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Old 03-25-2013, 08:04 AM   #34126
oldtrucks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aj_day View Post
I would appreciate any recommendations on replacement springs and oil weights, etc...
Contact Travis at Go Race. He's go an excellent reputation and knows the WR suspension, he'll know exactly what can be done

http://go-race.com/wordpress/?page_id=291
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:11 AM   #34127
indypup
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Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
On mine I have to wait until the pump finishes running to start it or it has a hard time and might not start. The pump has never failed to run after a stall though.
I'm saying when I kill it while riding. Not with the kill switch. I hardly ever use that anyway. ;) I have to cycle the startup process and let it finish like you mentioned and it starts right up. If I just try to start it without doing that I have to crank on it for a long time and crack the throttle to get it started. :( Oh and I never hear the fuel pump kick in like at startup...
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2014 KTM 350 XCF-W ISDE
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:18 AM   #34128
mpatch
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Originally Posted by indypup View Post
I'm saying when I kill it while riding. Not with the kill switch. I hardly ever use that anyway. ;) I have to cycle the startup process and let it finish like you mentioned and it starts right up. If I just try to start it without doing that I have to crank on it for a long time and crack the throttle to get it started. :( Oh and I never hear the fuel pump kick in like at startup...
I have noticed the same thing.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:23 AM   #34129
GSBS
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Originally Posted by mpatch View Post
I have noticed the same thing.
I've always assumed the reason you only hear the fuel pump on startup to be that after running awhile the system is already pressurized. Dunno for sure though. BTW, I always just wait til the dash lights go out (2-3 seconds) before restarting after a stall. No big deal for me.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:26 AM   #34130
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Originally Posted by Sewerat View Post
Well these hand guards are seeming to be a little trickier then I thought they'd be???

I think I see your problem. That red strap is mounted inside-out.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:36 AM   #34131
MeefZah
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Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
I've always assumed the reason you only hear the fuel pump on startup to be that after running awhile the system is already pressurized. Dunno for sure though. BTW, I always just wait til the dash lights go out (2-3 seconds) before restarting after a stall. No big deal for me.
That's my understanding / thoughts as well.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:01 AM   #34132
Sewerat
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Ok so under valve inspection I find the intakes to be at the minimum and the exhaust to be too tight. Under the caps the shims are 195/190 in. 185/185 exhaust. So if I'm understanding correctly if I go smaller numbers each number will give me .005 mm more slack? I found a set of shims online so I will have the entire set in stock but looks like if I just swap the exhaust ones to the intake and then put new ones on exhaust it should get me back into spec.

Now onto my next project. Retrofitting a ktm tail light onto the rear.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:10 AM   #34133
duanew1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indypup View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
On mine I have to wait until the pump finishes running to start it or it has a hard time and might not start. The pump has never failed to run after a stall though.
I'm saying when I kill it while riding. Not with the kill switch. I hardly ever use that anyway. ;) I have to cycle the startup process and let it finish like you mentioned and it starts right up. If I just try to start it without doing that I have to crank on it for a long time and crack the throttle to get it started. :( Oh and I never hear the fuel pump kick in like at startup...
I guess I was not clear. I was talking about when I stall the bike on a hard uphill off road. I always hear the pump running after I stall it and I have to wait until it finishes to restart the bike or it is difficult to start. I have been thinking lately that my pump is not as strong sounding as it should be, but it has never let me down.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:14 AM   #34134
cjbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sewerat View Post
Ok so under valve inspection I find the intakes to be at the minimum and the exhaust to be too tight. Under the caps the shims are 195/190 in. 185/185 exhaust. So if I'm understanding correctly if I go smaller numbers each number will give me .005 mm more slack? I found a set of shims online so I will have the entire set in stock but looks like if I just swap the exhaust ones to the intake and then put new ones on exhaust it should get me back into spec.

Now onto my next project. Retrofitting a ktm tail light onto the rear.
I believe the valve shims come in 0.05mm increments, or 0.002" for us Americans .

You can swap around your existing shims to get as many valves in spec as possible. I've had good success taking my unwanted shims to my local Hondawazukiha dealer and swapping them for the sizes I need.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:15 AM   #34135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
I guess I was not clear. I was talking about when I stall the bike on a hard uphill off road. I always hear the pump running after I stall it and I have to wait until it finishes to restart the bike or it is difficult to start. I have been thinking lately that my pump is not as strong sounding as it should be, but it has never let me down.
Hmm, I have had the problem where the fuel pump overheats a couple of times. I just let if cool down and it starts right up.
I'm going to tweak the fuel programmer and see if that makes any difference too. My tailpipe is kind of black sooty looking and it might be running too rich. The spark plug was black too.
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2014 KTM 350 XCF-W ISDE
2007 ST1300, 2008 KLR650, 2008 WR290R Supermoto, 1995 Ninja 250R
My goal in life is to be as good as a person as my dog already thinks I am.
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:17 PM   #34136
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>"I found a set of shims online so I will have the entire set in stock but looks like if I just swap the exhaust ones to the intake and then put new ones on exhaust it should get me back into spec. "

Get a metric micrometer and measure the shims exactly. Harbor Freight has a vernier mike (6" for $9.99), works fine.

The Yamaha shims that came out were pretty close to the marked sizes.
The replacement Hotcams shims I got varied a whole lot. You need to measure so you can get the closest size for the valve.
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:33 PM   #34137
AZ TOM
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Just a reflection on my 2008 WRR. I traded for this bike & have had it about 4 years. It came with FMF full exhaust, programmer & motor mods already done. I added Safari tank & a few sets of tires. Now approaching 14,000 miles, original fuel pump. 1 set of sprockets, 14/47 & a chain. Oil changes & filter & ride it. I also have an old 1995 Honda XRL 650 I ride often. Have been thinking of trading it away for a Husky as I have owned two TE's & they were great bikes, BUT. I keep coming back to the fact the Yamaha with very little attention just keeps on keepin on. Runs as well as the day I bought it & if I go out & do a 200 or 300 mile day & get tired & need to get home this bike jumps on the pavement & smoothly gets me home. In my opinion no one so far not even Honda has produced a bike to match it. No valve adjustments as yet, original spark plug & I am heading to the DV for Noobs Ride next weekend for a three day ride with no bike concerns. I have played with the stock suspension & have it about as good as it's going to be in stock form. Just my 2 cents on a bike I feel has set the standard on small bore dual sports.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:50 PM   #34138
Sewerat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwilightZone View Post
>"I found a set of shims online so I will have the entire set in stock but looks like if I just swap the exhaust ones to the intake and then put new ones on exhaust it should get me back into spec. "

Get a metric micrometer and measure the shims exactly. Harbor Freight has a vernier mike (6" for $9.99), works fine.

The Yamaha shims that came out were pretty close to the marked sizes.
The replacement Hotcams shims I got varied a whole lot. You need to measure so you can get the closest size for the valve.
Ya one of my shims had no numbers on it. Like they had worn off or something? But I did measure them all to figure out the thickness was the numbers on them. So my guess is to make them set at the closest to max slack and button it back up again for another year.
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Old 03-25-2013, 03:10 PM   #34139
Reeksy
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Originally Posted by AdvRich View Post
Mt Mellum! That rattled my memory... I used to live in Maleny some years back for a few years... loved riding all the dirt and paved twisties on both sides of the range. Sunday brekkie at Maple 3 then for the day. Great riding area you have there to explore and enjoy on the WR.

Awe, man now I'm thinking fish and chips watching the surf for lunch or ...

Not the original poster, but Target in Maroochydore should have something equivalent to the fit the dimensions of your bag.
Small world the internet eh?

Working out near the coast today - so obligatory 10km section of forestry ride into work complete with suspension tuning whoops on the way. Guess i'll take the same route back
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Old 03-25-2013, 03:19 PM   #34140
EvilClown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aj_day View Post
Everybody gets to do their research and make a choice. We already made ours - it's a WR250R. I know that starting with an XT225 or CRF230 is solid for smaller riders. She believes that she would outgrow those bikes too quickly. She has been through several street bikes, and is a very aggressive street bike rider with track experience. She read Lois on the Loose, and said she would kill me if I bought her an XT225. That's why we are still in love after 17 years... You may criticize my foolhardiness now, I am ready.

I know that there are other women riding these with similar stature. We are going to spend some money on springs and suspension tuning, and she is going to get a pair of Frey Daytona boots, that will give her a little extra height. She will also have a little learning to do, but I am sure it will not take long for her to get used to it. The Ducati she rides on the street has a 29.5in seat height, and she has become spoiled.

I think my next task will be sorting out the suspension for her weight. I am not aware of any suspension gurus in the Minneapolis area, so I may be taking it on myself. A good friend is a mountain bike suspension guru with some national chops, and I may enlist his help.

I would appreciate any recommendations on replacement springs and oil weights, etc... Racetech recommends .42 springs in the front and an 8.62 spring in the back. This sounds like a softer spring in the front (stock is .47) and a heavier spring in the back (stock is 7.7)? The rear feels very plush right now, and she is getting a little over 3 inches of sag (with yamalink installed). A heavier spring on the rear shock does not seem warranted, but she is getting very little sag at all in the front (@ 1in). Any one with experience have an opinion on Racetech's reccomendations?
You're absolutely right.
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