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Old 05-26-2013, 09:10 AM   #35776
BluePill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_PDX View Post
What are your settings on the FMF? Were they they same as before? I've had that problem before with some settings, it really scares the piss off of a ya. Common fix was make sure the 5th setting is a 6+.

See http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t4...ammer-problems
Have you bypassed the tuner to verify that it's not some other problem - e.g. fuel pump or ignition coil/module?
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:03 PM   #35777
RichardU
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WR250R for sale

Too many bikes, not enough time. I just listed my WR250R for sale here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=890238
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:42 PM   #35778
sturgeon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sewerat View Post
Do tell.

I wear em till I make contact in between the knobs
I've got a pair of the original OEM tires that I'll never use, Probably got about 3K on 'em. Yours for a beer or two at the next KW thing at which we're both present.

You missed EOAR.
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:49 PM   #35779
sturgeon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sturgeon View Post
I've got a pair of the original OEM tires that I'll never use, Probably got about 3K on 'em. Yours for a beer or two at the next KW thing at which we're both present.

You missed EOAR.
Sorry, make that 4,500 km. TW's, still OK, at least by your standards I just don't like 'em, but for commuting they'd be fine.
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:59 PM   #35780
scottmac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluePill View Post
Have you bypassed the tuner to verify that it's not some other problem - e.g. fuel pump or ignition coil/module?
It only started doing this directly following the programmer swap. The
bike is an 08 ad the fuel pump has been replaced. The motor does not
die when the problem occurs, it just cuts out and fires again as soon
as you roll off of the throttle. My guess is if the fuel pump or coil were
going south it would be missing across the entire throttle range and
not in just this one specific range.

I was running the FMF factory default settings when it first occurred. I
now have it set at 3,4,.5,8,4.5,4.

Thanks SCOTT_PDX for the tip on the fifth # being 6+. I'll give that
a try and make some test runs.
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Old 05-26-2013, 03:16 PM   #35781
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeazyBuddha View Post
What specific handlebars did you go with? Did you also do risers?

Actually, this is a good question for "everyone". If you replaced the OEM handlebars, what did you go with and why? Did you add risers?

TIA
I have factory bars, because they work and I'm cheap.

I have Tusk 1-1/4" risers because they're cheap ($20).

This set-up works much better than stock for standing, takes 5 minutes to install, and costs $20.
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:02 PM   #35782
Sewerat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
I have factory bars, because they work and I'm cheap.

I have Tusk 1-1/4" risers because they're cheap ($20).

This set-up works much better than stock for standing, takes 5 minutes to install, and costs $20.
They work if you don't lie thinking your going straight??? Factory bars are know to bend if you look sideways at them. Normally bend on your way home from the dealership, the irate time they are tied down.
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:37 PM   #35783
cjbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
I have factory bars, because they work and I'm cheap.

I have Tusk 1-1/4" risers because they're cheap ($20).

This set-up works much better than stock for standing, takes 5 minutes to install, and costs $20.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sewerat View Post
They work if you don't lie thinking your going straight??? Factory bars are know to bend if you look sideways at them. Normally bend on your way home from the dealership, the irate time they are tied down.
I'm running the cheapo Tusk risers with OEM bars, because I had the risers and the OEM bars are straight, for now

When I bend them, I'll go with the Tusk ATV fat bars and 7/8" to 1-1/8" adapters. Somewhere in this thread someone said that combo will work with the stock cables. If my math is right, it's just about the same as the stock bars and Tusk risers.
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:07 PM   #35784
MoBill
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Hey all...hope you're well, been off the net a bit. Hope all is good.

Anyone know what this is?
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:34 PM   #35785
EEKAMOUSE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmac View Post
It only started doing this directly following the programmer swap. The
bike is an 08 ad the fuel pump has been replaced. The motor does not
die when the problem occurs, it just cuts out and fires again as soon
as you roll off of the throttle. My guess is if the fuel pump or coil were
going south it would be missing across the entire throttle range and
not in just this one specific range.

I was running the FMF factory default settings when it first occurred. I
now have it set at 3,4,.5,8,4.5,4.

Thanks SCOTT_PDX for the tip on the fifth # being 6+. I'll give that
a try and make some test runs.
Yeah I had to bump up the fifth setting to +6 to and it fixed it Dobek makes these controllers I would call them if you have any more problems Dobek Performance.
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Old 05-27-2013, 04:03 AM   #35786
VTbeemer
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Bar end

Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
Hey all...hope you're well, been off the net a bit. Hope all is good.

Anyone know what this is?


Handlebar end weight...
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:32 AM   #35787
UtahFox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
Hey all...hope you're well, been off the net a bit. Hope all is good.

Anyone know what this is?
Chain roller?
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Old 05-27-2013, 03:11 PM   #35788
BluePill
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If the bike runs without it, it's optional and un-needed.
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Old 05-27-2013, 03:58 PM   #35789
sieg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeazyBuddha View Post
Actually, this is a good question for "everyone". If you replaced the OEM handlebars, what did you go with and why? Did you add risers?
TIA
YZ 80 bars, taller and narrower, but still have room for the controls and mirrors and stuff. Unlike when you shorten big bike bars, YZ 80 bars are shorter in the middle.
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Old 05-27-2013, 04:29 PM   #35790
AZ TOM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmac View Post
It only started doing this directly following the programmer swap. The
bike is an 08 ad the fuel pump has been replaced. The motor does not
die when the problem occurs, it just cuts out and fires again as soon
as you roll off of the throttle. My guess is if the fuel pump or coil were
going south it would be missing across the entire throttle range and
not in just this one specific range.

I was running the FMF factory default settings when it first occurred. I
now have it set at 3,4,.5,8,4.5,4.

Thanks SCOTT_PDX for the tip on the fifth # being 6+. I'll give that
a try and make some test runs.
Probably dumb question but how about putting the old programmer back on & seeing what you've got?
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