Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[DougZ73]

I may be getting these tires soon and making the WRR into a part time commuter bike. The front listing for these tires on RMATV are 2.75, 3.00, & 3.25 X 21". Stock tire size is 80/100-21. Rim is a 1.6 X 21".

Which front tire size to get??

[UtahFox]

Originally Posted by AZ TOM

Utah Fox good luck on your trip. If you can set the shock sag to 4+ inches, should help with the height. Seat Concepts will be a big plus. I am here in Prescott AZ, if you have any issues along the way on your trip just give a shout & I will give any help I can. Good luck & ride safe.

Thanks Tom. I did bring my toolkit, so hope to set that sag before I take off. I weigh about 150 and my bag will be kind of heavy; I'm going to have a 1 & 1/2 gallon Rotopax in there + about 10 pounds. Would that change the amount of sag I should set? I'm not going to do any dirt on the way home as I'm really not set for emergencies (flats) yet, just a tiny amount of touring since I'll be in the area.

Dave

P. S. Oh, and the gear I wear is pretty heavy too, maybe 10-15 pounds (Rukka jacket, BMW city pants, Gaerne boots, and my Shoei).

P.p.s. what about break in? The bike now has 500 miles exactly, and the owner gave it to me with a fresh oil change. I have around 700 miles to get home. Should I ride the piss out of it or baby it? Should I get the oil changed again on the way home?

[swimmer]

Originally Posted by UtahFox

P.p.s. what about break in? The bike now has 500 miles exactly, and the owner gave it to me with a fresh oil change. I have around 700 miles to get home. Should I ride the piss out of it or baby it? Should I get the oil changed again on the way home?

I'd just ride it normally and not worry about changing the oil on the way home.

[burtonrider3889]

Originally Posted by UtahFox

Here it is, my new WRR. Picked it up 120 miles from here, where I'm staying with my parents in Palm Springs. Heading back up to SLC in a week or so, via Death Valley and central Nevada and Utah. More pics later. Fun ride!

Congrats! Sounds like a great break in ride.

[BlueLghtning]

Originally Posted by DougZ73

I may be getting these tires soon and making the WRR into a part time commuter bike. The front listing for these tires on RMATV are 2.75, 3.00, & 3.25 X 21". Stock tire size is 80/100-21. Rim is a 1.6 X 21".

Which front tire size to get??

Did you see my post above? I would strongly urge you to look at the Shinko 244's instead of the Kenda 270's. You'll have better pavement cornering characteristics on the 244's and they are cheaper than the 270's.

As for the front tire size, I think the 3.00 should be fine. I believe that is the direct cross over from the 80/100-21.

[TwilightZone]

>"Is there any way to display a tach, or do I need to install an add on computer for that?"

Not sure what you'd need a tach for on a thumper... heck, just ride it.
If you hit the red line the engine will cut out, pretty soon you will find out where the power is in the rpm range.

That said, if you go into the diag mode to set the CO level, it will display a tach... but only until you turn the key off, then the tach goes away. I rode with mine on for a bit though and found out heck, the engine is making a lot of rpm!

>"Thanks! The spoke wrench gauge is a good idea."

I think the spoke wrench is likely wrong if your sprockets are not the stock size. I have my son sit on the bike and check the chain for clearance in the mid range (swing arm compressed to level - max distance). I use that to determine the settings, just tight in the mid range.

I am running 14x50 sprockets and the guide is lasting, probably need to replace it in 8 to 10 thou miles.

[DougZ73]

Originally Posted by BlueLghtning

Did you see my post above? I would strongly urge you to look at the Shinko 244's instead of the Kenda 270's. You'll have better pavement cornering characteristics on the 244's and they are cheaper than the 270's.

As for the front tire size, I think the 3.00 should be fine. I believe that is the direct cross over from the 80/100-21.

Nope..I must have missed it. I am on here less now, and have much shorter windows of surfing time.

I'll look into the Shinko's. How are they in the sand, if you know??

[AZ TOM]

Dave, would not worry on oil change on way home. The rear spring is pretty stiff, stock & I would set at 4 inches for the weight. Also make sure it has at least a 13 tooth front sprocket & for your ride a 14 might even be better. WR 250F sprockets will fit as well. Your Seat Concepts seat will be a big plus on your ride. Have a great ride.

[BlueLghtning]

Originally Posted by DougZ73

Nope..I must have missed it. I am on here less now, and have much shorter windows of surfing time.

I'll look into the Shinko's. How are they in the sand, if you know??

They are okay. Sand comes in so many different flavors its hard to generalize. Soft Sugary sand is more about technique than tires. Really paddle tires would do best there, but that's not feasible on the trail. More aggressive tires do dig in better, but means you need to keep your momentum higher so that you don't sink in as far. In wet stand, more aggressive tires to better, but 50/50 tires don't do bad. About the only place these tires really lack is mud and that's a given for most 50/50 tires. They sure do beat out street tires though in the mud.

Offroad, the Kenda 270's & Shinko 244's pretty much handle all off road terrain the same if not a slight edge to the Shinko's since their lugs are larger and more substantial.

[DougZ73]

Originally Posted by BlueLghtning

They are okay. Sand comes in so many different flavors its hard to generalize. Soft Sugary sand is more about technique than tires. Really paddle tires would do best there, but that's not feasible on the trail. More aggressive tires do dig in better, but means you need to keep your momentum higher so that you don't sink in as far. In wet stand, more aggressive tires to better, but 50/50 tires don't do bad. About the only place these tires really lack is mud and that's a given for most 50/50 tires. They sure do beat out street tires though in the mud.

Offroad, the Kenda 270's & Shinko 244's pretty much handle all off road terrain the same if not a slight edge to the Shinko's since their lugs are larger and more substantial.

OK, thanks for the info. As cheap as they are, no reason not to try them over the Kenda's.

[leftystrat62]

you can see this over in the Flea Mkt. for sale[IMG][/IMG]

[Llamaha]

The rear shock on this bike is such a 'shocker' I don't know what to do about it.... I live in Australia and can't easily send it off to the guy in the USA for repairs. Does anyone know what the problem with it is that needs fixing? When I come off speed bumps or whatnot the bike bounces at the rear and feels really unsafe. It's even worse when I'm 2-up.

If I know what the problem is perhaps I could order the parts online then save a bit of money at the suspension shop. Alternatively is there an Ohlins option that anyone knows about?

[Gonzo_Matt]

Originally Posted by BlueLghtning

Did you see my post above? I would strongly urge you to look at the Shinko 244's instead of the Kenda 270's. You'll have better pavement cornering characteristics on the 244's and they are cheaper than the 270's.

As for the front tire size, I think the 3.00 should be fine. I believe that is the direct cross over from the 80/100-21.

I'll second this. I've ridden on both tires and prefer the 244.

I've owned my WRR for about a month now, and between working non stop, building a house, and our 6 month old son, I haven't had too many opportunities to ride it. It managed to put in 200+ miles under me on Sunday exploring around the great state of Ohio with Alansz400.....a few highlights:





I don't know why i didn't buy one of these things a long time ago...

[skierd]

Originally Posted by Llamaha

The rear shock on this bike is such a 'shocker' I don't know what to do about it.... I live in Australia and can't easily send it off to the guy in the USA for repairs. Does anyone know what the problem with it is that needs fixing? When I come off speed bumps or whatnot the bike bounces at the rear and feels really unsafe. It's even worse when I'm 2-up.

If I know what the problem is perhaps I could order the parts online then save a bit of money at the suspension shop. Alternatively is there an Ohlins option that anyone knows about?

The main problem is a severe lack of rebound damping. Racetech has a shock option, not sure if they have dealers in Australia or not. Any good local dirt shop should be able to rebuild and attempt revalving it, or install racetech's kit. Travis at Go-Race is very good about email too, maybe you can buy the shim kit itself? Worst case, international shipping isn't any worse than shipping from Alaska to the lower 48 with UPS and its going to be about $50-60 for me to send my shock via air.

[skierd]

I've recieved a PM about this, and its gotten me wondering...

How long do you think the WR250R/X motor should last before needing an overhaul? Mine's sitting at just under 43,000 miles, and looks like it needs a top end (might just be a piston, rings, and valve adjustment, might require head work) and frankly I always figured I'd have about 40-50k miles before it needed work so its in the correct range. If yours makes it to 45,000, would you be disappointed? Ok with it? Happy it made it that long (crawdaddy )?