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Old 12-06-2012, 07:44 PM   #31771
freetors
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Collinsville, OK
Oddometer: 759
Quote:
Originally Posted by livetofly View Post
I'm just curious what's the most popular gearing out there for a WRX that is riddent about 70/30 street/dirt? Mine came with 13/47 combination, but I plan on replacing chain and sprockets soon. I'm thinking I might like a combination that would run at a little less rpm at hwy speeds (65-70mph), even if it gave up some of the low end acceleration.
I have a 14/49, but I also have a maxxis desert IT on the back so it's like having a 14/47-48. I would like to have a couple less teeth on the back, but my bike doesn't have the power to pull any more in strong headwinds.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:29 AM   #31772
jrou111
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Location: Birmingham, AL
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So anyone seen anything like this? While negotiating single track on a recent ride, I felt a POP under my bike. I just thought it was a stick or something, so I didn't pay it any attention. I did feel like I had less rear braking power, but I wrote it off as them just being worn out or overheated. Then, on my ride Sunday, I noticed a LOT of pedal travel was needed to lock up the rear brakes.

So last night after replacing the rear sprocket and putting in new pads, I looked at the rear brake pedal and found this



Now I'm trying to figure out where I can get another soon. Been looking through the parts books but can't find it in the online micro-fiche. Any help guys???
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:43 AM   #31773
Nice_Rumble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrou111 View Post

Any help guys???
http://www.freedomcyclenh.com/fiche_...008&fveh=18085

You need part:

#20 BRACKET, MASTER CYLI
3D7-2133F-00-00 1 $8.29

Order one from your local Yamaha dealer.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:59 AM   #31774
jrou111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble View Post
http://www.freedomcyclenh.com/fiche_...008&fveh=18085

You need part:

#20 BRACKET, MASTER CYLI
3D7-2133F-00-00 1 $8.29

Order one from your local Yamaha dealer.
Cool, Thanks!
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:34 AM   #31775
japako
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You can also try Ebay. The master for your bike is the same for many other models. I was looking the other day and there were two for the wrr.

I should add, the brackets are usually with them, and Yamaha takes 5 to 6 days after the purchase to arrive at my dealer.

japako screwed with this post 12-08-2012 at 09:44 AM
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:03 AM   #31776
Mikef5000
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Looks like an extremely easy part to fix, can't you just take it to a weld shop? Seems like it'd be much quicker and cheaper.
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:52 PM   #31777
jrou111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikef5000 View Post
Looks like an extremely easy part to fix, can't you just take it to a weld shop? Seems like it'd be much quicker and cheaper.
It's pot metal or pretty close.

I ordered a replacement from my local dealer. I was only $8.
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:08 PM   #31778
KansasBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrou111 View Post
It's pot metal or pretty close.

I ordered a replacement from my local dealer. I was only $8.
Damn! I didn't think a dealership would take the pen out of their pocket to write down the number for less than 9 bucks!

I'm impressed.

Do you have any idea what happened. Seems like a strange part to break? Defiantly not "pot metal", stamped steel for sure.

Is there any sign that something hit it?

KansasBob screwed with this post 12-08-2012 at 01:14 PM
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:10 PM   #31779
skierd
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Fairbanks, AK
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I'm running 13/45 gearing on my WRR with X wheels and a 150/70-17 rear tire and find the gearing about perfect for the higher speed touring I tend to have to do to get anywhere. Its also extremely close to stock... the only time I have trouble is on tight single track where frankly I shouldn't be taking a bike with street slicks anyway.

When my bike was still an R, I ran 13/47 gearing with a D606, which overall is pretty close to stock as well.

I've found the IMS 3.1 fits my needs perfectly, even in the wide open spaces of Alaska, assuming I'm sticking to the main-ish roads. For the Dalton I carried an extra 2gal gas can on the back rack. If I was spending the majority of my time in the southwest deserts, I'd probably want the 4.7.
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:44 PM   #31780
jrou111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post
Damn! I didn't think a dealership would take the pen out of their pocket to write down the number for less than 9 bucks!

I'm impressed.

Do you have any idea what happened. Seems like a strange part to break? Defiantly not "pot metal", stamped steel for sure.

Is there any sign that something hit it?

It's really crappy quality steel, IMHO. If I welded it, I'd be afraid of just burning right through it.

As far as what happened, I was on single track on the side of a mountain with lots of switchbacks. I was on the rear brakes for most of the day.

I think it was around 8:35 on this video that it happened:




That's a WR-X btw
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:22 PM   #31781
leftystrat62
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Can this Scott's Steering Dampener be moved under my bars on my WR?

I purchased this 2010 Yamaha WR250R with this Scott's dampener on it. It originally had the stock bars but I needed more height. I was concerned that by putting risers on it to achieve the necessary height my dampener would not work. I added Pro Taper contour ATV High bend bars (as pictures)that did bring it up a bit higher,but I'm still not happy with it after a season of riding with this set up.
I'd like to buy a set of risers and put the Scott's under the bars if possible,but am not sure if I need a different Scott's dampener to accomplish that? If I CAN use mine,do I need to buy some sort of bracket to mount it under the bars? The problem is that I'm bent over too much while standing and it's causing me much to much back pain. I hate to throw more $ at this,but I need to address this problem so I can enjoy my bike more pain free. Hope you guys can help.

[IMG]Photobucket[/IMG]
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:25 PM   #31782
leftystrat62
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[IMG]Photobucket[/IMG]
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:48 PM   #31783
Gryphon12
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I'm not sure I've ever heard why people feel the need for a damper on the WRR, given its mild power and steering geometry, but the solution is to sell that version and get an under-bar damper. Search earlier in this thread.
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:13 PM   #31784
duanew1
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Location: Huntsville, AL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrou111 View Post
It's really crappy quality steel, IMHO. If I welded it, I'd be afraid of just burning right through it.

As far as what happened, I was on single track on the side of a mountain with lots of switchbacks. I was on the rear brakes for most of the day.

I think it was around 8:35 on this video that it happened:


That's a WR-X btw
Wow! That was a great video. Your group sure did find a lot of abandoned places on that ride. Is that near Birmingham? Those look like some interesting places.
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Old 12-08-2012, 05:07 PM   #31785
10Cup
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Location: NW Arkansas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gryphon12 View Post
I'm not sure I've ever heard why people feel the need for a damper on the WRR, given its mild power and steering geometry, but the solution is to sell that version and get an under-bar damper. Search earlier in this thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftystrat62 View Post
[IMG]
The under bar mound raises the bars just right. I think the Scotts is the best addition I have done to my bike. Recommended.
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