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Old 08-23-2013, 08:53 PM   #37441
sixspeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bash3r View Post
This report says they stall unexpectedly.. has that happen on WRs where you are riding and it just stalls? I know the two WRs I've seen this happen to it ran fine once it was running but just wouldn't start to pump when it was hot. We'd wait, then it'd fire up and could ride as long as you wanted, but better not kill the bike! Or after the bike was off... the pump would just never come back on.. I'd hate to have it just stall in the middle of traffic!
Yes.

I was riding my '10 and the last 2 times it just stalled when it got hot. Stopped riding it for this reason... and the fact it let me sit before that and wouldn't start for almost 3 hours of trying.

The last was the last straw, it puked 2 miles from home and I had to push it. Hooboy I never thought a 300# bike was so heavy.

Replaced the pump and all is golden. But I kept my old one in the event Yamaha ever makes good for their design flaw.
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:31 PM   #37442
beee
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I have a wr250x. I just bought warp9 18/21 dirt wheels for it with the large x rotor for an easy swap.

The warp9 front wheel will not accept a stock wrx rotor, how can I get another rotor? Do I have to buy from warp9?

Sorry if this has been asked before, I searched and couldn't find anything.
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:58 AM   #37443
kawagumby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beee View Post
I have a wr250x. I just bought warp9 18/21 dirt wheels for it with the large x rotor for an easy swap.

The warp9 front wheel will not accept a stock wrx rotor, how can I get another rotor? Do I have to buy from warp9?

Sorry if this has been asked before, I searched and couldn't find anything.
The warp wheels are replacements for the std YZ/WRF wheels, no? If so, you'll need a yz compatible rotor. You may need to cut new spacers too, I needed to when I went to a YZ wheel on my WRZ.
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Old 08-24-2013, 09:12 AM   #37444
coresports
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the stock exhaust without the exup would not run very well, imo. this valve has nothing to do with emissions (unlike the ais)


The valve goes from being almost fully closed at idle speed, through to fully open at higher engine speeds.
This ensures superior low to mid-range performance & more linear power output.





Quote:
Originally Posted by RockinTheRVA View Post
I am considering switching my exhaust back to stock and removing the FMF Programmer. My bike has the airbox flapper, exup, and AIS mods done to it.

Will the bike run well with these mods, yet no programmer or exhaust?
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Old 08-24-2013, 09:57 AM   #37445
duanew1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coresports View Post
The valve goes from being almost fully closed at idle speed, through to fully open at higher engine speeds.
This ensures superior low to mid-range performance & more linear power output.
Supposedly! Video evidence suggests otherwise.
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:03 AM   #37446
jgino157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beee View Post
I have a wr250x. I just bought warp9 18/21 dirt wheels for it with the large x rotor for an easy swap.

The warp9 front wheel will not accept a stock wrx rotor, how can I get another rotor? Do I have to buy from warp9?

Sorry if this has been asked before, I searched and couldn't find anything.
Call Warp9. They were very helpful when I had questions about mine. Of course I forgot the answers , but I did ask them about the rotor and wheel bearings.
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Old 08-24-2013, 11:58 AM   #37447
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
Speaking as someone who came from a DRZ 400 to the WR250R...its not where near as grunty...BUT...but where as you keep the revs low and use the torque of the DRZ, you rev high and use the top end of the rev range on the WRR. Once you get used to it...you never look back.
That was not my experience with the 400E when I sampled it some years ago: it not only had tons of power at the top, but a lot of duration too. At that time I was riding a Husaberg 400, and the DRZ definitely had the more rev-happy motor.

You could certainly use the torque of the DRZ instead of its power in almost all situations, and most of the time that was the only way to ride it since the inadequate suspension (and the weight) put a damper on any high speed adventures -- the same ailments that afflict the WRR (but without the power).
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Old 08-24-2013, 12:33 PM   #37448
GSBS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluePill View Post
To each their own, of course. Center-to-center, the wrench is 4.5 inches. That means you need to put a weight of 240 pounds on it to get the required 90 Ft-Lb torque. If you weigh 175, you can only apply 66 Ft-Lb. IMO, it's not a nut you want to lose in the woods.


I've changed flats several times on the trail with no issues whatsoever using the supplied tool kit. Just give that sucker a kick and it comes right off (and I do torque the nut to the specified 90 foot pounds whenever I take if off at home).
I did change out the pinch bolts on the forks, which have 10mm heads, with some hex-head bolts after the tool kit's 10mm wrench bowed when I tried to loosen them. Luckily on that occasion a buddy had some vice grips to loosen the pinch bolts.
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Old 08-24-2013, 12:55 PM   #37449
kawagumby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
That was not my experience with the 400E when I sampled it some years ago: it not only had tons of power at the top, but a lot of duration too. At that time I was riding a Husaberg 400, and the DRZ definitely had the more rev-happy motor.
The DRZ E and S are different animals though. I had an S and with the CV carb and lower compression etc. it wasn't much of a power house.
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:19 PM   #37450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawagumby View Post
The DRZ E and S are different animals though. I had an S and with the CV carb and lower compression etc. it wasn't much of a power house.
I agree. I have ridden a DRZ400S and it wasn't nearly the torque monster some make it out to be. Considering the displacement delta, I think the WR's torque to be adequate and a reasonble trade off since top end power on both is nearly the same. Basically, we're getting a lot more bang from each of our 250cc than the DRZ's 400.
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:40 PM   #37451
Andysrage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coresports View Post
the stock exhaust without the exup would not run very well, imo. this valve has nothing to do with emissions (unlike the ais)


The valve goes from being almost fully closed at idle speed, through to fully open at higher engine speeds.
This ensures superior low to mid-range performance & more linear power output.
I don't think the engine will actually run poorly without the exup but, to your point, with a bike so short on torque relative to its capabilities, why sacrifise the little torque on hand to gain a fraction of a HP that the engine already makes in spades? This is why I built myself a custom FMF Q4 slipon while maintaining the EXUP. http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t4...f-q4-with-exup It doesn't feel like I have lost any torque. Actually, after climbing the rocky hills of Hancock Quarry Run a few weeks back, I think the bottom end is better than ever.

I think the bigger issue is running a stock cat-equipped muffler without recionnecting the AIS will result in a clogged cat in the long term. the AIS is there to provide the cat with the extra oxygen it needs to properly burn off the residual carbon emissions. Without this extra air, these emissions will slowly build up and long-term foul the cat, sapping performance.
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:43 PM   #37452
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LH mirror base

Where can I get the LH mirror base 10mm x 1.25? I don't want to buy the whole assembly since I am putting on Doubletake Mirrors. My RH reverse thread adapter base is fine.

I feel like this are pretty universal yet I can't seem to find one easily
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Old 08-24-2013, 02:22 PM   #37453
cjbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
Where can I get the LH mirror base 10mm x 1.25? I don't want to buy the whole assembly since I am putting on Doubletake Mirrors. My RH reverse thread adapter base is fine.

I feel like this are pretty universal yet I can't seem to find one easily
A standard RAM ball will thread right into the clutch perch, no adapter needed.
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Old 08-24-2013, 02:26 PM   #37454
ba_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbiker View Post
A standard RAM ball will thread right into the clutch perch, no adapter needed.
I wanted to height to match hence the base on the LH size...
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:14 PM   #37455
japako
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
I wanted to height to match hence the base on the LH size...
You can buy the adapter from your dealer, or search Google.
I just use the left mirror, you really don't need two, unless you ride on the road more than dirt.??
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