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Old 03-27-2013, 11:17 AM   #34231
UtahFox
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Salt Lake City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
Does anyone have a similar setup as me that recommend good fmf settings?

Uni air filter
AIS removed
Powercore 4 (stock header)
I have not modded the flapper or airbox.

Thanks.
I don't, but you can get some info here...

http://www.rickramsey.net/WR250Rtuning.htm
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:13 PM   #34232
satchmo3
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Thanks for the info guys, very helpful as I haven't had time to go through all the WR 250 stuff on this forum. You'll hear more from me if I pull the trigger.
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:00 PM   #34233
shep546
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Hey guys I just installed my rear wheel and don't know wtf I am doing wrong adjusting this chain.

Book says to loosen off axle nut, when you do this the nut side of the axle slides all the way back since there is no weight on it so I held it in place 1/2 past the first notch and tightened it so I put the chain side halfway past the first notch and now it seems a little too tight?
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:17 PM   #34234
AZ TOM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
Hey guys I just installed my rear wheel and don't know wtf I am doing wrong adjusting this chain.

Book says to loosen off axle nut, when you do this the nut side of the axle slides all the way back since there is no weight on it so I held it in place 1/2 past the first notch and tightened it so I put the chain side halfway past the first notch and now it seems a little too tight?
You must have got a lemon
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:26 PM   #34235
shep546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ TOM View Post
You must have got a lemon
Helpful...

Anyways I figured it out... you have to keep tension on the chain when you make your measurements on the axle slider.
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:33 PM   #34236
Red Sand
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So, I corresponded with my dealer last night and yes, I will pick up my 2013 WR250R on Friday! I'm off Friday so I might have to take the long way home!

Woo hoo!

Has anyone else had to wait this long?

I'll post photos Friday

I still have to get most of my stuff - I only have the upper body protection on order so I'll be riding it wearing all my road gear - and I have a lot of road gear - ATGATT 100% but that's better than not riding at all, eh?
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:40 PM   #34237
Red Sand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
Helpful...

Anyways I figured it out... you have to keep tension on the chain when you make your measurements on the axle slider.
It's easy to get the tension "just right" before you tighten the axle then find out the chain is too tight after tightening the nut on the axle because the axle can shift when tightening the axle nut if you're not careful.

You wanna pull the wheel toward the front of the motorcycle when tightening the axle nut - a little tricky but you can do it. Adjusting the chain is fairly easy but really important as we all know.

It helps to have the machine with the rear wheel in the air - toss the WR onto a crate or something stable (if you don't have a center stand of some sort).
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:55 PM   #34238
aj_day
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YZEtc View Post
That's true.

If you see the need to soften the front fork for low bucks, you can:

1) Go to a fork fluid of less than 5 wt., like a 3 or 2.5 (they are out there).

2) Simply lower the oil level, as this increases the amount of air trapped up above the oil inside the fork.
This is known as the "air gap" or "air spring" or "air spring effect".

Air spring?

When the fork compresses, the air also is compressed, and if there is less oil and more air in there, the larger volume of air will compress more easily.
This is quite noticable, and is why it is a BIG factor when a suspension guy dials-in your suspension.
The Yamaha Service Manual will give specs for what the minimum allowable amount of fork fluid is.

3) A combination of the above.

Important:

If you do anything to the fork involving the fork fluid (I even do it if simply pulling the spring out), be sure to bleed the air out of it and measure the fluid level as shown in the Service Manual.
Really appreciated this tip. I changed the fork oil to BelRay 5wt this afternoon, and reduced the oil level to 120mm (stock is 105mm). The service tech at my neighborhood motorcycle shop recommended against going with 2.5wt. I read many rave reviews of BelRay 5wt, so that is what I went with.

Sag before oil change and level reduction = 1-7/8in
Sag after oil change and level reduction = 1-7/8in

It does feel like the action is smoother after the change, though. Going to have a few test rides, but I suspect I will end up changing out the springs in the end.
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:58 PM   #34239
shep546
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The bike is on a center stand rear wheel is off the ground.

Can I adjust the tension with the wheel nut tight? Because when its backed off the wheel just slides to the rear and I can't get an accurate adjustment in.
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:21 PM   #34240
Shawnee Bill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
The bike is on a center stand rear wheel is off the ground.

Can I adjust the tension with the wheel nut tight? Because when its backed off the wheel just slides to the rear and I can't get an accurate adjustment in.
Keep the axle nut pretty snug, then push it back with the adjusters, it will stay then when the tension is right carefully tighten the axle, it won't move.


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Old 03-27-2013, 05:22 PM   #34241
Red Sand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
The bike is on a center stand rear wheel is off the ground.

Can I adjust the tension with the wheel nut tight? Because when its backed off the wheel just slides to the rear and I can't get an accurate adjustment in.
Pull the wheel towards the FRONT of the motorcycle - this will seat the axle onto the axle position posts/bolts.

1 - lift the motorcycle
2 - put a pencil mark where the axle is adjusted on each side
3 - loosen the axle - just enough to move the axle along the lugs
4 - adjust the axle position posts (loosen the fixing nuts, then turn in/out making sure the marks on each side are the same - compare to the pencil marks)
5 - pull the wheel towards the front of the motorcycle and make sure it's fully seated against both of the axle position bolts - might help to tighten the nut so you can slide the axle towards the front with difficulty
6 - check the chain tension

Repeat steps 4, 5 & 6 until chain tension is right

7 - carefully tighten the locking nuts for the axle position bolts so they won't move out of position
8 - while pushing the tire from behind, pushing the wheel/tire towards the front of the machine, insuring the axle is pressed firmly against the axle position bolts while tightening the axle nut slowly
9 - when axle nut is finally tightened, check everything - chain tension, marks aligned, look at it from behind and spin the tire and watch for wobble or look to see if the wheel looks properly aligned (vertical)

NO you're not done yet:
  • A clean chain is important
  • A properly lubed chain is equally important
Now you can go play in the dirt . . . enjoy!
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:57 PM   #34242
manfromthestix
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Location: Lexington, Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post
Amen, Doug! Much luck on the job search.

Kbob
I meant I have a good job that keeps me too busy to ride, not that I'm looking for one! But thanks anyway! I feel for people who are out of work these days, it's a tough market. We just hired a young MS-degreed engineer who beat out almost 100 other applicants for the job - some applicants were not qualified, but when it was narrowed down to the really well qualified it was still a field of almost 30 people - tough competition.

Hey, I really enjoyed the pictorial from New Mexico! I grew up in NM and learned to ride there, doing motocross, trials, enduros, and even some flat tracking! That brought back some memories!

+1 on the used WR250R market being pretty tight - I looked for over a year without finding much locally, wasn't interested in travelling to Texas or Florida to get one, so finally resorted to looking at new bikes. Two weeks ago I was in the showroom of my local dealer and they didn't have a single one, and weren't sure if or when they'd be getting any. The parts guy rides a WR250X and loves it, but no WR-R's. They had a bunch of KTMs on the floor, very nice bikes, but more than I need, every last one of them WAY too frigging tall for me, and more $$$ than I wanted to spend.

I lucked into a local 2010 WR250R and got a great deal on it, just got all the paperwork finalized today . It has two years of warranty left on the Y.E.S. and got it swapped over for the cost of a 30 minute inspection. After a thorough look all the mechanic could come up with is that it needs a new rear tire soon and the battery is on the decline - this with 7700 miles on it, most put on in a 13 month period by the previous owner. Can't complain about that! It was blizzarding (Spring squalls, 35 degrees) as I had this work done so I haven't had a chance to ride much yet, but it's supposed to be mid-50's this weekend!

I've noticed the dreaded fuel-injected low RPM lag (is there a proper term for this?) on the bike a couple times as I putzed around on it, gonna have to investigate that. It does the same kind of hiccup that my 1150GS does if you roll all the way off the throttle then back on at low engine speeds, like when you roll up real low RPM at an intersection then roll it back on; if you aren't feathering the clutch it will hiccup and die. I actually dropped it riding up a steep little embankment out of my field onto a dirt road, hiccupped and DOWN. Didn't hurt the bike but caught me by surprise. It's a bit easier to pick the WR up than the GS, I tell you .

Doug
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:05 PM   #34243
KansasBob
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Location: Topeka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manfromthestix View Post
I meant I have a good job that keeps me too busy to ride, not that I'm looking for one! But thanks anyway!
I've noticed the dreaded fuel-injected low RPM lag (is there a proper term for this?)
Doug
LOL.......... oops! sort of fits with brain damage thing though.

The popular term is "throttle snatch"

Here is the fix....... Have fun.

http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t5...on-off-at-idle

Page 3 is the good part where I start talking!
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:14 PM   #34244
Sewerat
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Well almost all my winter farkles are here now. Just need to reassemble the bike and get ready to ride. Warp 9 wheels showed up today. Very nice looking stuff. Can't wait to get them on but still need my suspension back.
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:22 PM   #34245
Reposado1800
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Location: 5th and Main
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manfromthestix View Post
I meant I have a good job that keeps me too busy to ride, not that I'm looking for one! But thanks anyway! I feel for people who are out of work these days, it's a tough market. We just hired a young MS-degreed engineer who beat out almost 100 other applicants for the job - some applicants were not qualified, but when it was narrowed down to the really well qualified it was still a field of almost 30 people - tough competition.

Hey, I really enjoyed the pictorial from New Mexico! I grew up in NM and learned to ride there, doing motocross, trials, enduros, and even some flat tracking! That brought back some memories!

+1 on the used WR250R market being pretty tight - I looked for over a year without finding much locally, wasn't interested in travelling to Texas or Florida to get one, so finally resorted to looking at new bikes. Two weeks ago I was in the showroom of my local dealer and they didn't have a single one, and weren't sure if or when they'd be getting any. The parts guy rides a WR250X and loves it, but no WR-R's. They had a bunch of KTMs on the floor, very nice bikes, but more than I need, every last one of them WAY too frigging tall for me, and more $$$ than I wanted to spend.

I lucked into a local 2010 WR250R and got a great deal on it, just got all the paperwork finalized today . It has two years of warranty left on the Y.E.S. and got it swapped over for the cost of a 30 minute inspection. After a thorough look all the mechanic could come up with is that it needs a new rear tire soon and the battery is on the decline - this with 7700 miles on it, most put on in a 13 month period by the previous owner. Can't complain about that! It was blizzarding (Spring squalls, 35 degrees) as I had this work done so I haven't had a chance to ride much yet, but it's supposed to be mid-50's this weekend!

I've noticed the dreaded fuel-injected low RPM lag (is there a proper term for this?) on the bike a couple times as I putzed around on it, gonna have to investigate that. It does the same kind of hiccup that my 1150GS does if you roll all the way off the throttle then back on at low engine speeds, like when you roll up real low RPM at an intersection then roll it back on; if you aren't feathering the clutch it will hiccup and die. I actually dropped it riding up a steep little embankment out of my field onto a dirt road, hiccupped and DOWN. Didn't hurt the bike but caught me by surprise. It's a bit easier to pick the WR up than the GS, I tell you .

Doug
There is a software hack through the bike digital dash. It is somewhere in this huge thread. You can richen up the mixture. I did it with great results.
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