ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-31-2013, 08:16 AM   #32851
UtahFox
Gnarly Adventurer
 
UtahFox's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Salt Lake City
Oddometer: 446
Quote:
Originally Posted by ggemelos View Post
I noticed a lot of people in this thread have replaced the stock bars with aftermarket bars. What is the main reason for doing so, is it ergonomics or are aftermarket bars less prone to damage during a crash? Given that most aftermarket bars are aluminum and the stock are steel, I would have thought the stock would be stronger. Thanks for the feedback.
In a word? MacGyver.
UtahFox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 08:28 AM   #32852
ba_
Beastly Adventurer
 
ba_'s Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Westchester County, New York
Oddometer: 2,523
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
Just snug against nut. Should give plenty of room to get on the washer and clip through there. Clip will keep nut from coming off if it loosens up. Also, it is a pivot point, so remember to lubricate( I like waterproof bearing grease) the shoulder of the bolt( non threaded) section, where the lever pivots on.
+1 on the grease. I was going to use waterproof grease

I was referring to bolt 2 in this diagram:



I'm not sure what nut you are referring to
__________________
2009 Triumph Bonneville 50th Anniversary, 2014 KTM 690 Enduro R
ba_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 08:59 AM   #32853
MeefZah
Curmudgeonly
 
MeefZah's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Location: New Philadelphia, Ohio
Oddometer: 10,467
Quote:
Originally Posted by ggemelos View Post
I noticed a lot of people in this thread have replaced the stock bars with aftermarket bars. What is the main reason for doing so, is it ergonomics or are aftermarket bars less prone to damage during a crash? Given that most aftermarket bars are aluminum and the stock are steel, I would have thought the stock would be stronger. Thanks for the feedback.
More bend resistant in a crash or a drop.
__________________
"A man turns his back on the comforts of home, and when the dust all settles and the story is told, history is made by the side of the road..." - DBT

My Smugmug Galleries
MeefZah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 09:10 AM   #32854
Longboardr
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Longboardr's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: south central PA
Oddometer: 143
Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
I was referring to bolt 2 in this diagram:
That looks to be a shoulder bolt, you can tighten to your hearts content. The shoulder of the bolt hits what you're tightening it against and stops you from being able to pinch/bind the pedal from over tightening.
Longboardr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 09:13 AM   #32855
DougZ73
Fading off.........
 
DougZ73's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: NJ
Oddometer: 6,812
Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
+1 on the grease. I was going to use waterproof grease

I was referring to bolt 2 in this diagram:



I'm not sure what nut you are referring to
Too many bikes I work on...KTM has nut on backside. WRR threads into frame boss.

Still same advice....just snug....washer and clip will keep bolt from working itself out. If worried, and I think I did this on mine, a small drop of blue(medium) thread locker on bolt. Threaded aluminum is not too strong, so I'd be surprised if torque spec( for that bolt) was any higher than 8-9 ft/lbs.
__________________
Skyline Drive 11/2010 , Catskills 2010 trip, Catskills 2011 , Southern TNJT, 2011
DougZ's MTB thread , DZ Moto Photo Bloggin' , (my) Learning photography thread, DougZ vids
- Ryder Joseph Z. , Born 11/26/12-- the next Adventure: Grayson Hunter Z., born 5/3/14
DougZ73 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 09:51 AM   #32856
jon_l
Beastly Adventurer
 
jon_l's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Collingwood, Ontario
Oddometer: 2,816
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefyInertia View Post
Huh?

You can use whatever rotor on the front and whatever sprocket you want on the rear regardless of wheel size. Wheel size itself does not have a direct impact on caliper location or chain length.

I have a set of 17s for my WRR that swap out in 10 mins. 17s with sticky rubber dot compare to a 21/18 set up with ok street rubber.

My bike is set up for dirt but I can run a good pace at the motard track without adjusting the suspension, but I'm light.
Maybe I misspoke? The WRX caliper and rotor is different than the WRR. I guess with a custom wheel set up correctly, you can swap easier.

It is hard to imagine that dropping the front 2" wouldn't have an impact on handling. When lowering the bike using the shock clevis, everyone raises the forks 1/2"-3/4" to compensate. Lowering amount is a smaller change that 21">17" front swap.
__________________
'09 Honda CBF1000; '09 Yamaha WR250R
jon_l is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 10:18 AM   #32857
ba_
Beastly Adventurer
 
ba_'s Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Westchester County, New York
Oddometer: 2,523
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboardr View Post
That looks to be a shoulder bolt, you can tighten to your hearts content. The shoulder of the bolt hits what you're tightening it against and stops you from being able to pinch/bind the pedal from over tightening.
Thanks

Just make sure you remove the clip off the back before removing the bolt (oops).
__________________
2009 Triumph Bonneville 50th Anniversary, 2014 KTM 690 Enduro R
ba_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 10:45 AM   #32858
DougZ73
Fading off.........
 
DougZ73's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: NJ
Oddometer: 6,812
Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
Thanks

Just make sure you remove the clip off the back before removing the bolt (oops).
LOL....yeah.
__________________
Skyline Drive 11/2010 , Catskills 2010 trip, Catskills 2011 , Southern TNJT, 2011
DougZ's MTB thread , DZ Moto Photo Bloggin' , (my) Learning photography thread, DougZ vids
- Ryder Joseph Z. , Born 11/26/12-- the next Adventure: Grayson Hunter Z., born 5/3/14
DougZ73 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 12:37 PM   #32859
UtahFox
Gnarly Adventurer
 
UtahFox's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Salt Lake City
Oddometer: 446
FMF Powerbomb.

I'm curious, if you just install this header, does it increase the bikes' HP? I'm also wondering about the volume, does that increase a lot as well?
UtahFox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 02:34 PM   #32860
TwilightZone
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Behind the Redwood Curtain
Oddometer: 2,723
>"I'm curious, if you just install this header, does it increase the bikes' HP?"

I think the bike reaches max RPM's much easier. Without the header I didn't reach the cutoff-rpm very easily. After the header, it winds much easier to the cutoff point. I also think the header improved the torque through the powerband... (and quite a bit). But I don't think it made much of a difference on the max hp. Am running a quiet spark arrestor, more with the exhaust open... I dunno. (see below)

>"I'm also wondering about the volume, does that increase a lot as well? "

Didn't really notice anything in the volume. I'm running the header with a Q4 exhaust... and an install of the 'Powercore' spark arrestor (the quiet one I can't remember the part number, somewhere here in the thread).

IMHO: Pretty reasonable noise levels.
__________________
"I don't really know, I've been too busy falling down."
TwilightZone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 03:45 PM   #32861
DefyInertia
Saratogian
 
DefyInertia's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 153
Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Maybe I misspoke? The WRX caliper and rotor is different than the WRR. I guess with a custom wheel set up correctly, you can swap easier.

It is hard to imagine that dropping the front 2" wouldn't have an impact on handling. When lowering the bike using the shock clevis, everyone raises the forks 1/2"-3/4" to compensate. Lowering amount is a smaller change that 21">17" front swap.
Got it, I didn't get that you meant X swap. I would say buy the x wheel and an R rotor if not wanting to mess with the caliper/MC stuff. Don't really need custom and incremental cost is small. Stoppies all day and fine for street, but my brake hand does get awful tired at the motard track.

Yes it impacts handling, it handles like the X. Whoot! Lower over all with lower front relative to R. This is a good thing, not something that needs to be compensated for like when simply lowering the R for a shorter rider.

My point is, I have sportsman set ups and tard setups, the 17s are the way to go (for second set) IMO and an easy swap.
__________________
There's a feeling I get when I look to the West...
DefyInertia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 04:14 PM   #32862
Llamaha
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Melbourne Australia
Oddometer: 733
I am thinking of purchasing the 21/18 set for my WRX from wheeling cycle supply, anyone here had any issues with these? It will have to be a straight swap kit or I won't have the time to swap them ever. Can I use the same chain?
Llamaha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 04:44 PM   #32863
Jungle Man
frenzied adventurer
 
Jungle Man's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Camas Washington
Oddometer: 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by Llamaha View Post
I am thinking of purchasing the 21/18 set for my WRX from wheeling cycle supply, anyone here had any issues with these? It will have to be a straight swap kit or I won't have the time to swap them ever. Can I use the same chain?
I've heard good things about wheeling cycle supply.
I got my warp 9's new on ebay. They are a direct swap out and only $719 total. They seem to be stout; have handled bouncing on rocks with a flat for a few seconds, and a few hard hits.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPLETE-WHE...b201b5&vxp=mtr
__________________
50% of our maintenance is caused by 50% of our maintenance.
-Dave
Ride it like you stole it
"If you're too busy to hunt and fish, you're too busy"
Jase-Duck Dynasty
Jungle Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 05:40 PM   #32864
thumpididump
MacGyver
 
thumpididump's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Germany
Oddometer: 2,425
I've got the 18/21 SM Pro kit on my X and they are indeed a direct swap. I also bought OEM brake rotors to save me the hassle of swapping those when I want to switch back and forth between street and dirt. Makes it real easy, and the larger diameter rotor up front offers great stopping power. I also bought a 49T sprocket for the rear wheel, and I use a 110 link chain.

You can use the same chain as long as you use the same size rear sprocket, but for dirt, you'll probably want 3 or 4 extra teeth in the rear.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Llamaha View Post
I am thinking of purchasing the 21/18 set for my WRX from wheeling cycle supply, anyone here had any issues with these? It will have to be a straight swap kit or I won't have the time to swap them ever. Can I use the same chain?
__________________
"You can't put the shit back in the donkey." --Tony Soprano

FY-YFF
2014 KTM 690 Enduro R
thumpididump is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 07:04 PM   #32865
Llamaha
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Melbourne Australia
Oddometer: 733
Thank you very much for the responses guys, I think it will give it the green light :)

Llamaha screwed with this post 01-31-2013 at 07:51 PM
Llamaha is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 11:38 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014