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Old 04-29-2013, 11:14 AM   #35116
DougZ73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z@ch View Post
I though Yamaha REDUCED the chain slack measurement to counteract the chain slipping on the OEM rear sprocket.

running too loose is just as risky as too tight. A bigger rear sprocket helps the most, IMO.
You could be right..might be tighter. I never had a huge issue with my chain guide, so I never paid too close attention to what all the posting was about. Generally, on any bike, a looser chain is better than one that is too tight. One that is too tight will not allow the rear suspension to work the way it should, and will probably eat the guide as well.

Shep, as awful is it may be to find, you may have to search through this thread to get the right answer.
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:49 PM   #35117
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Also, don't neglect setting sag. This multiplies the wear if you are riding too low in the shock stroke. EG, sag set for rider only, then you put 40# of tripgear on the back and don't compensate on the preload.
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:52 PM   #35118
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Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
In the spring I put new tires on my bike and had to adjust the chain tension once the wheels were back on... I set the chain tension within specs even though it feels a bit on the tight side.

I just noticed today I am eating into the rubber guard on the swing arm.

Should I just tighten it up more?
Pull the bolt out of the bottom of the shock and run the swingarm up through its complete range of motion. You will easily be able to tell where the chain is at its tightest point. Leave it a little loose at that point and you shouldn't have any problems.

This works on any bike with any gearing and hardly takes any longer than measuring chain slack.

I think the slider being eaten is from chains that are too tight as well. I have run mine too loose with stiff links and my slider is still fine.
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:53 PM   #35119
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Originally Posted by what broke now View Post
Also, don't neglect setting sag. This multiplies the wear if you are riding too low in the shock stroke. EG, sag set for rider only, then you put 40# of tripgear on the back and don't compensate on the preload.
This is true too. Many of the reports of chain slider wear are from people on the road loaded up with gear that have never had the problem before. They probably had an in spec or slightly tight chain to begin with and then loaded their bikes up and.......
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:54 PM   #35120
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Originally Posted by Subaru297 View Post
Pull the bolt out of the bottom of the shock and run the swingarm up through its complete range of motion. You will easily be able to tell where the chain is at its tightest point. Leave it a little loose at that point and you shouldn't have any problems.

This works on any bike with any gearing and hardly takes any longer than measuring chain slack.

I think the slider being eaten is from chains that are too tight as well. I have run mine too loose with stiff links and my slider is still fine.
Hmm, I go through sliders like crazy. I'm going to try your method! ;) My preload is at max too. Most of my riding is off-road. I weigh about 275# with gear too. :(
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:55 PM   #35121
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Originally Posted by indypup View Post
Hmm, I go through sliders like crazy. I'm going to try your method! ;)
Let us know how it works for you. It is surprisingly quick and easy to do as long as you have a stand for your bike.
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:56 PM   #35122
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Originally Posted by Subaru297 View Post
Pull the bolt out of the bottom of the shock and run the swingarm up through its complete range of motion. You will easily be able to tell where the chain is at its tightest point. Leave it a little loose at that point and you shouldn't have any problems.

This works on any bike with any gearing and hardly takes any longer than measuring chain slack.

I think the slider being eaten is from chains that are too tight as well. I have run mine too loose with stiff links and my slider is still fine.
+1. This is the only way to be sure your chain tension is correct.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:41 PM   #35123
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In the middle of a week long tour, piecing it together from as many dirt roads as possible. At the southern end of the Smoky Mountain road I came along a camp site that compares with the best I've been to. The Smoky Mountain road was a blast, with a mix of sand and slickrock in which the bike performed flawlessly, its better than I am. I'll post a link with more photos when I get home.

Doubt there was anyone within ten miles of me in this pic, you can just see the road descending with Lake Powell in the backround.

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Old 04-29-2013, 03:09 PM   #35124
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In the middle of a week long tour, piecing it together from as many dirt roads as possible. At the southern end of the Smoky Mountain road I came along a camp site that compares with the best I've been to. The Smoky Mountain road was a blast, with a mix of sand and slickrock in which the bike performed flawlessly, its better than I am. I'll post a link with more photos when I get home.

Doubt there was anyone within ten miles of me in this pic, you can just see the road descending with Lake Powell in the backround.

Wow, paradise!
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:18 PM   #35125
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Jesus Christ, $450 for that???

That's 30% of the cost of my WRR, used.
After scouring the interweb, it appears the Extreme Race Light may not be DOT approved for use on the street. Friggin' cool light, but Wisconsin Troopers will likely fine you and make you trailer it home. If there's not a trace of blue to the tint, you might get lucky and skate past them....might.
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:40 PM   #35126
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Originally Posted by Subaru297 View Post
Pull the bolt out of the bottom of the shock and run the swingarm up through its complete range of motion. You will easily be able to tell where the chain is at its tightest point. Leave it a little loose at that point and you shouldn't have any problems.

Three questions:

#1 - Is it difficult to get the shock bolted up again?

#2 - It would seem like this procedure should only have to be done once - after setting the chain tension, put the bike on the stand, put it in first gear, measure the slack at "midway" and always keep this tension - true?

#3 - How important is it to adjust the chain when it's "warmed up" - is there a significant or noticeable difference in slack between a cold chain and a "just ridden" chain?
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:14 PM   #35127
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>"I weigh about 275# with gear too. :( "

Yup... same problem here. I went to a 14t countershaft sprocket and there is almost no wear on the chain guard. Replace the chain guard at 7k for a trip to Death Valley, it was like new, so I hung it up for a spare.
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:23 PM   #35128
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Originally Posted by z@ch View Post
running too loose is just as risky as too tight. A bigger rear sprocket helps the most, IMO.
Or a bigger front, depending on who you ask.
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:29 PM   #35129
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Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
Shep, as awful is it may be to find, you may have to search through this thread to get the right answer.
You can read 'em all, but there isn't 1 definitive answer.

Check the chain slider often. Keep a replacement in your shop.
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:30 PM   #35130
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>"#1 - Is it difficult to get the shock bolted up again?"

Not if you have a center stand... so the bike can be supported in the middle, swingarm sags, pretty easy.

I haven't pulled the shock to adjust my chain... had my son climb on the bike (he's big), then I leaned on the back of the bike and felt the chain tension... that is with the swing arm nearly level. It took a bit to set the tension as tightening the axle bolt changes it!

Get off, tighten axle, shit the tension is wrong, loosen axle, son back on, and re-do it... (a couple times).

>#2 - It would seem like this procedure should only have to be done once - after setting the chain tension, put the bike on the stand, put it in first gear, measure the slack at "midway" and always keep this tension - true?"

IMHO: If you get the chain tension set properly, you can 'remember it', or pick some sort of tool, or fingers, or whatever to set it in the future.

>"#3 - How important is it to adjust the chain when it's "warmed up" - is there a significant or noticeable difference in slack between a cold chain and a "just ridden" chain? "

Dunno. I just set mine up at whatever temp it is outside.

Important stuff.

1) Chain properly tensioned and aligned.
2) Chain has no binding links.
3) If you're light... a 13 tooth sprocket is ok. Heavy like I am... 14 tooth.
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