious that at least one of the exhaust valve stem seals was shot. It never smoked, so it was apparently blowing oil straight out the exhaust port without it being burned in the combustion chamber. It used 300 ml of oil in four hours of tight single-track riding. Since the head had to come off to replace the stem seals, and the bike had a lot of hours on it, I decided to go ahead and replace the piston to avoid having to dig into it again later. I went with the forged aluminum Vertex, rather than the OEM. The bore was pristine, so I just had to deglaze it and swap parts. I actually had an engine machine shop owner/buddy of mine do the work on the head. I also did the oil pump upgrade at the same time. The bike definitely picked up some snap from the piston swap. I must have been a little down on compression before the rebuild, but I didn't bother with a leak-down test since I was gong to replace the piston anyway. This engine is a joy to work on, by the way.

The work on the engine was done over the course of about a 3-month period, because of work suckage. Once back together, I set about trying to set the suspension adjustments to settle the bike down. The rear wasn't so bad, but the front just refused to cooperate. For any semblance of control, I had to run the clickers almost all the way in, which resulted in a really stiff, tiring ride. I relented, and took my suspension to FTI Racing to have it "un-Race Teched". It turns out that only the fork base valves had Gold Valves in them. But, the work that Cal Northrop did on my suspension made an astonishing difference. I set the rear sag and went riding. Very quickly, I put my damper purchase plans on the back burner. The bike just tracks straight through ruts, roots, and loose or embedded rocks. The front stays up in the stroke much better, making it turn a lot more predictably. It's plush without being mushy, and yet very resistant to bottoming. I am really pleased, and haven't even messed with the bleeds yet. Still at Cal's recommended starting settings.

So, the major stuff done, I added Fastways footpegs, and removed the damper mount and post, and mounted some Fastways handguards I had on the shelf. My headlight housing had gotten broken somewhere along the way, so I swapped it for a TT X2 headlight; which I promptly bashed into a tree an hour after I installed it when I grabbed an inadvertent handful coming out of a gully when the throttle stuck shut. The PO had put on some OMI clamp-on grips, and the throttle tube fit was sloppy, allowing the cam to bind and stick in the throttle housing. So, I went ahead and added a G2 throttle tube with the 400 cam to hopefully keep from killing myself. Also did a little work-for-work trading with a customer and got my header pipe ceramic coated. I had also previously replaced the Al skidplate with the KTM QR plastic one, and added one of Ned's mirrors. Replaced the Dunlop 606's with Kenda Washougal Stickies, which feel like Velcro in comparison.

As she stands today, mostly de-stickered:



What would I change? I wish I had gotten the gripper-top seat cover instead of the all faux-carbon. I'm not crazy about the white plastics, but I'm a form-follows-function kind of guy, so it's not a big deal. I thought about higher bars or risers (I'm 6'4"), but after rotating the bars forward, I've found a riding position that's so good I don't want to mess with it. I think I'm done for a while.

With the G2 w/400 cam, the Rekluse, and the map switch to "Off", this bike is a pussycat. Probably still more bike than I need at this stage of my re-education, but certainly manageable, and I'm not going to outgrow it. If I'm able to add a true woods bike to the stable, like a 200 two-stroke, I will probably take this one more toward being a true dual-sport rather than a trail-hopper as it is currently. It's really amazing that it can excel at either role.

Thanks to all of you, especially Neduro and Hodakaguy, for the tremendous amount of info in this thread.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:31 PM   #4211
Foot dragger
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Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
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Nice! They are some neatass bikes,I found a 2011 530EXCR and raced 5 hours away and grabbed it paying too much in the process,it had 25 hours on it and I wanted it bad. It came with a JD jet kit which seems to work just great,I do need to put in 1 size leaner pilot as the fuel screw is set about full lean.
But it barks! At sea level or at 6600' out in the Nevada desert it runs real strong,40+ mpg and it was pulling 90mph uphill on a sandy 2 track and wanted to go faster. Snaps to like a big 2 stroke almost. A Q FMF is on it currently,stock EPA muffler is a major butt plug.

Stock suspension did great on sand whoops and is amazingly plush on local singletrack or choppy fireroad,Ive had about 14 KTM's and this one is the best by a ways so far.

After the desert trip with it Im thinking of trying it out more on local tight trail,Ive been riding my 200 but the 530 turns great and will climb anything as fast as you want to go.

The only niggling thing is the clutch not dis-engaging quite all the way,Ive read how many of these bikes do it and its no good for me,wont start in gear and it can stall with the clutch all the way pulled in.
Gotta get that fixed.

Have fun once the rain quits!
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:51 AM   #4212
FlyingDutchman
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Originally Posted by resqd1 View Post
I want that extra back up incase I get into my riding and forget about the fan.
I'm sure you have read this before but I installed the Trailtech stator, Turntech 5A battery and the KTM fan. In tight single track, +30C with a xxxl rider, and my bike has never boiled.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:04 AM   #4213
FlyingDutchman
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Turntech Battery 2 Yr review

I installed my Turntech 5 Amp battery 2 years ago, about 100hrs of riding.

This winter, I "decided" to leave it in the bike this winter without maintenance.

It still started after a few cycles on the starter. Impressive.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:17 AM   #4214
Foot dragger
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Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Pig View Post
You guys seen this headlight?

Enduro-Tech LED Hi/Low (4500/1800 lumen)

http://youtu.be/jWQkFKjN2LY

http://youtu.be/IlCYtaAadgY
It looks slick,I wonder if it just plugs in or floating of the stator is required? Then I wonder if the stock glow in the dark headlight can plug right back in ?

Im a champion headlight breaker so Im a little leery of putting a 400.00 headlight on a dirtbike.
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:36 PM   #4215
FlyingDutchman
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All the lighting you need for 55 bucks...

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Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
It looks slick,I wonder if it just plugs in or floating of the stator is required? Then I wonder if the stock glow in the dark headlight can plug right back in ?

Im a champion headlight breaker so Im a little leery of putting a 400.00 headlight on a dirtbike.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7kSh1eAJQg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-10W-CRE...3cb85e&vxp=mtr

I have two mounted on my bike...one on each handguard on the inner mount. Works great.
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