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Old 04-14-2008, 09:17 AM   #16
crazydrummerdude
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thread hijack

Help clear my confusion..

In his article, Matt Parkhouse says in his article that he will now do this measurement to any '77 or later airhead. Then he says that every '77-on owner should do this same measurement.

Also, most of you guys, and the article, talk about oil coolers.

So, are my bikes ('74 /6's, no oil coolers) not part of the class of bikes capable of having the $2000 o-ring problem? If not, why not? If so, why does Matt Parkhouse specifically mention '77-on bikes?
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Old 04-14-2008, 09:26 AM   #17
AntonLargiader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude
So, are my bikes ('74 /6's, no oil coolers) not part of the class of bikes capable of having the $2000 o-ring problem? If not, why not?
You don't have one. Go to the "Oil filters" web page (the parent page of the one I listed above) and it describes the difference.
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Old 04-14-2008, 09:30 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntonLargiader
You don't have one. Go to the "Oil filters" web page (the parent page of the one I listed above) and it describes the difference.
http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/

That's what I was thinking. Just making sure I wasn't missing something big.

Thanks.
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:41 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntonLargiader
You feelin' lucky today, punk?


EDIT: OK, here's how.

1) remove canister
2) insert appropriately sized shim
3) install canister.
Are you still sore about me owing you a sixer of IPA for over a year now?

So, either it's really easy and I just pull the damn thing out, or there's a whole lot to it involving special tools and heat shrinking, etc. Guess i'll take a look at it tonight and see what I can screw up.
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Old 04-14-2008, 11:08 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by datchew
Guess i'll take a look at it tonight and see what I can screw up.
You still have my shipping address, right?
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Old 04-14-2008, 11:19 AM   #21
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You still have my shipping address, right?
Ouch.
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Old 04-14-2008, 09:06 PM   #22
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JT , there are two types of canister ,the old version with straight sides , and the later version with a lip on the top. With the old type you must use at least one shim , for the reason you state. Seems to seal ok.

The later lipped canister shouldnt need a shim, but some have started to move around a bit, and need remediation. Hard to see how a shim that seals against the plain edge will seal worse against the lip, but fluid dynamics are not my strong suit, and if someone has tested it and found it to be so I am not in a position to dispute it.
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Old 04-14-2008, 09:10 PM   #23
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I pulled the cover again and this time measured the cannister correctly instead of the filter. (One of these days I'll get all this stuff straight.)

4.3 mm.



So, I put the 3 shims BACK in there and buttoned it up.
Had a moment's neurosis thinking that I ran it for a day with 3 and in doing so pushed the cannister, but, the o-rings at past filter changes have looked like new (unsquashed) so I'm not too worried.

Lesson learned: Proper way to measure the cannister depth gap.

Lesson cost: just under 3 quarts of oil that had run for approximately 8 miles.
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Old 04-14-2008, 11:48 PM   #24
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Eek looked like new ... ?!

Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
the o-rings at past filter changes have looked like new (unsquashed) so I'm not too worried.

It's not that I want to feed your nightmares, but the white O-Ring should be slightly squashed after an oil change.

If said white O-Ring is "like new" (with a completely round cross-section), it was not compressed correctly, and it did probably not fulfill its task as it should have ...

Keep us updated. I don't want to see a blue crankshaft ... !
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Old 04-15-2008, 02:51 AM   #25
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He's probably OK. Should end up around about 3.3 without a cover gasket, which is plenty. 4.2 - (3*0.3)

No cover gasket, right Matt?

Edit: BTW, no need to drop the oil for checking this. Just put the bike over on the left cylinder.
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Old 04-15-2008, 03:03 AM   #26
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Hi,
Quote:
Originally Posted by AntonLargiader
BTW, no need to drop the oil for checking this. Just put the bike over on the left cylinder.
Sidestand is enough -- been there, done that

(I don't like the idea of putting my bike on the cylinder ... she still has a conventional, flooded, non-spill-proof battery ...)
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Old 04-15-2008, 03:13 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntonLargiader
BTW, no need to drop the oil for checking this. Just put the bike over on the left cylinder.
Yes, works every time:
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Old 04-15-2008, 03:52 AM   #28
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
Are you still sore about me owing you a sixer of IPA for over a year now?

So, either it's really easy and I just pull the damn thing out, or there's a whole lot to it involving special tools and heat shrinking, etc. Guess i'll take a look at it tonight and see what I can screw up.
I'll second this...

How do we pull the canister out?
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Old 04-15-2008, 07:00 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntonLargiader
He's probably OK. Should end up around about 3.3 without a cover gasket, which is plenty. 4.2 - (3*0.3)

No cover gasket, right Matt?
No gasket. To be completely anal retentive, yes, the white o-rings have "some" distortion, but not even close to the amount of deformation shown in Matt Parkhouse's picture.

Also, I've been seeing them like that for the last 30k miles so i'm not too worried.


Quote:
Originally Posted by AntonLargiader
Edit: BTW, no need to drop the oil for checking this. Just put the bike over on the left cylinder.
I've recently developed an aversion to putting my bike on it's side. Nuff said.

Also, I didn't mention this because you guys would think i'm more nuts than I already am... but... I put 3 kinds of 20w50 into the bike after the recent rebuild. They were a bunch of partially filled bottles I had around and I figured after sitting for almost 4 months, a "flush" would do it some good.
I don't know enough about oil to know if mixing is bad, but I was gonna use it to run for about 100 miles and then change it to all 1 type.

So oh well.





Ali Baba. Great pic man.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Slope'r
I'll second this...

How do we pull the canister out?
I looked at this last night and it doesn't look like a simple procedure. And 3 days to the spring fling with a 4 hour road trip on a newly rebuilt bike did not make me anxious to dive into it too aggressively. I'll just check the shim at every oil change and ride the damn thing.
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Old 04-15-2008, 03:56 PM   #30
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This may be the place to ask a question that I have regarding the oil pickup tube in an airhead. I have a non-oil cooler bike. I bought a thermostatically controlled oil cooler and the appropriate pick up tube to convert my bike. So, my question is, how the hell do I get the old pickup tube out? It's screwed in tighter than a virgin on prom night. Is there a special wrench (for the tube, not the virgin)?
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