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Old 06-14-2013, 04:46 AM   #36091
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
Bracket didn't require any mods although the mounting holes are designed to line up with somwher on a DR farme.
I used cable clamps to mount the tube to the bracket and around the WR frame rail.


Thank you Rapid
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:26 AM   #36092
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It seems most people accept the notion that "bike nirvana" is elusive - there never has been nor will there ever be just one motorcycle that "does everything great" and all have pros & cons.

Certainly nothing wrong with making improvements to performance or aesthetics, comfort, or whatever, but the idea of spending thousands to get up to thirty three hp isn't appealing or necessary to me. Anymore.

I am most impressed with people who rack up tons of dual purpose miles, on road and off, than I am with all the "stuff", the bells and whistles that get tossed on WR's. I'm not impressed with speed, in context of dual purpose riding, but I do love all the experiences people share of going places, seeing beautiful scenery, having fun, getting away from their routines in order to pursue the enjoyment of life that only a dual sport motorcycle can provide. It's an incredibly interesting and rewarding concept: "Yours goes faster but mine will take me anywhere"

Perhaps something is wrong with me because, the more miles I put on my machine, the more I realize I'm still able to have boatloads of fun with my "mostly stock" WR250R. There is a nearly infinite list of mods that, dollar for fun factor, really aren't worth the "added value" in my opinion. Some mods are essential. We're all different in our opinions - and there's nothing wrong with that, of course.

I feel incredibly fortunate to have a few other activities which are draining cash from my pocket, and require time from the daily grind so it seems that not having the WR as my only interest in life helps me find a very happy balance in life.

I really do enjoy seeing and reading about the amazing upgrades that some of you are doing but we're all part of the same family either "bone stock" or "heavily modded." Very early on, I almost dumped $2K in mine to improve the performance but after taking time to really figure out what this thing will do, evaluating my riding style and skill level, I sorted out the priorities in my life and rediscovered that keeping it safe, reliable and racking up many miles are all equally "Number One" in my play book. I think my upgrades are "fairly done" and I only spent ~$800 plus a few tools. For now, that'll do just fine and I'm very happy.


Ride safe, ride often, enjoy it!
<--- but not too much

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Old 06-14-2013, 05:59 AM   #36093
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Originally Posted by theMISSIONARY View Post
Just to stir you up my local yamaha dealer has a new....yes new 2008 wr250x for $9000 on the show room floor and i think they have a wrr and more wrx's in crates
I was in the market for a new bike maybe 10 years ago and was checking out a small multi-brand dealership in Wyoming to see what they had in stock. I was yakking with the owner from whom I had purchased one of my all-time favorite bikes many years earlier about that bike and what an idiot I was to have sold it (a Montesa Cota 247 trials bike, what an incredible machine). He laughed and said he still had a Cota 123 in a crate "back there", and it was over 30 years old! He also had a couple of similar vintage Norton factory-built race bikes still in crates (I wasn't clear on exactly what those were, I think 1971 "Commando Production Racers", but he said they were rare). I tried to buy the Cota from him and he just laughed, said those bikes were his retirement account since he'd paid almost nothing for them when new and they were becoming very valuable now (very rare).

I think that guy was on to something with those bikes (especially the Nortons) but I can't see the same rationale being applied to modern mass-produced Japanese motard or dirt bikes that are only 5 years old. Maybe if he holds them for another 25 years, they'll be like finding a new crated Honda Elsinore 250 or something...

Doug
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:29 AM   #36094
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Originally Posted by Rainshadow View Post
I already promised to not bring up either oil or tires, but I'm holding the snatchy throttle issue in reserve just in case.
When I first got my WR this bugged the shite out of me, actually biffed a time or two because I kilt the engine when I rolled off/back on the throttle at low RPM. Then I noticed that there was some fairly significant slack in the throttle cable that resulted in a slight hesitation between twisting the throttle and getting a response, especially in the roll off/back on scenario. I used the little in-line tension adjuster to take the slack out of the throttle cable and I don't notice any hesitation at all now.

In my experience, all fuel injected motorcycles have a bit of snatchiness at low RPM because FI is either on or off at very low throttle openings, unlike a carbureted bike where you get a smoother fuel flow at low throttle opening/ low RPM. All things considered, I'll take FI over a carb any day. The best solution for that I've found is to keep your two fingers on the clutch lever and let it slip a little so the engine can run at a little higher RPM and won't just stall and dump you on your head.

Doug
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:50 AM   #36095
coresports
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2014 Yamaha WR250R

from our friends up north...looks like no changes besides graphics that i could see.

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/motor...aha-WR250R.htm
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:24 AM   #36096
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sand View Post


Perhaps something is wrong with me because, the more miles I put on my machine, the more I realize I'm still able to have boatloads of fun with my "mostly stock" WR250R. There is a nearly infinite list of mods that, dollar for fun factor, really aren't worth the "added value" in my opinion. Some mods are essential. We're all different in our opinions - and there's nothing wrong with that, of course.
I agree Red. I have done protection (skidplate, Barkbusters), rear rack, bar risers, Sandman sprocket cover and case-saver, Wolfman luggage, tires, and a Seat Concepts seat. Approx $700 all together (skidplate & rack were used). I'm done for the foreseeable future.
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:53 AM   #36097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sand View Post


Perhaps something is wrong with me because, the more miles I put on my machine, the more I realize I'm still able to have boatloads of fun with my "mostly stock" WR250R. There is a nearly infinite list of mods that, dollar for fun factor, really aren't worth the "added value" in my opinion. Some mods are essential. We're all different in our opinions - and there's nothing wrong with that, of course.

...says the guy that asked about $150 billet levers.
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Old 06-14-2013, 01:15 PM   #36098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manfromthestix View Post
....

In my experience, all fuel injected motorcycles have a bit of snatchiness at low RPM because FI is either on or off at very low throttle openings, ...

Doug
There's a few things you can do about the snatchy throttle.
Adjusting the TPS (throttle position sensor) is one.
There's some how to at the WR250R Forum.
Another thing you can do besides checking the slack in your cable is to make your twist grip a bit more snug. With bar-end hand guards you can create some friction between the grip and handguard with spacers, o-rings, or simply pushing the grip/throttle assembly against the handguard...just enough to give a slight friction.
Also GPR Throttle Tamer (or other) works great.I've used them on my big twins, but don't think I bothered with the WR after doing the above.
I could go as slow as I wanted in technical stuff on my WR, like a trials bike.
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:08 PM   #36099
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>"In my experience, all fuel injected motorcycles have a bit of snatchiness at low RPM because FI is either on or off at very low throttle openings,"

Bump up the the idle speed... up to 1600-1650 rpm.
Makes a big difference.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:15 PM   #36100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwilightZone View Post
>"In my experience, all fuel injected motorcycles have a bit of snatchiness at low RPM because FI is either on or off at very low throttle openings,"

Bump up the the idle speed... up to 1600-1650 rpm.
Makes a big difference.
Is that process detailed in the manual
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:26 PM   #36101
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Originally Posted by Rainshadow View Post
Is that process detailed in the manual
And without a tachometer, where the heck is 1650 RPM?

I haven't looked, but on my other fuel injected bikes there's just an adjustment screw at the throttle-body end of the throttle cable, twist it "out" and that tensions the cable, slightly opens the throttle, and thus increases the RPM. You could do it with the little in-line tensioner near the throttle grip too, I suppose. I'll try that next time I ride it.

Thanks for the tip!

Doug
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manfromthestix screwed with this post 06-14-2013 at 04:37 PM
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:34 PM   #36102
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Originally Posted by DaymienRules View Post
...says the guy that asked about $150 billet levers.
And then he saw the light, or more likely his wife got wind of his plans for spending all the egg and butter money . We've had that discussion around here...

Seriously, I agree, I don't really care what anyone does to their bikes or even what kind of bike it is, the important thing is that you're out doing something you love and are making it "yours" with whatever custom add-ons you want. More power to you and thanks for boosting the economy, supporting a sport I love, and helping develop options that I might enjoy for myself!

I like what I've got on mine, for now, it's very comfy and performs better than any other 250 DS bike I've ever had. I think I finally got the sag and rebound all set up for my weight and riding style and that made a huge difference in the ride. New tires didn't hurt, either, heh heh. I was blowing down a rutted, pot-holed mountain road at 45 - 50 mph near my house last weekend and the thing was rock solid.

Doug
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:49 PM   #36103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manfromthestix View Post
And without a tachometer, where the heck is 1650 RPM?

I haven't looked, but on my other fuel injected bikes there's just an adjustment screw at the throttle-body end of the throttle cable, twist it "out" and that tensions the cable, slightly opens the throttle, and thus increases the RPM. You could do it with the little in-line tensioner near the throttle grip too, I suppose. I'll try that next time I ride it.

Thanks for the tip!

Doug
I didn't know about the term, "snatchiness", but I recognize it as the attribute that I hate most about my WRR. That low end lurch can cause you to lose traction when you need it most. I have been reading some of the "fixes" mentioned here and elsewhere.

Doug, you seem to have some ideas. Maybe you can help me with mine when we ever get together.

The ultimate fix looks like some adjustment to the (TPS) Throttle-Position-Sensor, but it also looks like it is difficult to get to.
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:08 PM   #36104
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Originally Posted by draley View Post
I didn't know about the term, "snatchiness", but I recognize it as the attribute that I hate most about my WRR. That low end lurch can cause you to lose traction when you need it most. I have been reading some of the "fixes" mentioned here and elsewhere.

Doug, you seem to have some ideas. Maybe you can help me with mine when we ever get together.

The ultimate fix looks like some adjustment to the (TPS) Throttle-Position-Sensor, but it also looks like it is difficult to get to.
x 2

I notice the snatchy throttle off-road, especially when slowly threading through trees hardly father apart than the width of the handle bars.

I am not up for the TPS thing right now. It's riding season and I have not enough time to ride as it is. Also, with no indoor place to work on the bike, I am paranoid about not finishing something I start the same day, since they tend to get hard to move when you're in mid-repair.

Increasing the idle speed a little doesn't sound difficult. I too look forward to Doug reporting back. Hopefully for a photo for slow folks like me.
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:23 PM   #36105
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I found that going to a 47 rear sprocket shifted the torque curve enough that the snatchiness was much less of an issue.
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