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Old 04-17-2013, 08:17 AM   #34756
dazler
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do the highway dirt bikes mirrors only work with their handguards?
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:19 AM   #34757
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...pretty much but I'd ask. I believe there's another kind of flip out mirror.
Best option for most that don't want the HDB guards is the Double Take's sold in the Vendors here on ADV.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...hlight=mirrors
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:31 AM   #34758
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Originally Posted by dnsjo View Post
Anyone join the FaceBook WR group?


what for ? the thread is right here, on advrider.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:42 AM   #34759
dazler
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Thanks Rapid dog.
I just wanted to make sure since im on the market for a used bike, let me be more specific for a wr250r/x

How hard is to install the autotune from the power commmander?
is there a company out there that you can send the part to get it done for you, any idea how much $$
Thanks!
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:45 AM   #34760
oic0
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A phone mount is the cheapest correct speedo you can get, assuming you own a semi modern phone with GPS. If not you can pick up some really crappy ol android phone for next to nothing and you don't need a sim card to use the GPS alone. Not to mention, if your phone is dead, that one can't make normal calls but it CAN call 911 even without a sim card ;)
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:47 AM   #34761
UtahFox
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Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
...your bike looks great Utah.
Black is besterestess...
Thanks, I agree :) Your bike and one or two others gave me the inspiration.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:48 AM   #34762
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Originally Posted by Mr. Fisherman View Post
The day will come when you need to access the OEM head unit to observe error codes and initiate tests.

Looks pretty good though.
I can get at it in a jiff.
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:51 PM   #34763
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So I seem to see more people going with the 290 Athena kit vs the 280 Thumper Racing kit? Is there a reason behind that?

One of the big advantages I read about the TR kit is that the piston only weighs about 8 grams heavier than stock and according to them if they had gone up to the 290, it would have been 28g more heavier and you can definitely feel that in higher rev's. A lighter piston should rev faster and easier too? I haven't paid attention to what the Athena piston weighs in posts?

I honestly haven't looked into either kit, so one might be way more expensive than the other too? I was just curious?

When I bought my WRR, the guy had both the stock bore one I bought plus one with the 280 Thumper Racing kit. I really liked the way that 280 felt and the engine was amazingly smooth. I'd like to ride it again now that I have some miles on my WRR. I haven't ever ridden one with the 290 Athena kit, so I have nothing to compare it to. I remember when I asked him about why he went with the 280 kit, he had other reasons too, but I've since forgot.

BTW, I'm not in any hurry to big bore mine at this point, although if I rode one, I'd probably change my mind. I actually am very happy with the way it is now, but I remember thinking that 280 gave it a nice kick in the butt on take off and really awakened the bike.

RichardU is who owned my WRR originally. It was his wife's bike. Anyway here's his review on the 280 kit - http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t9...bore-installed
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Old 04-17-2013, 02:00 PM   #34764
scottmac
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Two compression piston rings in the Thumper Racing kit vs the one
compession piston ring with the Athena kit.
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:27 PM   #34765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazler View Post
Thanks Rapid dog.
I just wanted to make sure since im on the market for a used bike, let me be more specific for a wr250r/x

How hard is to install the autotune from the power commmander?
is there a company out there that you can send the part to get it done for you, any idea how much $$
Thanks!
Never done the Autotune but I have done the PC. PC was kind of a bitch due to it's rather bulkier size and I have little remaining room.
I don't have a laptop to program it so out it went.
Stuck with the FMF FI box which is a 15 minute install.
Basically you do the hooking up under the tank using the OEM connectors inline with the box, then I think + and - to the battery.

Quote:
So I seem to see more people going with the 290 Athena kit vs the 280 Thumper Racing kit?...
From what I've read, TR settled on a 280 over a 290 because it was a smoother option...less vibration.
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:46 PM   #34766
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If you're going to spend the money on a big bore kit why not spend the extra and get it properly tuned on a dyno and make sure you are getting a proper a/f ratio to maximize your power/longevity out of your investment?
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:20 PM   #34767
rsteiger
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My WR250R Tuning Journey

So after messing with my FMF programmer and dealing with engine cut off issues and making some pretty drastic adjustment wrt fuel amount and not really seeing any difference on how the bike runs (Ultimate air box mod, AIS gone, DRD Exhaust and then my GSXR can exhaust, 13/48 gearing) other than getting 15 more miles on the bike before the low fuel light came on, I decided to do some more digging so I dug through the "The Official FI Mapping Area" on the WR250R forum.

From what I can see the FMF settings pretty much are all over the place for bikes with similar setups. I tried the settings that had some dyno validation and those were the ones I ran into issues with engine cutoff on slight acceleration at about 60mph. Did some more digging and I found a motorcycle dyno shop about a mile from work.

Went over to the dyno shop and talked with them about what was going on. In there opinion they felt the changes being made by the FMF programmer were to general in nature and didn't necessarily give the bike what it needed at certain RPM, thottle position, and loading scenarios. For the price point they thought the fuel nanny's were a good compromise.

One of the things I struggled with on the FMF is the shear difference in settings that are reported. It appears some time ago the module calibration was changed to allow more fuel to be added for the big bore kits. This might explain the variation in settings since people probably have different calibration levels. To me everything was becoming guess work.

So I installed a PC5 and loaded up Power Commander #6 program (open air box top, Leo Vince Exhuast w/o spark arrestor) to start.

Bike started like crap but seemed to run well. Maybe the start was due in part to having the fuel tank off during the install. Next morning I rode it over to the Dyno shop.

So here is the tale of the Dyno:



25.69 HP @ 9100 RPM

I brought the bike over to him in the morning and we had a discussion about what I wanted out of the tuning. I chose to have a combination of fuel efficiency and good power / driveability and let him work out the details.

As I said before I loaded the Power Commander program #6 to start out since that seemed to be the closest setup to my bike. The dyno guy told me the bike was generally running lean at that setup and he ended up adding some fuel. He dialed the bike in on the dyno then took it out for a spin and didn't like the low speed / low RPM throttle response and went back on the dyno to make some more adjustments.

To be honest my butt dyno can't really pick up a performance difference other than the bike runs smoother and starts better. I also like the peace of mind knowing that I am not running overly rich or lean.

So here is my set up on my WRR:

- 13/48 gearing
- AIS Removed
- Ultimate Air box mode plus the vacuum motor hole on the top (PC 5 is located under the headlight)
- Twin Air filter
- Stock header
- Two Brothers midpipe
- 2001 GSXR 1000 Titanium Silencer (4.1 lbs)
- FMF Spark Arrestor (fits like it was made for the GSXR can)

If you are interested in the calibration file just send me a PM and I will send it to you. Since my set up is a bit 'odd' I don't think I will get many requests.

From my experience on my DR650 the GSXR can flowed a little better than a FMF Q4 based on a dyno comparison. Not sure if the same is true for the WRR (based on today's experience it may flow more than the Leo Vince can) but I liked the GSXR can due to it's light weight, low noise level, and the fact it never needs repacking.
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:08 PM   #34768
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Playing with the CRF250L and WR250R

My wife and I went up to N. GA for the weekend so she could spend some time on her new to her CRF250L and start to bond with it. I took my WRR up there for myself. They seem to make a nice pair together!

By Sunday, she was riding more aggressive and faster than she ever did on her XT225 and she's absolutely fallen in love with the motor. She said it goes when she twists the the throttle and has a ton of engine braking that she takes advantage of. We haven't even dropped to a 13t sprocket yet and she's telling me she's not sure she needs it, but I think its still a little high geared stock like the WRR is. We really have no plans of fuel programmer or anything else like a pipe. She loves how quiet it is and the power and engine characteristics fit her like a glove.

We took lots of GoPro video, but really nothing too interesting. Maybe we'll get some edited and put up.

She's only 5'4"/115lbs/29" inseam so the CRF was a bit tall stock although she could get her toes down. We started with the low Seat Concepts Seat, but honestly it really didn't drop her that much. The stock Honda seat is actually pretty skinny and low to begin with.

I was really hesitant about lowering this bike either by drilling the shock mount or putting in lowering links as I think both ways leave the rear too low compared to the front and you end up with a very poor handling bike that is racked out in the front and won't turn. I noticed she was hardly squatting the suspension with her light weight, so we backed off the shock preload quite a bit to give her some better sag in the shock and I did drop the forks down a bit. Overall those 2 changes seem to have gained her the foot hold she needed to feel comfortable and she really did well on the bike all weekend.

Here's a photo we took of ourselves in front of a big rock cliff. I'm 6'4" and she's 5'4".
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:41 PM   #34769
what broke now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsteiger View Post
My WR250R Tuning Journey








- 13/48 gearing
- AIS Removed
- Ultimate Air box mode plus the vacuum motor hole on the top (PC 5 is located under the headlight)
- Twin Air filter
- Stock header
- Two Brothers midpipe
- 2001 GSXR 1000 Titanium Silencer (4.1 lbs)
- FMF Spark Arrestor (fits like it was made for the GSXR can)

How much net on torque and horsepower do you figure you gained?
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:11 AM   #34770
rsteiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by what broke now View Post
How much net on torque and horsepower do you figure you gained?
That's a good question and I can honestly tell you that in my case I don't know since I did not do a Dyno run before hand - didn't know the shop was there back then.

What I have learned about Dynotesting is that all dynos are not equal. If I were to take the bike into a different shop it is likely I will end up with different horsepower numbers. But they are pretty good at tuning a bike by making multiple runs on the same dyno with different fuel mapping and configurations. But I suspect the guy running the dyno has a lot to do with it too since as he explained to me there is the 'dyno world' and then there is the 'real world'. To be frank this is what steered me away from the autotune feature on the PC 5 - that and hanging more hardware on the bike that has the opportunity to be broken later.

Looking back on the changes I can say the best bang for the buck as measured by the butt dyno was the gearing change.

After that most of the changes were aimed at two things - simplification, weight, and power. I did try a DRD slip-on at one point but I just thought the thing was too loud for what I wanted and then decided to try the old DR650 solution of a GSXR can and midpipe.

What I can share with you is another WRR owner's dyno results who start out with the basic airbox mod and butt dyno FMF settings (22.1 HP).

He then added an FMF powerbomb, Q4 and with FMF adjustments and got to 24.5 HP

After that he removed the airbox door and got it up to 26.8 HP with some additional tweaking.

These runs were all done on the same dyno at the close to the same temperature - the first run was done on a different day than the last 7 runs.

http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-gui...sting/71-dyno2

Can't really compare these numbers to mine since the dyno equipment is different but it gives you a general idea of what gains can be made.
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