Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[Crawdaddy]

Originally Posted by UtahFox

As I was riding through the area, I was thinking that there looked like a lot of good riding all around Bullhead City. I'll be back.

Short snipit taken by a buddy who went riding with me 2 weeks ago: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P397V...layer_embedded

[Sewerat]

Looks a lot better then the stuff I'm riding in right now.

[True North]

Not sure how this would work on a bike but on the snowmobile if we want warmer hand warmers we put expanding foam inside the bars. This might hold the heat on the clutch side a little better.

[UtahFox]

I'm wondering, how difficult is it to replace the header? Is it simply unbolt and replace?

[BlueLghtning]

Originally Posted by UtahFox

I'm wondering, how difficult is it to replace the header? Is it simply unbolt and replace?

On the WRR, yes.

[UtahFox]

Originally Posted by BlueLghtning

On the WRR, yes.

Nice, thanks.

[1Down-5Up]

Originally Posted by viper770

just installed the full Graves Exhaust

I would love to hear that thing. It would be nice to have a quiet aftermarket exhaust though. Not exactly cheap at almost a grand!

[CNDRAT]

Originally Posted by Sewerat

Looks a lot better then the stuff I'm riding in right now.

Very cool,nice pic

[indypup]

I have a question for the brain trust...



I broke this tab off my rear caliper assembly after installing the zeta rear disk guard. (It broke after taking a hit to the guard)



I know they don't sell just that part but the whole assembly. My question is....do any of you know of another rear brake disk guard that I can use that doesn't use this tab to mount it?

TIA!

[BMW-K]

Three is better. :)

I decided I needed a bit more light on the WR and I didn't like my current fog light options. So I decided to fab up some metal brackets...



I used 16g. steel because that's what I had laying around and a couple of Sanjoh 2000lumen LED foggies...



And then I found a third lamp that I had laying about. 'Cuz, you know, if one is good, and two is better then...



THREE must freaking ROCK!



I still need to rattle can some bedliner on the brackets for looks but I'm super happy with the setup!

[what broke now]

[QUOTE=indypup;20773645]I have a question for the brain trust...


I broke this tab off my rear caliper assembly after installing the zeta rear disk guard. (It broke after taking a hit to the guard)

My question is....do any of you know of another rear brake disk guard that I can use that doesn't use this tab to mount it?

TIA![/QUOTE

Can you get somebody to tig weld it back on? Even if the piece is long gone, it might not be hard to rig something out of plate aluminum.

[8gv]

So new that I haven't bought one yet.

But I think the WR250R will be my next. I realize that I could read every page of this odyssey but at 55, I may not live long enough to do so. So is there any chance you folks could answer a few Q's?

Thanks in advance!

Buying used:
Are there any model years that are preferred or should be avoided?
What WR specific issues should be scrutinized when looking over a bike?
In general, how many "well maintained" miles can the bike be ridden before major work is needed?

Buying new or used:
Using aftermarket links, how much can the bike be lowered?
Is there a favorite larger fuel tank?
Are there options for FI mapping?

With stock gearing, what speed and rpms do you get running your top gear high cruise?

Thanks for your input. If all goes well and I get one I'll post up some epic TAT pics next year.

[BlueLghtning]

Originally Posted by 8gv

So new that I haven't bought one yet.

But I think the WR250R will be my next. I realize that I could read every page of this odyssey but at 55, I may not live long enough to do so. So is there any chance you folks could answer a few Q's?

Thanks in advance!

Buying used:
Are there any model years that are preferred or should be avoided?
What WR specific issues should be scrutinized when looking over a bike?
In general, how many "well maintained" miles can the bike be ridden before major work is needed?

Buying new or used:
Using aftermarket links, how much can the bike be lowered?
Is there a favorite larger fuel tank?
Are there options for FI mapping?

With stock gearing, what speed and rpms do you get running your top gear high cruise?

Thanks for your input. If all goes well and I get one I'll post up some epic TAT pics next year.

Hey man, good to see you over here in the WRR thread after your DR vs WRR TAT thread.

The WR250R came out in 2008 and hasn't changed. All models are blue with a silver frame although graphics may have changed slightly over the years. The WR250X also came out in 2008 but got a black frame and different years were different colors. Of course it has 17 wheels, but also a larger front brake rotor. Suspension between the 2 is the same. Some people prefer the WRX and then get the Warp 9 wheels you can buy in 18/21 that are a direct bolt on and accommodate the larger front brake rotor. I think the WRX was dropped for 2013.

The weak point of these bikes is the fuel pump, but I don't really think there is a rhyme or reason. Some people have no issues, and others have been through 2 pumps already. It seems heat is a big killer, but again its all over the map on whose had issues and who hasn't.

Looking used, you are most likely to find the 2008 models. I guess they made a ton of them that year and many people bought left over 2008 models into 09, 10, etc. The WRR motors seem pretty robust, so like any bike, a good maintenance schedule and how the owner took care of it is probably the key points to look at.

I don't need the bike lowered myself, but I believe I've read built into the stock shock is a bit of height adjustment. There is also a lowering link available if needed. You might look at getting one of the lower seat options though to see if that gets you where you need. Seat Concepts makes a low seat along with the Spiral Step down seat.

For fuel tanks, there are 3 options. Stock tank is 2gals and its tiny, so an aftermarket tank is a must. IMS makes a 3.1 gal and a 4.7gal. Safari makes the 3.7gal, but its the priciest of the bunch. The IMS 3.1 uses your stock shrouds while both the Safari and the IMS 4.7 don't. - http://justgastanks.com/index.php?cPath=4_42_337

There are a couple FI options. The most popular by far the FMF fuel mapper. Its very reasonably priced and is very simple to setup on the fly. No PC needed. It can only add fuel though, not take it away.

The other is a PCIII, but you either need a PC or the autotune option. The PCIII does have the advantage of being able to take fuel away, but a custom map really would be needed to take full effect. Its also more $$$.

Stock, most people agree the WRR is geared way too high and many gear it down quite a bit. The bike really comes alive with lower gearing and a few mods. Totally changes the bike. There is no Tach, so don't really know the RPM's. The motor does like to be revved and will run 65-70 pretty comfortably.

One more thing you may need depending on how bad it bothers you. In stock form, the WRR/WRX speedo's are terribly optimistic and since they read the speed of the counter shaft sprocket, it gets way worse when you lower the gearing. Thankfully, SpeedoDRD makes a pretty slick device that corrects this - http://www.wrrdualsport.com/reviews-...s/97-speedodrd. There are other options too out there.

BTW, the WRR has a 350w stator and the first valve check is at 26k. No other DS even comes close to that!

[viper770]

if you really want to hear it here is the link i posted a day ago hope it helps you http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2WaQI4IaXo

[8gv]

Great info. Thanks.

If I'm in the desert and the fuel pump croaks, can I replace it there? Do I need to drain the tank to do so? Are they big bucks? I doubt the issue is widespread enough to warrant carrying a spare but it never rains if I bring the rain gear so maybe it's good insurance to carry one out west.