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Old 01-13-2012, 06:57 AM   #3061
August West
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Stevensville, MT
Oddometer: 553
[QUOTE=Johnnyboxer;17739339]If you want to save cash...........................make sure it has a nice and bendy steel gear lever from an earlier F650GS/Dakar

It does.

August West screwed with this post 01-13-2012 at 07:04 AM
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Old 01-14-2012, 01:21 AM   #3062
mcgiggle
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Location: UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boughton View Post
Has anyone else experienced the on/off/res valves on the TT tank to leak. I just got an x challenge and it came with a TT tank, however the valves are leaking. I haven't had time to take them apart, I'm assuming maybe just a few dried out o-rings?
Mine's leaked on and off since new :(

I've been thinking about a pair from these guys http://www.pingelonline.com/fuel_valves.htm but propa expensive so haven't got round to it yet!

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Old 01-14-2012, 10:01 AM   #3063
konfucius
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Location: Boras, Sweden
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Anyone found adjustable clutch and brake levers for the xchallange?
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Old 01-14-2012, 11:56 AM   #3064
jessehere
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Jersey(EXIT 10)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konfucius View Post
Anyone found adjustable clutch and brake levers for the xchallange?
http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/mm5...Category_Code=

But I just use cut down stock levers.
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Old 01-14-2012, 11:56 AM   #3065
cdavisrosco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konfucius View Post
Anyone found adjustable clutch and brake levers for the xchallange?

http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/mot...e/8160658.html

They also sell them individually.

edit - oops, I see two people answered at the same time...
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Old 01-14-2012, 03:11 PM   #3066
imeny
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Location: Israel
Oddometer: 129
Cool2 levers

Anyone found regular clutch and brake levers ? other than OEM ?
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Old 01-14-2012, 03:25 PM   #3067
The Jester
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Location: Cornwall, UK
Oddometer: 770
Quote:
Originally Posted by imeny View Post
Anyone found regular clutch and brake levers ? other than OEM ?
honda cb500 twin brake lever. 5 pattern part.
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:43 PM   #3068
kiwiAdventure
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Location: Auckland New Zealand
Oddometer: 1,385
Brake pads are expensive for the g650x $77 for font pads
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:06 AM   #3069
Mtrain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwiAdventure View Post
Brake pads are expensive for the g650x $77 for font pads
Try the pads for the yamaha xt660 as they are the same.
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Old 01-15-2012, 04:22 AM   #3070
Don't shoot me!!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtrain View Post
Try the pads for the yamaha xt660 as they are the same.
Or Ktm 690...
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:35 AM   #3071
Xtreamdirt
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: South-Africa
Oddometer: 10
temperature light

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtreamdirt View Post
I cant seem to find a answer to my question through the search function.

When I turn the ignition on all my warning lights goes on (for a couple of seconds like it should) except my temperature light, it never goes on, is that correct or is the bulb faulty?

I'm just scared the bulb(I dont know if it is a bulb, maybe LED) is faulty in that way I wll never know when the bike is overheating.
???
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:57 AM   #3072
jjmead1
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Lakewood, CO
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Hello all.

I just sold my Country and replaced it with a Challenge. The Challenge has a bad right peg and was wondering if anyone has personal experience with the Pivot Pegs. I need pegs for sure, but was wondering if the Pivot is the way to go. They seem to be within $40 of the other replacements. Pros? Cons?

Thanks.
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Old 01-15-2012, 02:07 PM   #3073
The Jester
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Location: Cornwall, UK
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Friday 13th

Not normally one for superstition but we had a nightmare on Friday (13th). 2 miles from home I glanced down to see the oil light flash on. Pushing the bike home a neighbour stopped to give me a lift. I hooked the trailer up to the landrover and went to start it - battery flat. After 30 minutes on charge I got it started to find the pipe to the silencer had rusted through. I retrieved the bike and went to work thinking that would be it but my wife came home with her car door handle in her handbag. Arghhhh.

I got to work on the bike today and it is not looking good, although it could have been much worse had I not seen the light come on or taken a chance that it was an electrical issue. Unfortunately I have no oil pressure to the engine. Judging by the fact that the oil tank is also full to the brim, my best guess is the engine oil pump has failed leaving the engine without oil and allowing the scavenger pump to pump all the oil to the tank. Having checked the manual this shouldn't be too major a job as the oil pumps are accessed behind the clutch. It could well be the plastic drive gear has failed as this would seem to be a weak point; if so they will all be replaced. Not having a clutch holding tool, and being up to my eyes in it with other stuff, I am going to hand it to the local dealer this time. I guess my shock is going to have to keep on squeaking for a few more months.
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:40 PM   #3074
G-RDR
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Location: San Angelo, Texas
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Tt tank valves

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boughton View Post
Has anyone else experienced the on/off/res valves on the TT tank to leak. I just got an x challenge and it came with a TT tank, however the valves are leaking. I haven't had time to take them apart, I'm assuming maybe just a few dried out o-rings?
I read posts from others on this site that you should throw those valves away and buy the Pingles, so that's what I almost did. I have brand new, unused valves that came with my new TT tank because I put the Pingles on from the start.

You will need:

2-Adapter Plates, PT# A1602C
1-Power Flo Valve PT# 2210-AH
1-Power Flo Valve PT# 4210-AH

If you order, confirm your own part numbers! I am old, drink lots of beer, have no memory capacity and am not responsible!

Pingles have 5/16" outlets, so I ran 5/16 fuel injection hose.

No reserve on this particular Pingle Valve, just on/off. Suits me fine cause my TT Tank feeds the top of the stock tank through the top vent port. (Guts removed.) The low fuel indicator works as usual.

If you want to use the strainer screens that come with the Pingles, you have to drill out the existing center hole, (about 7/16" diameter from the factory), for each side fuel valve mount to about 9/16". This is what I did with my cordless drill and a stubby step drill bit, then I finished it off with a 9/16" drill bit in my hand. THERE IS ONLY ABOUT AN INCH OF CLEARANCE TO WORK WITH INSIDE THAT HOLE, AND YOU DO NOT WANT TO DRILL THROUGH THE OTHER SIDE OF YOUR TANK! (No I didn't!) New tanks are around $800 for the complete kit. I don't know if they sell just the tank.

Your looking at about $220 dollar US for the Pingle parts plus shipping.

If you or anyone else is interested in my new TT valves that came with the tank, PM me and maybe we can work a deal. They aren't doing me any good.

I will try to attach a picture on the Pingle on my tank.

Here's the Pingle website again:

http://www.pingelonline.com/fuel_valves.htm
Attached Images
 
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:51 PM   #3075
DRONE
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Location: Tacoma, WA-ish
Oddometer: 3,352
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Jester View Post
Not normally one for superstition but we had a nightmare on Friday (13th). 2 miles from home I glanced down to see the oil light flash on. Pushing the bike home a neighbour stopped to give me a lift. I hooked the trailer up to the landrover and went to start it - battery flat. After 30 minutes on charge I got it started to find the pipe to the silencer had rusted through. I retrieved the bike and went to work thinking that would be it but my wife came home with her car door handle in her handbag. Arghhhh.

I got to work on the bike today and it is not looking good, although it could have been much worse had I not seen the light come on or taken a chance that it was an electrical issue. Unfortunately I have no oil pressure to the engine. Judging by the fact that the oil tank is also full to the brim, my best guess is the engine oil pump has failed leaving the engine without oil and allowing the scavenger pump to pump all the oil to the tank. Having checked the manual this shouldn't be too major a job as the oil pumps are accessed behind the clutch. It could well be the plastic drive gear has failed as this would seem to be a weak point; if so they will all be replaced. Not having a clutch holding tool, and being up to my eyes in it with other stuff, I am going to hand it to the local dealer this time. I guess my shock is going to have to keep on squeaking for a few more months.
Ah, Jester, what rotten luck. How many miles on that bike now?
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