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Old 07-16-2013, 03:58 PM   #36601
kawagumby
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It sounds like the aftermarket mods just aren't worth it for some of us, especially if the low-end is compromised in any way. So far, I've put all my extra money into suspension work, as I'm beginning to ride it more on black-diamond narrow technical trails with jumps, square edged holes, etc...
Once you get the suspension dialed in (revalved and resprung) it handles the rough pretty well for a 300 lb bike. You definitely need that low end semi-grunt for lofting the front on the trails I ride - the conditions really don't lend themselves to high rpm's much. IMO, this bike just has enough low end to get the job done with a little weight shifting.
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:57 PM   #36602
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How high can you go? WRR ride height adjustment?

How high can you go on the WRR ride height adjustment? I got to looking at the ride height adjustment on my WRR awhile back and realized it was pretty far in compared to my buddies WRR and I'm taller than he is. I'm 6'4"/250, so the extra ride height is welcomed.

I have the shock off the bike sitting on my work bench and mine was set where the end of the shaft of the shock was dead even with the inside threads of the u-shaped shock mount on the inside. Obviously you need enough threads in that U shaped bolt that it won't come out or be stressed, but I would think you have some play there? Measuring the U-shaped shaft, there is about an 1" of threads in there. Measuring the threaded part of the shaft below the shock adjustment shows just under 1.5" total. So prior to this, I had about an 1" of shaft inside the U-shock mount. Could I go where I have about 1/2" of shaft inside the u-shock mount and about 1" exposed? That's probably about as high as I would feel comfortable with it and should leave plenty of the shaft inside the U-shock mount.
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:48 PM   #36603
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Me too

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
How high can you go on the WRR ride height adjustment? I got to looking at the ride height adjustment on my WRR awhile back and realized it was pretty far in compared to my buddies WRR and I'm taller than he is. I'm 6'4"/250, so the extra ride height is welcomed.
All I can find is posts about lowering the WR, and none of them spell out the procedure. This will be old hat very soon, but as a noob, and considering there is no mention of this "ride height adjustment" in the manual.. The PO of my bike said it was really easy, but I can't figure it out. I'd like the bike as tall as it'll go, then maybe ease it back. Where can I find how to do this? Google didn't get me anywhere.
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Old 07-16-2013, 06:08 PM   #36604
DougZ73
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Originally Posted by ryguy83 View Post
True true, I just don't like stock exhausts,I just need that aftermarket look, to each his own I guess right.


Where ya from in jerz, I'm right around the block from Pnc Arts Center. Ya know where that is?

-ry
I kept the stock header for ease...but have the FMF from the header back.

I am right in the middle of the Pine Barrens....less than 5 min from Ft. Dix if you know where that is.
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Old 07-16-2013, 06:09 PM   #36605
BlueLghtning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by levain View Post
All I can find is posts about lowering the WR, and none of them spell out the procedure. This will be old hat very soon, but as a noob, and considering there is no mention of this "ride height adjustment" in the manual.. The PO of my bike said it was really easy, but I can't figure it out. I'd like the bike as tall as it'll go, then maybe ease it back. Where can I find how to do this? Google didn't get me anywhere.
I figured things out. It's actually pretty easy once you pull the shock off the bike. I put the u-shaped mount in a vice (strong side) and then just broke that nut that butts up against it loose. Once you do that, you can easily see how you can adjust the cleat to lengthen or shorten the shock.

I left 1/2" of threads in the cleat which should be plenty.

While I had the shock out, I added a bunch more preload too. My bike has go-race suspension on it, but the previous owner wasn't nearly as heavy as me, so I'll probably get now springs front/rear for my weight when I get back from my trip.
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Old 07-16-2013, 06:32 PM   #36606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
I kept the stock header for ease...but have the FMF from the header back.

I am right in the middle of the Pine Barrens....less than 5 min from Ft. Dix if you know where that is.
Hell yea I know the pin barrens,I hear its got good riding areas,you get your balls busted out there? Or since the wr is legal/plated they leave u alone
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:00 PM   #36607
mpatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
I figured things out. It's actually pretty easy once you pull the shock off the bike. I put the u-shaped mount in a vice (strong side) and then just broke that nut that butts up against it loose. Once you do that, you can easily see how you can adjust the cleat to lengthen or shorten the shock.

I left 1/2" of threads in the cleat which should be plenty.

While I had the shock out, I added a bunch more preload too. My bike has go-race suspension on it, but the previous owner wasn't nearly as heavy as me, so I'll probably get now springs front/rear for my weight when I get back from my trip.

I tried to figure out where "stock" was and couldn't as far as how much it's screwed in from the factory, is it flush with the bottom of the mount?
On my bike with a lowering link if I have the threads flush on the bottom of the mount the spring/retainer hits the swingarm at full extension. Bought the bike used and have no idea if the p/o changed it or not. Right now with the lowering link I have about 1/4" of threads showing in the mount and the spring/retainer just barely clears the swingarm.

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Old 07-16-2013, 07:44 PM   #36608
BlueLghtning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
I figured things out. It's actually pretty easy once you pull the shock off the bike. I put the u-shaped mount in a vice (strong side) and then just broke that nut that butts up against it loose. Once you do that, you can easily see how you can adjust the cleat to lengthen or shorten the shock.

I left 1/2" of threads in the cleat which should be plenty.

While I had the shock out, I added a bunch more preload too. My bike has go-race suspension on it, but the previous owner wasn't nearly as heavy as me, so I'll probably get now springs front/rear for my weight when I get back from my trip.
Well, the bike is definitely raised up now. I no longer can flat foot it. In fact I'm on the balls of my feet now.

Only downside is now I need a longer side stand by about 3"-4".

Notice the 2x4 turned on it's side under the stand!




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Old 07-16-2013, 09:44 PM   #36609
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You may find it's squirrely on the road with the rear that high.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:06 PM   #36610
BlueLghtning
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Originally Posted by bluzharp View Post
You may find it's squirrely on the road with the rear that high.
Yeah, I'm aware of that. I didn't realize it would actually raise it up that high. I'm waiting for some new parts to come in to finish getting it ready for my trip, then I'll go for a ride and see how things are and might adjust it down, but we'll see.

With all the luggage I'll be carrying though, I don't think it will really ride that high. One of the reasons is the static sag is pretty low too with the high preload now.
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Old 07-17-2013, 03:10 AM   #36611
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by levain View Post
All I can find is posts about lowering the WR, and none of them spell out the procedure. This will be old hat very soon, but as a noob, and considering there is no mention of this "ride height adjustment" in the manual.. The PO of my bike said it was really easy, but I can't figure it out. I'd like the bike as tall as it'll go, then maybe ease it back. Where can I find how to do this? Google didn't get me anywhere.
You're right, lowering is all that gets discussed. The shock clevis lowering process is here:
http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-gui...15-lowering-r2

You can use it to make sure yours is at its highest setting.

I guess you could also have a longer link made, like a Yamalink, but to raise the bike.

A suspension pro could probably help too, killing 2 birds with one stone (credit card), by lengthening the shock as well as addressing its deficiencies. One popular WRR suspension shop is:

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Old 07-17-2013, 05:20 AM   #36612
Mr. Fisherman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by levain View Post
Can't seem to find what I'm looking for...

My new to me WRR has a FMF Q4 and Powerbomb header. I'm gonna put stock exhaust back on.

a) leave powerbomb on? Any gain over stock header WITH stock exhaust?

b) take powerbomb off and put stock header back on?

If there is no power difference, I'll likely remove both. More to sell for farkles I really want. If there is a power difference, I'll likely keep the powerbomb on. Goal here is a quieter bike, not a couple hp.

Thanks.
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Hmm. Alright. Mine is removed. Anybody want to dispute this? What about the AIS? Its been blocked off..
Please just put gas in it and ride it for at least 5 tanks of gas, then leave it alone and ride it some more
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Old 07-17-2013, 05:45 AM   #36613
Subaru297
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Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post

I left 1/2" of threads in the cleat which should be plenty.
This sounds very dangerous to me. The shock is exposed to a very high amount of force. I would not feel safe with it only being screwed in a 1/2 inch into the shock clevis.

Cheers
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:39 AM   #36614
coresports
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just ride it

+5 i was thinking the same thing, when i first got mine....my girlfriend said 'you ride that so much you should just sleep with it'. so i did! j/k



Quote:
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Please just put gas in it and ride it for at least 5 tanks of gas, then leave it alone and ride it some more
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Old 07-17-2013, 12:40 PM   #36615
levain
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Originally Posted by Mr. Fisherman View Post
Please just put gas in it and ride it for at least 5 tanks of gas, then leave it alone and ride it some more
This is great advice! Would you like my neighbors phone # to explain? He called a little bit ago whining about being woken up at 3:00am when I left to go to work
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