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Old 01-21-2012, 12:37 PM   #26611
dhally
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kennewick, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhd1223 View Post
Eh, I've picked up the WR with my PMB rack with "just" the 4 bolts holding it and it's still straight and nothing broke. Do you really carry THAT much crap? I doubt you'll be experiencing much shear force on the bolts but I could be wrong. I mean, the suspension does work in an up-down motion, right? The way you show your items in that pictures having stuff over the edges will help prevent those side to side movements that would be most likely to damage the bolts. I think you've be find but don't take my word for it.
I'm not too worried about the vertical forces either. I guess the worst case would be falling over with the bags hung up on a tree or rock. I haven't even taken the fender off to see how the four bolts would attach. Maybe the bolts could be upsized.

I do want something more streamlined than the BBQ rack type, so it won't get in the way when trail riding without a rear bag.
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:42 PM   #26612
Pantah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftystrat62 View Post
Taking a quick look underneath,it seems that a bolt may be used to go into the frame which looked to be threaded-is that the case-or does it require a nut & bolt?
Would anyone know what type of bolts are used underneath,and how long?
Mine bolts up front, but the back of the skid plate has ears that fit on the cross brace near the shock linkage. There are no rear bolts on mine.
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Old 01-21-2012, 02:35 PM   #26613
leftystrat62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
M6 X 1.0, ~ 15-20 mm
mucho gracias senor
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:20 PM   #26614
johnnyadventurepants
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Hey guys, need help. I can't get one of my seat bolts out. It is half way out and it won't come out any more no matter how many times I turn it. It kind of flops around a little so I'm thinking that the metal threaded insert in the plastic seat pan came loose. What can I do? Just cut the head off the bolt and go from there?
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:44 PM   #26615
Daamud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyadventurepants View Post
Hey guys, need help. I can't get one of my seat bolts out. It is half way out and it won't come out any more no matter how many times I turn it. It kind of flops around a little so I'm thinking that the metal threaded insert in the plastic seat pan came loose. What can I do? Just cut the head off the bolt and go from there?
Think you'll need to cut it. Watch the heat if you grind it.





Waiting for more info........ I'm sure this has happened before.......
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:52 PM   #26616
PYG RYDR
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyadventurepants View Post
Hey guys, need help. I can't get one of my seat bolts out. It is half way out and it won't come out any more no matter how many times I turn it. It kind of flops around a little so I'm thinking that the metal threaded insert in the plastic seat pan came loose. What can I do? Just cut the head off the bolt and go from there?
Probably just has tension on it.

Try snapping small locking pliers onto, then turn counter clock wise and pull at the same time.
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Old 01-21-2012, 06:12 PM   #26617
bhd1223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyadventurepants View Post
Hey guys, need help. I can't get one of my seat bolts out. It is half way out and it won't come out any more no matter how many times I turn it. It kind of flops around a little so I'm thinking that the metal threaded insert in the plastic seat pan came loose. What can I do? Just cut the head off the bolt and go from there?
Is the other one is out and the insert pulled out of the seat then you should be able to lift the seat off. Then you can deal with the bolt and insert. Check this before anything. If not cut the head off the bolt, pull seat off, twist out remaining part of bolt, and replace the bolt.
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Old 01-21-2012, 06:47 PM   #26618
johnnyadventurepants
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!

Well I ended up cutting the head off and I got the seat off. I still can't get the other half of the bolt out! My gut tells me that all this bullshit is because the seat fit is so tight with the IMS tank on. I push forward on the seat while I try to get the bolts started and I might have angled the bolt? I can turn the bolt round and round with a small vise grip but I can't tell what's going on with the metal insert because I can't see anything.
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:07 PM   #26619
SR1
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(hopefully) a quick question for you guys..

I just bought an FMF Megabomb, Q4, and FMF programmer. I'm planning on gluing the airbox door open. Using the settings most folks recommend around here, do I need to worry about running lean/burning valves, or anything else bad? If so, how do I know if I'm doing it?


Read another way, is there a need for me to get the bike to a tuner, or can I set and forget, once I find some settings that perform well?
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:26 PM   #26620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SR1 View Post
I just bought an FMF Megabomb, Q4, and FMF programmer. I'm planning on gluing the airbox door open. Using the settings most folks recommend around here, do I need to worry about running lean/burning valves, or anything else bad? If so, how do I know if I'm doing it?


Read another way, is there a need for me to get the bike to a tuner, or can I set and forget, once I find some settings that perform well?
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:47 PM   #26621
HighFive
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SR1 View Post
I just bought an FMF Megabomb, Q4, and FMF programmer. I'm planning on gluing the airbox door open. Using the settings most folks recommend around here, do I need to worry about running lean/burning valves, or anything else bad? If so, how do I know if I'm doing it?


Read another way, is there a need for me to get the bike to a tuner, or can I set and forget, once I find some settings that perform well?
You'll be good to go. My Dyno runs with that combo indicated no danger of running too lean throughout the range. More of a problem with "too rich" particularly in the low rpm range. And the FMF unit does not provide a way to adjust fuel off idle & then some.

Let her buck!

HF
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:04 AM   #26622
bigdon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhally View Post
Are the racks with 4 bolts and spacers strong enough to carry a medium duffel over rough terrain at high speeds without bending the bolts? The OEM rack looks like it attaches more securely, but is it necessary?

Here's how I used to load the KTM, it would be nice if I could carry close to this much.

I have one of the 4 bolt racks on my WR. I have carried a 21# camping bag for probably 1,000 miles of dirt and gravel along the TART and the TAT with no problems! I hope I did not Jinx myself.



It has not all gone smoothly and the rack is still straight and tight!

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Old 01-22-2012, 10:11 AM   #26623
Rapid Dog
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...anyone out there have an OEM muffler shield they want to get rid of...cheap?
I might be offing my new Yosh RS2 pipe...
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:46 AM   #26624
flatboarder
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Originally Posted by dhally View Post
Here's how I used to load the KTM, it would be nice if I could carry close to this much.
Cannot tell about any additional racks, but I am sure, if the KTM could, the WR250R can do as well. Those old KTM LC4 used to have rear frames that were rather weak, no matter whether it was the steel version or the aluminium. And if the rear frame would hold up, the rear frame mounting nuts (welded to the main frame) broke. I had two of those LC4 and there were issues with both of them, even without putting any big additional load on the rear frame. I am very confident, the WR with its durable and solid rear frame installation would take up a bigger load than those old LC4.
Phil
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:21 AM   #26625
DougZ73
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Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
...anyone out there have an OEM muffler shield they want to get rid of...cheap?
I might be offing my new Yosh RS2 pipe...
Trade a stock heat shield for a Yoshi exhaust..I'll take that trade.
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