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Old 04-06-2012, 07:13 AM   #27931
Crawdaddy
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Ramona, CA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blown7.3lps View Post
crawdaddy:

would i have to change out my handle bars on either the scotts or GPR kits? they both look like the same new price of $495 for a full kit. on the GPR site i only see an option for fat bars.
I'm not sure but my hunch is "yes".......which is fine......the stock bars/mirrors are crap.......they belong on a Schwinn Stingray

I put on a Tusk Chub Bar for ~$40.....beefier/higher bend: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...7/-/19027/Tusk
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:11 AM   #27932
what broke now
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: seattle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Cup View Post
Gundy, just an educated guess but it is most likely the fuel pump. Never heard of a bad injector or throttle body but several have had fuel pumps go out or just loose necessary pressure. I replaced mine when it got hard to start and totally cured it.
For some perspective on this pump thing, over on the Husaberg 70 deg. thread, somebody just posted up they're on pump #3 on a 2010 450. We're not doing too bad with the wr.
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:11 AM   #27933
boogn1sh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
That is not how you hit a tree..this is how you hit a tree.

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Old 04-06-2012, 12:04 PM   #27934
Crawdaddy
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Location: Ramona, CA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
Welp, the exercise in frustration continues.......bike will bump start, then once warmed up will fire right up with magic button every time....... but it won't cold start.....

Not the spark plug though I thought for sure that would be the issue once I extracted the old plug......it was fugly





Not the coil (checked out at 1.5 w/in spec)

Not the side stand switch

Not the air cleaner

How hard is it to get at the throttle body/injectors?......wasn't clear to me?

Geez, maybe it is the valves........but woudnt it be hard to start EVERYTIME if valves were the issue?
Shop just called and said they did a leak down test and I'm loosing 90%......could be stuck valves?......could be bad valve seats/rings/piston?.......they want to check valves but are already talking about a possible rebuild if the valves aren't the issue.......seems odd to me?........once bumped the bike runs fine and once warmed up the bike starts easily off the magic button and runs fine with no apparent loss of power?

Yamaha shop speculates that once warmed up the leakage gaps are sealed which is why it runs fine AFTER the morning bump......bike has ~13K miles on it.....
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:20 PM   #27935
bhd1223
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: CT
Oddometer: 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
Shop just called and said they did a leak down test and I'm loosing 90%......could be stuck valves?......could be bad valve seats/rings/piston?.......they want to check valves but are already talking about a possible rebuild if the valves aren't the issue.......seems odd to me?........once bumped the bike runs fine and once warmed up the bike starts easily off the magic button and runs fine with no apparent loss of power?

Yamaha shop speculates that once warmed up the leakage gaps are sealed which is why it runs fine AFTER the morning bump......bike has ~13K miles on it.....
Sounds like it may be the time to add a big bore if you choose to rebuild. I'd shy away from doing or having any work done until the actual problem is found though.
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:24 PM   #27936
what broke now
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hard to see in your picture, but is that plug coked up, oily, or just black on the electrodes? Good running engines show light gray to light brown on the center insulator, with no black fluffy stuff on the electrodes. Was it starting to use oil?
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:27 PM   #27937
Crawdaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhd1223 View Post
Sounds like it may be the time to add a big bore if you choose to rebuild. I'd shy away from doing or having any work done until the actual problem is found though.
I hear you, I started reviewing High Five's Big Bore thread (again): http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=621532

BUT, I'm a rider NOT a mechanic.......I don't profess to have the skill set/patience/tools to do the job myself.......crap, that's a LOT of $$$ I don't have ("2" of my daughters are engaged to be married w/in the next 12 months)

They'll dig into the bike again next Wed......on vacation until then.....hoping it's just the valves......
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:53 PM   #27938
bigdon
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Crawdaddy
My DR 650 acted the same way after I had a high compression piston put on. It would not start when cold unless I jumped it with the truck. They started throwing parts( my money) at the bike. New battery, new starter, etc.
It seemed that I had a weak battery and the new one was also bad. It cost me a small fortune to get bike to start reliably. Once they finally figured out the new battery was weak it would start every time.
The bad part, I rode the bike about five miles from the house and burned a hole in the piston.
We got the head all cleaned up , put new valves in it, and the old piston. I sold it to a Bud that put about 15,000 miles on it and he sold it to another Bud. It's got about 45,000 miles on it now, and still running strong.

Be sure it has a good strong battery on it.
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Old 04-06-2012, 01:29 PM   #27939
Crawdaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by what broke now View Post
hard to see in your picture, but is that plug coked up, oily, or just black on the electrodes? Good running engines show light gray to light brown on the center insulator, with no black fluffy stuff on the electrodes. Was it starting to use oil?
I tossed the old plug but it seems to me that it was tan around the edges and black, but not oily, on the electrode......never noticed any usage of oil above and beyond......changed it every 3K and left it at that.....plenty in there on last change.....
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:09 PM   #27940
Mikef5000
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Columbus, OH
Oddometer: 2,030
Blew my first fork seal (2008 with 6k miles). Is there a preferred brand for replacement? The OEM's have a pretty poor reputation (don't know if it's the seal's fault or the fork design), are any of the aftermarkets known to be better? Seems to be quite a few brands available:
  • All Balls
  • Bike Master
  • Technical Touch
  • Race Tech
  • MSR
  • Tusk
  • Pro X
  • Pivot Works
  • K & L
  • Bikers Choice


A picture of the shenanigans leading up to my first blown seal
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:18 PM   #27941
Hetzel88
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Oddometer: 165
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
I tossed the old plug but it seems to me that it was tan around the edges and black, but not oily, on the electrode......never noticed any usage of oil above and beyond......changed it every 3K and left it at that.....plenty in there on last change.....
Check the valve clearances first. A tight valve could be your only problem.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:01 PM   #27942
debaisley
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Location: Rotterdam , NY
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I always use Tusk seals on all my bikes. for 12$ you cant go wrong. I replaced the stock WR ones with tusks and they have been good for 2 years now , I also use them on all my YZs which get put through some serious abuse.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:06 PM   #27943
AZ TOM
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Racetech seals. Well made.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:26 PM   #27944
DougZ73
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I go with Tusk and AllBallsracing products...so far so good.
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Old 04-06-2012, 06:41 PM   #27945
Sewerat
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Location: Brooksdale, ON
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Just brought our second wrr home today. This one is the evil twin to my mini bike.
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