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Old 09-06-2012, 06:25 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by regomodo View Post
and i'm correct in assuming that I only need the white oring & shim because I don't have a cooler?
Not exaclty- you need to check the depth of the filter canister relative to the outer case. It needs to be the correct deth to compress the o-ring by 30% or something. Youre going to need the white o-ring in any event, but you may not need the metal shim or you might, and you may not need the paper gasket, or you might.

Just have to measure, and here is what its all about: probably posted before:

http://largiader.com/tech/filters/


Alternatively, whatever came out was presumably working, so worst case scenario, just put it back like you found it
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:12 PM   #77
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I had a look earlier: no gasket ( I remember it ripping when taking the cover off), the canister depth is 2.9-3.4mm (mostly 3.4mm), the o-ring is 3.7mm all around. No shim. The canister seemed to be pointy edged,not sure, and caused a good impression in the o-ring.

By those measurements 1 shim & o-ring should be sufficient.

regomodo screwed with this post 09-06-2012 at 03:18 PM
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:17 PM   #78
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This all doesn't apply to the 1985 R80RT does it?
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:50 PM   #79
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This all doesn't apply to the 1985 R80RT does it?
Yes.
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:24 PM   #80
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Yeah Yeah I know this is an old subject. !984 R80 G/S- Decided to look into the -o-ring thing since having to do an oil change. I've been using the gasket, white o-ring and metal shim as that was what was in the bike when I got it. Measured the distance from the case to the inner can and it was 4.1 mm...way to much. Note o-ring wasn't even compressed...duh. Before actually measuring I thought I could get away with just not using the gasket. After reading up I decided to go with THREE metal shims, white o-ring and no gasket. This set up had the o-ring proud of the case. I'm amazed there hasn't been a problem....thank goodness. I've put 20,000 miles on the bike this way and who knows how long before me.
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:05 AM   #81
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Lots of concern about oil leaking past an o-ring but not much about unfiltered oil going through the bypass.

I think more oil goes through the bypass than people realise.
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:09 AM   #82
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Lots of concern about oil leaking past an o-ring but not much about unfiltered oil going through the bypass.

I think more oil goes through the bypass than people realise.
That's dreadful!!
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:58 AM   #83
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Oil filter

The bypass is set at 1.5 bar. I expect oil goes through the bypass every time you start the engine with cold oil.
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:50 PM   #84
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Speaking of oil going other than where intended, I can't remember the answer to this question: Does the oil pressure sender measure pressure upstream or downstream of the filter? Upstream or downstream of crank & rod bearings?

In other words, will a mechanical gauge in place of the sender alert one to low pressure as when oil bypasses the white o-ring and returns straight to the sump? Will it confirm a safe pressure at the crank & rod bearings?
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:59 PM   #85
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Filter, --> pump, --> pressure gauge, --> big end front

It would make the most sense to measure pressure right between the pump and the bearings, to me.
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:49 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
Filter, --> pump, --> pressure gauge, --> big end front

It would make the most sense to measure pressure right between the pump and the bearings, to me.
Oil pick-up from sump, oil pump, pressure switch, oil filter, to the front bearing web where it is distributed to cam bearing, main bearings, big ends and rockers.

The pressure switch will be under X pressure and not activating the warning light, depending on how much is leaking past the oil filter o-ring.

All to my understanding anyways.
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:59 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by 190e View Post
The bypass is set at 1.5 bar. I expect oil goes through the bypass every time you start the engine with cold oil.
Are you referring to the oil pressure relief valve attached to the front bearing web?
The 'bypass' is for the oil filter and is at the rear of the filter canister.
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:12 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ME 109 View Post
Oil pick-up from sump, oil pump, pressure switch, oil filter, to the front bearing web where it is distributed to cam bearing, main bearings, big ends and rockers.

The pressure switch will be under X pressure and not activating the warning light, depending on how much is leaking past the oil filter o-ring.

All to my understanding anyways.
Well I stand corrected. It goes Pickup, pump, filter, front main, rear main, then the pressure switch :whoa unless i totally read it wrong:


Here is a description:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/oilsketch.htm
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:20 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ME 109 View Post
Are you referring to the oil pressure relief valve attached to the front bearing web?
The 'bypass' is for the oil filter and is at the rear of the filter canister.

I was talking about the oil filter bypass.

The oil pressure relief valve is set at a much higher pressure - 5 bar (71 psi).

To complete the picture the oil pressure switch operates at 0.2 to 0.5 bar (3 - 7 psi).
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:28 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 190e View Post
I was talking about the oil filter bypass.

The oil pressure relief valve is set at a much higher pressure - 5 bar (71 psi).

To complete the picture the oil pressure switch operates at 0.2 to 0.5 bar (3 - 7 psi).
That's the first time I've read a value associated with the bypass.
Do you think the spring sets the value, or the restriction created by the 8mm ball in the X diametre bypass chamber?
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