Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[CopaMundial]

Originally Posted by Jeremy1981

While I'm here, how feasible does the Collective think it would be to pack up the R² for some light touring- what kind of weight limitations would you say the lack of substantial subframe poses? Could a ~11 pound tent, plus pad, sleeping bag, light weight stove, and a few days' worth of food and clothing be safely/comfortably carried, to make minimalist touring possible?

It comes stock with passenger pegs. I don't think camping gear would pose a structural problem for the sub frame in terms of support.
Having said that, I wouldn't try two-up WITH a lot of camping gear. But one or the other wouldn't be bad.
You would want to keep the load as narrow and low as possible, but that's not specific to this bike, just general rule of thumb.

[CopaMundial]

Originally Posted by BigDogAdventures.com

I don't know why my dogs hates the UPS person so much
He's always trying to beat me to the door.

That's a nice box.

[valvecrusher]

Originally Posted by CopaMundial

That's a nice box.

What box?

[Gargoyle]

Originally Posted by ValveCrusher

What box?

The ones on the cart.

[Jeremy1981]

Originally Posted by CopaMundial

That's a nice box.

Why yes it is!

As far as packing the bike, I'm thinking along the lines of a 4-man Kifaru tipi with stove, tarp, pad and sleeping bag, backpacking stove (maybe skipped if stove works for boiling water) and pot, (the stainless or titanium kind ) 1 full change of outerwear (not riding gear) and several underwear changes, food to feast upon for 3-5 days or so at a time. The stove is ~20"x~10"x~4" folded, if I remember- that would be the most awkward item, hopefully in a saddlebag. And of course SLR camera with a couple lenses and maybe flash and other incidentals in a tank bag. I'd hope for easily removable luggage all around, so I could set up camp and ride light, or same for commute. With a windscreen like we saw here earlier, Zeta handguards, heated grips (&/or muffs) and maybe heated vest for year round use, and some good flexible tires (K270, MEFO Explorer, or TKC80 or similar), I'd hope to have a single setup that would work all around. I just don't want to load it down too far for 'spirited' riding while travelling/exploring.

Probably 50-75% of my miles would be during daily commuting, although once I move I can hope to have a better/more back-roads commute than my slab commute now.

With luck, I will be able to escape for a weekend or more most months after I'm set up right for it.

[LusterBroil]

Originally Posted by Gargoyle

The ones on the cart.

What can brown do for you?

[Rusty Rocket]

The title of this thread says "pics of her naked"


we're getting close.

[rufus]

Rufus lives in my town. I think I'll have him come over and perform the test himself and see what happens. I can verify that he did indeed work the ISDE in Tulsa a few years ago. I also have a 2nd Sound Meter at Church...identical to the one used. I'll compare both to double check calibration.

HF [/quote]





I'd like to put the meter to my 525! You really need the tach to get an accurate reading. The numbers go way up after you pass the specified rpm.-------Everything seems to affect the db numbers. Humidity, temperature, I don't remember exactly how though---the temp of your bike even. A cold motor has higher numbers. Possibly more metallic ringing? There is also a difference between an "at the ear reading" and an "at the meter" reading. I particularly remember a rider on a Kawa KLX 650 with an aftermarket exhaust that was obnoxiously loud. It pissed off everyone around it. But he passed the meter test. There was also an ATK 400(air cooled 2 stroke) that was so quiet thet it literally could not be heard from 100 yards away. It didn't come close to passing the test. Back when db test were first used riders were trying everything to pass the test. We had a bunch of riders one years who came to the test with about a 12" section if innertube slipped over the end of the muffler. They left about 1/2 of it hanging off the back covering the end of the pipe. To the ear this was A LOT quieter. To the meter it made no difference at all. Tom Webb (Dirt bike magazine) brought a KX 250 one year with an Acerbis plastic muffler. It had the lowest reading I ever saw, (except for that 1 guy who rode a stock kdx 200) About 88db IIRC. Unfortunately the plastic mufflers didn't hold up.

Happy Trails...................

[GordMounce]

Sorry - did you say a four-man teepee with stove?! I thought you were going lightweight? ;) Create your winter warmth with the sleeping bag, not with a stove. Besides, dying of CO2 poisoning is a drag.

Shop at mec.ca or rei.com. Grab a Jetboil stove for cooking. MSR Hubba or Hubba-Hubba tent for accommodation. That's 3.3lbs for the one-man.

Get a down sleeping bag. Ultimate warmth-per-pound, and very compactable - unlike man-made fills. MEC does a great one that's 1.5lbs, and is rated for just below freezing temps. They do one that's rated to -30 Celcius if you're so inclined too!

Let the KLR guys haul the Griswald vacation gear. Us WR guys roll ultralight!

Originally Posted by Jeremy1981

Why yes it is!

As far as packing the bike, I'm thinking along the lines of a 4-man Kifaru tipi with stove, tarp, pad and sleeping bag, backpacking stove (maybe skipped if stove works for boiling water) and pot, (the stainless or titanium kind ) 1 full change of outerwear (not riding gear) and several underwear changes, food to feast upon for 3-5 days or so at a time. The stove is ~20"x~10"x~4" folded, if I remember- that would be the most awkward item, hopefully in a saddlebag. And of course SLR camera with a couple lenses and maybe flash and other incidentals in a tank bag. I'd hope for easily removable luggage all around, so I could set up camp and ride light, or same for commute. With a windscreen like we saw here earlier, Zeta handguards, heated grips (&/or muffs) and maybe heated vest for year round use, and some good flexible tires (K270, MEFO Explorer, or TKC80 or similar), I'd hope to have a single setup that would work all around. I just don't want to load it down too far for 'spirited' riding while travelling/exploring.

Probably 50-75% of my miles would be during daily commuting, although once I move I can hope to have a better/more back-roads commute than my slab commute now.

With luck, I will be able to escape for a weekend or more most months after I'm set up right for it.

[Jaynen]

Originally Posted by DaymienRules

I did. Dan ground a custom intake cam and dyno tested for about 2 weeks. The cam really made no significant hp increase, so he deemed that it wasn't worth pursuing at the time. He believes the exhaust was the limiting factory on the stock bike, and was trying to get a DRD exhaust to play with. I still have the cam installed and will work with Dan on any future engine mods I do. He also said it was one of the most difficult bikes to work on that he'd dealt with in a while, so thats fun.

Interesting I just spoke to Dr D a couple weeks ago and their slip on is done but I dont think they did a full kit for our bikes have yet to hear any reviews on the system tho

[BigDogAdventures.com]

Well-----the UPS girl just left again.
My little doggy gave her a hard time---something bout that big brown truck

I hope I'm not boring you all with stuff that's probably already been covered---so I hope I ad a little different insight.

I got 2 brown boxes today from the brown truck.
One the DCR tailight conversion and my Ricochet skidplate from Utah Sport Cycles.


So out to the sickle shed I go and fire up the heater for a what I thought would be a full days of work.

I kid you not-----I slit open the plastic bag the skidplate was in got a 10mm socket out
and 1 minute later this baby was mounted on the bike. No screwy clamps---bolted right in to existing
mounting points on the bike. How cool is that.



Heck my shop is not even warmed up yet and I'm done with the first project.

OK----all this has got to go-----it'd be great on my KLR--but not on this light thing.

First thing I had to do was take the seat, sidecovers and rear fender.
I thought oh no---this will take a while----2 minutes later it was all on the ground
So far this thing is so easy to work on.
This is going way to fast.




And this is what I replaced the stock turn signals, tailight, brake light and license plate light with.
Everything is LED. From DRC I do believe.



I spliced the wires in here using soldered connections and heat shrink tube.
No crimp connections or black tape on BigDogs bikes.


The wiring splice is done.


Finished product---and it worked !!!!




Here is where I routed my Widder heated clothing thermostat to----really handy. I run a 2ft. wire from the plug to me and it allows me to stand up freely and move around on the bike with no problems---I can even get off the bike to pee without unplugging


Front turn signal---this has got to go.
Be nice on my KLR or a big Beemer--not on this bike tho.
Today--I'll get the garage warmed up and get the LED front turns signals on.
I didn't order a bracket---so I'll fabricate one---we'll see how this turns out.
What were they thinkin' when they put these turn signals on here---must have been some DOT thing.


Sorry bout the Harley painting on the wall in my shop in the background of my shop. My wife painted that on there in 1974---the year we bought the house. I've owned quite a few of those--even a 1937 model.

[Zadok08]

Originally Posted by BigDogAdventures.com

Finished product---and it worked !!!!

Did the DRC not come with spacers to move the light closer to
the fender?

This was an issue early on. When looking at the photos that Wheeling
Cycle Supply had up on their site, it showed the tail light much closer
to the fender. When speaking with Forrest at Wheeling, he said they
had the spacers coming. I had asked for him to send me a set since
I had already purchaced the light. I never did get them, but my
understanding was all the new lights had them.

I just went ahead and used some stainless spacers I had in the garage.

Bike is looking good......

[Zadok08]

BTW....from the pictures, it looks like your rear fender
is not on correctly. There is a tab on the underneath side
that goes into a slot in the subframe. Might want
to look under there and see. That will drop your fender
down and the black rubber pieces to set down on the
tubing.

[BigDogAdventures.com]

Originally Posted by Zadok08

BTW....from the pictures, it looks like your rear fender
is not on correctly. There is a tab on the underneath side
that goes into a slot in the subframe. Might want
to look under there and see. That will drop your fender
down and the black rubber pieces to set down on the
tubing.

Thanks Zadok---I'll check that seat out right now----as far as the spacers go---I'm not sure what you are talking about.
They did send some rubber grommets for the tailight mounting---but forgot the tubular inserts to go in the grommets so I had to make some. Not sure if these are the spacers you are talking about. But whether you use these or not it wouldn't make hardly any difference about the height of the tailight.

By the way--the license plate holes are about an inch to close----I'll have to re-drill holes in my license plate to mount it up. I looked and looked to see if I did something wrong.

Anybody else have this ??

[blimpman]

I also put this new rear end on and replaced the turn signals. Bigdog, did you do anything to change the flasher rate now that two of the turn signals are LED? My flash rate is now 2X was the stock rate was. I am sure it is because of the resistance change from bulbs to LED.