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Old 05-10-2013, 08:44 AM   #35386
UtahFox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
FYI, I installed ProTaper bars with about 4" of rise (Windham/RM MID bend) plus have the Rox 2" risers and didn't have to replace any cables or wiring.

The clutch cable is now at the very edge of being too short when the bars are at full lock, but still okay. I did turn over the throttle grip assembly so the cables are now coming out underneath instead of above the handlebar. Also, I used some black window glazing to plug the drain hole in the throttle assembly which is now on top instead of the bottom.

I'm 6' 1" and also have the Fastway pegs in the lower position and this combined with the bars/risers makes the bike just about right for me when standing.
Thanks for that. Well, I guess if the pegs aren't enough (I'm 5'9") then I'll go ahead with the Tusks and see what happens.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:47 AM   #35387
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Originally Posted by The Yeti View Post
My fuel pump finally went out on my '08. Where do I order a new one? Is there an aftermarket solution that would last longer?

Thanks!
The cheapest price I've seen on the OEM pump is at Ron Ayers. If you search around, there's some indication that the CA Cycleworks aftermarket pump will fit, but it appears that they've changed the design to better work on the Husabergs and Huskies and made it incompatible with the WRR.

How many miles on your WR? How did the failure manifest itself?
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:53 AM   #35388
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Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
To me, it seems that chain and sprocket wear should be seen as one issue. I always change both sprockets and chain at the same time. I assume most folks do too, because the worn chain and new sprocket teeth would work against one another to shorten the useable life of each, right?

From conversations with friends who use ATF I'm sure it is a very good way to lube chains.

However, there's no getting around the fact that it's messy and time consuming (see description above).

My last DID X-ring chain went over 26K miles and was lubed about every other tankful (around 200 miles) with the Teflon spray, usually right after I came into the garage from a ride and the chain was "warmed up." The entire procedure takes less than a minute.

I simply spray a generous amount of the Teflon lube on the chain on a single rotation of the chain length, beginning and ending at the master link. Then use an old rag to wipe off the excess solvent/propellant. Done!

As mentioned above, using this method the chain was still good even after the sprockets were too worn (hooked) to continue using them. To me, that's all I want from a chain, because I'm not going to try to get a little more life from a worn chain and destroy new sprockets.

Suppose the use of ATF gave the chain another few thousand miles of potential life, I can't see how it would have increased the sprocket life as well, so, for me, using ATF would only mean I'm discarding a slightly less worn chain that would be taken off anyway due to sprocket wear.

So the bottom line for me is that I'm pleased with the time and convenience factor of the Teflon vs. ATF to give me intervals for chain AND sprocket replacement that would be the same anyway, due to sprocket wear.

My 2
It's funny, I read this post (Jan 2010) back when I had my Scrambler. That and the Webbikeworld review of teflon spray are the reasons I use it now, though I am going to try SS-51 for a while.

Is there any easy way to identify the master link on our chains? I'm breaking mine today, does it even matter?
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:03 AM   #35389
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Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
It's funny, I read this post (Jan 2010) back when I had my Scrambler. That and the Webbikeworld review of teflon spray are the reasons I use it now, though I am going to try SS-51 for a while.

Is there any easy way to identify the master link on our chains? I'm breaking mine today, does it even matter?
I would say it doesn't matter. If you are reusing the same chain again, you will need a new o-ring master link.

On the subject of sprockets, here is a photo of what my front looks like at about 6K miles - quite a bit of tooth hook:





I am now at 20K and the rear sprocket is finally showing some curve in the teeth, so I will be doing the full chain and sprockets changeover. First chain lasted for 14K until it got enough tight links for me to want to change it. I just use wd-40 to clean and lube the chain.
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BluePill screwed with this post 05-10-2013 at 09:11 AM
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:05 AM   #35390
The Yeti
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Originally Posted by cjbiker View Post
The cheapest price I've seen on the OEM pump is at Ron Ayers. If you search around, there's some indication that the CA Cycleworks aftermarket pump will fit, but it appears that they've changed the design to better work on the Husabergs and Huskies and made it incompatible with the WRR.

How many miles on your WR? How did the failure manifest itself?
Thanks for the reply!

Embarrassing to say, but I've only got about 6K on the clock.

Late last season, I loaned the bike to a friend and he said after riding it a couple times it just wouldn't start for him, I stuck it in storage until yesterday.

Went out to try and start it and it started right up on first try, but after shutting her down the next few turns of the key produced no sound from the pump and she would crank but not start.

This does sound like the fuel pump, right?
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:16 AM   #35391
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Originally Posted by The Yeti View Post
Thanks for the reply!

Embarrassing to say, but I've only got about 6K on the clock.

Late last season, I loaned the bike to a friend and he said after riding it a couple times it just wouldn't start for him, I stuck it in storage until yesterday.

Went out to try and start it and it started right up on first try, but after shutting her down the next few turns of the key produced no sound from the pump and she would crank but not start.

This does sound like the fuel pump, right?
The usual failure mode is that the pump works OK when the fuel is cool, but fails when it is hot - e.g. after sitting out in the hot summer sun during the day. It could also be corrosion at some electrical contact - harness connector, relay, etc. - since it has been sitting. My WR is a 02/08 build date, so I just changed the pump out as a precaution. $250 worth of insurance in my book.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:22 AM   #35392
simmons1
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Originally Posted by BluePill View Post
My WR is a 02/08 build date, so I just changed the pump out as a precaution. $250 worth of insurance in my book.
I did the same thing. My replacement pump failed after 4k miles. I put the original pump back in and it has been working perfect the last several thousand miles.

I guess what I am saying is that replacing the pump as a precautionary measure is no guarantee that you won't have a fuel pump problem.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:22 AM   #35393
Reposado1800
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Originally Posted by The Yeti View Post
My fuel pump finally went out on my '08. Where do I order a new one? Is there an aftermarket solution that would last longer?

Thanks!
Service Honda has great prices. That is where I got mine.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:23 AM   #35394
Reposado1800
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Originally Posted by simmons1 View Post
I did the same thing. My replacement pump failed after 4k miles. I put the original pump back in and it has been working perfect the last several thousand miles.

I guess what I am saying is that replacing the pump as a precautionary measure is no guarantee that you won't have a fuel pump problem.
My replacement pump had a distinctly different sound while running. I took that as an indicator that it was a newer version.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:24 AM   #35395
flyaway
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Has anyone figured out what is actually going on with the early fuel pumps and what it takes to repair them, as an alternative to buying a replacement?
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:37 AM   #35396
cjbiker
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Originally Posted by flyaway View Post
Has anyone figured out what is actually going on with the early fuel pumps and what it takes to repair them, as an alternative to buying a replacement?
Yeah, it's in this thread somewhere, about thirty thousand posts back

The theory that I've read here and on the WR forum is that the fit of the impeller in the pump housing is too tight, and after a little fuel varnish builds up, it locks up when hot.

My new-to-me 08 has less than 5k miles on it, and I'm wondering when/if the pump will go. The PO owned it for a couple years and never rode it, so it sat with nasty old fuel quite a bit. If the fuel varnish theory is correct, I may be in trouble. I haven't had any problems yet, but it's not warm here in Maine yet...
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:41 AM   #35397
The Yeti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluePill View Post
The usual failure mode is that the pump works OK when the fuel is cool, but fails when it is hot - e.g. after sitting out in the hot summer sun during the day. It could also be corrosion at some electrical contact - harness connector, relay, etc. - since it has been sitting. My WR is a 02/08 build date, so I just changed the pump out as a precaution. $250 worth of insurance in my book.
Hmmm....so maybe not the fuel pump.

I think I'll take it down to my local mechanic to diagnose and go from there.

Thanks!
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:42 AM   #35398
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+1 on the HDB handguards

That's why they call it Boulder CO
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:42 AM   #35399
zekester63
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Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
I hope I am not repeating common knowledge here, I've spent some time searching to find the answer to no avail.

I have an X, and just purchased some W wheels. The X wheels will be getting a 45t, the W's will be getting a 47t. ( I am currently using the stock 13/42, and 1st is just too tall. 6th actually feels about right. I'm coming from an XT225 which has a REALLY wide ratio.)

1.-I am curious how much slack the axle blocks take up(the site mentions 13mm, but what does this equate to in terms of links?) Will reversing them leave you with a similar amount of chain slack between the two different sprockets (45 and 47t)? Does anybody have experience with this?

2.- I know some people talked about the X fork guards rubbing R wheels, is this the case the other way around, and do the X guards need to be modified to run R wheels. I will be switching out the X brake setup for an R setup when switching wheels as well.

Thanks everybody!
As far as rubbing goes, I have an X and I run both X and R wheels with no problems, swapping them based on the riding I'll be doing. There is no rubbing at all up front with my 606. I've got my swap down to about 30 minutes, front and rear, including the front caliper swap/bleeding.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:24 AM   #35400
jon_l
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Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
I had the same issue, which makes things interesting when you hit a bump and yank the throttle. Bar risers would probably be the best answer, but I don't want to deal with the clutch & throttle cables. I installed some Fastaway footpegs which have a lower option - haven't tried them yet as the bike is going to be on the lift till Tuesday.
I installed Tusk 1-1/4" risers, no affect on cables. ~$20
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