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Old 04-26-2011, 08:16 AM   #21376
Rider_WV
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Location: Leon, WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
Just hitting the flip side here....I do love this bike. It's been all I've had most of the time since early December. I've sold the DL650A to make room for the Super Tenere that isn't coming now until November.

I miss my DL. I miss eating up miles like they're nothing...arriving after a few hundred miles and being fresh.

I definitely have a need of another bike. I just have to encourage myself to wait...wait and use the tactical nuke outside it's scope until the ICBM comes to my garage.

I gotta get this straight in my head, because I am thinking CRAZY shit right now about filling this 7 month gap.

patience is a virtue

I must say the DL650 and WR make great stable mates. Will the super 10 be all that the DL is/was? i hope so but I will stick to my DL until the S-10 is proven and actually stateside.

Why not pick up another used "fun" bike to cover the big miles (and 7 months) until the S-10's show up? Something like a SV650, or a VFR800, or a cheap Versys, er6n, etc... something for $3k-ish that you can sell easily if the s-10 shows up in Nov.
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Old 04-26-2011, 08:44 AM   #21377
Crawdaddy
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Location: Ramona, CA.
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Ordered your CORE T yet?

Latest round of CORE T's boxed, bundled and ready for delivery at the CORE Primm/Bar 10 rides this weekend (sorry for the lousy phone pic)........and yes, they're available in WR250R blue

http://crawdadoffroadevents.com/core-calendar/view/4



http://crawdadoffroadevents.com/store
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Old 04-26-2011, 08:49 AM   #21378
RichardU
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Does anybody know how to disconnect the brake light wire from the front brake control? Looks like a push and twist, but I don't want to force it inappropriately.
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:12 AM   #21379
galland1
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Location: S.W., MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardU View Post
Does anybody know how to disconnect the brake light wire from the front brake control? Looks like a push and twist, but I don't want to force it inappropriately.
My master has a hole in the bottom. Push a small allen wrench in and pull.
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:14 AM   #21380
trav72
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Location: The garbage state
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galland1 View Post
My master has a hole in the bottom. Push a small allen wrench in and pull.
+1. You don't need a lot of pressure.
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:47 AM   #21381
MoBill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rider_WV View Post
Fixed: Patience is a form of minor suffering disguised as a virtue

I must say the DL650 and WR make great stable mates. Will the super 10 be all that the DL is/was? i hope so but I will stick to my DL until the S-10 is proven and actually stateside.

Why not pick up another used "fun" bike to cover the big miles (and 7 months) until the S-10's show up? Something like a SV650, or a VFR800, or a cheap Versys, er6n, etc... something for $3k-ish that you can sell easily if the s-10 shows up in Nov.
I am thinking just that. Looking at SV650s, actually a nice 1000 for sale in the flea market. Hooligan fun. And a Tiger 1050 (2006) for 5300 in Norman OK.

Right with you. Fly and ride to Norman, OK is on my mind right now.
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:55 AM   #21382
Rider_WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
I am thinking just that. Looking at SV650s, actually a nice 1000 for sale in the flea market. Hooligan fun. And a Tiger 1050 (2006) for 5300 in Norman OK.

Right with you. Fly and ride to Norman, OK is on my mind right now.
A Fly and ride sounds fun!! Those tigers are nice bikes the seating position is almost identical to a DL.

I was lusting after a vrf in the flea market for a while. I finally came to my senses and stuck to shopping for the WR. The vfr would just get me a lot of tickets and tire changing I have to stick to underpowered over weight bikes for the sake of my insurance and marriage.
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:57 AM   #21383
bigdon
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Stabilizer installed and ready to rock. Pretty straight forward installation.

What kind of settings are you guys using for

Street


Rocks/gravel roads


Sand


Mudd

Thanks,your info can make my learning curve more flat.
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:32 AM   #21384
TrailDust&SaddleLthr
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Location: Southern Idaho, along the Oregon Trail
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Cheap Sh*t from China LOL

Quote:
Originally Posted by mordicai View Post
when you buy cheap junk chinese tools from harbor freight don't expect them to work well. If you want a stand that works well you will have to pay for it.
+1
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:26 PM   #21385
R_Lefebvre
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Anybody mounted Pelican 1430's or 1440's on the side of a WR?

I'm new to motorcycle camping, and have a 4 day ride coming up in a month. I can't decide what to do for luggage.

My preferred soft setup would be Wolfman Medium Rollie system. But I really kind of prefer a hard setup, better for around town, security, etc. The only thing holding me back is th potential for leg breakage when going off-road.
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:27 PM   #21386
OKDQ
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Central Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
I am thinking just that. Looking at SV650s, actually a nice 1000 for sale in the flea market. Hooligan fun. And a Tiger 1050 (2006) for 5300 in Norman OK.

Right with you. Fly and ride to Norman, OK is on my mind right now.
I know at this point this is just a wild-hare idea for you right now, but if you really get serious about coming to Norman, OK I'd be happy to meet you at the airport and give you a ride to Norman...maybe even buy you a beer while you're here.

DQ
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:25 PM   #21387
MoBill
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Sweet thanks...thats good stuff man...love how you put that--it is a wild hair...but I get those.
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:26 PM   #21388
EnderTheX
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Location: DFW Area, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdon View Post
Stabilizer installed and ready to rock. Pretty straight forward installation.

What kind of settings are you guys using for

Street


Rocks/gravel roads


Sand


Mudd

Thanks,your info can make my learning curve more flat.

Hey Don, I can speak to the settings I use for the F8, I haven't installed it on my WR just yet but I suspect I will follow the same routine...

I keep the sweep and high speed settings factory stock... you can play with these but you may want to research what they do (should be an instruction pamphlet with the stabilizer) and remember where you started so you can get back.

For the low speed damping I use these settings, generalized to a range of clicks... The general rule is the more likely your front tire is to deviate from the intended path the harder you set the damper.

Normal Street: Soft
Long Highway, wind, potholes: Medium
Normal Gravel: Medium
Deep or High Speed Gravel: Medium-Hard
Loose Rocks (including river crossing): Hard
Sand: Hard
Mud: Hard

COLD DAYS: before you start out on a cold day you may want to set the damper softer than normal, it will be stiff until it warms up with use. I almost dumped my F8 in the parking lot because of this
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:50 PM   #21389
bigdon
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My instructions say to start from 8 clicks off full clockwise so that's where mine is. It is supposed to be soft. If I'm thinking right all the way clockwise is full on hard. Back off 8 clicks and it does not give much adjustment from soft to hard.
What adjustment range do you use from soft to hard?
3 to med 6 to hard?

It's all new to me. Thanks for the help.
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Old 04-26-2011, 05:08 PM   #21390
EnderTheX
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Location: DFW Area, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdon View Post
My instructions say to start from 8 clicks off full clockwise so that's where mine is. It is supposed to be soft. If I'm thinking right all the way clockwise is full on hard. Back off 8 clicks and it does not give much adjustment from soft to hard.
What adjustment range do you use from soft to hard?
3 to med 6 to hard?

It's all new to me. Thanks for the help.

I use the 8 clicks off position as my "medium". At this point the pointer should be exactly opposite from the S-H engraving, or pointing along the length of the damper.

Since my F8 bars don't allow for full rotation of the pointer (a common problem with the F8 and something I could fix by shaving the pointer... but I don't want to because it prevents tampering)...

I am using 3 clicks to soft from medium as "soft" and 3 clicks to hard from medium as "hard".

I know this doesn't use the whole range but I've found it works great so far I wouldn't see the need to go softer than 11 clicks off but if you need to go harder than 5 clicks off you can always try it!



Which brings me to an issue with tampering... if you find someone random asshat has turned your knob (a crime punishable by death in most states) I would go back to full hard and click out again... I haven't tried to find full soft since I don't want to accidentally unscrew anything
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