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Old 04-15-2008, 05:10 PM   #31
Stagehand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhach
This may be the place to ask a question that I have regarding the oil pickup tube in an airhead. I have a non-oil cooler bike. I bought a thermostatically controlled oil cooler and the appropriate pick up tube to convert my bike. So, my question is, how the hell do I get the old pickup tube out? It's screwed in tighter than a virgin on prom night. Is there a special wrench (for the tube, not the virgin)?
Not that I know of. Just a big damn flat screwdriver. Its just threads.
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:22 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
Lesson cost: just under 3 quarts of oil that had run for approximately 8 miles.
Why didn't you just put it on the sidestandand pull the cover?
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Old 04-15-2008, 08:23 PM   #33
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I have a lipped cannister on my 92 GSPD and to complicate things a bit further, mine measures 4.3mm at 3 o'clock and 4.6mm at 9 o'clock. I use 4 shims with no cover gasket (of course). Based on computations (using the 4.3mm depth), I should get the o-ring squashed to 22.5%.

To provide some data which might prove useful to some, I installed an oil pressure gauge with a 0.5-bar switch for the idiot light for that extra margin of safety (vs the usual 0.2-bar BMW switch). These are the readings I got:

With 1 shim

40 psi with cold engine at idle speed
30 psi at operating temp, 4500 rpm
3 psi at operating temp, idle speed

With 4 shims

Over 80 psi with cold engine at idle speed (only have an 80 psi gauge)
65 psi at operating temp, 4500 rpm
12 psi at operating temp, idle speed

During very hot days, I used to get the oil lamp to flicker with the old 0.2 bar oil switch. Now, it doesn't flicker even with the higher 0.5 bar switch installed. Peace of mind is what all these got for me.
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Old 04-16-2008, 02:32 AM   #34
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With one shim you have zero compression and enough oil pressure to keep the light off , which is what I had when I bought my bike.

Makes me want to fit a oil pressure gauge now - have you posted somewhere how you did it and what bits you used.?
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Old 04-16-2008, 05:55 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxermoose
Why didn't you just put it on the sidestandand pull the cover?
Is there an echo in here?
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Old 04-16-2008, 05:57 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemerboff

Makes me want to fit a oil pressure gauge now - have you posted somewhere how you did it and what bits you used.?
Ditto.
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Old 04-16-2008, 05:58 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opposedcyljunkie
I have a lipped cannister on my 92 GSPD and to complicate things a bit further, mine measures 4.3mm at 3 o'clock and 4.6mm at 9 o'clock. I use 4 shims with no cover gasket (of course). Based on computations (using the 4.3mm depth), I should get the o-ring squashed to 22.5%.

To provide some data which might prove useful to some, I installed an oil pressure gauge with a 0.5-bar switch for the idiot light for that extra margin of safety (vs the usual 0.2-bar BMW switch). These are the readings I got:

With 1 shim

40 psi with cold engine at idle speed
30 psi at operating temp, 4500 rpm
3 psi at operating temp, idle speed

With 4 shims

Over 80 psi with cold engine at idle speed (only have an 80 psi gauge)
65 psi at operating temp, 4500 rpm
12 psi at operating temp, idle speed

During very hot days, I used to get the oil lamp to flicker with the old 0.2 bar oil switch. Now, it doesn't flicker even with the higher 0.5 bar switch installed. Peace of mind is what all these got for me.
That is some very telling info right there.

And that settles it, I'm going to stick that home made mechanical oil pressure tester I made up for routine checks on the Ducatis onto the R80 and record my results. I like to track oil pressure trends on a motor anyway.

BTW, you can make a tester like this for probably less than $10


I used a standard liquid gauge from a pool supply store and the correct metric-to-NPT adapter from a 5-piece set from Autozone.

I've just been lazy about testing the R80 because the air injection line is in the way for installing the gauge in place of the electrical sensor.
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:01 AM   #38
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what's the actual spec for pressures?
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:37 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
Is there an echo in here?
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:44 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
what's the actual spec for pressures?

I thought, but of course doubt everything that comes out of my mouth but wtf Im here to learn-- that Its quite high while running at 4-5Krevs. Upwards of 80-100psi I think I remember 130 but I was probably runk

While idling its low, not higher than 15 or 20


What say you, Joerg?
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:47 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
I thought, but of course doubt everything that comes out of my mouth but wtf Im here to learn--
he he he. I think I should put that in my sig line to qualify all the bonehead stuff I put in here. Probably drives Joerg and Anton and other organized folk crazy when I ask questions BEFORE i remember that it's already documented.
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:48 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
Not that I know of. Just a big damn flat screwdriver. Its just threads.
It's just so tight that I was worried about slipping and damaging the notch in the tube. I assume there is some sort of thread locking material on there as well. I know tha they advocate that on reassembly. I'll get out my BAS (Big-Assed Screwdriver) and try it.
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:53 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhach
It's just so tight that I was worried about slipping and damaging the notch in the tube. I assume there is some sort of thread locking material on there as well. I know tha they advocate that on reassembly. I'll get out my BAS (Big-Assed Screwdriver) and try it.
Yeah, I hear you. try to fill the notch with screwdriver, you know?
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Old 04-16-2008, 07:23 AM   #44
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it's a big enough slot that you might try just fabbing a tool from some bar stock.
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Old 04-16-2008, 07:48 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opposedcyljunkie

With 1 shim

40 psi with cold engine at idle speed
30 psi at operating temp, 4500 rpm
3 psi at operating temp, idle speed

With 4 shims

Over 80 psi with cold engine at idle speed (only have an 80 psi gauge)
65 psi at operating temp, 4500 rpm
12 psi at operating temp, idle speed
Your reply gives a really good overview on what happens when there is a leakage in the canister!

The oilpressure drops to 50% or worse. The pressure at idle and operating-temp is still a bit lower then mine, maybe you canister is not completely sealed…
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