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Old 11-27-2012, 07:22 AM   #31666
coresports
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
Makes sense. How many of you are doing the step with the oil bleed bolt?
not me
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:35 AM   #31667
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
I have one of the old, clear, 1 liter BPA Nalgene bottles with graduations, so I measure my oil. Takes a couple extra minutes, but no waste and I know the volume is correct.



It is well labelled as 4-stroke engine oil, and lives with the chemicals in the garage, so no worry about ingestion.
This works better--easy to clean out and use different oils--but it's not free like your nalgene bottle

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Old 11-27-2012, 08:40 AM   #31668
DaymienRules
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Most auto parts places (even walmart) sell a graduated funnel with plastic hose for a couple of bucks. Pour in 700ml, turn the valve, oil runs right in with no drips, repeat.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:47 AM   #31669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaymienRules View Post
Most auto parts places (even walmart) sell a graduated funnel with plastic hose for a couple of bucks. Pour in 700ml, turn the valve, oil runs right in with no drips, repeat.
That's what I use....
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:25 AM   #31670
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speedohealer

I have a 12 oclock labs speedo healer and was unsure about recalibrating it. Let's say I have it set up for a big tire and the correction factor is say 5%. Now I put a new, smaller tire on it. Do I need to clear out the calibration factor and and ride with the gps so I can find the new correction factor? Or can I just ride it with the gps and find the new correction and program that over the factor that is already in there? I have been doing the former, but it seems like it would be much easier to do the latter.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:32 AM   #31671
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
This works better--easy to clean out and use different oils--but it's not free like your nalgene bottle

Called a Ratio Rite

I think I prefer the Nalgene anyway, because I keep oil in it, so if I need a top-up, I don't have to get out a gallon jug. Also, I work in the driveway, and am paranoid about wind-blown junk getting into the crankcase. The Nalgene has a small opening and attached lid, so it is easy to keep covered. My oily funnel attracts dirt, so has to be cleaned each use, but the Nalgene doesn't.

When I recently serviced and put the WRR away for the season, it started raining while I was putting the new oil in, and I had to use my body to cover the exposed area.

I wrote "4-stroke" on the bottle because on the shelf next to it is 2-stroke oil and a smaller graduated container for measuring premix for the snow blower. I wouldn't mix them up, but you never know about the spousal unit.

Re: the oil check / bleed bolt on the left side, it seems odd to me as most bikes don't have it, but it is so quick and easy to do, I figure I may as well. Took me a few minutes to find the damn thing the first time.
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jon_l screwed with this post 11-27-2012 at 09:39 AM
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:44 AM   #31672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freetors View Post
I have a 12 oclock labs speedo healer and was unsure about recalibrating it. Let's say I have it set up for a big tire and the correction factor is say 5%. Now I put a new, smaller tire on it. Do I need to clear out the calibration factor and and ride with the gps so I can find the new correction factor? Or can I just ride it with the gps and find the new correction and program that over the factor that is already in there? I have been doing the former, but it seems like it would be much easier to do the latter.
I can email you the Speedohealer V4 manual if you need it; PM me an address.

You can use their on-line calculator http://www.healtech-electronics.com/

GPS is bound to be the most accurate way to check your settings, regardless of how you got them to begin with.

I have one on my bike, from the original owner, but I haven't touched it yet as I haven't installed the new rear tire yet.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:50 AM   #31673
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I have read through the manual and it didn't really answer my question. Let's say it's calibrated at 5% but I need it to be 8%. Could I just add 3% more to it or would I need to clear it and just put in 8%?
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:57 AM   #31674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew.pdx View Post
My old Harley specified a bleed with every oil change to let out any air cavitation (thats why they are up high). I did it faithfully.

I was hit and miss about it on my WRz until one time when it took a long time to get any oil to gurgle out of it. Since then I have done it every time. How far can you ride without oil where it is needed?
I've never even looked at the bolt in question and my wrr is sitting at a hair under 44,000 miles. Never had that much trouble with oil changes either though... pour in the first quart and a quarter of the second, top off as needed to get the oil level between the lines.
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:13 PM   #31675
sieg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd View Post
I've never even looked at the bolt in question and my wrr is sitting at a hair under 44,000 miles. Never had that much trouble with oil changes either though... pour in the first quart and a quarter of the second, top off as needed to get the oil level between the lines.
Whoa, dude you make life way to simple, you need to get totally anal about the little things so you won’t have time to put on all those miles.
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:19 PM   #31676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freetors View Post
I have read through the manual and it didn't really answer my question. Let's say it's calibrated at 5% but I need it to be 8%. Could I just add 3% more to it or would I need to clear it and just put in 8%?
I've always had to clear mine and start from scratch.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:04 PM   #31677
Longboardr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freetors View Post
I have read through the manual and it didn't really answer my question. Let's say it's calibrated at 5% but I need it to be 8%. Could I just add 3% more to it or would I need to clear it and just put in 8%?
If you need 8% correction that's the number you put into the SpeedoDRD. It erases what was previously programmed into it and uses the newest number you've programed into it.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:15 PM   #31678
MeefZah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd View Post
I've never even looked at the bolt in question and my wrr is sitting at a hair under 44,000 miles. Never had that much trouble with oil changes either though... pour in the first quart and a quarter of the second, top off as needed to get the oil level between the lines.
Surely your engine will be grenading any day now.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:46 PM   #31679
coresports
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michigan

well, mother nature brought her annual gift to michigan this past weekend.....i won't be changing my oil in here but
i will throw on my replacement levers that came in over the weekend....thanks cyclesector/aka disco...arrived as promised!
the 'little' r actually takes up very little room and makes a great conversation piece - who needs art!
now...where did i put my skii's !!


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Old 11-27-2012, 02:55 PM   #31680
MeefZah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coresports View Post
well, mother nature brought her annual gift to michigan this past weekend.....i won't be changing my oil in here but
i will throw on my replacement levers that came in over the weekend....thanks cyclesector/aka disco...arrived as promised!
the 'little' r actually takes up very little room and makes a great conversation piece - who needs art!
now...where did i put my skii's !!
For a few weeks last winter I had a WRR and a KLX250 in my living room, I needed them inside so I could swap bars and other stuff off the KLX and onto the Yamaha and restore the KLX to stock in preparation for selling it.

My wife didn't really mind the bikes in there, and the kids thought it was funny that they were inside.

I racked myself pretty badly on one of the bikes while running through the house in the dark on the way to a midnight squad run. You haven't experienced pain until you get surprised whacked in the balls by a barkbuster.

Might I suggest a night light until you get used to it being there?
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