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Old 08-25-2013, 09:49 AM   #37471
woofer2609
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Location: Extreme Pacific SouthWest (of Canada)
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OK, putting this to rest. I changed my rear tire and put on the rear axle nut with the tool kit wrench. Using a hard boot and holding onto my TCI rack while putting as much muscle into the nut as possible, I then got my torque wrench
(Yes, it's calibrated) and it was at 80ft/lbs. I weigh app. 160 lbs. So, agreed, it works as a trail side fix, and the nut will probably stay on there, but because of my slightly paranoid self I did a little mod while the axle was off.
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:36 AM   #37472
ba_
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skid plate noise

To whoever recommended getting 1/8" nylon washers to put between the plate and the mounting points,

Best $0.40 I've ever spent
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:52 AM   #37473
DaymienRules
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Having the wrr and a 400sm in the garage right now, I'm a little jealous of the drz's additional power. The torque at about 1/3 throttle means you can roll on accelerate when the wrr requires a downshift.

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Old 08-25-2013, 11:16 AM   #37474
bracky72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
To whoever recommended getting 1/8" nylon washers to put between the plate and the mounting points,

Best $0.40 I've ever spent

I use garden hose washers/gaskets in between my skid plate and the frame. They work great at dampening vibration. I will try nylon washers.
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Old 08-25-2013, 11:32 AM   #37475
Revvy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
To whoever recommended getting 1/8" nylon washers to put between the plate and the mounting points,

Best $0.40 I've ever spent
I was getting contact between the plate and the frame, after installing the washers, at a specific rpm level. I ended up putting two more washers on the very end of the plate. The plate would vibrate just a little bit harder at this one spot while turning the throttle and cause a brief but loud vibration noise. Used a bit of super glue to put two nylon washers between the plate and frame. Thing is as quiet as stock now.
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Old 08-25-2013, 11:51 AM   #37476
crunchiespg
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Originally Posted by Revvy View Post
I used the Eastern Beaver harness. I have heated grips, USB, and the GPS on a switched harness. Very clean looking, I like it a lot. I took the switched power from brake light. Search this thread and you'll find pics of the install done by others.
Cheers. Looks like the pc8 is a good piece of kit.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wi...PC-8/pc-8.html

What length relay harness would work well with this bike?

The 3 circuit would work for now. But having the open options could be nice later. I'm sure there's space to fit the pc8 somewhere.

crunchiespg screwed with this post 08-25-2013 at 01:37 PM
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:39 PM   #37477
tmotten
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Mate, I wouldn't get the 8 circuit one. If you leave all the stock gear on it (EXUP, etc) there is hardly any room. I've just installed the 3 circuit one with relay kit for my GPS, phone, LED's, battery tender (not switched and separately fused), heated grips, USB connector all up front and an SAE connector under the seat.

To fit the relay I had to drill a hole in plastics (rear fender) right below the OEM relays and relocate (shove) the flasher relay out of the way to fit the fuse box. The supplied harness is long enough.

Haven't got any pics and won't be able to get any for a while because of my broken arm sorry. The currents are so low I just coupled a few devices to a single fuse.

I found good ground from the cable guides/ instrument bracket up front which have a steel wire loop perfect for putting a bolt through for ring terminals. The positive wires run beautifully along the throttle cable.

For switched power I used the OEM connector for the license plate light which I don't use because I took the OEM gear off. I hope Alberta inspection won't pick that up.
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Old 08-25-2013, 05:20 PM   #37478
crunchiespg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten View Post
Mate, I wouldn't get the 8 circuit one. If you leave all the stock gear on it (EXUP, etc) there is hardly any room. I've just installed the 3 circuit one with relay kit for my GPS, phone, LED's, battery tender (not switched and separately fused), heated grips, USB connector all up front and an SAE connector under the seat.

To fit the relay I had to drill a hole in plastics (rear fender) right below the OEM relays and relocate (shove) the flasher relay out of the way to fit the fuse box. The supplied harness is long enough.

Haven't got any pics and won't be able to get any for a while because of my broken arm sorry. The currents are so low I just coupled a few devices to a single fuse.

I found good ground from the cable guides/ instrument bracket up front which have a steel wire loop perfect for putting a bolt through for ring terminals. The positive wires run beautifully along the throttle cable.

For switched power I used the OEM connector for the license plate light which I don't use because I took the OEM gear off. I hope Alberta inspection won't pick that up.
alright, 3 circuit sealed one ordered..
im thinking ill leave all the 3CS under the seat, and just run the wiring from a 12v socket and the gps back to that. just need to find a decent 12v cigar socket and a way to mount it. the one thing ill miss from the ktm is the little glove box on top of the tank.. guess ill have to buy a new tank bag...

so you only ran the positive back to the 3CS using only on half of each connecter and just grounded it separately?

and, i didnt think you were getting an inspection done here?
even if they did they wont care as long as your aftermarket one has a running light and brake light which light up the plate.
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Old 08-25-2013, 05:29 PM   #37479
burtonrider3889
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Speaking of electrical hookups the PO put an AV plug on my WR, but I think he wired it to the headlight or ignition and not the actual battery as it turns on and off with the key. Someone told me this is not good for the WR as the fuses blow easily? Is this true? I had a fuse blow, and I don't know wether I should replace it or get a different wiring set. What would you guys recommend for someone that just needs AV power for a GPS and maybe a USB plug attached for phone charging at the same time. I know nothing about these things.
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Old 08-25-2013, 05:30 PM   #37480
burtonrider3889
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Also, ride from yesterday. Jeep Trail here in VA. Camera ran out of space as I dropped the bike. Some idiot decided to park his truck in the road and leave. Left for an awkward place to have to go around. Trail is much steeper and rockier than video really shows.


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Old 08-25-2013, 06:15 PM   #37481
NeilW
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That looked like a fairly rough ride. Your rear view mirror was getting ready to call it quits. Good riding buddy to wait up for you at all the right spots. It always frustrates me to be having a good ride, working out near limits of my skill level, then from nearly a stop, fall over. I like to gently refer to those as "tip-overs". Yeah, lot's of those
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:39 PM   #37482
crunchiespg
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Another electrical question. When changing to the edge tail light I'm going to also grab the plug and play connecters so I don't have to chop any stock wiring. But is some sort of resistor needed when using the drc 602 signal lights as they are led?
Also here's my planned list of mods for my new bike. Some sort of bash plate, radiator guard, edge tail light, 602 signal lights, eastern beaver fuse block for 12v socket and gps and heated grips. Some fat renthal bars and some fat bar bar clamps. Double take mirrors (should I get short or long ram arms??)
Some hand guards.
And some sort of rear rack.

Anything else obvious I need?
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:15 PM   #37483
woofer2609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchiespg View Post
Another electrical question. When changing to the edge tail light I'm going to also grab the plug and play connecters so I don't have to chop any stock wiring. But is some sort of resistor needed when using the drc 602 signal lights as they are led? No, your signals will flash much faster, but I see this as more noticeable, and an added bonus
Also here's my planned list of mods for my new bike. Some sort of bash plate, radiator guard, edge tail light, 602 signal lights, eastern beaver fuse block for 12v socket and gps and heated grips. Some fat renthal bars and some fat bar bar clamps. Double take mirrors (should I get short or long ram arms??)
Some hand guards.
And some sort of rear rack.

Anything else obvious I need?
Can't think of anything unless you feel the stock tank is too small
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:19 PM   #37484
burtonrider3889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilW View Post
That looked like a fairly rough ride. Your rear view mirror was getting ready to call it quits. Good riding buddy to wait up for you at all the right spots. It always frustrates me to be having a good ride, working out near limits of my skill level, then from nearly a stop, fall over. I like to gently refer to those as "tip-overs". Yeah, lot's of those
Yea, it was real rough. My mirror was shaking loose all day. The later videos that he took show just how rocky that trail is. He's got them posted in another thread. He was good to ride with. We had another guy with us who was slower than me so we all made sure we were accounted for regularly. And yea, it was a steep incline I stopped on to try and turn and go around that truck. Just had no footing once I turned on the trail. You can see it bent my clutch real good. Luckily we bent it back with a rock. I need hand guards ASAP.
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:56 PM   #37485
satchmo3
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Crunchies-

The l.e.d. blinkers will blink faster, you can buy a resistor that will slow them to original speed at www.soloracer.com . It's an easy install.
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