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Old 06-09-2012, 07:36 AM   #3616
slide
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Location: NM, USA
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Front Wheel Removal

According to the manual, the front wheel (M20 x 1.25) retaining nut is supposed to be torqued to 80 Nm. I just took my front wheel off to change the tire. Maybe I'm growing weak, but I had to use a 70 cm breaker bar to turn this nut.

I suggest, therefore, that if you feel you'll ever need to remove this nut in the field, that you check to see, in the safety of your own garage, that you can.
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:57 AM   #3617
Geoffster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slide View Post
According to the manual, the front wheel (M20 x 1.25) retaining nut is supposed to be torqued to 80 Nm. I just took my front wheel off to change the tire. Maybe I'm growing weak, but I had to use a 70 cm breaker bar to turn this nut.

I suggest, therefore, that if you feel you'll ever need to remove this nut in the field, that you check to see, in the safety of your own garage, that you can.
Also, check that the pinch bolts are not over-tight. They round easily, which could be tragic in the field.
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:08 AM   #3618
Pine Sol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffster View Post
Also, check that the pinch bolts are not over-tight. They round easily, which could be tragic in the field.
i replaced mine with allen key heads, for that very reason
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:12 AM   #3619
slide
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffster View Post
Also, check that the pinch bolts are not over-tight. They round easily, which could be tragic in the field.
I replaced mine with good hardened steel ones per several posts here. I agree - they are soft for sure.
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:55 AM   #3620
Pine Sol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slide View Post
According to the manual, the front wheel (M20 x 1.25) retaining nut is supposed to be torqued to 80 Nm. I just took my front wheel off to change the tire. Maybe I'm growing weak, but I had to use a 70 cm breaker bar to turn this nut.

I suggest, therefore, that if you feel you'll ever need to remove this nut in the field, that you check to see, in the safety of your own garage, that you can.

previous owner torqued the rear nut, when i got home, i tried to change rear tires, couldnt for the life if me remove it. pentranting oil, heat, nothing would move it. ended up drilling it and chiseling it off. went to a local bolt supply house, bought a new nut, measured the height of the old nut and hack sawed it in the vice, followed by a file... couldnt justify the price or the wait for a new nut. i made it about 1mm longer then the original so when tight, all the threads are covered.
for the rear nut, need to knock the corners slightly so it sits properly in the recess, front doesnt need it.

now i have proper nuts with bigger sides.,
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Old 06-09-2012, 11:43 AM   #3621
BMWPE
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Originally Posted by BMWPE View Post
Tried to order As I was busy with payment this appeared

The following items are not currently available for export and have been removed from the cart:

257-7660-82 - BLUE # WHITE ACERBIS TECNIK FRONT FENDER

Found fender at MX1West.com in the US on there sale out not the right colour but the correct fender
they had two in stock so ordered both, I will have the one sprayed white and the other blue
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Old 06-10-2012, 06:56 AM   #3622
jjmead1
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Ignition problem or ????

Yesterday I jumped on the Challenge to poke around the front range, get lost, and see where roads go. Departing the bike started with no issue, 12 miles later not so much. I stopped to get fuel and had the bar turned to the right. Placed key in ignition, turned to start position, watched diagnostics, then no display. Turned key to off position, returned to start position, watched diagnostics, then nothing again. I can hear something electrical ???? near the battery. I don't know if its that or the fuses area but the sound comes from the general area below my butt and right side of bike.
I tried firing the bike up before the diagnostics ran full course and it would start then stall. Eventually after moving the bars around and messing with the wires from the kill switch, starter, and display the bike started. SO I went on my worried way. I found that the bike would stall out if I held in the clutch....it did start right away though. Perhaps unrelated, the throttle was also a bit sticky.

Now the situation has happened before, I just turned bar to neutral, or forward, and situation would rectify itself. The dealer said it could be any number of things....

SO any thoughts? The weather was beautiful and around 85 degrees F. The altitude was near 7500 feet.
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Old 06-11-2012, 12:46 AM   #3623
LangKat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmead1 View Post
Yesterday I jumped on the Challenge to poke around the front range, get lost, and see where roads go. Departing the bike started with no issue, 12 miles later not so much. I stopped to get fuel and had the bar turned to the right. Placed key in ignition, turned to start position, watched diagnostics, then no display. Turned key to off position, returned to start position, watched diagnostics, then nothing again. I can hear something electrical ???? near the battery. I don't know if its that or the fuses area but the sound comes from the general area below my butt and right side of bike.
I tried firing the bike up before the diagnostics ran full course and it would start then stall. Eventually after moving the bars around and messing with the wires from the kill switch, starter, and display the bike started. SO I went on my worried way. I found that the bike would stall out if I held in the clutch....it did start right away though. Perhaps unrelated, the throttle was also a bit sticky.

Now the situation has happened before, I just turned bar to neutral, or forward, and situation would rectify itself. The dealer said it could be any number of things....

SO any thoughts? The weather was beautiful and around 85 degrees F. The altitude was near 7500 feet.
Mine did the exact same thing once. Never happened again.
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:57 AM   #3624
MizzouRider
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Location: Fly over zone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pine Sol View Post

previous owner torqued the rear nut, when i got home, i tried to change rear tires, couldnt for the life if me remove it. pentranting oil, heat, nothing would move it. ended up drilling it and chiseling it off. went to a local bolt supply house, bought a new nut, measured the height of the old nut and hack sawed it in the vice, followed by a file... couldnt justify the price or the wait for a new nut. i made it about 1mm longer then the original so when tight, all the threads are covered.
for the rear nut, need to knock the corners slightly so it sits properly in the recess, front doesnt need it.

now i have proper nuts with bigger sides.,
I'd be interested in buying a set of these from you, if you ever get some free time, and would want to make a second set.
I've started to round the front one (main axle nut) off. I don't have a socket that big, so I carry a big crescent wrench..

Tanks
Jeff
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:03 AM   #3625
bigdon
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I put axle nuts from a KTM on my x front and rear. It is a good cheap mod. The KTM nuts are much taller and take a 27 mm wrench. Motion pro makes a 27mm combo axle wrench/tire spoon that is very handy. Nobody makes one in 26mm. At least they did not when I was looking.
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:01 AM   #3626
rwamf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmead1 View Post
Yesterday I jumped on the Challenge to poke around the front range, get lost, and see where roads go. Departing the bike started with no issue, 12 miles later not so much. I stopped to get fuel and had the bar turned to the right. Placed key in ignition, turned to start position, watched diagnostics, then no display. Turned key to off position, returned to start position, watched diagnostics, then nothing again. I can hear something electrical ???? near the battery. I don't know if its that or the fuses area but the sound comes from the general area below my butt and right side of bike.
I tried firing the bike up before the diagnostics ran full course and it would start then stall. Eventually after moving the bars around and messing with the wires from the kill switch, starter, and display the bike started. SO I went on my worried way. I found that the bike would stall out if I held in the clutch....it did start right away though. Perhaps unrelated, the throttle was also a bit sticky.

Now the situation has happened before, I just turned bar to neutral, or forward, and situation would rectify itself. The dealer said it could be any number of things....

SO any thoughts? The weather was beautiful and around 85 degrees F. The altitude was near 7500 feet.
Check the wires going into the Key switch, A buddies X did that on one of our rides, bike just quit, one of the wire contacts came loose moving it around it would sometimes make contact, finally had to take the switch apart and jumper it with a simple switch to finish our ride.
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:49 AM   #3627
GSALite
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Could be the wire, but sometimes on the GX bikes the injectors can stick when warm. I noticed when I ride a very short distance, like to get gas, that I get that from time to time. Give it five minutes and it always starts. Otherwise you can run down the battery. If it is the same thing.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:28 AM   #3628
Pine Sol
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Fork Springs....

my xch has had the forks swapped to 45mm shivers.

i need new springs, previous owner (about 185lbs) had had hyperpro springs minus 10mm, and i (about 265lbs) need full length and stronger.. mechanic at the shop says the forks compress about 30% when i sit on it.

any suggestions?

my location is AB CAD


as the forks will be apart, guess its only wise to put new seals, anyone know the part numbers for those new low friction SKF seals are?

thank you
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Old 06-11-2012, 01:22 PM   #3629
Ducksbane
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Location: Northern NSW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pine Sol View Post
my xch has had the forks swapped to 45mm shivers.

i need new springs, previous owner (about 185lbs) had had hyperpro springs minus 10mm, and i (about 265lbs) need full length and stronger.. mechanic at the shop says the forks compress about 30% when i sit on it.

any suggestions?

my location is AB CAD


as the forks will be apart, guess its only wise to put new seals, anyone know the part numbers for those new low friction SKF seals are?

thank you
I have an XC with Husqvarna 610 fork internals and I used the XC fork cartridges in my F800GS with a spacer to cut back the travel. I had to use my standard length hyperpro springs in the 800, but they were a bit short because I have about 15mm more travel. We just put in a spacer for the springs to get enough preload. It all seems to work really well.
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:39 PM   #3630
jjmead1
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Location: Lakewood, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSALite View Post
Could be the wire, but sometimes on the GX bikes the injectors can stick when warm. I noticed when I ride a very short distance, like to get gas, that I get that from time to time. Give it five minutes and it always starts. Otherwise you can run down the battery. If it is the same thing.
So then any advice on cleaning the injectors? I only run premium, occasionally have put jet fuel in, but is this as simple as adding fuel infector cleaner to a load of gas?

TIA.
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