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Old 02-12-2013, 12:22 PM   #33106
BlueLghtning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
I may be getting these tires soon and making the WRR into a part time commuter bike. The front listing for these tires on RMATV are 2.75, 3.00, & 3.25 X 21". Stock tire size is 80/100-21. Rim is a 1.6 X 21".

Which front tire size to get??
Did you see my post above? I would strongly urge you to look at the Shinko 244's instead of the Kenda 270's. You'll have better pavement cornering characteristics on the 244's and they are cheaper than the 270's.

As for the front tire size, I think the 3.00 should be fine. I believe that is the direct cross over from the 80/100-21.
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:31 PM   #33107
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>"Is there any way to display a tach, or do I need to install an add on computer for that?"

Not sure what you'd need a tach for on a thumper... heck, just ride it.
If you hit the red line the engine will cut out, pretty soon you will find out where the power is in the rpm range.

That said, if you go into the diag mode to set the CO level, it will display a tach... but only until you turn the key off, then the tach goes away. I rode with mine on for a bit though and found out heck, the engine is making a lot of rpm!

>"Thanks! The spoke wrench gauge is a good idea."

I think the spoke wrench is likely wrong if your sprockets are not the stock size. I have my son sit on the bike and check the chain for clearance in the mid range (swing arm compressed to level - max distance). I use that to determine the settings, just tight in the mid range.

I am running 14x50 sprockets and the guide is lasting, probably need to replace it in 8 to 10 thou miles.
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:39 PM   #33108
DougZ73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
Did you see my post above? I would strongly urge you to look at the Shinko 244's instead of the Kenda 270's. You'll have better pavement cornering characteristics on the 244's and they are cheaper than the 270's.

As for the front tire size, I think the 3.00 should be fine. I believe that is the direct cross over from the 80/100-21.
Nope..I must have missed it. I am on here less now, and have much shorter windows of surfing time.

I'll look into the Shinko's. How are they in the sand, if you know??
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:14 PM   #33109
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Dave, would not worry on oil change on way home. The rear spring is pretty stiff, stock & I would set at 4 inches for the weight. Also make sure it has at least a 13 tooth front sprocket & for your ride a 14 might even be better. WR 250F sprockets will fit as well. Your Seat Concepts seat will be a big plus on your ride. Have a great ride.
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:39 PM   #33110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
Nope..I must have missed it. I am on here less now, and have much shorter windows of surfing time.

I'll look into the Shinko's. How are they in the sand, if you know??
They are okay. Sand comes in so many different flavors its hard to generalize. Soft Sugary sand is more about technique than tires. Really paddle tires would do best there, but that's not feasible on the trail. More aggressive tires do dig in better, but means you need to keep your momentum higher so that you don't sink in as far. In wet stand, more aggressive tires to better, but 50/50 tires don't do bad. About the only place these tires really lack is mud and that's a given for most 50/50 tires. They sure do beat out street tires though in the mud.

Offroad, the Kenda 270's & Shinko 244's pretty much handle all off road terrain the same if not a slight edge to the Shinko's since their lugs are larger and more substantial.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:04 PM   #33111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
They are okay. Sand comes in so many different flavors its hard to generalize. Soft Sugary sand is more about technique than tires. Really paddle tires would do best there, but that's not feasible on the trail. More aggressive tires do dig in better, but means you need to keep your momentum higher so that you don't sink in as far. In wet stand, more aggressive tires to better, but 50/50 tires don't do bad. About the only place these tires really lack is mud and that's a given for most 50/50 tires. They sure do beat out street tires though in the mud.

Offroad, the Kenda 270's & Shinko 244's pretty much handle all off road terrain the same if not a slight edge to the Shinko's since their lugs are larger and more substantial.
OK, thanks for the info. As cheap as they are, no reason not to try them over the Kenda's.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:32 PM   #33112
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you can see this over in the Flea Mkt. for sale[IMG] photo DSCN1254_zps89c36a65.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:26 PM   #33113
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The rear shock on this bike is such a 'shocker' I don't know what to do about it.... I live in Australia and can't easily send it off to the guy in the USA for repairs. Does anyone know what the problem with it is that needs fixing? When I come off speed bumps or whatnot the bike bounces at the rear and feels really unsafe. It's even worse when I'm 2-up.

If I know what the problem is perhaps I could order the parts online then save a bit of money at the suspension shop. Alternatively is there an Ohlins option that anyone knows about?
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:15 PM   #33114
Gonzo_Matt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
Did you see my post above? I would strongly urge you to look at the Shinko 244's instead of the Kenda 270's. You'll have better pavement cornering characteristics on the 244's and they are cheaper than the 270's.

As for the front tire size, I think the 3.00 should be fine. I believe that is the direct cross over from the 80/100-21.
I'll second this. I've ridden on both tires and prefer the 244.

I've owned my WRR for about a month now, and between working non stop, building a house, and our 6 month old son, I haven't had too many opportunities to ride it. It managed to put in 200+ miles under me on Sunday exploring around the great state of Ohio with Alansz400.....a few highlights:





I don't know why i didn't buy one of these things a long time ago...
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:00 AM   #33115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Llamaha View Post
The rear shock on this bike is such a 'shocker' I don't know what to do about it.... I live in Australia and can't easily send it off to the guy in the USA for repairs. Does anyone know what the problem with it is that needs fixing? When I come off speed bumps or whatnot the bike bounces at the rear and feels really unsafe. It's even worse when I'm 2-up.

If I know what the problem is perhaps I could order the parts online then save a bit of money at the suspension shop. Alternatively is there an Ohlins option that anyone knows about?
The main problem is a severe lack of rebound damping. Racetech has a shock option, not sure if they have dealers in Australia or not. Any good local dirt shop should be able to rebuild and attempt revalving it, or install racetech's kit. Travis at Go-Race is very good about email too, maybe you can buy the shim kit itself? Worst case, international shipping isn't any worse than shipping from Alaska to the lower 48 with UPS and its going to be about $50-60 for me to send my shock via air.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:09 AM   #33116
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I've recieved a PM about this, and its gotten me wondering...

How long do you think the WR250R/X motor should last before needing an overhaul? Mine's sitting at just under 43,000 miles, and looks like it needs a top end (might just be a piston, rings, and valve adjustment, might require head work) and frankly I always figured I'd have about 40-50k miles before it needed work so its in the correct range. If yours makes it to 45,000, would you be disappointed? Ok with it? Happy it made it that long (crawdaddy )?
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:58 AM   #33117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd View Post
I've recieved a PM about this, and its gotten me wondering...

How long do you think the WR250R/X motor should last before needing an overhaul? Mine's sitting at just under 43,000 miles, and looks like it needs a top end (might just be a piston, rings, and valve adjustment, might require head work) and frankly I always figured I'd have about 40-50k miles before it needed work so its in the correct range. If yours makes it to 45,000, would you be disappointed? Ok with it? Happy it made it that long (crawdaddy )?
I was thinking if mine made 35 or 40k on the top end I would be real happy considering its use. Compared to my KLR 40k would be great. I am at 39k on my KLR and it is on its second top end already. It runs great but 2nd top end is starting starting to burn a lot of oil again.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:47 AM   #33118
ADWrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
They are okay. Sand comes in so many different flavors its hard to generalize. Soft Sugary sand is more about technique than tires. Really paddle tires would do best there, but that's not feasible on the trail. More aggressive tires do dig in better, but means you need to keep your momentum higher so that you don't sink in as far. In wet stand, more aggressive tires to better, but 50/50 tires don't do bad. About the only place these tires really lack is mud and that's a given for most 50/50 tires. They sure do beat out street tires though in the mud.

Offroad, the Kenda 270's & Shinko 244's pretty much handle all off road terrain the same if not a slight edge to the Shinko's since their lugs are larger and more substantial.
Great to hear so many reassuring things about the 244's. I picked up a WRx last fall that came with a set of these tires in addition to the stock street Bridgestones. My brother picked up a set of Warp9 18/21 with off-road tires for his WRx, I was hoping I wouldn't suffer too much with the 244's on 17" wheels. From what I've read so far it's a pretty decent setup. As an added bonus it sounds like the 244's are also fairly flat-resistant since they have a bit stiffer sidewall and taller profile.

Can't wait for the snow to melt a bit so I can ride the thing!
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:57 AM   #33119
DougZ73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Llamaha View Post
The rear shock on this bike is such a 'shocker' I don't know what to do about it.... I live in Australia and can't easily send it off to the guy in the USA for repairs. Does anyone know what the problem with it is that needs fixing? When I come off speed bumps or whatnot the bike bounces at the rear and feels really unsafe. It's even worse when I'm 2-up.

If I know what the problem is perhaps I could order the parts online then save a bit of money at the suspension shop. Alternatively is there an Ohlins option that anyone knows about?
Silly question, but have you adjusted the stock rebound damper setting to max yet? ( 3 clicks from bottom). Doing that initially made my bike feel totally differently. I still needed more, so I ended up sending my shock to a well know suspension guys here in NJ....who has also done a bunch of these shocks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gonzo_Matt View Post
I'll second this. I've ridden on both tires and prefer the 244.

I've owned my WRR for about a month now, and between working non stop, building a house, and our 6 month old son, I haven't had too many opportunities to ride it. It managed to put in 200+ miles under me on Sunday exploring around the great state of Ohio with Alansz400.....a few highlights:


I don't know why i didn't buy one of these things a long time ago...
Good deal..as soon as the tax return comes in...these tires on are my shopping list.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd View Post
I've recieved a PM about this, and its gotten me wondering...

How long do you think the WR250R/X motor should last before needing an overhaul? Mine's sitting at just under 43,000 miles, and looks like it needs a top end (might just be a piston, rings, and valve adjustment, might require head work) and frankly I always figured I'd have about 40-50k miles before it needed work so its in the correct range. If yours makes it to 45,000, would you be disappointed? Ok with it? Happy it made it that long (crawdaddy )?
I had read your other posts. So long as the piston is in good shape..there is nothing that says it needs to be replaced. The rings can and should be replaced...they are weaker than the Nikasil coating( by design) on cylinder wall. So, in theory, if the cylinder wall is good and the piston has not shrank and there is no hole or guage in it......new rings should get your compression back. Just an idea.

As far as mileage..I have nothing. I am going to make mine part time commuter, so the miles will start building up. After two years of weekend single track, I only have about 3000 miles on my 2010.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:04 AM   #33120
30Bones
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Originally Posted by leftystrat62 View Post
you can see this over in the Flea Mkt. for sale[IMG][/IMG]
Didn't see it out there, PM me more details, location, price. Thanks
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