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Old 04-06-2013, 11:55 AM   #34516
MeefZah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ smith View Post
I should have just left the WR on its stand in the basement, but its almost riding season and I got the tinkering bug...
So I dug out the spoke tool and began playing the musical wheel harp. A few spokes were a little off(some had a high tone and some a low tone when struck) without a fancy torquing device or the necessary knowledge, theres no telling for sure. I tightened a few(or loosened?) a 1/2 to 3/4 turn, listened, tried a few more, and then I got the strange feeling that I Have No Idea What I Am Doing. What do you say fellas, did I just ruin a set of perfectly good wheels or is this "adjustment" reversible by bringing it to a pro?
This is why I have said 1000 times (often in this thread), if it isn't broke, don't fix it.

Just leave it alone as long as it spins true and you can't physically feel any spokes loose... and by "physically feel" I mean grasping the spoke and wiggling it, if it moves, tighten it and if it doesn't, don't. You don't need to loosen up anything you just did or "bring it to a pro". Just stop fucking with shit that don't require fucking wit'.
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:12 PM   #34517
DaymienRules
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ smith View Post
I should have just left the WR on its stand in the basement, but its almost riding season and I got the tinkering bug...
So I dug out the spoke tool and began playing the musical wheel harp. A few spokes were a little off(some had a high tone and some a low tone when struck) without a fancy torquing device or the necessary knowledge, theres no telling for sure. I tightened a few(or loosened?) a 1/2 to 3/4 turn, listened, tried a few more, and then I got the strange feeling that I Have No Idea What I Am Doing. What do you say fellas, did I just ruin a set of perfectly good wheels or is this "adjustment" reversible by bringing it to a pro?
You didn't ruin the wheel, it's not THAT precise. Put it on a stand to get the weight off of the wheel you're working on. Pick one spoke to start with, like the one just past the valve stem. Snug up that spoke, turning no more than a quarter of a turn., less if it is already tight. You'll get a feel for the correct torque pretty quickly, someone once told me to hold the wrench between two fingers like they're chopsticks. Then skip 2 spokes, and repeat on the third one. Go all the way around the wheel 3 times with this pattern, and each spoke should be about the same tension.
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:29 PM   #34518
AZ TOM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ smith View Post
I should have just left the WR on its stand in the basement, but its almost riding season and I got the tinkering bug...
So I dug out the spoke tool and began playing the musical wheel harp. A few spokes were a little off(some had a high tone and some a low tone when struck) without a fancy torquing device or the necessary knowledge, theres no telling for sure. I tightened a few(or loosened?) a 1/2 to 3/4 turn, listened, tried a few more, and then I got the strange feeling that I Have No Idea What I Am Doing. What do you say fellas
I must agree with you. Too much time on your hands Just polish it every day & leave the dang thing alone
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:51 PM   #34519
CJ smith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
if it isn't broke, don't fix it.
Good advice, thanks guys.

If theres a speed wobble when I finally get out on the bike at least I know where to start looking.
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:41 PM   #34520
sieg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
This is why I have said 1000 times (often in this thread), if it isn't broke, don't fix it.

Just leave it alone as long as it spins true and you can't physically feel any spokes loose... and by "physically feel" I mean grasping the spoke and wiggling it, if it moves, tighten it and if it doesn't, don't. You don't need to loosen up anything you just did or "bring it to a pro". Just stop fucking with shit that don't require fucking wit'.
good advice ^
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Old 04-06-2013, 02:32 PM   #34521
Red Sand
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My first maintenance day with the WR!
  • Washed the machine
  • Cleaned the chain
  • Lubed the chain
  • Changed the oil & filter
I tossed in 1.5 quarts of BMW 10-40 oil I bought for my other motorcycle but never used . . . will the Yamaha engine spit out that rancid crap from Bavaria? . . . . . .
When I was at the dealer Friday picking up my oil filter and stuff, I walked over to the Honda 650 and looked at it. That was the other machine I was considering buying but I bought the WR instead. After looking at it, I am convinced I made the best choice. I'm sure the Honda 650 is great but I'm already getting into a lot of trouble with just 24 hp, or whatever.
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:12 PM   #34522
HardWorkingDog
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Walnut Crick, Cal.
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Pissed the WRR won't start...

After close to 10,000 miles of flawless running, I gave the WRR a shower this afternoon.
Son asked if he could ride it to the post office, so I gave it a last spray of the hose, dried
off the seat and handed it over.

crank crank crank crank and no start

crank crank crank crank

crank crank crank crank crank

crank crank crank crank crank

nothing. Crap. I'd just got back from Death Valley, ran perfectly. Normally starts after about
2 cranks or less of the starter motor.

crank crank crank crank

crank crank crank crank

crank crank crank crank crank

Damn. He took the XT225, and shouted back , well, at least you've got something
to work on!


crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank

nothing.

So I grab the towel that's sitting on the luggage rack, and yank it off in disgust
only to spot the bright orange FMF exhaust plug I always put in before I wash a bike.

Pulled out the plug, crank PURRRRRRRRRRRR.





The WRR is hard to kill, but an exhaust plug will do it every time.


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Old 04-06-2013, 04:26 PM   #34523
KansasBob
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Location: Topeka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ smith View Post
I should have just left the WR on its stand in the basement, but its almost riding season and I got the tinkering bug...
So I dug out the spoke tool and began playing the musical wheel harp. A few spokes were a little off(some had a high tone and some a low tone when struck) without a fancy torquing device or the necessary knowledge, theres no telling for sure. I tightened a few(or loosened?) a 1/2 to 3/4 turn, listened, tried a few more, and then I got the strange feeling that I Have No Idea What I Am Doing. What do you say fellas, did I just ruin a set of perfectly good wheels or is this "adjustment" reversible by bringing it to a pro?
Your wheel is fine. I laced my first wheel the other day and it was a full 1/2 inch off center when I was done. I kept working at it , and got it moved over the full 1/2 inch. in just a few min. You have to look at the end of the spoke as the end of a bolt.....then right to tight, and left to loosen.
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:36 PM   #34524
Just Bob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post

Pulled out the plug, crank PURRRRRRRRRRRR.



Even funnier when your doing that with a high compression kick start only YZ250.

Multiple times!

Doh....
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:42 PM   #34525
DaymienRules
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Bob View Post
Even funnier when your doing that with a high compression kick start only YZ250.

Multiple times!

Doh....
Same here. And I've watched as a friend did the same thing too. Its funny when it happens to someone else.
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:49 PM   #34526
cjbiker
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My KTM 200 will start with the exhaust plug in. Then I take off and wonder why the bike won't pull like it should
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:56 PM   #34527
sieg
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Why plug the exhaust ???
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:19 PM   #34528
DaymienRules
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It stops water and mud from flowing down into the exhaust when washing it.
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:19 AM   #34529
dnsjo
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Location: Vinton, VA
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
Do you know how much I should raise my front forks with the stock lowering adjustment? All the guides are for guys who threw the yama link in...
I dropped my forks a full 2 inches by adding a Tusk 30mm bar riser (Rocky Mtn ATV). I had dropped the rear at least that much with a Moose 1.75" knuckle and the stock lowering. So far I love the handling. The steering is quick, and there is nary a wobble in corners or at 60+ mph. I doubt I will ever bottom the front end. The bike has a Corbin seat and the original kickstand. Love it.
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:47 AM   #34530
manfromthestix
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Location: Lexington, Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sand View Post
My first maintenance day with the WR!
  • Washed the machine
  • Cleaned the chain
  • Lubed the chain
  • Changed the oil & filter
I tossed in 1.5 quarts of BMW 10-40 oil I bought for my other motorcycle but never used . . . will the Yamaha engine spit out that rancid crap from Bavaria? . . . . . .
When I was at the dealer Friday picking up my oil filter and stuff, I walked over to the Honda 650 and looked at it. That was the other machine I was considering buying but I bought the WR instead. After looking at it, I am convinced I made the best choice. I'm sure the Honda 650 is great but I'm already getting into a lot of trouble with just 24 hp, or whatever.
What kind of BMW oil did you put in? My beemers have all had dry clutches and the WR250R has a wet clutch, so the oil for the WR should be rated for use with a wet clutch. IIRC, there are anti-slip additives in the wet clutch oil that are not found in oil for cars or bikes with dry clutches.

I've owned several 650 dualsports and loved them, but while the extra power is great it comes at the price of many extra pounds. I really like how light and nimble the WR250R feels! It's got plenty of ooomph to get me going as fast as I want to go.

Doug
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