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Old 10-05-2009, 02:44 PM   #7591
mtntrails
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MoBill - thanks for the thumbs up on my WRR touring rig. I'm really happy with the results and looking forward to more epic rides out west.

Renthal FatBars are excellent - they will take a serious beating. They offer lots of different bends. Their website is very helpful in terms of figuring out which bend to choose. http://www.renthal.com/File/product2.asp
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Old 10-05-2009, 04:49 PM   #7592
bash3r
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this would make a very good tool tube for the R! 12" long x 3 1/4" dia. Mount it right up! I've seen it on a DRZ (see here) and it looks nice, great for some added tools to keep with you at all times.

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Old 10-05-2009, 05:26 PM   #7593
Gargoyle
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Location: upstate NY, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brothermosley
hey folks,

anybody using their wrr to ride dual-sports and/or turkey runs? how's it working out? i know the wrr's not an enduro...but does it come close?

thanks in advance!

jamie
I have run AMA 2 day national dual sports and NETRA turkey runs for 2 years now on my WRR. Orange is always the dominant color at these New England events. And I am sure the NETRA enduro champ won't be riding a WRR. But, it's a solid bike and can certainly handle non-competitive events very well. The only issue I have faced is my riding ability and stamina. The WRR has been rock solid and handled all terrain the clubs could throw at it.

Here is a shot from this year's Quarry Run. I am not the only one riding a WRR at these events.

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Old 10-05-2009, 05:42 PM   #7594
HighFive
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtntrails
Ready for Touring Duty... She ships out to her new home in Las Vegas tomorrow.
Hey MtnTrails....WoW....what a rig! That's a really fine setup. Looks like you spent some serious time on these mods. Some ground-breaking stuff too.

The one thing I wonder about....is how it will perform all loaded when running the slab into a headwind. You're going to experience a good bit of extra drag with the shield and the big side boxes. Seems I read you were still running the stock 13/43 gearing.....is that right? Or did I misunderstand?

Either way, I think you're definitely going to need 12/43 or 13/46 gearing to be able to use 6th gear much. That would pull your load better, faster, & farther. I'm just speculating based upon my experience with the bike. You'll probably end up running in 5th gear (stock) with any headwind or hills to speak of. Just be careful not to bog her down in 6th on long stretches. Keep the motor in a good "pulling" range, or you might see some engine lights flashing.

So, I'm very interested to hear about your results with this load and wind resistance level. Put her through the paces and let us know how she performs this way. Most of us try to keep this 250cc as streamlined as possible for maximum performance and fuel mileage.



HF
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Old 10-05-2009, 06:01 PM   #7595
brothermosley
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thanks

i knew i'd get some good feedback. sounds like the bike would do just fine for me. thanks again.
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Old 10-05-2009, 06:14 PM   #7596
bpg
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Location: Charlotte, NC (summer back home in western PA)
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Windshield and number plate bag

Wanted to post up 2 mods I've done with the WRR.

The first is the number plate bag from dirt-bike.gear.com:
http://www.dirt-bike-gear.com/number_plate_bags.html

This is a very well made (in the USA!) bag. Ballistic nylon, 3-year warranty, etc. It's almost 12" wide, and 5 1/2" high, 4" deep.

here's their pic showing how it works:


Off the bike, showing all 6 (!!!) straps.


On the bike. This sucker is on rock solid.




I've had this bag for several months of abuse. It's fairly water resistant, super tough, and is very well though out. The only annoying thing is that the center compression strap is kinda fussy to loosen and tighten every time you need to unzip the bag to access contents. A 1" side squeeze buckle (REI, craft store - about 50 cents!) fixed that in short order.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Po' man's windshield:

- One plastic face shield ($3 - Harbor Freight)
- 2 strips (hoop strip and hook strip) of 2" velcro, about 8-9" long
- scissors

You can figure it out from there...















Tested up to 85 mph (GPS speed): no flutter at all as it rests against the brake hose pretty well.

It really takes the blast off the chest, and sends a pretty clean
stream of air past the helmet (I'm 5'10", long-ish torso). The face
shield plastic is great stuff and very flexible - you can practically
bend it in half without it snapping. Not bad for $3!

Already one of my favorite mods that will stay on the bike 24/7...
It's tough/flexible (and cheap) enough and of such a low profile that I
have no worries about dragging it through a rutted deer path or rocky
singletrack hill climb - and it'll be right there waiting for a blast
up the 4-lane.
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Old 10-05-2009, 06:47 PM   #7597
bpg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bash3r
this would make a very good tool tube for the R! 12" long x 3 1/4" dia. Mount it right up! I've seen it on a DRZ (see here) and it looks nice, great for some added tools to keep with you at all times.

A riding bud has 2 of those on his LC4. They're nice, but I ended up going w/ 4" PVC because that extra 3/4" diameter is surprisingly much roomier. My Wolfman tool roll slides right in, while there's no way it would fit in the tractor tube. That said, either option is way roomier and more useful than the stock tool (match)box...






I agree 100% on the "tools you keep with you all the time" - I'd rather keep them low, accessible, and off the rear seat/rack...
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Old 10-05-2009, 06:53 PM   #7598
CopaMundial
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Regarding the MoBill's HotGrips.
I would try to re-use them. Throttle side, not problem obviously just take your whole throttle tube with the grip in place.
For the left side you should be able to do as you suggested. I have never had to do it, but the directions indicate that you can remove them by wrapping them in some sort of insulating material and then leaving them on high heat (to intentionally overheat the 2-part epoxy that you used to install them).
You will need some more epoxy to stick them on, so you can get the stuff they sell directly or they also give some recommendations for generic types that you might be able to find locally. The benefit of using their epoxy is that the temperature range is high enough to keep them secure, but low enough that you can overheat them (with insulation) to break the bond to remove them.

You should also be able to re-use your handguards too, although you may need to buy some new inserts for the bar-ends. That's like 15 bucks for the inserts, so you could try to see if you can re-use the inserts first.

Also, as mentioned, regardless if you have 7/8th in bars or 1 1/8th in bars, they are all 7/8ths out at the ends where your grips and controls go. The "fat" bars are just thicker in from the middle (at the clamps) out to about mid-way through the bend portion. Supposed to make them stronger, they don't need a cross-bar, supposed to vibrate less, cure cancer and protect against alien abduction... all good stuff that allows them to charge more for them. In reality, however, pretty much any aftermarket bar that you get (regardless of size) is going to resist bending better than the stock bars. I've got the fatter bars (pro-taper EVO) on my bike now, my son has the exact same bend in 7/8th bars (Pro-Taper SE) on his DR650, there's not a ton of difference between the two except for the fact that he has a cross-bar which gives him a handy spot to mount roll-chart and other doo-dads.

CopaMundial screwed with this post 10-05-2009 at 06:59 PM
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:31 PM   #7599
scottmac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpg
Wanted to post up 2 mods I've done with the WRR.

The first is the number plate bag from dirt-bike.gear.com:
http://www.dirt-bike-gear.com/number_plate_bags.html

This is a very well made (in the USA!) bag. Ballistic nylon, 3-year warranty, etc. It's almost 12" wide, and 5 1/2" high, 4" deep.

here's their pic showing how it works:


Off the bike, showing all 6 (!!!) straps.


On the bike. This sucker is on rock solid.




I've had this bag for several months of abuse. It's fairly water resistant, super tough, and is very well though out. The only annoying thing is that the center compression strap is kinda fussy to loosen and tighten every time you need to unzip the bag to access contents. A 1" side squeeze buckle (REI, craft store - about 50 cents!) fixed that in short order.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
+1 on the number plate bag. I've been using a DirtBagz one on mine
for the past year. It carries my tools and patch kit and pump
plus my camera and it stays put solidly riding through the ruff stuff.

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Old 10-05-2009, 07:50 PM   #7600
lukachuki
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpg
--------------------------------------------------
Po' man's windshield:

- One plastic face shield ($3 - Harbor Freight)
- 2 strips (hoop strip and hook strip) of 2" velcro, about 8-9" long
- scissors

You can figure it out from there...
+1 for ingenuity...gotta love it.
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Old 10-05-2009, 08:06 PM   #7601
bpg
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Location: Charlotte, NC (summer back home in western PA)
Oddometer: 563
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukachuki
+1 for ingenuity...gotta love it.
Funny thing is, that $3 face shield is significantly more durable and flexible than any bike-specific windshield I've ever seen!
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Old 10-05-2009, 08:24 PM   #7602
cyborg
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Location: Pacific NorthWet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtntrails
Ready for Touring Duty... She ships out to her new home in Las Vegas tomorrow.
mtntrails, very nice setup! I recently did a big Nevada ride, an attemt by a group of us to ride the original Pony Express trail offroad for 500 miles or so. Turned out to be pretty brutal since we were on BigPig bikes 640 and up, riding rocks and sand and cow trails. One caution, those of us in the ride who had solid panniers, either Happy Trails or other metal brands (like me and a few others), or BMW or Givi plastic types, got knocked off our bikes quite a few times while riding slippery silty/sandy single or 2-track with heavy sagebrush overhanging the track and growing in between the tracks (which Nevada has LOTS of). The sagebrush or rocks would catch on the hard panniers and throw the bike off track and you go flying, no matter how hotshot a rider you may be. One guy broke his ankle in 3 places after sagebrush tossed him. The soft-bag guys didn't have this problem and suffered less. Most of the riders were 30+ years offroad veterans and most went flying many times. Good armor pays for itself on these kind of trips.

A SPOT device is good to have on the more remote Nevada areas too since there is often no cell coverage.

Yes I wish I had been on the WRR on this trip, but I had to ride 760 miles from Seattle to Carson City, NV in a hurry to get to and from the ride. I don't do trailers if I can help it. If I had had more time, the WRR could have done the whole 2300 mile ride, and if I ever try that ride again, the WRR with SOFT BAGS would be a great way to go for sure!

Have fun on your trip!
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:00 PM   #7603
Chadx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tremor38
You won't regret the heated grips. They're one of my favorite mods. BIG "bang-for-the-buck."
Heated grips are a great mod and I've had them on other bikes. This time, I first spent the money on heated gloves since they can go with me from bike to bike. It would be harder to decide between gloves and grip heat if you only have one bike. I'd argue that the back of one's hand (gloves heat only the back of your hand and fingers) gets colder than the palm, even with handguards, so another reason I went with the gloves. In the end, I'll end up with heated grips, too. Then I'll be good to go in really cold weather or when I'm wearing a different pair of gloves and could use a bit of heat. Grips you always have with. Heated gloves, not necessarily so. Just a few other aspects to think about.
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:49 AM   #7604
tremor38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadx
Heated grips are a great mod and I've had them on other bikes. This time, I first spent the money on heated gloves since they can go with me from bike to bike. It would be harder to decide between gloves and grip heat if you only have one bike. I'd argue that the back of one's hand (gloves heat only the back of your hand and fingers) gets colder than the palm, even with handguards, so another reason I went with the gloves. In the end, I'll end up with heated grips, too. Then I'll be good to go in really cold weather or when I'm wearing a different pair of gloves and could use a bit of heat. Grips you always have with. Heated gloves, not necessarily so. Just a few other aspects to think about.
All good points. In a perfect world, you'd have both heated grips and gloves, but I definitely understand the multiple bike scenario. What I do know is that there have been many rides that I've went into thinking I wouldn't need cold weather gloves, but things changed quickly and the grip heat was the difference between mild discomfort and misery.

I have a KLX250S right now, so I think a low current draw heated vest and grips OR gloves would be pushing it already. Faced with the choice between heated grips or gloves on that bike (my only bike), I'll definitly go with the grips. With the WR's charging system, you could difinitely indulge further. If all goes well, a new WR will be displacing my KLX from the stable next year.

On the subject of gloves, what brand did you go with? I've seen good reviews of the EXO2, Widder and first gear glove..and of course all of the BMW owners with their sworn and somtimes blind allegiance to Arrowstich and Gerbing. I've also seen bad reviews of brands like the Tourmaster Synergys gloves, although their heated vests and jacket liners get rave reviews.

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Old 10-06-2009, 04:10 AM   #7605
mtntrails
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive
Hey MtnTrails....WoW....what a rig! That's a really fine setup. Looks like you spent some serious time on these mods. Some ground-breaking stuff too.

The one thing I wonder about....is how it will perform all loaded when running the slab into a headwind. You're going to experience a good bit of extra drag with the shield and the big side boxes. Seems I read you were still running the stock 13/43 gearing.....is that right? Or did I misunderstand?

Either way, I think you're definitely going to need 12/43 or 13/46 gearing to be able to use 6th gear much. That would pull your load better, faster, & farther. I'm just speculating based upon my experience with the bike. You'll probably end up running in 5th gear (stock) with any headwind or hills to speak of. Just be careful not to bog her down in 6th on long stretches. Keep the motor in a good "pulling" range, or you might see some engine lights flashing.

So, I'm very interested to hear about your results with this load and wind resistance level. Put her through the paces and let us know how she performs this way. Most of us try to keep this 250cc as streamlined as possible for maximum performance and fuel mileage.



HF

Thanks HF - I really appreciate your insight and all of the contributions you have made to this thread.

To give you some background and perspective on where I am coming from on this bike... I am a long time "GS" rider as well as a woods / trail rider. Like so many of us on this site, I am wanting a lightweight "in-betweener" for traveling & dual-sporting. Three years ago, I built up a DRZ-S that was set up nearly identical to this WRR. I rode it cross-country, kept it in a storage unit in Las Vegas and did several long rides on it over a period of a year. Between the high altitude jetting issues and the lack of a 6th gear, I decided to sell the DRZ and swap it out with a 950 Adventure that I already owned. The 950 was an excellent touring bike and amazingly capable off-road, but I found myself avoiding some off-road opportunities that I would not have hesitated taking on the DRZ. Keep in mind, I am often traveling solo out west, so I need to be "thoughtful" with off-road excursions. Anyway, over this past winter with the downturn in the economy, I decided to sell the 950 and give up the Las Vegas storage unit. I have regretted that decision ever since. So, the WRR became my summer project.

The WRR has just over 400 miles since all of the mods. I have not ridden it w/ a full touring load yet. So far, it seems to pull a long uphill freeway grade (~6% grade) pretty well @ 70-75 mph (gps) without downshifting to 5th gear. If I drop much below that speed at that grade, I do have to downshift. For perspective, I am 6'2", 275 lbs. (all muscle ).

So far, I am pretty happy with the stock gearing for the street since doing the FMF/Airbox mods. I am riding the LA-Barstow-Vegas Dual-Sport in November. That ride will determine any gearing changes.

The windscreen is way more aerodynamic than I am. It actually improves the airflow. It is shown in the highest position - the windblast is hitting me ~1/3 of the way up the helmet at that position. With 2 more inches it would clear my helmet for a totally clean pocket. I have the same setup on my 690SMC with the windscreen set a little lower so that the windblast hits me just above the shoulders - that is preferable and quieter. These windscreens are super easy to adjust - both height & pitch. For off-roading, it pops on & off in seconds, or just set it to the lowest position. It really makes a huge difference on the street. They are ~$85 - excellent bang for the buck.

mtntrails screwed with this post 10-06-2009 at 04:57 AM
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