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Old 02-13-2013, 03:58 AM   #33121
simmons1
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Originally Posted by skierd View Post
I've recieved a PM about this, and its gotten me wondering...

How long do you think the WR250R/X motor should last before needing an overhaul? Mine's sitting at just under 43,000 miles, and looks like it needs a top end (might just be a piston, rings, and valve adjustment, might require head work) and frankly I always figured I'd have about 40-50k miles before it needed work so its in the correct range. If yours makes it to 45,000, would you be disappointed? Ok with it? Happy it made it that long (crawdaddy )?
I was thinking if mine made 35 or 40k on the top end I would be real happy considering its use. Compared to my KLR 40k would be great. I am at 39k on my KLR and it is on its second top end already. It runs great but 2nd top end is starting starting to burn a lot of oil again.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:47 AM   #33122
ADWrider
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Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
They are okay. Sand comes in so many different flavors its hard to generalize. Soft Sugary sand is more about technique than tires. Really paddle tires would do best there, but that's not feasible on the trail. More aggressive tires do dig in better, but means you need to keep your momentum higher so that you don't sink in as far. In wet stand, more aggressive tires to better, but 50/50 tires don't do bad. About the only place these tires really lack is mud and that's a given for most 50/50 tires. They sure do beat out street tires though in the mud.

Offroad, the Kenda 270's & Shinko 244's pretty much handle all off road terrain the same if not a slight edge to the Shinko's since their lugs are larger and more substantial.
Great to hear so many reassuring things about the 244's. I picked up a WRx last fall that came with a set of these tires in addition to the stock street Bridgestones. My brother picked up a set of Warp9 18/21 with off-road tires for his WRx, I was hoping I wouldn't suffer too much with the 244's on 17" wheels. From what I've read so far it's a pretty decent setup. As an added bonus it sounds like the 244's are also fairly flat-resistant since they have a bit stiffer sidewall and taller profile.

Can't wait for the snow to melt a bit so I can ride the thing!
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:57 AM   #33123
DougZ73
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Originally Posted by Llamaha View Post
The rear shock on this bike is such a 'shocker' I don't know what to do about it.... I live in Australia and can't easily send it off to the guy in the USA for repairs. Does anyone know what the problem with it is that needs fixing? When I come off speed bumps or whatnot the bike bounces at the rear and feels really unsafe. It's even worse when I'm 2-up.

If I know what the problem is perhaps I could order the parts online then save a bit of money at the suspension shop. Alternatively is there an Ohlins option that anyone knows about?
Silly question, but have you adjusted the stock rebound damper setting to max yet? ( 3 clicks from bottom). Doing that initially made my bike feel totally differently. I still needed more, so I ended up sending my shock to a well know suspension guys here in NJ....who has also done a bunch of these shocks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gonzo_Matt View Post
I'll second this. I've ridden on both tires and prefer the 244.

I've owned my WRR for about a month now, and between working non stop, building a house, and our 6 month old son, I haven't had too many opportunities to ride it. It managed to put in 200+ miles under me on Sunday exploring around the great state of Ohio with Alansz400.....a few highlights:


I don't know why i didn't buy one of these things a long time ago...
Good deal..as soon as the tax return comes in...these tires on are my shopping list.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd View Post
I've recieved a PM about this, and its gotten me wondering...

How long do you think the WR250R/X motor should last before needing an overhaul? Mine's sitting at just under 43,000 miles, and looks like it needs a top end (might just be a piston, rings, and valve adjustment, might require head work) and frankly I always figured I'd have about 40-50k miles before it needed work so its in the correct range. If yours makes it to 45,000, would you be disappointed? Ok with it? Happy it made it that long (crawdaddy )?
I had read your other posts. So long as the piston is in good shape..there is nothing that says it needs to be replaced. The rings can and should be replaced...they are weaker than the Nikasil coating( by design) on cylinder wall. So, in theory, if the cylinder wall is good and the piston has not shrank and there is no hole or guage in it......new rings should get your compression back. Just an idea.

As far as mileage..I have nothing. I am going to make mine part time commuter, so the miles will start building up. After two years of weekend single track, I only have about 3000 miles on my 2010.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:04 AM   #33124
30Bones
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Originally Posted by leftystrat62 View Post
you can see this over in the Flea Mkt. for sale[IMG][/IMG]
Didn't see it out there, PM me more details, location, price. Thanks
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:30 AM   #33125
rdouthit
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Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
Instead of the Kenda 270's look at the Shinko 244's. Almost exact copies in the middle tread, but much more substantial side lugs which makes them much more sure footed on the pavement. The middle lugs on the 244's are actually "bigger" too which again helps with stability on the road. They are also cheaper than the 270's usually. Sometimes the Shinko 244's are labeled as "Golden Boy" tires too.

I've ran the Kenda 270's before and I used to like them, but they are either a love or hate relationship. The biggest problem with them is that their side knobs are soft and flex when you get over on them on pavement, so this can make the tires seem squimry. It's definitely worse on larger bikes.

Since I have found the 244', I won't run the Kenda's again. They are almost direct copies of the Kenda 270's and are cheaper to buy, but they redesigned the side knobs to be more substantial and they don't flex like the 270's do. A win/win!! Their beefier knobs gives them a more sure footed feel when you get over on the side knobs in the twisties.

Here's a direct comparison of both tires. That is a Shinko 244 on the left and Kenda 270 on the right. You can see the larger side knobs which I cannot bend with my finger where I can on the Kenda's. You can also see the knobs just in a bit from the sides are also a bit larger on the Shinko's and go all the way to the edge every 2 knobs which gives you more stability there too.




A well worn Kenda 270 on the right and a new Shinko 244 replacement on the left


A close up of the side knobs. See those little bitty side knobs. That is what makes the kenda 270's so squirmy. They give & flex so easily.


What size 244 are you running on the rear? 4.60 or 5.10?

rdouthit screwed with this post 02-13-2013 at 03:34 PM Reason: Brain Fart
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:53 AM   #33126
UtahFox
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Sag

Since I'm out of town, I don't have the ability to get both wheels off the ground. Should I find a Yamaha dealer around here and get their help before I head off home?
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:56 AM   #33127
BlueLghtning
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Originally Posted by rdouthit View Post
What size 244 are you running on the rear?
In the picture, that was an older XT600, but I have a set of 244's waiting to go on my WRR. I went with the 4.60 x 18 rear for my WRR. I saw no reason to go with the 5.10 rear on a 250. I'm actually running the 4.10 x 18 rear on my wife's XT225. We'll see how the 4.60 does on the WRR.
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:00 AM   #33128
HardWorkingDog
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Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
Since I'm out of town, I don't have the ability to get both wheels off the ground. Should I find a Yamaha dealer around here and get their help before I head off home?
I wouldn't. Just gas it up and go. Do the basic stuff first--there should be enough tools in the oem tool kit to check the air filter, check the oil level, pull the front sprocket cover and check that the chain slider is still protecting the swingarm, check the chain slack. Check the tire pressures. Make sure all the lights are working. Once you're satisfied, hit the road. Assume they're out to get you, and ride smart!
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:17 AM   #33129
AZ TOM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
Since I'm out of town, I don't have the ability to get both wheels off the ground. Should I find a Yamaha dealer around here and get their help before I head off home?
Mess with it when you get home. Doing all pavement your Seat Concepts seat should give you enough comfort for the ride
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:36 PM   #33130
rdouthit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
In the picture, that was an older XT600, but I have a set of 244's waiting to go on my WRR. I went with the 4.60 x 18 rear for my WRR. I saw no reason to go with the 5.10 rear on a 250. I'm actually running the 4.10 x 18 rear on my wife's XT225. We'll see how the 4.60 does on the WRR.
Thank you.

I am running a 4.60 on the rear, also. I was wondering if going to a 5.10 would gain me any traction with the larger footprint or if I would just gain the weight.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:26 PM   #33131
Mr. Fisherman
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Originally Posted by rdouthit View Post
Thank you.

I am running a 4.60 on the rear, also. I was wondering if going to a 5.10 would gain me any traction with the larger footprint or if I would just gain the weight.
I am digging the 5.10 on the 17 wheel rear... Will do it again.
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:12 PM   #33132
iWander
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Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post
I did some quick math.......... 40K miles at an average overall speed of 40 mph, with and average rpm of 8k........... works out to around a half a BILLION cycles of the piston. Amazing really. If you count each pass up and down the rings have followed the length of the bore a full Billion times.


Looking at it another way............. The stroke x 2 = .35170604 feet, so it only takes about 15012.5 revolutions of the crank for the piston to travel a mile in the bore......... so in 40,000 miles, on the bike, the piston travels approximately 33,300 miles down the bore.
.
Huh, I guess math really can be interesting. Makes me wish I had stayed awake more in class...
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:12 PM   #33133
BlueLghtning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdouthit View Post
Thank you.

I am running a 4.60 on the rear, also. I was wondering if going to a 5.10 would gain me any traction with the larger footprint or if I would just gain the weight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Fisherman View Post
I am digging the 5.10 on the 17 wheel rear... Will do it again.
I could see the 5.10 on the 17" wheel because I think its actually a wider rim than the 18" rim? On the 18" rim, I think it will just be pinched not sure it will really gain you anything except extra weight and a higher cost.
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:48 AM   #33134
ADWrider
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I have the 5.1 on the 17". Fits good, looks killer, just wish I could ride I now...
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:53 PM   #33135
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Didn't see it out there, PM me more details, location, price. Thanks
Just pm'd you
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