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Old 12-29-2012, 06:08 PM   #32116
scottmac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shep546 View Post


Really thinking of ordering these side panels... only thing is I don't really feel they are worth the price.
Those are really nice. The right panel looks like it can do the job of a heat panel too by keeping your gear off of
the pipe. Sure wish they were cheaper.
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:40 PM   #32117
Joe Watson
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Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
What that thing that is in the line of sight on your buddies bike?
Hey mate. That is is front brake line. It is an aftermarket braided one.
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:49 PM   #32118
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Did the AIS removal and air box flapper mod today, quite simple and really only took an hour tops. Made my own block-off plate with a scrap of aluminum bar stock I had laying around and lock-tited it down for good measure

While I had the bodywork off I took the time to install a battery tender lead. Tucked in in nice & tight, real clean.

Tucked the fuse behind the battery strap, ran the wire up the plastic tray, added a couple zip ties and used a Velcro strap to tie it up under the subframe. You don't even know its there.

Also got the Shinko 244 tires on, looks mean! Can't wait to ride, too bad we got 4" of snow the past couple of days.


More mods to come of course....
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:07 PM   #32119
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Which are they?


Quote:
Originally Posted by shep546 View Post


Really thinking of ordering these side panels... only thing is I don't really feel they are worth the price.
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:32 AM   #32120
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Originally Posted by krussell View Post
I'm trying to decide what sort of rear rack to put on my WRR. While the billet racks look nice, I'm concerned about the small mounting area. I really like the mounting approach of the TCI Borrego, seems much more distributed/robust. At some point, in addition to the rear rack, I think I'm going to add a Wolfman saddlebag setup with racks. I have several questions for folks who have used any of these.

1) Anyone use a billet rack and had it break the mount point?
2) Anyone use a TCI Borrego AND the wolfman racks?

My plan is to get the Borrego with a hard case bracket and use a small pelican box for around town. Then for longer trips ditch the top case and use a wolfman saddlebag setup along with a dry bag across the top.

Another option would be a Giant loop setup instead of the wolfman, which eliminates any rack conflict, I think.

Any suggestions or experience would be appreciated.
I installed a pro-motion billet rack on my 2011 WRR last February. Since then I've ran almost 5000 miles on the little bike and most of that was with some wight on the rack. Did about 2000 miles on the UTBDR with a Large Ortlieb dry bag bungied to the rack on top of a 1 gallon rotopax. I also ran with a Giant Loop Coyote, probably too much stuff, but the rack held all that- over some pretty nasty territory sometimes. I don't think I even worn through the powder coat and the rack still is in fine shape.

I was worried also about how much you could put on one with that little mounting point surface area, but it's actually a pretty stout part of the rear subframe. Not saying you couldn't bend it, but my guess is the force needed to bend it would bend like most any other rack I've seen - and would most likely would tweak the rear subframe also (not the end of the world though).

Not saying a billet rack is the best option for you, but I wouldn't worry about the stoutness unless you were really into dual sporting bigger loads on tight trails.
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:38 AM   #32121
clapped_r6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_PDX View Post
I don't think I even worn through the powder coat and the rack still is in fine shape.
i believe it's anodised, not powder coated. anyways, +1, i had a promoto billet rack on my 250r and it was money. super strong and stuff
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:24 AM   #32122
HardWorkingDog
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Originally Posted by clapped_r6 View Post
i believe it's anodised, not powder coated. anyways, +1, i had a promoto billet rack on my 250r and it was money. super strong and stuff
Yup, good rack. I did manage to wear through the anodizing in one place when a bottle of Fat Tire worked it's way through to the bottom of my dry bag. The cap ate through the bag and then started working on the rack before I realized it.

Patched the bag (thanks, Wolfman!) and the rack is still good. Just carries a reminder for me about how NOT to carry beer...
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:51 AM   #32123
ba_
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New bars, new grips

I just installed new Renthal Fatbars and am about to install a set of Pro Grip 714's. I don't really like how narrow (left to right) the throttle grip has become after cutting off part of the throttle tube (I did this a while back on the OEM bars) to put on hand guards.

Since my new bars have more area to mount controls on the flats could I buy a new throttle assembly and not have to cut any of the throttle tube? I'm thinking that coupled with the wider (left to right) 714's will allow me a more comfortable hand position. Or should I just buy an aftermarket throttle tube and call it a day?

Thoughts?

Also does anyone know if the grip assembly shown here as part 2 comes with the RH grip on the throttle tube already?

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Old 12-30-2012, 07:03 AM   #32124
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yeah Brad, you can just buy a new throttle tube and install it in the throttle assembly, easy peasy. My guess is is does not come with the grip. You can always buy another set of 714's and put a new one on the right side too. They are cheap enough, that I usually buy a couple sets a time, since I change bars alot.....well used too. Also, inevitably, a buddy will see and feel those grips and want a set....so I hook them up.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:20 AM   #32125
shep546
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Originally Posted by Attico View Post
Which are they?
They are made by a Japanese company called zero-g. Unfortunately they can only be bought their and after the cost plus shipping you're looking at about $300 for them
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:25 AM   #32126
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Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
They are made by a Japanese company called zero-g. Unfortunately they can only be bought their and after the cost plus shipping you're looking at about $300 for them

I know they are only cosmetic but those side panels make the WR look a lot better. Maybe a group buy to save shipping costs? Now I need to buy a WR to put these on
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:29 AM   #32127
ba_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
yeah Brad, you can just buy a new throttle tube and install it in the throttle assembly, easy peasy. My guess is is does not come with the grip. You can always buy another set of 714's and put a new one on the right side too. They are cheap enough, that I usually buy a couple sets a time, since I change bars alot.....well used too. Also, inevitably, a buddy will see and feel those grips and want a set....so I hook them up.
I haven't touched the 714s so I'm good there. I didn't see a RH grip on the fiche but I will look again
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:33 AM   #32128
MeefZah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
I just installed new Renthal Fatbars and am about to install a set of Pro Grip 714's. I don't really like how narrow (left to right) the throttle grip has become after cutting off part of the throttle tube (I did this a while back on the OEM bars) to put on hand guards.

Since my new bars have more area to mount controls on the flats could I buy a new throttle assembly and not have to cut any of the throttle tube? I'm thinking that coupled with the wider (left to right) 714's will allow me a more comfortable hand position. Or should I just buy an aftermarket throttle tube and call it a day?

Thoughts?

Also does anyone know if the grip assembly shown here as part 2 comes with the RH grip on the throttle tube already?
My throttle tube is like 1/2" to 1" shorter than the grip. The previous owner chopped it short to mount cheap barkbusters. When I replaced the bars and the barkbusters with better stuff I found it. Surprisingly, the shorter plastic under the grip doesn't cause any sort of control issues,comfort issues, nor is it visible (the grip diameter is the same and doesn't taper down where there is no throttle tube under). I would (and have) just mount up a new grip over top of the shorter throttle tube and let the end of the grip hang off the short end of the throttle tube.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:36 AM   #32129
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Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
My throttle tube is like 1/2" to 1" shorter than the grip. The previous owner chopped it short to mount cheap barkbusters. When I replaced the bars and the barkbusters with better stuff I found it. Surprisingly, the shorter plastic under the grip doesn't cause any sort of control issues,comfort issues, nor is it visible (the grip diameter is the same and doesn't taper down where there is no throttle tube under). I would (and have) just mount up a new grip over top of the shorter throttle tube and let the end of the grip hang off the short end of the throttle tube.

Instead of chopping the throttle tube for various hand guards I drill the center of the tube so it retains the full length and still allows for the hand guard hardware. I think Motion Pro makes an aftermarket throttle tube with no grip installed? They did for my DRZ
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:38 AM   #32130
MeefZah
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Originally Posted by bobbed06 View Post
Instead of chopping the throttle tube for various hand guards I drill the center of the tube so it retains the full length and still allows for the hand guard hardware. I think Motion Pro makes an aftermarket throttle tube with no grip installed? They did for my DRZ
I suppose you could drill the end but realistically, if you perpendicular cut like 1mm of the plastic off the end, the hollow core is exposed. I think drilling would be a lot more time consuming. My post was just designed to communicate that it's probably not necessary to replace the throttle tube even though the PO cut it way shorter than need be.
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