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Old 07-26-2013, 10:39 PM   #36841
tmotten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attico View Post
So I bought one of these and had it get dislodged and the bike was in an enclosed trailer. It proceeded to bounce around into the other bikes in the trailer. My advice is that it is useless, if you have one, loop a strap around it to keep it in place. Mine is permanently relegated to the shed. I usually tighten the tied downs just enough to preload the suspension.
I've lost 1 that same way. Didn't cinch it down hard enough and took a potholed road. I drilled 2 holes and tie it to the forks with shoe laces now.

I can't imagine trailering without them. Bouncing the crap out of it risks the straps and bike I reckon. Fine on sealed roads, but potholed and unsealed forestry roads it's nice to know it's firm and stable.

Put it on, cinch it down till the tire squashes and drive.

I just which they made them fluorescent orange. I forget to take them off all the time.
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:40 AM   #36842
BluePill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mullichicken25 View Post

Would a radiator guard have helped me at all here? I know they offer protection against punctures from sticks and rocks, but to they provide additional rigidity and resistance to twisting/bending?


Somewhere back in this thread, there was a discussion about radiator damage. The suggestion was made to remove the two bolts on the outside of the radiator and replace with loose zip ties (about a 3/4 inch loop) so the radiator is no longer rigidly mounted, but can flex a bit on a right hand fall. I did that about 4 years ago, and in spite of a few naps on the right, no rad. damage so far.


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BluePill screwed with this post 07-27-2013 at 01:47 AM
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:04 AM   #36843
simmons1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainshadow View Post
Anybody else have any suggestions?
Mine has done the same thing as long as I have owned it. Since it only does it once at start up why worry about it?
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:06 AM   #36844
Bogus Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mullichicken25 View Post
Would a radiator guard have helped me at all here? I know they offer protection against punctures from sticks and rocks, but to they provide additional rigidity and resistance to twisting/bending?
Yes it will provide a bit more rigidity on side/front impacts... but if you go w/ Flatland there's a design flaw imo, the shroud bolts directly to the radiator. A direct hit on the shroud can deform the radiator to the point where it leaks.

The issue is well known earlier in this thread.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=11489

Possible solutions include zip ties instead of bolts as BluePill mentioned, or fitting two small bars top and bottom as shown in this post:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=16116
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:14 AM   #36845
Bogus Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainshadow View Post
Anybody else have any suggestions?
Have you tried playing with the mixture in diagnostic mode, just to see if it makes any difference? Also maybe check throttle body for air leaks, such as loose or cracked boot between intake/throttle body.
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:14 AM   #36846
manfromthestix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pookguy88 View Post
quick question, what are you guys using for lifts?

I want to use something small/compact like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motocross-Ra...aa8bdc&vxp=mtr

but it seems like it won't go low enough for a WRR...
I went through this scenario when I bought my WR as well. When I was a kid I could lift my motocrossers onto a static stand without issue, but I ruptured a disc in my back last year and doing stuff like that is OUT of the question forever more. So, I checked out the HF lift stand and felt it dropped the bike very fast, it could catch you by surprise and fall, not to mention ripping your shin off when the handle releases. I found the HC2 lift from DRC Hardware to be a much better deal since it has a damper attached to allow the bike to drop slowly. I posted pics back on page 2312, post #34670 (that was like forever ago in this thread ). I've used it many times and really like it, very easy to lift and drops slowly and predictably, cost just slightly more than the HF brand.

http://www.drcproducts.com/trans/d36-38-311/index.html

Doug
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:31 AM   #36847
coresports
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyJoe View Post
It must be nice to be single.
it is, although the gf really doesn't mind me indulging in a couple of my favorite activities.
i don;t live like this but i do try and still have fun at 50+

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Old 07-27-2013, 09:41 AM   #36848
japako
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Originally Posted by coresports View Post
it is, although the gf really doesn't mind me indulging in a couple of my favorite activities.
i don;t live like this but i do try and still have fun at 50+

Wow, that brings back some memories. All good...
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:54 AM   #36849
Rainshadow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simmons1 View Post
Mine has done the same thing as long as I have owned it. Since it only does it once at start up why worry about it?
I should have been more clear. The cycle repeats itself; idles great for 20-30 seconds, hiccups a time or three, runs great, coughs, lather rinse repeat. It doesn't matter if it's warmed up, just started, or in the middle of a long hot ride. It may be nothing, but I'm kind of OCD about how my engines run. I'm sure it wasn't designed to misfire a couple of times a minute.
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:01 AM   #36850
Rainshadow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogus Jim View Post
Have you tried playing with the mixture in diagnostic mode, just to see if it makes any difference? Also maybe check throttle body for air leaks, such as loose or cracked boot between intake/throttle body.
I haven't yet but will give it a try today. I noticed that the air filter was really filthy (the PO told me he'd just cleaned it) so maybe it's creating a restricted flow that has to break free (the hiccup). I'd bought a new No Toil filter when I got the bike home, but it turned out to be for an F instead of an R. The shop had to order a filter for the R so I'll have it Monday.
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:39 PM   #36851
2whl-hoop
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A couple of farkles

I had a few packages waiting for me when I got home last night. First up, because I'm hopelessly vain, was a Yoshimura fender eliminator. This was literally a plug and play installation. One of the reasons I went with this one was the ability to use the factory turn signals, but I was expecting to be cutting, stripping, and soldering the factory taillight plug onto the Yosh piece, but it came with a factory plug . No cutting wires, and it's totally reversible if I for some reason wanted to return it to stock.







I also added the Flatland Racing radiator guard. The hardest part of this was removing the factory plastic shroud from the radiator. Per the earlier discussions about this guard, I used zip ties to fasten the plastic shrouds to the radiator. I may eventually try to make a couple pieces of blocking bar, but this will work for now. One of the things I liked about the Safari tank, when I had it, was that it protected the radiator from side impacts, but it's hard to justify the $$$ when I already have the IMS 3 gallon on this bike.



Next up, I've got a pair of Supersprox and a 112 link chain. I will use 14-47 gearing on the MT-90s and 13-48 gearing with D606s. With the D606s on the bike, I think I will be ready for a trip to the CO San Juans at the end of August.
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:21 PM   #36852
Ronin ADV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manfromthestix View Post
I went through this scenario when I bought my WR as well. When I was a kid I could lift my motocrossers onto a static stand without issue, but I ruptured a disc in my back last year and doing stuff like that is OUT of the question forever more. So, I checked out the HF lift stand and felt it dropped the bike very fast, it could catch you by surprise and fall, not to mention ripping your shin off when the handle releases. I found the HC2 lift from DRC Hardware to be a much better deal since it has a damper attached to allow the bike to drop slowly. I posted pics back on page 2312, post #34670 (that was like forever ago in this thread ). I've used it many times and really like it, very easy to lift and drops slowly and predictably, cost just slightly more than the HF brand.

http://www.drcproducts.com/trans/d36-38-311/index.html

Doug
I'll second the DRC suggestion. I've been using one for years and it's a great stand. Easy to adjust, smooth action.
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:40 PM   #36853
scottmac
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There is also the Force radiator guard made in Australia.

http://www.forceaccessories.com.au/s...d&productId=58

The best one out in my opinion as it comes with a support bracket
to minimize flexing.

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Old 07-28-2013, 09:06 AM   #36854
ysrebob
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noise insulation for Flatland skid plate

As others have mentioned, the Flatland skid plate gives great protection but an annoying side effect is that a LOT of harsh bottom-end engine noise gets reflects upwards to your ears by the plate... kind of ruins a sweet-sounding motor to me. Ran across a solution that seems to be working pretty well.

I found this blue rubber matting at Lowes... its meant to be a truck-bed tool box liner, sold by the roll. Can't remember the price but it was not expensive. Matching blue color is just a coincidence.



Trimmed to fit, stuck on with spray adhesive, bolt the plate back up...



This has REALLY helped with the noise and the material seems to be doing OK with the engine heat.
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:23 AM   #36855
japako
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ysrebob View Post
As others have mentioned, the Flatland skid plate gives great protection but an annoying side effect is that a LOT of harsh bottom-end engine noise gets reflects upwards to your ears by the plate... kind of ruins a sweet-sounding motor to me. Ran across a solution that seems to be working pretty well.

I found this blue rubber matting at Lowes... its meant to be a truck-bed tool box liner, sold by the roll. Can't remember the price but it was not expensive. Matching blue color is just a coincidence.



Trimmed to fit, stuck on with spray adhesive, bolt the plate back up...



This has REALLY helped with the noise and the material seems to be doing OK with the engine heat.
Great idea, and it looks good... I'm using pieces of tube now, but will do this instead.
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