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Old 02-19-2013, 08:28 AM   #33226
pfy50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggemelos View Post
Does anyone have experience using heated grips with fat bars? I just ordered an HDB setup and was thinking it would be easy to replace the grips at the same time as I install the new bar, but I have heard that heated grips don't work well on aluminum bars as the aluminum soaks up the heat. Any first hand experience and recommendation for heated grips?
Have you tried using HVAC heat reflective Duct tape (available @ hardware store) on clutch side and use a plastic throttle tube, not metal one.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:43 AM   #33227
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Originally Posted by pfy50 View Post
Have you tried using HVAC heat reflective Duct tape (available @ hardware store) on clutch side and use a plastic throttle tube, not metal one.
I have the hot grips on my WR with the aluminum handle bars and they work perfectly. VERY warm.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:47 AM   #33228
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Originally Posted by Sewerat View Post
Sounds good, it's only ice racing season here so won't need it for at least a month. Yu think I'd lern. This is the second one ive done hi too. The first one wasn't on my bike though.
My stuff is on the way, but so is a storm and my work area is covered but outside. I'll give a shout out when I get it done. Have you thought about a tail tidy? Maybe that'd work better for you than stock.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:27 AM   #33229
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Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
My stuff is on the way, but so is a storm and my work area is covered but outside. I'll give a shout out when I get it done. Have you thought about a tail tidy? Maybe that'd work better for you than stock.
I know there's a lot of guys that use the DRC kit, but it seriously limits the intensity of your brake light and signals. The OEM Yamaha setup is a little big, but kind of balances the back of the bike in appearance; and is way safer on the street.

I've used both setups, and I went back to the stock setup after getting complaints from riding partners that they couldn't see my brake light or signals once they got the tiniest bit of dirt on them. The LEDs in the DRC also are known to go out prematurely; presumably bad soldering on the circuit board. No such issues with the OEM setup.

The OEM is fairly durable, too. The design of the signals allows them to pop out rather than break, and the taillight is pretty protected, minus looping the bike backwards.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:40 AM   #33230
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Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
...No such issues with the OEM setup.

The OEM is fairly durable, too. The design of the signals allows them to pop out rather than break, and the taillight is pretty protected, minus looping the bike backwards.
Agreed.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:49 AM   #33231
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Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
Agreed.
Sometimes the Japanese Engineers get it right
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:39 PM   #33232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
I know there's a lot of guys that use the DRC kit, but it seriously limits the intensity of your brake light and signals. The OEM Yamaha setup is a little big, but kind of balances the back of the bike in appearance; and is way safer on the street.

I've used both setups, and I went back to the stock setup after getting complaints from riding partners that they couldn't see my brake light or signals once they got the tiniest bit of dirt on them. The LEDs in the DRC also are known to go out prematurely; presumably bad soldering on the circuit board. No such issues with the OEM setup.

The OEM is fairly durable, too. The design of the signals allows them to pop out rather than break, and the taillight is pretty protected, minus looping the bike backwards.
Right on. Well for me it's mostly the look, and I can't stand the WRR tail look. If the lights don't turn out to be bright enough I'll address that. SO, you can still get mine :)

In the last 3 years I've had 3 bikes, the first of these was my first bike, a 2010 Triumph Scrambler and I didn't like its tail section either. So I changed this...



...to this...



My second bike, the 2012 Tiger actually had a look I really liked. I can't really put my finger on it, but kind of a euro industrial road tech look. These are the first reflectors I've seen that I really like. The only thing I did to it was an LED bar above the stock tail light, which would make a fantastic tail light for the WRR. It was crafted by another ADV'er - think I'm going to have to look him up :)



The current WRR one isn't long for this world
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:40 PM   #33233
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I just picked up an Eastern Beaver 3CS kit for my bike and was wondering where to tap into the bike's electrical systems for the relay trigger. The kit comes with posi-locks for tapping into the trigger wire. I have read a few posts of people tapping into the rear highlight wire, not sure which wire exactly, but I am weary of the reliability of posi-locks (they looks so flimsy). I read a post by Nice_Rumble about using a relay from the bike itself which appears to be near the battery. It seems a lot more secure to tie the trigger wire into the positive terminal of the relay. Would this work? What relay is Nice_Rumble referring to in his picture? Thanks for the help.
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:03 PM   #33234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggemelos View Post
I just picked up an Eastern Beaver 3CS kit for my bike and was wondering where to tap into the bike's electrical systems for the relay trigger.
The Rear Tail Light wire is easy access just above the battery. Pull the seat off, there are several groups of wire going to the rear of the bike that are shrouded by a piece of plastic. Slide the plastic cover back and it exposes all of the connectors. Unhook them until you find the tail light circuit. On my bike there was enough slack in that set of wires to cut and solder into.
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:08 PM   #33235
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Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
Right on. Well for me it's mostly the look, and I can't stand the WRR tail look. If the lights don't turn out to be bright enough I'll address that. SO, you can still get mine :)

In the last 3 years I've had 3 bikes, the first of these was my first bike, a 2010 Triumph Scrambler and I didn't like its tail section either. So I changed this...

[IMG]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j1wQo9ZYHlo/TiNPdWF_8gI/AAAAAAAADEQ/l_kV9UgDasM/s800/Snowbird%2520Tram.jpg[/IMG
...to this...



My second bike, the 2012 Tiger actually had a look I really liked. I can't really put my finger on it, but kind of a euro industrial road tech look. These are the first reflectors I've seen that I really like. The only thing I did to it was an LED bar above the stock tail light, which would make a fantastic tail light for the WRR. It was crafted by another ADV'er - think I'm going to have to look him up :)



The current WRR one isn't long for this world
What tail light is that on the Scrambler? I had a DRC on my KLX, and it was junk. I don't like the WR tail, but I won't buy another DRC.
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:16 PM   #33236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Cup View Post
I have the hot grips on my WR with the aluminum handle bars and they work perfectly. VERY warm.
+1

When I last did the research found lots of reports that the elements that wrap around the aluminium bars suffer from some Heat Sink effect from the Aluminium. Grips that have the elements embeded into the GRIPS seem to be a better choice for heat, but some folks hate the larger grip that they give you. I put Hot Grips on my WR and they've been great. Now the big ass ceramic resistor they give you is kinda a PITA, but it works.

I've got some of the cheaper ones on my KTM but I'm too chicken to try them (tiny battery syndrome).
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:45 PM   #33237
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Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
I'm probably the only one here with this set up, but I like it. I use aerostich's velcro wrap grip heaters. They heat up very quickly and when I don't need them (which is most of the time) I take them off and store them. That way I can use the grips I like best and since they are positioned immediately under my gloves and insulated from the bars by the grips it doesn't matter whether you've got aluminum or steel bars.

They've worked well for me:

I have these too, and I'd recommend them. Prior to this I had the thin, cheap warmers that fit underneath any grip. They didn't work well...well actually the one on the throttle side worked good, but the one on the other side didn't. Maybe the alumimum sucked the heat out of that side. I don't need heated grips too often, so these (like in pic) work good for me.
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:45 PM   #33238
UtahFox
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Originally Posted by cjbiker View Post
What tail light is that on the Scrambler? I had a DRC on my KLX, and it was junk. I don't like the WR tail, but I won't buy another DRC.
This thing, BCC?

http://www.bellacorse.com/bcc136.htm
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:47 PM   #33239
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Hot Grips do a good job of insulating against aluminum bar's heat sink effect. I had a set of my old WRR on ProTaper Evo's and they worked well. They work better on the stock steel bars, but work just fine on aluminum. No idea if the under grips work better or not as I like the fatter grip of the Hot Grips most of the time.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:10 PM   #33240
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But some odi lock on grips and peel away the grip from the body. Install the element on it and put on a new grip. This is for the non throttle side.

For the throttle side, just install as normal. You will need 2 throttle size grips. The odi lock on has a plastic core that doesn't heat sink. The best part is you can pick up a well used set of odi grips really cheap. Just check at a local bicycle shop.

There is a write up somewhere if you google for it. The bonus is also that the grips are easy to take off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ggemelos View Post
Does anyone have experience using heated grips with fat bars? I just ordered an HDB setup and was thinking it would be easy to replace the grips at the same time as I install the new bar, but I have heard that heated grips don't work well on aluminum bars as the aluminum soaks up the heat. Any first hand experience and recommendation for heated grips?
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