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Old 05-10-2013, 10:42 AM   #35401
AZ TOM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyaway View Post
+1 on the HDB handguards

That's why they call it Boulder CO
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:42 AM   #35402
zekester63
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Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
I hope I am not repeating common knowledge here, I've spent some time searching to find the answer to no avail.

I have an X, and just purchased some W wheels. The X wheels will be getting a 45t, the W's will be getting a 47t. ( I am currently using the stock 13/42, and 1st is just too tall. 6th actually feels about right. I'm coming from an XT225 which has a REALLY wide ratio.)

1.-I am curious how much slack the axle blocks take up(the site mentions 13mm, but what does this equate to in terms of links?) Will reversing them leave you with a similar amount of chain slack between the two different sprockets (45 and 47t)? Does anybody have experience with this?

2.- I know some people talked about the X fork guards rubbing R wheels, is this the case the other way around, and do the X guards need to be modified to run R wheels. I will be switching out the X brake setup for an R setup when switching wheels as well.

Thanks everybody!
As far as rubbing goes, I have an X and I run both X and R wheels with no problems, swapping them based on the riding I'll be doing. There is no rubbing at all up front with my 606. I've got my swap down to about 30 minutes, front and rear, including the front caliper swap/bleeding.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:24 AM   #35403
jon_l
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Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
I had the same issue, which makes things interesting when you hit a bump and yank the throttle. Bar risers would probably be the best answer, but I don't want to deal with the clutch & throttle cables. I installed some Fastaway footpegs which have a lower option - haven't tried them yet as the bike is going to be on the lift till Tuesday.
I installed Tusk 1-1/4" risers, no affect on cables. ~$20
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:34 AM   #35404
Rainshadow
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Originally Posted by The Yeti View Post
Hmmm....so maybe not the fuel pump.

I think I'll take it down to my local mechanic to diagnose and go from there.

Thanks!
Try opening the throttle all the way, holding it there, and then try to start it. Some folks have found that will solve the problem you are describing.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:43 AM   #35405
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Can anybody show me a few homemade solutions to the rear fender on the wrr? The PO took a sawzall to the rear fender, attached his license plate to the fender bracket, and then bent his license plate to make a defacto rear fender between the bracket and the stock taillight. Unfortunately Oregon license plates are too small to reach. I've got several offers to send me stock rear fenders, but wanted to see if there was another solution.
Thanks!
Mongo fix! Big crescent wrenches make skinny metal bracket bend good. Mongo happy now that license plate goes on so he can ride legal.

Just need to run to the Home Despot to pick up a little piece of aluminum to use as a back plate so the roost isn't hammering my license plate directly.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:43 AM   #35406
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Originally Posted by Rainshadow View Post
Try opening the throttle all the way, holding it there, and then try to start it. Some folks have found that will solve the problem you are describing.
I'll give it a shot after work, thanks!

So, if this is the fix - what is the problem causing it????
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:47 AM   #35407
Rainshadow
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Originally Posted by The Yeti View Post
I'll give it a shot after work, thanks!

So, if this is the fix - what is the problem causing it????
No idea. Several folks, including Big Dog, have mentioned that there bike wouldn't start after sitting for a while and they found that this cleared the problem. I never saw an explanation.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:11 PM   #35408
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Originally Posted by Rainshadow View Post
No idea. Several folks, including Big Dog, have mentioned that there bike wouldn't start after sitting for a while and they found that this cleared the problem. I never saw an explanation.

Can't hurt to try. :)

Shouldn't the fuel pump hum each and every time I turn the key on, or am I not remembering right?
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:16 PM   #35409
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Fuel pump trouble

I had a issue the first of the season when I went to start my WR. I thought it might of been the battery since it was the original in my 08. The battery cranked but ran down fairly quick. I bought a new battery and tried again only to have it just sit and crank. I thought it was the fuel pump then but I could hear the pump start up when I turned on the key. All of a sudden it just popped and started right up and I had no trouble since. This had to be something to do with sitting over the winter but I don't know what. I have had the bike for a few years and this is the first time this has happen.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:40 PM   #35410
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Originally Posted by viper770 View Post
hell yea 1 down now thats what a vacation should be

+1
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:41 PM   #35411
simmons1
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Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
My replacement pump had a distinctly different sound while running. I took that as an indicator that it was a newer version.
So did my replacement pump until if failed.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:49 PM   #35412
Rainshadow
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Originally Posted by The Yeti View Post
Can't hurt to try. :)

Shouldn't the fuel pump hum each and every time I turn the key on, or am I not remembering right?
Mine doesn't hum every time. Then again I haven't had the bike too long, it's an '08 and I have a spare fuel pump sitting in a box waiting to do go when/if mine fails.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:36 PM   #35413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Yeti View Post
I'll give it a shot after work, thanks!

So, if this is the fix - what is the problem causing it????
Of the many possibilities, one that is easy to check is the kill switch on the handlebar. Before turning the key on, cycle the kill switch off and on a few times to clean its contacts of possible corrosion. After finishing with the switch in the on position, turn on the ignition key switch and you should hear the normal fuel pump priming sound.


As far as the trick of opening the throttle to start, it could also be corrosion at the throttle position sensor. A few cycles of the throttle can clean those contacts also.
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:27 PM   #35414
The Yeti
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Originally Posted by BluePill View Post
Of the many possibilities, one that is easy to check is the kill switch on the handlebar. Before turning the key on, cycle the kill switch off and on a few times to clean its contacts of possible corrosion. After finishing with the switch in the on position, turn on the ignition key switch and you should hear the normal fuel pump priming sound.


As far as the trick of opening the throttle to start, it could also be corrosion at the throttle position sensor. A few cycles of the throttle can clean those contacts also.
I tried the kill switch thing, didn't seem to help. Are you saying that every time you cycle the kill switch then turn the key, the fuel pump should make noise?

Will try the throttle cycle tonight, thanks!
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:36 PM   #35415
ArmyJoe
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Oops.



No damage, just momentarily stuck trying to get over my first log "in the field."
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