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Old 03-25-2013, 07:19 AM   #34126
BlueLghtning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aj_day View Post
I purchased a used 2012 WR250R last weekend, mostly for my wife to ride. She is 5'3" with 30" inseam. The previous owner was a large man, and said that he had "raised" the bike using the ride height adjustment built into the rear shock. It was my understanding that they come from the factory adjusted up to the max?

Anyway, I pulled the lower shock linkage and lowered the ride height to the max (http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/536972-lowered-wr250r/). I also purchased a yamalink and installed it, which should lower the bike another inch. I lowered the front end (raised the forks 5/8in) to compensate. It is my understanding that the stock seat height is 36.6, with the factory ride height adjustment I should be able to get 35.7, and the yamalink should get me down to 34.7. My seat height measures 36in now, with these adjustments made. Is it possible that the previous owner made some other adjustment to raise the rear of the bike? With my untrained eye I do not see anything aftermarket in that area?

Can someone else with the factory ride height lowered and a yamalink installed measure their seat height for me so I can compare?

My wife has lots of street bike experience, but is new to DS and dirt bikes. At this point, she can not even touch the ground on both sides with her tiptoes, and she has to lean so far to one side that she can not get the bike off the kickstand without tipping over. The theoretical 1.2" that I should be getting with these adjustments would make a big difference. Is there anything that I could have done wrong in the install?

I know I can get 1 more inch with a lower seat, but I mocked it up with scraps of wood and foam, and this is still not enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aj_day View Post
Everybody gets to do their research and make a choice. We already made ours - it's a WR250R. I know that starting with an XT225 or CRF230 is solid for smaller riders. She believes that she would outgrow those bikes too quickly. She has been through several street bikes, and is a very aggressive street bike rider with track experience. She read Lois on the Loose, and said she would kill me if I bought her an XT225. That's why we are still in love after 17 years... Go ahead, call me names and criticize my foolhardiness, but once you get it out of your system please throw in a few tips that I can use too.

I know that there are other women riding these with similar stature. We are going to spend some money on springs and suspension tuning, and she is going to get a pair of Frey Daytona boots, that will give her a little extra height. She will also have a little learning to do, but I am sure it will not take long for her to get used to it. The Ducati she rides on the street has a 29.5in seat height, and she has become spoiled.

I think my next task will be sorting out the suspension for her weight. I am not aware of any suspension gurus in the Minneapolis area, so I may be taking it on myself. A good friend is a mountain bike suspension guru with some national chops, and I may enlist his help.

Would appreciate any recommendations on replacement springs and oil weights, etc... Racetech recommends .42 springs in the front and an 8.62 spring in the back. This sounds like a softer spring in the front (stock is .47) and a heavier spring in the back (stock is 7.7)? The rear feels very plush right now, and she is getting a little over 3 inches of sag (with yamalink installed). A heavier spring on the rear shock does not seem warranted. Any one with experience have an opinion on Racetech's reccomendations?
You already have the WRR and I know where you are coming from. My wife is 5'4" with about a 29.5" inseam. She has been riding an XT225 and overall is pretty happy with it, but the suspension is the weak point on that bike and its air cooled, so I don't blame you not wanting the XT or CRF230L for your wife as an experienced rider. Since she is new to dual sports though, there still is a learning curve. However, did you ever look at the CRF250L instead? This bike is pretty impressive too and really not far behind the WRR.

We had thought about a WRR for my wife and she can actually ride mine getting just a toe down on one side, but in the end we decided the new CRF250L were the way to go with way less modifications. These start at about a 34" seat height and seat concepts already makes a lower seat. The Honda CRF250L engine is amazingly smooth, even more than the WRR and has better low end torque than the WRR. BTW, my wife is both an experienced street rider (Duc 696 is her pride and joy right now) and dirt rider and has been on dual sports for a couple years now. We probably could have made a WRR work for her, but in the end, I think the Honda was a fine choice and she's enjoying it so far.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:34 AM   #34127
duanew1
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Originally Posted by indypup View Post
When you kill the bike is it hard to restart? I have to turn the key off/on in order for it to restart. It seems like the fuel pump doesn't kick in unless I do that...
On mine I have to wait until the pump finishes running to start it or it has a hard time and might not start. The pump has never failed to run after a stall though.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:54 AM   #34128
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Can I plug the AIS line going to my airbox and just leave the line there? I got a broken wrist and don't feel like taking off my tank.
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:04 AM   #34129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aj_day View Post
I would appreciate any recommendations on replacement springs and oil weights, etc...
Contact Travis at Go Race. He's go an excellent reputation and knows the WR suspension, he'll know exactly what can be done

http://go-race.com/wordpress/?page_id=291
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:11 AM   #34130
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Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
On mine I have to wait until the pump finishes running to start it or it has a hard time and might not start. The pump has never failed to run after a stall though.
I'm saying when I kill it while riding. Not with the kill switch. I hardly ever use that anyway. ;) I have to cycle the startup process and let it finish like you mentioned and it starts right up. If I just try to start it without doing that I have to crank on it for a long time and crack the throttle to get it started. :( Oh and I never hear the fuel pump kick in like at startup...
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:18 AM   #34131
mpatch
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Originally Posted by indypup View Post
I'm saying when I kill it while riding. Not with the kill switch. I hardly ever use that anyway. ;) I have to cycle the startup process and let it finish like you mentioned and it starts right up. If I just try to start it without doing that I have to crank on it for a long time and crack the throttle to get it started. :( Oh and I never hear the fuel pump kick in like at startup...
I have noticed the same thing.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:23 AM   #34132
GSBS
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Originally Posted by mpatch View Post
I have noticed the same thing.
I've always assumed the reason you only hear the fuel pump on startup to be that after running awhile the system is already pressurized. Dunno for sure though. BTW, I always just wait til the dash lights go out (2-3 seconds) before restarting after a stall. No big deal for me.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:26 AM   #34133
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Originally Posted by Sewerat View Post
Well these hand guards are seeming to be a little trickier then I thought they'd be???

I think I see your problem. That red strap is mounted inside-out.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:36 AM   #34134
MeefZah
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Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
I've always assumed the reason you only hear the fuel pump on startup to be that after running awhile the system is already pressurized. Dunno for sure though. BTW, I always just wait til the dash lights go out (2-3 seconds) before restarting after a stall. No big deal for me.
That's my understanding / thoughts as well.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:01 AM   #34135
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Ok so under valve inspection I find the intakes to be at the minimum and the exhaust to be too tight. Under the caps the shims are 195/190 in. 185/185 exhaust. So if I'm understanding correctly if I go smaller numbers each number will give me .005 mm more slack? I found a set of shims online so I will have the entire set in stock but looks like if I just swap the exhaust ones to the intake and then put new ones on exhaust it should get me back into spec.

Now onto my next project. Retrofitting a ktm tail light onto the rear.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:10 AM   #34136
duanew1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indypup View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
On mine I have to wait until the pump finishes running to start it or it has a hard time and might not start. The pump has never failed to run after a stall though.
I'm saying when I kill it while riding. Not with the kill switch. I hardly ever use that anyway. ;) I have to cycle the startup process and let it finish like you mentioned and it starts right up. If I just try to start it without doing that I have to crank on it for a long time and crack the throttle to get it started. :( Oh and I never hear the fuel pump kick in like at startup...
I guess I was not clear. I was talking about when I stall the bike on a hard uphill off road. I always hear the pump running after I stall it and I have to wait until it finishes to restart the bike or it is difficult to start. I have been thinking lately that my pump is not as strong sounding as it should be, but it has never let me down.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:14 AM   #34137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sewerat View Post
Ok so under valve inspection I find the intakes to be at the minimum and the exhaust to be too tight. Under the caps the shims are 195/190 in. 185/185 exhaust. So if I'm understanding correctly if I go smaller numbers each number will give me .005 mm more slack? I found a set of shims online so I will have the entire set in stock but looks like if I just swap the exhaust ones to the intake and then put new ones on exhaust it should get me back into spec.

Now onto my next project. Retrofitting a ktm tail light onto the rear.
I believe the valve shims come in 0.05mm increments, or 0.002" for us Americans .

You can swap around your existing shims to get as many valves in spec as possible. I've had good success taking my unwanted shims to my local Hondawazukiha dealer and swapping them for the sizes I need.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:15 AM   #34138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
I guess I was not clear. I was talking about when I stall the bike on a hard uphill off road. I always hear the pump running after I stall it and I have to wait until it finishes to restart the bike or it is difficult to start. I have been thinking lately that my pump is not as strong sounding as it should be, but it has never let me down.
Hmm, I have had the problem where the fuel pump overheats a couple of times. I just let if cool down and it starts right up.
I'm going to tweak the fuel programmer and see if that makes any difference too. My tailpipe is kind of black sooty looking and it might be running too rich. The spark plug was black too.
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:17 PM   #34139
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>"I found a set of shims online so I will have the entire set in stock but looks like if I just swap the exhaust ones to the intake and then put new ones on exhaust it should get me back into spec. "

Get a metric micrometer and measure the shims exactly. Harbor Freight has a vernier mike (6" for $9.99), works fine.

The Yamaha shims that came out were pretty close to the marked sizes.
The replacement Hotcams shims I got varied a whole lot. You need to measure so you can get the closest size for the valve.
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:33 PM   #34140
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Just a reflection on my 2008 WRR. I traded for this bike & have had it about 4 years. It came with FMF full exhaust, programmer & motor mods already done. I added Safari tank & a few sets of tires. Now approaching 14,000 miles, original fuel pump. 1 set of sprockets, 14/47 & a chain. Oil changes & filter & ride it. I also have an old 1995 Honda XRL 650 I ride often. Have been thinking of trading it away for a Husky as I have owned two TE's & they were great bikes, BUT. I keep coming back to the fact the Yamaha with very little attention just keeps on keepin on. Runs as well as the day I bought it & if I go out & do a 200 or 300 mile day & get tired & need to get home this bike jumps on the pavement & smoothly gets me home. In my opinion no one so far not even Honda has produced a bike to match it. No valve adjustments as yet, original spark plug & I am heading to the DV for Noobs Ride next weekend for a three day ride with no bike concerns. I have played with the stock suspension & have it about as good as it's going to be in stock form. Just my 2 cents on a bike I feel has set the standard on small bore dual sports.
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