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Old 05-03-2013, 01:30 PM   #35251
AZ TOM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftystrat62 View Post
Anyone know what size "mm" forks we have? I'm looking to pick up Motion Pro Fork Seal Bullet to help assist me doing my fork oil change.
Not needed to change fork oil. Remove fork, remove top cap, turn upside down, drain & refill. I think the forks are 48mm
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:50 PM   #35252
skierd
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Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
Hey guys,

When I put my FMF pipe on I removed the exup cables and wrangled up one of them in the process...

If I put the stock pipe back on does the valve stay open? Is it fine without the cables?
Yes, it'll be fine. Default position of the valve is open.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:53 PM   #35253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shep546 View Post
Hey guys,

When I put my FMF pipe on I removed the exup cables and wrangled up one of them in the process...

If I put the stock pipe back on does the valve stay open? Is it fine without the cables?
FMF Too Loud?
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:59 PM   #35254
shep546
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FMF Too Loud?
Nope I was just wondering if I should bother keeping my stock pipe at all for when I sell it
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:39 PM   #35255
Sewerat
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Yes the valve will stay open. Mine was removed when I got the bike, fmf blew apart and was too loud so stock went back on. I have put a small tack wld on the valve just in case but the spring holds it in the open position.
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:43 PM   #35256
leftystrat62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ TOM View Post
Not needed to change fork oil. Remove fork, remove top cap, turn upside down, drain & refill. I think the forks are 48mm
Have you done yours yet? I watched the Rocky Mountain ATV's videos on changing fork sealshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0dLM_IoIOQ&list=FLQhV95i5-Hmi3fttrWqaE4g&index=37

Although my seals aren't leaking,I thought it seems like I needed to do the same process for changing the oil?? If you have done it the other way that sure would make life a lot easier.
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:27 PM   #35257
what broke now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftystrat62 View Post
Have you done yours yet? I watched the Rocky Mountain ATV's videos on changing fork sealshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0dLM_IoIOQ&list=FLQhV95i5-Hmi3fttrWqaE4g&index=37

Although my seals aren't leaking,I thought it seems like I needed to do the same process for changing the oil?? If you have done it the other way that sure would make life a lot easier.

Yeah, what Tom said, except the forks are 46mm not 48.
The oil pours out the top after the cap is removed. The twitchy part is you have to remove the spring to properly measure the oil level once it is renewed, then replace the spring and walk the damper rod up between the coils. Do-able but tiresome.

If you did three sets of forks one after the other, the last one would take half the time as the fisrt.
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:49 AM   #35258
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Came home with a 09 WR250R with 1600 miles. Paid $4000 for it. Looking forward to get some protections before I take her off road.
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:13 AM   #35259
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Came home with a 09 WR250R with 1600 miles. Paid $4000 for it. Looking forward to get some protections before I take her off road.
Welcome to the club! ;)
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Old 05-04-2013, 06:05 AM   #35260
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yes, a spring holds it open as a default.
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:09 AM   #35261
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Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
So what is this gearing effect you speak of here? If you left the stock gearing what would be the effect then?
If a rear tires has a larger circumference than stock, the effect is like taller gearing, because the bike travels a little further on each revolution of the tire. On mine, it seems that the 13/47 combination with the MT43 is about the same as the stock 13/43 gearing with a standard 120/80-18 tire. A D606 rear, which is a little larger than stock (120/90-18), is somewhere in-between.
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:14 AM   #35262
AZ TOM
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Yes have changed oil many times in the past in the forks & finally settled on 17 oz synthetic ATF in each leg. Have also done seals once. PVC pipe of the right diameter cut in half makes a good seal driver.
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:43 AM   #35263
Red Sand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Advental View Post
Came home with a 09 WR250R with 1600 miles. Paid $4000 for it. Looking forward to get some protections before I take her off road.
Congrats!

I just purchased a new set of boots, helmet, goggles, gloves, knee protectors, pressure suit (upper body armor), riding pants, and camo thong.

Don't skimp on gear that's either not going to fit well or perform poorly in the weather you'll be riding in. My budget for this stuff was "moderate" but I still forked out $1200 and I don't regret it.





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Old 05-04-2013, 07:51 AM   #35264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
If a rear tires has a larger circumference than stock, the effect is like taller gearing, because the bike travels a little further on each revolution of the tire. On mine, it seems that the 13/47 combination with the MT43 is about the same as the stock 13/43 gearing with a standard 120/80-18 tire. A D606 rear, which is a little larger than stock (120/90-18), is somewhere in-between.
Wouldn't taller gearing be a good thing? Yesterday I rode 500 miles, and often I had to gear down to maintain speed on the freeway over mountain passes. Would simply going to the MT43 help? I'm not being a troll here, just trying to understand.
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:09 AM   #35265
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Taller gearing is; faster, higher speed, less RPM, less power, more downshifting on hills, lower numerical final ratio,(like 3.37 to 1 is taller than 4.11 to 1), from your description I believe you want just the opposite. Lower gears, shorter gears etc...... Get the picture now?
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